Sousse.
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Overview

Sousse (سوسة Susa) is one of the older cities in Tunisia, possessing an authentic medina, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Understand

Located on the coast, it has good beaches and a clear turquoise sea. It is a popular tourist destination, particularly with Russians, Serbs, Croats, British, Germans and East European people.

You will be surprised to see many empty hotels and hotel clubs (permanently closed) along the beach front north of the centre. However, Medina and beach areas are still lively.

Its climate is classified as hot semi-arid (BSh) but is close to hot-summer Mediterranean (Csa). Rainfall is mainly in colder months.

Get in

By plane The most convenient airport is Monastir which is to the south on the coast, 20 minutes away and frequently used by holiday charter flights.

By train Sousse is on the main line from Tunis in the north down to Sfax and Monastir to the south. Since it sits at the railway network's center, it is well placed to reach most of the rest of the network, even as far south as Gabes on the coast and Tozeur on the edge of the Sahara . The main train station is directly north of the Medina (~5-10min walking). Tunisian railways are mainly for goods traffic with passenger traffic taking something of a back seat so don't expect to find yourself rattling along at 100 mph; 50 to 60 mph is more likely and the standard of the rolling stock (carriages) can be poor. That said rail services are generally reliable and above all are very cheap, even for the top class (Grand Classe Confort). They can be an excellent way to get about the country, just don't expect Pullman style travel. See also Tunisia#Get around for a map showing Tunisian rail network.

Highway A1 connects Sousse with Tunis. A toll applies for using the highway. Additionally, Sousse is crossed by National Road 1 (RN1), connecting the city with the south of the country, and Libya. Roads are in very good condition. Additionally, a car ferry connects Sousse with Trapani in Italy once a week in the summer months.

Buses connect the city with most other parts of Tunisia. The far bus station (Gare Routière) is in some distance to the west of the Medina at the Souk El Ahad ("Camel Market") - the local bus station is next to the Medina in the town center. Prices are slightly lower than those of second class train tickets, but many buses do not have air conditioning.

By louage Louages (shared-taxi) connect Sousse with other cities and towns in Tunisia. The louage station is to the south of the Medina (~30 minutes walking) on Rue El Masjed El Aksa. Louages run frequently to and from Tunis Moncef Bey louage station (11.9 DT, ~1½ hours) from this point. The louage station is well-signed compared to other louage stations and prices are posted by the ticket booths to various cities and towns in Tunisia. Other destinations include Sfax (11.9 DT), Gabes (19.5 DT), Djerba (30.8 DT) and Monastir (2.1 DT).

Car ferries and express boats connect Sousse with Trapani (only in the summer months, once a week for cars and passengers) and Mazara del Vallo via Pantelleria 3 times a week, only for passengers. It takes up to 7-8 hours to Trapani and 5 hours to Mazara del Vallo. Private boats and yachts can use the marina at Port El Kantaoui (a resort about 12 km north of Sousse).

Get around

The taxis do have meters, but the drivers are often reluctant to use them; be firm and insist it is reset to the 0.500 dinar "standing charge" at the start of your journey. Always check that the meter has been reset before setting off and that it is on the correct setting for the time of day. Expect to pay about 5-6 DT if you do. Taxis are yellow, and have a taxi license sticker on the windshield.

- Can not confirm this for April 2019 though.

Shared taxis (louages) are large cars or minibuses/people carriers which start their journey when they are full. Shared taxis can take you further than regular taxis, connecting the city with most bigger towns in Tunisia. Shared taxis for destinations in the same or a closely adjacent city (e.g. Hergla, Chott Mariem) are also yellow with a blue stripe on the middle of the taxi. Shared taxis between cities (far connections) are white with a red stripe. In Sousse, there are also white taxis with red, black, blue and yellow stripes serving destinations in the greater Sousse area (e.g. Akouda, Hammam-Sousse, Port El Kantaoui, Chott Mariem). They leave from the "Station Louage" which is best reached by normal taxi (see above).

Light rail connects central Sousse by the medina to Mahdia via Monastir. It stops along the way in various neighborhoods in southern Sousse and the Monastir airport (Station Aeroport Skanes Monastir).

Tuk-Tuk's and Mini-trains can get you a fun ride to Port El Kantaoui, which is about 12 km away. They are open, shared transports and start their journey when they're full (or almost). Expect to pay 2 DT per journey at the first and 2.5 DT at the latter. Tuk-tuks are bright purple.

See

All of Sousse's main sights are located within the labyrinthine medina in the heart of the city. Walk around and get lost in the western residential areas, which have beautiful surprises. There are signboards with a "cultural walk" marked out that you could follow. Up on the western side, the medina goes unto higher ground and you can see the sea.

Grand Mosque of Sousse. A surprisingly tranquil place despite its location in the middle of the city. Built c. 850 AD, this mosque is simple and austere in the Aghlabite style, no decoration whatsoever aside from a string of angular Arabic and curved arches. Even the prayer room is covered in reed mats instead of the usual carpet. You must be properly dressed to enter, but traditional dress is available for covering up.

Sousse Ribat. Whilst not as impressive or extensive as the Ribat in Monastir this fortified holy site is a worthwhile visit and served as home to a branch of Islamic warriors very similar in nature and creed as the Hospitaller Knights that lived in Rhodes. Climbing to the top of the watch tower affords you fantastic views over the Medina.

Sousse Archaeological Museum. In the gently crumbling old Kasbah on the south-western edge of the Medina. Contains a large collection of mosaics second to the Bardo and other archaeologic artifacts from Roman times.

Musee Dar Essid. Extremely charming little museum located just within the old city walls. Approaching the Ribat from Hotel de Paris along the north wall, follow signs for Musee Dar Essid. It was the home of a long standing Tunisian family that has now become a museum with the passing of the last family member. The property centers on an open courtyard from which access to all the rooms can be gained, including bedrooms for the first and second wife and, in turn, to the children's rooms. All are delightfully fully furnished, with some curtains dating back 200 years, and with German clocks imported from the 1800s. The house is complete with a tower, which was used to watch the stars for the onset of Ramadan, from which views over Sousse can be gained - it is higher than the Ribat. There is also a small cafe area with great views. A must see!

The Sousse Catacombs. An underground Christian necropolis created in the 1st century. It stretches over 5 km and contains more than 10.000 graves.

Do

Play golf. There is no golf course in Sousse, but one in Port El Kantaoui and two in Monastir.

Walking around the fishing boats at the port is a pleasant way to spend time, and families with children may wish to take a trip on one of the 'pirate' ships which offer fishing and other nautical activities.

Buy

Don't expect to have language issues as merchants speak almost anything common (French, English, Spanish, German...) - you can mix all languages if you want.

Medina including the souk located in the center of the city. The old section of the city containing the local bazaar, expect to haggle or bargain. Soula Centre just outside the souk has fixed prices, it is useful to establish values before bargaining in the souk (of course there is no fun).

Everything is pretty cheap, but merchants won't hesitate to quote outrageous prices, so haggling is necessary. Take it all light-heartedly though and have fun whilst haggling. Obviously, there is a large quantity of counterfeit designer goods available in the Medina.

Don't waste your and their time if you don't intend to buy anything and if you are only interested in taking a look, make it clear from the beginning. Say nicely and with a smile that you are not interested or that you don't have any money left.

Eat

You can have a nice meal for around 10 DT or less (depends on the place), but prices are generally low. For this you don't have to negotiate prices.

Budget Restaurant du Peuple. Next to Hotel de Paris. Good couscous, comes with salad starter, and watermelon and tea at the end. COunt about 10 DT per person.

Burgerplace "PLAN B" in the hotel area, near Riadh Palms Hotel and opposite Tej Merhaba Hotel on street Avenue Taïeb Mehiri, Sousse, Tunesien. Lively - cheap sandwiches and burgers, delicious and juicy. 8.5 DN incl. french fries. Many teenage locals here in the afternoons. Modern clean place. (April 2019)

Restaurant Lido; excellent fish restaurant by the port, opposite the 'pirate' ships. 15 DT for a spiced and grilled fish fresh from the port, a reasonable 3 DT for a beer.

Drink

Drinking tap water is generally not harmful - some people and almost all tourists prefer, though, to use the bottled water that you can find everywhere (very cheap, for around 0.200-0.400 DT per 1/2 liter, 0.300-0.650 DT for 1.5 liter). Non-carbonated (non-sparkling) water is the most popular, and is called "mineral water". Carbonated water is available as well, but you must specifically ask for water with gas (eau avec gaz) or Garci (the most popular brand).

Expect to find a Coke for around 0.800 to 1.5 DT (depends if in a supermarket or hotel).

The favorite beverage of the locals is tea, with many tea based specialties being available at the many cafes and restaurants around town. A favorite amongst locals is the au menthe (tea with mint leaves and sugar) and the aux ammandes (tea with crushed almonds and almond essence). Most locals will drink it while smoking from the chicha (the local name for a hookah). Expect to be offered tea while buying things of relatively high value (over 60-70 DT) from shops in the souk.

Being a city in a Muslim country, alcohol may be rather hard to find and quite expensive, because of little demand. Some cafes and stores will sell wine and beer, since many locals also drink these beverages. Expect to pay 2-3 DT for a 0.3 bottle of local beer (invariably Celtia brand), and 2-12 DT for a bottle of local wine in a store (double in a bar). Hard alcohol is very hard to find and extremely expensive (more expensive than even in the Nordic Countries), since most locals avoid it. Your best bets are hotel bars (3-6 DT for 50 ml of vodka or gin) and Magasin General supermarkets (state owned stores, the only ones authorized to sell hard liquor - one is located on 7 November avenue, near the Sousse Palace hotel). A bottle of gin or whiskey is about 80-120 DT. No alcohol is sold on Fridays.

Sousse is one of few places in Tunisia with somewhat animated nightlife (mostly during high season though). There are 2 kinds of places: normal bars, clubs, discos (upscale) and dodgy cabarets (low scale). The last ones are local oriented (music and crowd), and though might represent some interest as a phenomenon, are often frequented by hustlers, which, mixed with a cheap beer, tend to end up in arguments and mass fights (quickly resolved however). Many bars and discos are located in hotels, though most famous ones are standalone venues.

Living/Banana/Saloon disco. Free entrance, 5 DT beer, party time 0:00 - 04:00 everyday. Conveniently located in Sousse hotel zone near Samara hotel and Movenpick, these venues although themed differently (ambiance and music), share the same positioning ("VIP") and owner ("Bora-Bora" open air disco). More chilled touristic crowd; dress smart. Be One/B1 club disco. Free entrance, 5 DT beer, party time 0:00 - 04:00 everyday. Located in Port Kantaoui near Houria Palace hotel and Vincci Resort. A sophisticated venue with nice relaxed and partying more Tunisian crowd, European and Arabic dance music, lots of couches, 2 bars, dancefloor and a high platform for cheeky girls to dance in the middle. In low seasons tends to get crowded by 02:00. Dress smart. Edge bar. 4 DT beer, party time 23:00 - 02:00 everyday. Located in Cesar Palace hotel between Sousse and Port Kantaoui, Avenue 14 Janvier, near Les Oliviers. One of the many hotel bars (with separate entrance), this one though is somewhat classy with nice and relevant (4 stars hotel) more Tunisian crowd, mixed European and Arabic music. A good place for pre-party on your way to B1. Dress normal.

Sleep

Don't compare the category directly to European hotels, expect to take a star (or even two) from these hotels.

Hôtel Gabes. Very spartan rooms but good location and trustworthy staff. A lot of negative reviews.

Hotel de Paris. Spotlessly clean if rather austere hotel near the main entrance to the medina.

Abou Nawas Boujaafar Hotel. Great food and services. Thalasso center with an interior (30 °C, salt water) pool, another outside and private beach. 3 restaurants. Deco from the 1980s but not expensive. 5 minutes away from the medina and near all transportations.