Varanasi.
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Overview

Varanasi (वाराणसी Vārāṇasī), also known as Banaras (बनारस Banāras) or Kashi (काशी Kāshī), is a holy city at the banks of the Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh, India. Being the most sacred city in Hinduism and Jainism, and important in the history of Buddhism, Varanasi is India's most important pilgrimage destination. It was home to 1.2 million people as of 2011.

Understand

Varanasi (vah-RAH-nuh-see) or Banaras (buh-NAH-ruhss) is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with settlements dating back to the 11th century BCE. Many Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi brings salvation (variously termed as moksha, mukti or nirvāṇa) and so they make the trip to the city when they realise that they are close to death. For some, the culture shock of the burning corpses in plain view can be a bit overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganges at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries-old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.

History Varanasi’s history spans several thousand years, making it one of the world’s longest‑inhabited cities. Early references in Vedic literature describe it as a centre of learning and ritual, already known for its connection to the Ganges. By the first millennium BCE, the city had begun to develop its identity as a spiritual and intellectual hub, attracting scholars, priests and traders.

From around the 6th century BCE, Varanasi’s region became significant in the life of the Buddha, with nearby Sarnath marking the site of his first sermon. Under the Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century BCE, the city grew as a centre of trade and scholarship, and during the Gupta period (4th–6th centuries CE) it flourished as a major seat of Sanskrit learning, philosophy and classical arts.

Medieval centuries brought both decline and revival. Islamic invasions damaged temples and institutions, but local rulers and merchant guilds repeatedly rebuilt the city’s religious and cultural foundations. By the 16th century, Varanasi had regained prominence, and the following centuries saw the expansion of ghats, temples and neighbourhoods under regional rulers and later the British, who recognised its importance as a pilgrimage centre.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, weaving, trade and scholarship shaped the city’s economy, while its riverfront became the iconic landscape seen today. After independence, Varanasi continued to grow while preserving its ancient character.

Religion and spirituality The entire riverfront is a living expression of Hindu belief: pilgrims bathe at dawn on the ghats, families perform rites for ancestors, and priests conduct ceremonies that have been repeated for centuries. The city is especially associated with Shiva, who is believed to reside eternally here, and many visitors come specifically to honour him at places like Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The narrow lanes are lined with shrines dedicated to countless deities, from household gods to major temples, creating a sense that devotion is woven into everyday life. Rituals unfold continuously: morning prayers, midday offerings, and the famous evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, where fire, music and chanting merge into one of the city’s most iconic experiences. Festivals intensify this atmosphere, with processions, lamps, music and crowds transforming the city into a moving celebration of Hindu culture.

Varanasi is also a centre of learning, with long traditions of Sanskrit scholarship, philosophy and classical arts that reinforce its role as a spiritual capital. In Varanasi, Hinduism is not confined to temples; it is present in the river, the streets, the sounds and the daily routines that define the city.

Jainism also has deep roots in the area, with several tirthankaras believed to have been born in or near Varanasi.

Get in

Varanasi is well connected by plane, train, and bus. Varanasi is mostly on the west bank of the Ganges. The on the north and on the south connect the city to the eastern parts of India.

There are multiple daily services to cities including New Delhi (13 hours), Agra (13 hours), Lucknow (7 hours), Mumbai (25-27 hours), Kolkata (12-14 hours) and Siliguri (14-16 hours).

Varanasi is served by three major railway stations:

Arriving from Nepal Buses are available from major cities in Nepal to the border city of Sunauli. After 100 m of walking through no-man's land, you will find the Indian immigration office hidden away on the left-hand side of the road. After going through Indian immigration, walk 300 m and find the bus stop on the right-hand side. From there, take the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfortable and stop everywhere. Budhha Air has also some packages for devotees visiting Varanasi.

Get around

Many streets are too narrow to be reached by cycle-rickshaw, auto-rickshaw, and car and therefore, you may have to walk a bit to reach your destination.

Walking is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any bookstore and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list and description of all the ghats.

By rickshaw The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle on foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw, E-rickshaw or auto-rickshaw.

There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at .

By car or taxi While taxis and cars-for-hire do exist, you can hire them for airport/railway/bus station transfers and for major city tour specially for BHU,Sarnath and Ramnager tour. You can travel from other cities to Varanasi by car as it's well connected to the major cities of the country.

Big Cab Varanasi. Big Cab Varanasi is also present in Varanasi.

By bicycle Bicycle rental is available from many vendors. Inquire at your hotel.

See

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations; the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.

Jantar Mantar. Jantar Mantar literally means a combination of instruments and formulas (jantar = instrument and mantar = formula). It is an observatory consisting of a series of masonry architecture of unique form, each with a specialized function for astronomical measurement. Jai Singh, king of Amber, built 5 such observatories across northern and western India. Apart from Varanasi the other 4 places are Jaipur, Delhi, Ujjain and Mathura (one in Mathura no longer exist). The Varanasi Jantar Mantar is much smaller compared to the ones in Delhi and Jaipur. The observatory houses 6 instruments of 5 types (it has 2 Samrat Yantra or sun dial). Apart from the observatory, the Man Mahal houses a Virtual Experiential Museum showing a series of light and sound shows. The shows include one on the mythology of the Ganges and its course. There are models depicting life in Varanasi and including a model of a pan shop. There is an interactive musical gallery.

Rajghat. This archaeological site was the result of a chance discovery in the 1940s when the Kashi Railway Station was extended. After a couple of excavations, a structure was unearthed dating back to the 2nd century BCE. The archaeological evidence suggested that the place was continuously inhabited since the 8th century BCE. Today it consists of several scattered brick structures rising only to a height of .

Rani Laxmibai Janmasthali. Birthplace of Rani Laxmibai. It has been converted into a small gallery. A statue of Laxmibai riding a galloping horse welcomes visitors to the gallery. The walls behind and on the two sides of the statue are converted into a gallery complete with images and writeups. They depicts the life of Rani Laxmibai. Most of the writings are in Hindi.

The Ganges is the most sacred river in the world for Hindus, and you will see traditional rituals and bathing occurring at all times of the day. On the Eastern banks, the Ganges is flanked by a 300-m-wide sand belt, beyond which lies a green belt, a protected area reserved for turtle breeding. The western crescent-shaped bank of the River Ganga is flanked by a continuous stretch of 84 ghats, or series of steps leading down to the river, stretching for 6.8 km. These ghats were built by Hindu kings who wanted to die along the Ganges, and they built lofty palaces along the river, most of which are now hotels, to spend their final days. You can walk along the river and see all of the ghats, but the best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where over 200 corpses per day are cremated in full view before their ashes are eased into the Ganges.

Some of the most popular ghats, from north to south:

Panchganga Ghat. the meeting of the five rivers.

Manikarnika Ghat. The main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and avoid taking photographs (scams are plentiful here; see the "Stay Safe" section). There's a temple on the ghat called Ratneshwar Temple, which is leaning by 9°, more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Its sanctum is generally underwater most of the year, except during the summer.

Dashashwamedh Ghat. Known as the 'main' ghat, this is the site of the large evening aarti ceremony. The ceremony starts right after the sunset and lasts for around 45 minutes.

Rana Ghat. The ghat is on the banks of the Ganges which helps people to do religious ceremonies without any difficulty.

Kedar Ghat. Brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic.

Narad Ghat. The ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because of the myth of contention.

Harishchandra Ghat. The cremation place where Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.

Hanuman Ghat. It used to be known as Ramesvaram Ghat and is at a holy spot known as Juna Akhara in Varanasi. People believe that the Ghat was constructed by Lord Rama and hence it is dedicated to his favourite disciple, Lord Hanuman.

Shivala Ghat. The ghat was constructed by King Balwant Singh and played an important role during the Middle Ages. It comes under the western part of Varanasi and as the name suggests disciples connected the ghat with Lord Shiva.

Tulsi Ghat. Site of the large water purification plant.

Assi Ghat. A popular place for tourists, long-term students and researchers to stay, with many hotels, restaurants, and internet cafes nearby. The morning aarti, known as Subah e Banars, is held at the Assi Ghat.

Lal Khan Tomb. Lal Khan was the minister and commander of Balwant Singh (reign: 1740 – 70) the King of Varanasi (then Banaras). His last wish was to be buried in such a place so that he could keep an eye on the gateway of the royal palace. The king kept his last wish by building him a magnificent tomb on the northern edge of Varanasi. The tomb stands at the centre of a Mughal garden, marked with four chhatris on four corners out of which three stand to this day. The tomb stands on an elevated square plinth, which also houses several graves. so that he could keep an eye on the gateway of the royal palace. The tomb is crowned with a single dome flanked with chhatris on four corners. Each side has three arches with the central arches slightly higher than the side ones. The highlight of the tomb is the decorative multi-coloured tile work. Sadly, the colours have faded, robbing the tomb of its elegant look.

Alamagir Mosque. Overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.

Gyanvapi Mosque. A rather controversial mosque built during the rule of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. It is believed among the Hindus that the Gyanvapi Mosque is the original site of Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Photography is prohibited.

Many temples in Varanasi are off-limits for non-Hindus.

Bharat Mata Temple. The Bharat Mata temple at Varanasi is the only temple dedicated to Mother India. It is located in the Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth campus. The Bharat Mata temple was built by Babu Shiv Prasad Gupt and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. The statute of Bharat Mata is built in marble and is a model of undivided India, depicting the mountains, plains and oceans. The most peculiar thing about the Bharat Mata Temple is that instead of the customary gods and goddesses, it houses a relief map of India, carved out of marble.

Durga Mandir. Built in the 18th century, the Durga temple was made as a tribute to Goddess Durga. It is also one of the well-known temples in Varanasi.

Gauri Matha Temple. The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. It is a tradition to visit her just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to God saying that the virtues of donating the shells go to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the Ganges. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.

Kaal Bhairav Temple. It is the temple for Kaal Bhairav - a dreadful form of Lord Shiva symbolising death.

Nepali Hindu Temple. This small, golden temple was built by the 19th-century exiled king of Nepal, Rana Bahadur Shah. It is shaped in the typical Nepali pagoda architectural style.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The most famous temple in the city, dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Shaivism. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was reconstructed by Hindu kings who followed them. There are four gates to enter the temple. The main gate, called "Ganga Dwar", is accessible from the Manikarnika Ghat. There is a wide corridor leading to the main temple. Security is tight making entrance to the main temple difficult and sometimes completely off-limits to foreigners. Bags, mobile phones or pens are not allowed inside the main temple, although they are allowed within the corridor. You have to deposit them at the "mobile lockers" within the corridor area. If you enter the temple from other three gates, you have to deposit the prohibited items at the nearby shops.

Tulsi Manas Temple. Located near the very popular Durga temple, this marvellous temple is dedicated to lord Rama. Tulsi Manas temple was established during 1964 in the form of white marble structure.

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple. Sankat Mochan Temple is dedicated to the Lord Hanuman. This temple is also called as the Monkey temple because of the presence of lot of monkeys inside the premises. It is one of the holy temples of the Lord Hanuman and the main location for Hindus for their many religious as well as cultural festivals. It is located in the southern part of Varanasi, on the way to the Durga Mandir and New Vishwanath temple BHU. The meaning of the Sankat Mochan is relief from all the problems (Sankat means problem and Mochan means relief giver). Sankat Mochan Temple was constructed by the educationist and freedom fighter Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya (the founder of the BHU) in the early 1900s. The Hanuman Jayanti (birthday of the Lord Hanuman) is celebrated every year by organising a special Shobha Yatra (a parade) from Durga temple (Durga Kund) to the Sankat Mochan Temple.

Do

Bathe in the Ganges - Over 60,000 people come to the ghats every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, most notably at sunrise. This is a fantastic sight to see. However, with sunken corpses and cremation, there is a risk of infection from numerous diseases such as hepatitis and bacteria such as e-coli. Therefore it is recommended you bathe further upstream such as around Rishikesh. If you choose to bathe, there are some barricades for men and women and established by the Government. Walking tours are operated by many companies, walking tours are a great way to see some of the harder-to-find sights such as the Flower Market and Ayurvedic Herb Market Boat rides - Very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. Boats can either be rowboats or motorboats. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or one of the many ghats along the river and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations, then down to Dasaswamedh just after sunset to watch the evening aarti ceremony from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. It is recommended to avoid polluting the river further by 'offering' non-biodegradable objects to the river. Explore the alleyways - The network of historical lanes and alleys behind Dasaswamedh, Man Mandir, Tripura Bhairavi, and Meer Ghat are not to be missed. In the main alley behind Dasaswamedh Ghat (entrance to the left at the top of the stairs), there are hole in the wall chai and lassi shops, silk merchants, western-style cafes, a small perfumery, a traditional instrument store, and a number of handicraft stalls. Sadly, though, other than the notable exceptions of Gangtok and Shimla, Indian cities refuse to ban bikes, regardless of how narrow an alley may be, and Varanasi is no exception. So the opportunity to savour the unique atmosphere of an ancient Indian city is somewhat destroyed by having to avoid bikes and listen to the sound of constant honking of horns. Still, despite this drawback, the lanes are a must for any traveller visiting Varanasi.

Festivals Chhath Pooja (November) - The four day festival for the sun god, Dala aka Surya. Rituals include holy bathing, fasting and abstaining from drinking water (Vratta), standing in water for long periods of time, and offering prashad (prayer offerings) and aragh (water) to the setting and rising sun. Deepavali, or Diwali (October–November) - The five day festival of lights. The special decorations, ceremonies at the temples, and aarti ceremony at the ghats are spectacular. After Diwali there is a day known as Dev Deepavali. On this day all the ghats have oil lamps lit on the ghat steps which is a very pleasant sight to watch. Use the boat ride if you are not with any local. Avoid walking through the ghat on that day. Maha Shivaratri (February) - A Hindu festival celebrating Lord Shiva, who lived in Varanasi according to Hindu mythology. On this day, the streets of Varanasi are filled with pilgrims and parades dedicated to Shiva occur all day. Entrance to temples will require long queue and the temples will be extremely crowded. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours.

Learn

Yoga classes Yoga classes are very popular among visitors to Varanasi.

Siddharth Yoga Centre. Small-group yoga classes with a view of the Ganges. Taught by Siddharth.

Yoga Training Centre. Run by Sunil Jhingan Kumar. Highly recommended.

Ayurveda treatment classes Ayurveda treatment is common in Varanasi and you can take classes to learn the techniques:

Punarnava Health. Classes and treatments in Ayurvedic food habits, daily routine, massage, Shirodhara, steam bath, leech therapy, and Panchkarma.

Hindi Language Center. Classes in Hindi.

Pragati Hindi. Fun Hindi language lessons. Raju's teaching style makes Hindi very simple to understand.

Buy

Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and haggle! Markets

Gowdalia Chowk. One of the most busy shopping areas in Varanasi. Products that are available here include silk and zari sarees, salwar suits, garments, bags and handicrafts.

Harmony Books. A bookshop with a real bookshop feel. The owner is very knowledgeable about his stock.

Kashi Annapoorna Book House. A small bookshop with books on subjects related to India, Hinduism, and Buddhism.

Dirty Laundry. A traveller's secondhand shop, Dirty Laundry sells used clothing, electronics, books and other travel essentials. They will take your old goods on exchange.

Loan Arts & Crafts. Silk carpets, hand-made, hand-knotted oriental Persian carpets, silk products, silk pashminas, hand-embroidered and hand-stitched cashmere wool, papier mache and lots of handicrafts.

Pratha. A small shop by the corner, showcasing Hand Block printed cotton kurties, suits and accessories. This store does not offer commissions to guides.

Sri Guru Perfumers. Very nice selection of perfumes and natural oils, some of them made by the family of the owner Shankar Roy. Homemade incense is great.

The Bed Silk and Pasmina. A small shop with a good selection of hand and machine-woven silk items and pashmina shawls.

Wow India. A large collection of handicrafts from all over the country, a good herbal teas, incense and plenty more. Prices are moderate and fixed.

Eat

Banarasi Khana, or local delicacies, are known for their flavours. Many dishes here are flavoured with asafoetida, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and/or dried fenugreek leaves.

Benares Dum Aloo is different from the dum aloo cooked elsewhere in India because the potatoes are stuffed with and cooked in gravy that includes jaggery, fennel, and chilli paste.

Varanasi is also known for its street food and chaat vendors. Aloo chaat is very common.

Varanasi Paan is famous all over India. Paan is an assortment of flavours wrapped in a betel leaf. There are two versions: One that includes tobacco, and one that includes only sweet flavours. To eat the sweet version, shove the entire leaf in your mouth at once and chew until you swallow!

Lassi from Pahalwan Lassi at Ravidas Gate in Lanka. Age-old shop for delicacies like Lassi, Malaiyyo and Rabri.

Rabri Malai Balai is a popular dessert in Varanasi that includes milk, sugar, almonds, and pistachio nuts. You can find it served in hole-in-the-wall or sweet shops.

There are plenty of food outlets with a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success.

Local delicacies Deena Nath Chaat Bhandar: (near PDR Mall) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat. Lotus lounge: (at mansoravor ghat) through the alleys, great food a must for every visitors. Madhur Jalpan: The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir. Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for. Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.

Budget A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north and south Indian dishes. Cozy Corner Restaurant (CCR) Homely, healthy and hygienic is the motto of CCR. They specialise in Indian, South Indian and Chinese and serve fantastic dosas and chole bhature. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and the service is superb. Located just down the street from Assi Ghat. Turn left on Dumrao Bagh (first street when walking from the ghat) and walk about 50 m, just past Open Hand. Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes. A very nice place to eat ,right in the middle of the city, very close to river Ganges and Golden temple.The food is very nice but it takes a little time but with that beautiful view you would like to spend more time sitting there even without food.

Ganga View. One of the myriad guest house rooftop restaurants in Varanasi and not a particularly memorable one at that. Serves Indian continental and western food (non-veg not available). Like most places in the area the rooftop is enclosed in a cage to keep the monkeys out (or is that humans in?) which detracts from the view.

Karki's Restaurant If you're in Assi Ghat this place is a great oasis with a rooftop restaurant that serves cheap but great quality Nepalese & Italian food among others. Highly recommended are the Nepalese Thali and Fresh Basil Pesto Pasta (only Saturday & Sunday). It's on the main road down to Assi Ghat on the left, look for the green roof as it's upstairs and has a small entrance. Say hi to Karki and his gorgeous daughter who loves to poke faces at guests. Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe).

Nice cafe. Great food cooked only by mum and family. Home kitchen. Clean. Friendly and helpful owner. Check out the garlic / cheese nan and the pancakes!

Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches etc. Healthy food. Favourite among long stay residents.

Spicy Bites. One of a number of restaurants along Bangali Tola, this place is great for breakfast as they have a full on espresso machine and serve good food. Free WiFi.

Suryoday, (in the alley behind the ghats, a few minutes walk South of Kedar ghat) small but delicious menu in a clean little spot by Kedar Ghat.

Yogik's Cafe. Warm and inviting interior. Smoothies and fresh juices. Set breakfast, salads, bread rolls, fruit salad. Thali and Indian dishes. Instant coffee only. Severely understaffed - very slow service. Free WIFI.

Brown Bread Bakery. A good bakery run by a German baker in Varanasi. Be wary of the Indian run bakery on the opposite side of the road who claims to be charitable but is just fake. Breads and pastries made from organically grown ingredients. Also a nice range of cheeses. The restaurant has a large menu including Continental, Italian, German and Indian classics, has a great rooftop and offers a breakfast buffet from 7AM to noon. Quality is pretty good and a part of the proceeds supports the Learn For Life society which operates a free school for disadvantaged children in Aurangabad, Varanasi.

Dolphin Restaurant. The food and service are good, not great, but the real reason to come here is for the rooftop overlooking the Ghats and the river. Also has free and fast WiFi.

Filocafe. A space to study, read, network, converse, experiment, think. Equipped with free Wi-Fi and electric outlets available to all, Filocafé offers a variety of over 45 types of teas, Italian espresso coffee (yes, coming out from those Italian machines) and its creative varieties, fresh juices and a few munchies.

Flavours Cafe, Lanka, (above axis bank). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lightly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance make for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.

Madhur Milan Cafe. A nice place for Indian snacks and meals at cheap prices. Cafe is primarily famous for its fried hot samosas, dosa and kachori sabji.

Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. Closed on Sundays. Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91 542–2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Also provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city. Also serves authentic Chinese and continental. Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.

Haifa Cafe: Assi Ghat, (in Hotel Haifa). Most popular for its Middle-Eastern cuisine such as the thali (delicious!), but has a wide range of Indian and continental dishes and is also popular at breakfast. The Jordanian brothers aren't here anymore. Now it is just a regular hotel. The food is awful too with the Jordanians gone. Hayat mediterreian': near Assi (new location= behind dumraon bag colony park), managed by middle-easterners from Jordan. Try the labanha (dry yoghurt), or the baba ghanSoush (aubergine / eggplant) with pita. The feta is a tad high in salt. The restaurant has a tent-like lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles. Very good quality, pleasant open air magnetosphere. Phulwari / Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close. This temple has been usurped by thugs who sponsor this restaurant. Perhaps avoid on ethical grounds. No other heritage Indian temple has a restaurant in its courtyard.

Varuna. And Chowk, Taj Ganges Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds. - Two restaurants respectively offering Indian and Western cuisine. The Taj is excellent as usual.

Drink

Coffee Coffee is not as common in Varanasi as it is in the bigger and more cosmopolitan cities, and is often just available as the instant variety, served black or white. Even in those cafes that serve real coffee, it is still hit or miss whether it is of standard taste. All the cafes listed here at least sell the real stuff.

Aum Cafe. A crystals-yoga-type cafe. OK coffee. Healthy and tasty meals. Wide range of herbal tea and fresh juice options. Bright interior. Small gift shop. Early opening makes it convenient for breakfasts, though options are limited.

Brown Bread Bakery. Simple cafe. Excellent pastries, bread, and Indian dishes. Coffee. Good selection of organic cheeses. Multi-grain bread sold by the loaf.

El Cafe 80. Ok Coffee. Good pizza, pasta, and Indian dishes. Western and Indian breakfasts. Cosy atmosphere. Floor-cushion seating, Table seats. Free Wi-Fi.

Imok. Small corner cafe. Large painting of HH Dalai Lama and Lord Shiva on the wall. Probably the best coffee in the lanes. People-watching balcony.

Mona Lisa Cafe. Bright and cool interior. Rooftop seating. Friendly service. Mediocre coffee and pastries.

The Mark Cafe. Coffee, pizza, pasta. Backstreet atmosphere. Experienced barista - touted as the best coffee in the area. Food is ok. Reasonable prices. Free Wi-Fi. One of the only cafes in the area to open early and serve breakfast.

Tea While chai shops are found throughout the city, a few are worthy of special note:

Engineer Chai Wala. Run by a guy with an engineer's degree in solar energy who has a passion for chai. More than ten varieties of tea sold in clay cups. Fast service. Thick and delicious chai. A variety of lassi - plain and flavoured.

Alcohol Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but they don't offer any sitting arrangement. You can buy whatever you want and bring it to your hotel room.

Radisson Hotel Varanasi. Alcoholic drinks are available in the bar.

Other drinks Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major centre of Shiva worship as it is offered to the lord in form of Prashad. Caution should be taken as it can be quite intoxicating and the effects last hours; tourists have been known to be robbed after consuming bhang.

Thandai is a cool, milk-based drink made with pistachios, almonds and saffron, topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without it. Many Thandai stores are located near the main Godowlia, and most also serve lassi.

Sleep

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats, which are the main attractions for foreigners and are close to the religious attractions. However, this area is extremely noisy and many accommodation choices here are subpar, so do some research before you book. An alternative to staying in Varanasi is to stay near the main railway station (Varanasi Junction). This area has some very nice places and is about 10 minutes away on a tuk-tuk.

Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. Those who do not want to pay can get out of the boat and walk back.

Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that your fan or air-con is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.

Budget Cheaper hotels and hostels can be found around the "Assi ghat" and train station areas, check hot water and wifi for yourself.

Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel. The Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel a small hostel. It is very simple and work is underway to make it more homely. For example by painting the walls with graffiti. If you want to help out with any small thing, you are welcome to stay for free. You will stay with people from couchsurfing, workaway and other places, and the owner often arranges small free trips (just share the expenses for petrol) around and outside of the city. Great rooftop terrace in a noise-free area of Varanasi.

International Travellers' Hostel. A hostel run out of an ancestral family house. The owner lives in Germany and his staff manage the hostel. There are mixed and female dormitories available with 4-5 beds each. There is a cottage-style superior room with en-suite bathroom for the ones with a slightly higher budget, and a tent for the ones on extremely tight budget. Breakfast inclusive prices can be booked online. The rooms are cosy and silent with comfortable beds. The hostel also features a bistro that serves delicious vegetarian and vegan meals. Their menu also includes authentic Italian coffee. There are several pleasant common areas, including a garden and a first-floor terrace. It's a great place to be away from the chaos of Varanasi. Very good to socialise, and for celebrating Indian festivals, especially Holi. Amenities include fast Wi-Fi, TV, Bluetooth speakers, DVDs, books, card & board games, PC, lockers, washing machine, hair dryers, communal kitchen and purified drinking water. Free vegan toiletries' kit is provided with private rooms and vegan soap bar with other rooms. They also have dual power back-up (battery inverter and power generator), which can be very helpful during power outages in the scorching summers.

Ram Bhawan / Kautilya Society Residence. This is the study centre of an NGO that supports responsible development through dialogue that also offers rooms for students and scholars. The residence is similar to an Indian home with simple comforts and colonial teak furniture. Long term guests can get discounts.

Stops Art Hostel. Bright, airy, super modern hostel. Location in an alleyway makes it quieter. In a large, 3-floor house. It has air-con, 24 hour security and a very happy relaxed vibe, especially out on the shaded balconies on the upper floor, complete with benches and sofas, great for meeting others. Highly recommended.

Zostel Varanasi. A friendly hostel 20 minutes walk to the main ghat. Very noisy location, but a great place to meet people.

Bhadrakali Guest House. The guesthouse is a colourful, family-owned, music-oriented house with panoramic views of the city and of the River Ganga. A couple of the rooms in this cozy 7-room guesthouse also have balconies and river views. Highly recommended.

Ganga Fuji Home. Some rooms have shared bathroom; more expensive rooms have air-con and TV. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night.

Golden Lodge. Tucked away in the alleyways, friendly staff. Restaurant on site.

Kedar Guest House. Highly recommended. Amazing views. The owner is very knowledgeable and will give you maps and explain Varanasi.

Maa Vaishno Guest House. One of the cheapest decent guesthouses in the area. Family run guesthouse. 10 clean rooms, all with attached bathroom with running hot and cold shower and view of the Ganga. Roof top restaurant, sunrise & sun set from roof & room, Free Wi-Fi, laundry service.

Marigold P. Guest House. Rooftop view of the Ganges. Highly recommended.

Mishra Guest House. The rooftop restaurant offers free evening concerts every night.

Monu Family Paying Guest House. Music, cookery and language courses are available.

Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel. Opened in 1998. Restaurant with large menu. No dormitories, despite being called a hostel.

Sahi Riverview Guest House. Very clean and quiet. Great river views. Free Wi-Fi. Recommended.

Shiva Kashi Guest House. Very clean, well-decorated, quiet guest house. Pleasant and helpful staff. Rooms have windows, are light and airy. Some have balconies. Highly recommended.

Sita Guest House. Rooms are reasonably clean, somewhat small and most have a view over the river. Supposedly hot water in every room, the hotel also has a generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi but this often doesn't cover the air-con. Rooftop restaurant.

Tiwari Guest Lodge. Run by a Brahmin and has a small temple on the site. Very relaxed and well maintained by local standards but do not expect staff to be present all the time. For check-in, the owner can usually be found sitting in the aryuvedic massage cubicle late afternoons. Bring your sheets and towel. Door is locked from midnight to 06:00.

Vishnu Rest House. A hotel spanned over a 200-year-old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water.

Gautam Hotel. A budget 3-star hotel. Not walkable to the ghats.

A Palace on the River, Rashmi Guest House. Great views and location.

Brijrama Palace. A luxury boutique hotel. One of the oldest buildings on the ghats. Views over the Ganga. Beautiful heritage-style rooms. Restaurants specializing in Indian cuisine

Taj Ganges. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. 130 rooms set on 40 acres of gardens. The building is in the shape of a Hindu swastika. Pets are not allowed.

Taj Nadesar Palace. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. The building of the hotel used to be the residence of Mr Davis, the Magistrate of Benares, in January 1799. The same palace was later occupied by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh during his rule between 1889–1931.

Respect

Cremation ghats There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists tresspasing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river. You can take photographs if it is from a distance; most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local touts object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept, withdraw it and photograph. Call the police if necessary.

Temples Since this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes or sandals at every point, so wear flip-flops which are easy to take off.