Mumbai.
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Overview

Mumbai (Marathi and Hindi: मुंबई Mumbaī), formerly known as Bombay, is the largest city in western India and the capital of the state of Maharashtra. A cosmopolitan metropolis, Mumbai was built on seven islands on the Konkan coastline which over time were joined to form the island city of Bombay. The island was in turn joined with the neighbouring island of Salsette to form "Greater Bombay". The city has a metropolitan population of over 20 million (2025).

Often called the "New York of India", Mumbai is undoubtedly the country's commercial capital and one of the predominant port cities. Mumbai's nature as the most eclectic and cosmopolitan Indian city is symbolised in the presence of Bollywood within the city, the centre of the globally-influential Hindi film and TV industries. It is also home to India's largest slum population, as well as the iconic Gateway of India built on the waterfront of Mumbai Harbour during the British Raj.

The name Bombay comes from Bom Bahia ("the good bay" in Portuguese), a name given by explorer Francis Almeida. Mumbai is named after the goddess Mumbadevi of the Koli fishing community.

Districts

Mumbai is a city built in successive waves of migrations. The neighbourhoods acquired their character from the communities that settled there first. These neighbourhoods are too numerous to list and there is no commonly accepted way to group these neighbourhoods into larger districts. But roughly, from the south to the north, this is how the city developed.

Old Mumbai is the peninsular portion of city, representing the "city" within the Greater Mumbai area, as opposed to the "suburbs" further north.

Suburbs The suburbs covered in this article fall within the municipal limits of Greater Mumbai since the 1940s. Suburbs further north and east are covered in the North Konkan region.

Understand

Mumbai (MOOM-bigh) is a bustling, diverse metropolis with a flair of its own. The entrepreneurial spirit and pulsing pace of life provide a sharp contrast to much of the rest of India.

Name There has been much debate regarding the original name of the city. Some say the current name of the city Mumbai is the original name; and is an eponym derived from Mumbā (मुंबा), a local Hindu goddess, and āī (आई), meaning "mother" in Marathi. Others claim Bombay was an anglicised version of Bom Bahia, a name given by the Portuguese to mean "Beautiful Bay" and later made popular by the British as the name of the Bombay state.

The name was officially changed from Bombay to Mumbai in 1995. Although both names are common, people who explicitly use "Bombay" are generally non-Marathi speakers, whereas "Mumbai" proponents primarily speak Marathi. In the West, "Mumbai" has become more commonly accepted in order to avoid controversy. The city is also fondly called āmchī Mumbaī (आमची मुंबई), meaning "our Mumbai".

History Though the seven islands that now make up the city have a long recorded history like any other place in India, their journey to form the city of Mumbai really started in 1498, when the Portuguese took them over from the Sultan of Gujarat. They built a settlement, forts, and churches (including the strange-looking Portuguese Church that stands to this day). However, they could not make much of their possession and the seven islands were handed over to England in 1661 as part of the dowry of Catherine de Braganza when she married Charles II of England. The East India Company built the docks, the trading posts, and the fort that would form the nerve centre of the city. They also started off the long process of reclaiming land and joining the islands, an activity which went on until the 1960s.

The port attracted industries, and the entrepreneurial communities like the Parsis, Gujaratis and Marwaris (from Rajasthan) migrated and set up trading companies and factories in the late 19th century. Industries attracted migrant labour from different parts of the country. The successive waves of migration shaped the character of the city and its neighbourhoods.

The city that owes its existence to the efforts of the British was also the birthplace of the Indian National Congress, which played an overwhelmingly important role in the independence movement. The city whose mills were built by industrialists from across the country is the capital of Maharashtra state, which was carved on linguistic lines for Marathi speakers. There was pushback from the Gujaratis, who eventually settled for Maharashtra to take Mumbai as its capital.

The high population put a strain on the infrastructure. The rail and road network underwent a steady improvement over the 1990s, but because of the magnitude of the task, the roads seemed to be perennially under construction. Mumbai has now reinvented itself as a hub for the service industry.

In January 1993, in the wake of the destruction of the Babri Mosque in Ayodhya, a wave of riots swept the city, with over 1,000 people killed, the vast majority of whom were Muslims. Relations between the city's various ethnic groups have been tense ever since, with several terrorist outrages (see #Stay safe) adding fuel to the fire.

People Mumbai is the most cosmopolitan city in India. In comparison with the rest of the country, the city is quite liberal. With a regular influx of immigrants from the rest of India, the citizens, popularly known as "Mumbaikars" (मुंबईकर Mumbaīkar), have shown remarkable tolerance towards other cultures, making it a true cultural melting pot. However this tolerance has sometimes bowed under external pressures. Between the 60s and 80s, there was resentment about the non-Marathi speakers taking away jobs. The 1991 and 1993 riots between Hindus and Muslims did affect this spirit; however, the city managed to recover from these, once again proudly highlighting true "spirit of Mumbai".

Mumbai has three main seasons: summer, monsoon, and winter (AKA milder summer). The best time to visit is during the winter between October and February. Humidity is also less during the winter, when the climate is pleasant; the minimum temperature is 17°C and the maximum is . Summer is from March to May, with highs in the low to mid 30s (roughly 80–90°F). It is hot and humid during this time. June to September is the monsoon season when the city is lashed by heavy rains. The city gets flooded two or three times and normal life gets disrupted during this season. Climate is humid pretty much throughout the year because the city rests on the coast.

Visitor information Official websites: Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC), also known as the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai (MCGM) Mumbai City District, covers the Old Mumbai area Mumbai Suburban District, covers the suburbs

Get in

Mumbai has excellent connectivity with most of the major cities around the world, including New York, London, Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur to name a few. If you are flying from Europe it is generally cheaper to fly from London, and there are many frequent flights available. All domestic sectors are linked to Mumbai, making it the second busiest hub in the country next to Delhi.

By boat Thane Creek is bustling with ferries to central Mumbai from various cities on the southern and eastern side of the creek, such as Alibag. Ferries from Ferry Wharf also allow cheap access to islands and beaches in the vicinity of the city and Elephanta.

There are no scheduled international ferries to Mumbai, however cruise ships dock regularly.

Hundreds of trains arrive daily from all over India, almost all major cities have a direct connection with Mumbai. Trains terminate at various different stations throughout the vast city, so make sure to note which station is relevant for your journey.

Main reservation offices are at Churchgate, Mumbai Central and Bandra Terminus for the Western line, and Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, Dadar Central and Lokmanya Tilak Terminus on the Central line. There are unique ticket windows and quotas for foreign tourists. Bookings and tariffs on train tickets from anywhere in India from Mumbai can be found at the website of Indian Railways. Notice that while all trains are operated by Indian Railways, the Western and Central Lines function independently and reservations can only be made at certain stations.

The private luxury service Maharajas' Express has travel packages between Mumbai and Delhi. A high-speed railway from Ahmedabad is under construction and is planned to open in 2027.

By car National highway numbers 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 17, and the Mumbai-Pune expressway radiate from the city providing links to all parts of the country. The road conditions are generally better than in the rest of India. Distances from various cities to Mumbai are: From other states: Ahmedabad (, 10 hr), Bengaluru , Chennai , Kochi , Goa (, 11 hr), Hyderabad (, 14 hr), Mangalore , New Delhi From Maharashtra State: Amravati , Ahmednagar , Nagpur , Pune (, 2½–3 hr)

Mumbai is well served by buses from destinations inside India.

Asiad Bus Service The bus terminal, popularly known as 'Asiad Bus Terminal' on Ambedkar Rd in Dadar east is another hub from where buses travel to Pune at regular frequency of 15 minutes to 1 hour. Buses vary in comfort from ordinary to luxury with airconditioning. Other routes available are Mumbai–Satara and Mumbai–Nasik. The easiest way to reach the terminal is to cross over using pedestrian foot bridge to Dadar East from the Dadar Terminus and walk straight all the way (less than 5 mins) to Ambedkar Rd. Private Buses There also exist numerous private bus operators who operate a large number of services from/to Mumbai from most major cities like Udaipur, Ajmer, Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Surat, Indore, Nashik, Aurangabad, Hyderabad, Belgaum, Hubli, Bengaluru, Mangalore, Trichur and Goa. For Pune, buses depart every 10 minutes. Crawford Market, Dadar T.T., Sion, Chembur and Borivili are the main starting points. Some of the reliable private operators are - National,Neeta, Sharma, VRL, Konduskar, Dolphin, Paulo and Southern Travels. The comfortable air-conditioned blue cabs are available to Pune and Ahmednagar-Nashik from opposite Asiad Bus Terminal in Dadar and Lakhamsi Nappoo Rd near Dadar east railway station respectively.

ST Buses. Operates services to Mumbai from various cities in Maharashtra. Mumbai Central is the most important Terminus in the city. All major cities in Maharashtra and nearby states are connected through Mumbai Central Terminus. The other important ST depots are at Parel, Nehru Nagar-Kurla, and Borivali. You can get buses for all over Maharashtra from these depots. But from Mumbai Central you would get buses any time as well as other State Transport buses. Quality varies.

Get around

Most of Mumbai's inhabitants rely on public transport to and from their workplaces due to the lack of parking spaces, traffic bottlenecks and generally poor road conditions, especially in the monsoon. However, do ride in a taxi at least once in the city. Feel real adventure in a vehicle that feels like it might fall apart at speed with a driver who thinks he's Schumacher.

For travelling using public transport, you can download the m-Indicator app for Android and iPhone. It contains useful information about bus and train routes, which can help you plan your commute.

The Mumbai Suburban Railway, commonly referred to as "Locals", is both an icon and a vital artery of Mumbai and a ride on it should be on every visitor's agenda. There are three primary lines in the city center — the Western Line, the Central Line and the Harbour Line. Combined, the network carries a staggering 9 million people daily.

Mumbai is a linear city and the Western Line travels from Churchgate to Dahanu Road via Mumbai's Western Suburbs. The Western line provides north–south connectivity. The Central Line travels from Mumbai CSMT to Ambernath via Mumbai's Central Suburbs and Thane, with some services running beyond to Karjat, Khopoli, and Kasara. The interchange point between the Western Line and the Central Line is . The Harbour Line has a common stretch between CSMT and Vadala Road. The Harbour Line splits into two spurs, the main one running to Mumbai's Eastern Suburbs and Navi Mumbai, up to Panvel. The Interchange point of this line with the Central Main Line is at Kurla. The other spur of the Harbour Line runs up to Mahim on the Western Line and runs parallel up to Andheri. The interchange stations with the Western line are Bandra and Andheri.

The carriages are largely identical, but the first-time rider is still well advised to pay the 10x extra, since second class gets packed like sardines if it's even remotely close to rush hour. The fleet is gradually being air-conditioned, but there are still plenty of non-AC trains about. These often run with the doors open, so don't be a statistic: over 2,000 people are killed on the rails in Mumbai every year.

There would always be queues and it would be advisable to buy coupon booklets. Coupon booklet punching machines are available at all stations and the best thing is you will not have to stand in a huge line to buy a booklet. Another option is to buy a Smart card for Railways. It helps you maintain balance like any gift card with an option to refill it once it goes below the limit. Smart card outlets to buy tickets are available at all stations. They are touch screen based and you can simply follow the instructions to buy a ticket for the right path.

If you are a tourist, you can buy a "Tourist Ticket". Ensure the location of the first-class compartment before the train arrives. You may ask fellow passengers or the vendors at the various food stalls. An easier way to spot the location of the First class compartment is to check the station walls painted with red and yellow slant stripes.

Trains on all lines start running after 4AM and end between midnight and 1AM. Avoid using local trains during rush hour (first class or otherwise). Rush hour is 8:30–10:30AM towards CSMT and Churchgate and 5:30PM–8:30PM in the opposite direction. If you are travelling during rush hour, don't stand near the railway tracks as you will get swamped by frantic. Take no offence if you are pushed and shoved about, as passengers jostle for a spot. As you near your exit station, ensure that you are as close as possible to the train door, as experienced commuters, will begin the mad run to be first on, or off, the car before the car comes to a full stop. If you stand any chance of getting on/off before the train departs, you must be equally aggressive in your focus to exit/enter, remember no one will take offence if you make contact with others, as you wriggle by. Last, but not least, exiting/entering a train before it comes to a full stop is not something to be taken lightly, one misstep can send a person onto the rails with amazing ease! Leave the stunts to the experienced locals.

There are special coaches for women in both classes. These are designated by green and yellow slant stripes, spot these stripes on the station walls and you'll know where the ladies compartment is. These are generally less crowded and safer. But very late at night, it might actually be safer to travel by the general coach than the first-class women's coach, as the latter may be absolutely empty except for you. From 11:15PM-6:30PM the ladies compartment towards the northern end is open to the general public. Sometimes they have a cop guarding the coaches, but sometimes they won't. Use your judgement.

The modern Mumbai Metro is expanding rapidly and offers by far the most comfortable rides in the city. The Aqua Line , in particular, connects the airport to the Bandra Kurla Complex (BKC) business district, and onward all the way to the city's southernmost tip at Colaba, making this very handy for visitors. The Blue Line connects Andheri East and West and Ghatkopar West very well. Line 2A runs through the western parts of the Western Suburbs, and the Red Line eastern part of Western Suburbs both till Andheri.

While there is talk of unified ticketing, for time being each of the three metro operators has its own ticketing and app systems.

Mumbai also has India's first monorail line , connecting the eastern suburbs in Chembur to the south central areas of Wadala and South Mumbai.

By bus The Mumbai Metropolitan Region around Mumbai is fast developing into a major conurbation. If you need to get to the surrounding cities of Thane, Navi Mumbai or Kalyan, bus services are available.

Buses run from 5AM to midnight. Selected routes run beyond these timings, but much less often. The average frequency between buses ranges from five to 30 min depending on the route. Some trunk routes do get extremely crowded, however. Peak hours also have traffic snarls which may depend on the area traversed and the state of the roads.

Buses are numbered and the final destination is marked on the front in Marathi and on the side in English. Generally, buses around the city and trunk routes would be in the 1–199 series. Buses in the western suburbs would be the 200 series while those plying in the central and eastern suburbs would be in the 300 and 400 series. Services to Navi Mumbai are in the 500 series and buses to the Mira-Bhayander area are in the 700 series.

Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport (BEST) provides efficient and comprehensive services connecting all places of the city and the suburbs. Some services also link the city with the extended suburbs like Navi Mumbai and Thane. Seats are almost always occupied. There are bus stops all over the city. There is usually a crowd and queue. You have to get in through the rear entrance and off at the front. Tickets are issued by a uniformed "conductor" after you get in. Special seats are marked for "Ladies", "Senior Citizens", "Handicapped", "Expectant Women", and "Women with infants". They can get in from the front. BEST has launched its app "BEST Prawas" for Android, which contains features like live tracking of buses and ETA of buses. You can also purchase BEST bus tickets and passes using the ridlr app for Android. The MSRTC (Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation), commonly known as ST, operates services from selected points in the city to the extended suburbs. From Dadar, services to Navi Mumbai and Panvel and from Borivali to Thane are the most prominent. Numerous other important routes are also covered in the MMR (Mumbai Metropolitan Region) by the MSRTC.

Another option is to book bus tickets online from Redbus, which has a number of large private bus operators all over India.

There are several types of taxis plying in Mumbai. You can hail a cab off the streets. Virtually all taxis have electronic meters which are somewhat tamper-resistant. If a driver does refuse, a threat to complain to the nearest cop usually does the trick.

A lot of tourists and locals alike use services like Uber and Ola Cabs to commute in and around Mumbai. Make sure to read the tariffs in these before you pay. While most of these services do accept cash, a lot of them can also be linked to online wallet (UPI) services like Paytm; as such, overcharging is rarely a risk.

Follow the queue system to board a taxi. Quite frequently, tourists and new visitors are mobbed by unscrupulous taxi drivers. Most drivers are honest, but the dishonest ones tend to cluster around railway stations and airports where they can more easily find suckers. Unless you are taking a prepaid taxi, always ask taxis to go by the meter.

If you have extra pieces of luggage, the boot (trunk) of the taxi will not provide sufficient space: one large suitcase is all that will fit there. Hiring a taxi with a top carrier will be better. Top carriers can accommodate up to three large suitcases. Before starting the journey, ensure that the luggage is securely fastened to the carrier.

Generally, the only way to call for a standard taxi is to hail one on the street. This will not be a problem if you are within Old Mumbai or Bandra. It will be difficult to find a taxi in the suburbs as they have been out-competed by the cheaper auto-rickshaws there.

The maximum number of passengers allowed for a trip officially is four — three in the back seat and one in the front. Seat belts are not mandatory for taxi passengers and most standard black and yellow taxis will not even have them installed, though the branded ones will.

All the rules of non-air-conditioned taxis apply to air-conditioned taxis too. You can always expect them to be available at tourist hot spots like railway stations, airports, premium hotels, top tourist spots, etc. Where you don't find one, you can opt for a "private" taxi instead, see below.

Private taxis If you want a comfortable, air-conditioned ride at a surcharge of 25% over normal taxis, it's best to travel by branded cab services that operate at government-approved tariffs. These services operate in modern fleets with well-trained drivers. You can get them at 30–60 minutes' notice. They are clean, air-conditioned, equipped with digital, tamper-proof meters, punctual, honest, and GPS-equipped and -monitored, which makes them secure. You receive an SMS with the driver's name, mobile number and car number 30 minutes before the scheduled departure. There is an additional 25% night surcharge (midnight to 5AM). Some can be booked online.

The night charges are only applicable if you board the vehicle between midnight and 5 AM. To prevent this, download the M-indicator app from the Google Play Store or Apple App Store.

Auto-rickshaws are only allowed to operate beyond Bandra and Sion. They are not issued the licence for Old Mumbai. If you are not used to Indian roads, an auto-rickshaw ride can be heart-stopping, death-defying, laws-of-physics-bending.

Before departing, ensure that the meter is visible and shows the flag-down reading as 1.00 (on a mechanical meter). If the number is higher, insist that the driver flags it down once again. The meter remains at 1.00 for the first and every 0.10 movement indicates approx 200 m (i.e. 1.50 for every ). Every auto driver is supposed to carry a valid RTO-approved meter tariff card. You can check this tariff card before paying. The meter also keeps ticking if you are waiting or are stuck in traffic. It's quite handy to have a copy of the meter card issued by The Mumbai Traffic Police. All of this applies to mechanical meters, not digital meters.

Auto-rickshaws are slower than cars and have terrible suspensions. Pregnant ladies are most strongly advised not to travel by auto-rickshaws since the combination of rash driving, poor suspensions, and horrible road conditions have quite often led to serious complications. The auto-rickshaw is a slow and uncomfortable vehicle and is not recommended for very long distances.

By ferry These are a few intra-city ferry services:

Gateway of India to Elephanta Caves Fast boats and Catamarans operated by private operators. These are moderately priced. This is only way to get to Elephanta Caves. Marve Jetty (Malad) to Manori Jetty Cheap ferry (by BEST) connecting Manori and Gorai. Also services for Esselworld (Amusement Park). Versova (Andheri) to Madh Jetty Cheap ferry connecting Madh/Erangal/Aksa/Marve.

By car Travel agents and hotels can arrange private chauffeur-driven cars to provide services. Expensive by comparison with taxis, they are the most trusted, secure, and comfortable way to travel around the city. Driving in Mumbai can be difficult, because of poor driver discipline, but chauffeur-driven services are very reasonable. These can be arranged by travel companies or online from the countries of origin. Car rental agencies also have services in Mumbai.

Talk

Mumbai is India's melting pot — a confluence of people from various parts of India, but dominant are people from the west, then north, and followed by the south. Marathi is the state and city official language used by State Government agencies, municipal authorities, and the local police, and also the first language of most locals.

However, being one of India's largest cities and main commercial centre, Mumbai is now also home to migrants from other parts of India who do not speak Marathi. A local variant of Hindi, with strong Bollywood influence, called Mumbaiya Hindi (or Bambaiya Hindi), serves as the lingua franca. Although almost everyone can understand standard Hindi, you may get an interesting reply from some. Most educated locals will be well versed in Marathi, Hindi and English.

English is widely used in the corporate world and in banking and trading. In most places, you will be able to get by with Hindi and English, as most people you will encounter can communicate in broken English at the very least. However, expect to hear more regional languages including Tamil and Gujarati, in areas where population from these states are higher.

See

There is a lot to see in Mumbai, but the typical "tourist" sights are concentrated in South Mumbai.

By Indian standards, Mumbai is a young city and much of the land comprising the city did not exist until it was claimed from the sea over three centuries ago. It is therefore a pleasant surprise to find rock cut caves such as the Elephanta, Kanheri, and Mahakali within city limits.

The British built a magnificent city within the walls of Fort St. George, which lies at the southern extremity of the city. Some fine examples of the Gothic revival, Neo-classical style and Indo-Saracenic style are seen within this area. To get the best experience of the city centre, stroll around the wide streets of the area right from Churchgate to Colaba. These areas are all beautifully planned and have wide and clean pavements, unlike the rest of the city. Famous monuments to be seen in this area are the Gateway of India, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT, previously Victoria Terminus), the Municipal Corporation and Police Headquarters and the Chhatrapati Shivaji Vastu Sanghralaya (formerly, the Prince Of Wales Museum). The famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is opposite the Gateway of India. The Mumbai University buildings and the High Court are also excellent examples of colonial architecture in the city.

There are a lot of other modern structures to look at in this area. The area known as Marine Drive (right from Girgaon Chowpatty to NCPA) is home to a large number of buildings built in the Art Deco style. Mumbai is second only to Miami in the number of Art Deco buildings. some famous buildings in this style are the Eros and Regal cinemas. The Art Deco and Gothic buildings were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2018.

Some of the India's most famous museums and art galleries are found here. The Kala Ghoda area in South Mumbai teems with them, particularly the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Museum), and the National Gallery of Modern Art. Once again, most of them are concentrated in South Mumbai. Also worth planning a visit is Jehangir Art Gallery, also at Kala Ghoda, displays changing exhibits by notable artists. The plaza next to the gallery also regularly displays exhibits of various artists.

In Nehru Complex in Worli is Nehru Centre Art Gallery at Worli is a gallery dedicated to young and promising talent along with established artists. Also within the complex is a permanent exposition, Discovery of India, which attempts to cover every aspect of artistic, intellectual and philosophical attainment of India through ages. The exposition spreads across 14 galleries and reflects true identity of the country. On the other end of the complex, Nehru Science Centre - which has a separate entrance from Mahalaxmi race course road, has a permanent exhibition on 'interactive and exciting' science related exhibits highlighting science principles in fun yet educational way.

Mumbai isn't known for beaches because they have immensely filthy water! Mumbai has a few beaches, including one in the southern districts. But they aren't that great and the water off Mumbai's coast is extraordinarily dirty. The relatively better ones are in North Mumbai. However, they are a great place to see how the locals spend their Sunday evenings, with various food and game stalls.

There are other beaches to be found such as the Girgaon Chowpatty (the cleanest one) in South Mumbai, Juhu Beach in the Western Suburbs and Aksa Beach in North Mumbai. The currents don't seem strong, but particularly in the rains, lots of people die from drowning, so avoid getting in the water (especially at Aksa Beach). A word of advice to women: Mumbai beaches are not the kind you can wear swimsuits to, particularly two-pieces.

Mumbai has a justified reputation as a concrete jungle, but there are some nice pockets of greenery within the city. It is also one of the rare megacities to have an entire national park within its borders (Sanjay Gandhi National Park). You may not visit Mumbai for them, but if you are already here, they make a nice escape from the din and bustle. It also houses the ancient Kanheri Caves crafted out of rocky cliffs, which dates back 2,400 years.

The city zoo (Jijamata Udyan) in Byculla is a colonial relic and it is surprisingly well-preserved. The animals may look rather emaciated, but the sheer diversity of trees on this lush zoo is worth a trip.

Some city parks are very well-maintained and combine history as well. The Hanging Gardens on the Malabar Hill offers stunning vistas of the Marine Drive. Opposite the Hanging Gardens, there is another park which is known as Kamala Nehru Park, famous for the striking shoe-shaped structure which has been filmed in various Bollywood movies

Further in South Mumbai, the Mumbai Port Trust Garden, is another hidden gem. This is set off a small side street off the Colaba Causeway south of the main section. Attractive views of the port, the naval yards and sunset.

In North Central Mumbai, there is Mancherji Joshi Five Gardens. Mainly used by walkers in the morning, it is a mess in the evenings. But the gardens encircle some historic, art deco residences.

Mumbai is probably worth visiting just for its street markets, the hustle of vendors, and the madness of the crowds. Good places are Bandra, Khar and Andheri. If you came to Mumbai and didn't give visit to the highly dense and crowded markets, it means you didn't meet the real Mumbai.

Hawkers and street shoppers don't ask for any legal permission and then set their stalls at the places where they see maximum footfall. From electronics items to fresh food, you can get everything at railway platforms, subway and mains streets.

Once the British left, the zeal to wipe away the traces of colonial rule was, unfortunately, not matched by the enthusiasm to build a new city that matched the grandeur of the British-era buildings. Now, while the shabbiness of the socialist era is thankfully being replaced by architecture with an eye on aesthetics, the new malls, multiplexes, and office buildings that are coming up are indistinguishable from those anywhere else in the world. Still, they are worth a look, especially if you want to have a look at India's success story. Skyscrapers exceeding 60 stories now dominate the skyline.

For long, Inorbit Mall was the only mall offering a lot of variety for shoppers. Palladium, built within the High Street Phoenix, broke the monopoly of Inorbit Mall. From state of the art interiors to international brands, the Palladium has everything. The new Infiniti Mall (Infinity 2) in Malad also has lots of foreign brands and is one of the biggest malls in the suburbs. Nirmal Lifestyles Mall in Mulund and Metro Junction Mall in Kalyan are two of the largest malls in Mumbai. In the central suburbs, they are quite popular in the city. The Phoenix Marketcity Mall is the largest in the city, located in Kurla. There is also the R CITY Mall in Ghatkopar.

Powai is a modern central Mumbai suburb with European looks. Powai houses the Indian Institute of Technology and is built around fabulous lake. Most of the construction is in a township format and is privately built. It houses twenty top of the line restaurants, two large convenience stores, a handful of coffee shops and entertainment areas. Initially built as an upmarket self-contained township, Powai has now grown into a business process outsourcing hub in Mumbai. The township reflects both characteristics; you will often find families shopping and twenty somethings hanging out in tables next to each other.

Religious places Mumbai has temples, mosques, churches, Parsi agiaries, and even a few synagogues reflecting the diversity of its citizens. While these are naturally of interest if you are a believer, some, like the Portuguese church at Dadar are worth visiting just for their unique architecture.

Mahalaxmi temple is located on the shores of the Arabian Sea, offering a scenic and serene view to the devotees and visitors.

Siddhivinayak temple of Mumbai is very famous. It is in Dadar and you can easily get a taxi to go to the temple from the Dadar railway station.

The city also boasts of Jewish places of worship predominantly in the area called Byculla, but also in South Mumbai. In this area the three prominent Jewish groups of Mumbai lived. They were Baghdadi Jews, Bene Israelis and the locals who had converted over a period of time and lived in the hinterland.

There are two very beautiful Hare Krishna (ISKCON) temples that are significant tourist attractions. One is in Hare Krishna land, Juhu, Andheri and the other in South Mumbai, near Gandhi's house. Both have Govinda's pure vegetarian restaurants at the premises. Most tourists appreciate the peaceful experience in the temple.

The Islamic Research Foundation of Zakir Naik is in South Central Mumbai near Dongri. Is popular with people of all faiths. It hosts a vast library of books from all world religions and is a great place to hangout and know about Islamic culture.

Mount Mary Church, also known as Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, is a Roman Catholic church located in Bandra West.

Haji Ali Dargah is one of the most visited places in Mumbai. The dargah is built on a tiny islet 500 metres from the coast, in the middle of Worli Bay, in the vicinity of Worli. People from different religion and places visit this places. More than 80,000 people visit dargah every week.

One notable monument in North Mumbai is the Global Vipassana Pagoda in Gorai. It is a meditation centre that can seat 8,000 people. Vipassana literally means mediation, and the centre runs 10-day meditation courses and 1 day mega courses on Sundays.

Do

There is a lot to do in Mumbai, but lack of space means that for outdoorsy activities, you need to head north, often outside city limits. In North Munbai and Thane, you will find opportunities for water sports like H2O at Girgaon Chowpatty. There are two golf courses in the city, the more famous one is in Chembur in the Harbour Suburbs.

Mumbai has a vibrant theatre scene with plays in many languages including English, Hindi, Gujarati, and Marathi. While South Mumbai has frequent performances, the best organised theatre effort is at Prithvi theatre, Juhu in the Western Suburbs. There are plenty of opportunities to enjoy Indian classical music and dance. While not a patch on the Sabhas of Chennai, you will find frequent performances of Carnatic music in Shanmukhananda Hall, Matunga in North Central Mumbai. Check newspapers on latest shows as well as performances at prominent halls

Mumbai is also usually the first stop for Western pop and rock stars visiting India, which they usually do when they are over 50. The Rock scene is very good in Mumbai. These are very safe to go to and are recommended for rock fans. Most bands cover heavy metal acts like Pantera, Six feet under, and Slipknot. To try to find places with specific music tastes try asking students outside Mumbai's colleges.

Western classical music performances are rarer. However most classical music performances along with other art forms are regularly performed at NCPA and Tata Theatre, both next to the narrow strip at Nariman Point.

Chowpatty Jayenge Bhel Puri Khayenge; as it says in the lyrics of one of the Bollywood movie song, go to beaches (specially in the evenings) and enjoy local favourite 'Bhel Puri' while the sun sets in the Arabian sea. Take a harbour cruise; cruises from Gateway of India leave every 30 min daily except during the monsoon season (Jun-Sep). You can also rent the Taj's private yacht (has two sun decks and three bedrooms) for a cruise around the Mumbai Harbour if you can afford one. Get crowded, and try catching suburban trains at peak times. You are warned though. Dabba wallahs are a group of couriers in Mumbai who move two million household lunchboxes every day in a complicated system of delivery.

Join for heritage walks. organised by two architects, these walks take you around various historic and architecturally significant areas of the city. Walks are organised on the third Sunday of every month (with a break from June through August for the monsoons) and the route varies each time. The walks last around 2 hours.

Poonawallas Breeders Multimillion; on the last Sunday of February, the glitterati of Mumbai dress up for the Ascot of Mumbai at the Mahalaxmi Race Course. With High Tea, amazing hats, and hundreds of ordinary punters staking their little all on the outside chance, this is the event to attend in Mumbai so try to cage a ticket if you happen to visit around then. Pub Hopping, The number and variety of Pubs in the city allow for an enthralling Pub Hopping opportunity. Watch the sunset at the Gateway of India Watch a Movie; you are in the land of Bollywood. Expect whistles and clapping by crowd in admiration of their celebrities on the screen, except at multiplexes as this occurs at single-screen movie theatres. Most of the cinema halls run both 'popular and new' Bollywood as well as Hollywood movies and some even screen ones in regional languages. Some of the popular Hollywood screening cinema halls in South Mumbai are Eros opposite Churchgate, Metro on M.G.Road, Regal in Colaba, Sterling next to CST Station, and New Excelsior in Fort. With the rise of malls and multiplexes, the nearest cinema is unlikely to be more than a stone's throw away, even in the suburbs. Check out newspaper listing to get the list of latest screenings. Watch Cricket for Free; cricket has a national games stature in India, and Mumbaikars revere that every day of the year. Azad Maidan (Azad ground) near Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, ground opposite to Ruia College in Matunga and Shivaji Park in Dadar west are some of the best places to witness the cricket fever for free. You may be even lucky to witness ongoing game of cricket on some of the empty streets of Mumbai. Mumbai has its state league called the Mumbai T20 League. It is also home to the Mumbai team in the Ranji Trophy. Mumbai has the iconic Wankhede Stadium at Nariman Point and is home to the Mumbai Indians team in the Indian Premier League. Mumbai also has additional stadiums like Brabourne Stadium near Marine Lines. Brabourne Stadium hosts WPL matches is a backup in case Wankhede undergoes renovation etc. Wankhede also hosts international matches against England and Australia and New Zealand and Bangladesh and Sri Lanka and even World Cup matches. Book your tickets early and if you're a Mumbai Indians fan or just watching a match against national teams prepare for the roars when the stars walk in to play.

Events While many religious festivals are celebrated by people in Mumbai, a few of these are essentially public and social occasions where travellers can participate.

Banganga Festival. (Jan) The musical festival is organised by Maharashtra Tourism (MTDC) annually at Banganga Tank on Malabar Hill.

Elephanta Festival. (March) Organised by Maharashtra Tourism, the festival of music and dance at Elephanta Caves has in the past seen performances by renowned artists like Alarmel Valli, Sanjeev Abhyankar, and Ananda Shankar and traditional Koli dances as well as traditional food. 7PM-10PM (Ferries start at 4PM)

Kala Ghoda Festival. The arts and crafts festival is held in the last week of Jan or first week of Feb annually in the historic precinct of Kala ghoda in Mumbai.

Mumbai Festival (Jan) Sample the vibrant culture of the city. The festival covers theater, sports, fashion, food, and shopping. Mumbai Wine Fest (Feb) Wine connoisseurs of the city gather to sample wines, enjoy the culinary delights while soaking in the cultural extravaganza put up at Kala Ghoda.

Christmas (Dec) This is characterised by midnight (nowadays held around 8–9PM on Christmas Eve due to restrictions on loud speakers) masses in churches and is usually followed by a number of private parties all across the city. Diwali (Oct/Nov) Festival of Lights. Start of New Year and opening of new accounts. Worshiping of Goddess Laxmi. Participate in the fireworks and view the bright lights. Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug/Sep) is one of Mumbai's most important and colourful festivals. During the 10 day celebration, Lord Ganesha is worshiped in millions of homes. See the colourful processions and participate in them, the biggest of which is on the last day of the celebrations where the largest idol is brought to Chowpatty for immersion in the wee-small hours of the morning and can vary depending on the crowd and pace of travel from Lal Bagh to the beach. The Lalbaug, Parel, Matunga and Dadar areas represent some of the best large scale decorations. On the last day of the festival, processions are carried out to bid bye to the loved deity in the sea. These presentations are colourful and carry a celebration fever. The best places to watch them are Girgaon and Dadar Chowpatty (beach) or the main roads such as Ambedkar Road from where the processions are carried out. Janmashtami (Jul/Aug) Birth Anniversary of Lord Krishna. Earthen pots full of curd are strung high up across the streets. Young men stand on top of one another to form a human pyramid and attempt to break the pots. Mt. Mary's Feast (Sep) The feast in honor of Our Lady of the Mount is celebrated with great solemnity at St. Mary's Church, Bandra. A week long Bandra fair is held during this time attracting huge crowds. Navaratri (Sep/Oct) is a 10-day festival, where nine of the nights are spent in worship and entire Mumbai swings to the rhythm of Garba and Raas dances of Gujarati community. Eid al-Fitr Muslim festival marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan. Marked by feasting at many places. Non-Muslims can also join in.

Mumbai inherits the cricket fever justifiably and the metropolitan region has 3 of the finest cricket stadiums in India, namely Brabourne Stadium (Churchgate), Wankhede Stadium (Marine Lines) and DY Patil Stadium (Navi Mumbai). Several of international cricket matches and domestic championships such as Indian Premier League (IPL) have been played in these stadiums. Watch out for upcoming cricket stadium to join the cricket frenzy crowd. Apart from these, Ruia College, Shivaji Park, Azad Maidan, Marine Lines are some of the places where live cricket action can be seen for free. Alternatively if you are a football fan, you may want to visit Cooperage Football ground (Colaba) for a local league match. For swimming enthusiasts, Mahatma Gandhi Swimming Pool (Dadar W) is the place to visit. For horse racing, head straight to Mahalakshmi Racecourse (Mahalaxmi). Powai hosts some of the finest Golf fields. For others there are many sport activities including lawn tennis, table tennis, badminton which can be practised at various clubs. Gyms are plenty and can be easily found.

Learn

Cricket - As cricket is like religion in India, many youngsters travel to Mumbai from different corners of India to get professional training in Cricket academies and educational institutes. Film & TV production - The craze of Bollywood attracts many people to try their luck in Mumbai. The city hosts many big film production houses and studios. Most of the big film producers and directors belong to this city and they have opened several training institutions to attract new talent. Indian classical music - The origins of Indian classical music are found in Vedas and the metropolitan city, Mumbai has been continuing the tradition. Most of the die- hard Indian classical music lovers operate training classes to pass on their talent to young generation. Indian cooking - Mumbai is real heaven for food lovers as one can get variety of food here. Food lovers not only love tasting variety of food but they also serve food to others by preserving their cooking talent. Many professional and amateur cook lovers offer free as well as paid classes to passionate learners. Yoga - Being highly busy city in India, the Mumbai people try to revive their life by taking part in different Yoga activities. In their rush schedule, Mumbaikars try to spend some time doing Yoga as they know role of these activities in their life.

Work

Nariman Point and Fort are the usual commercial hubs of the city and the most sought-after destinations. There is a significant expatriate population working in the banks and financial services industries. Bandra Kurla Complex (BKC) is a newer business district in Bandra.

The advertising industry is a prominent industry in Mumbai. Many of the top advertising companies such as Lintas, O&M, Saatchi & Saatchi, Contract, and Trikaya Grey have their offices in the city.

A good idea to make quick money is to work part-time in a BPO or a call centre most of which are concentrated at Mindspace, Malad (W) and Hiranandani Gardens (Powai). Only suitable for English speakers.

Foreigners can also earn a quick buck as extras in Bollywood films. Bring a book as there is a lot of time spent sitting around, so it's not something to do for the money. Normally you won't have to look for them as they will be asking tourists near Leopold's or your hotel manager may ask you when you book in.

Buy

Visa, MasterCards and Indian RuPay cards are widely accepted in the city shops. Many shopping establishments also accept American Express, Diners and host of other cards. However, some of the small shops or family-run shops may not accept these cards and some handy cash can be of help here. ATMs are widely available and many debit cards accepted as well. If you have an Indian bank account or credit card, you may not need to carry too much of cash. If you are a foreigner, it is a good idea to carry some cash to avoid charges while using your credit or debit card.

Many stores and websites accept payments using mobile wallets and Unified Payment Interface (UPI). Some of the popular payment apps are PhonePe, Google Pay, Paytm, BHIM and Amazon Pay.

The shopping experience in the city is a study in contrasts. At the lower end of the spectrum are street vendors. Existing at the borderline of legality, entire streets have been given over to these hawkers and in many places it is impossible to walk on the footpaths, because they have blocked the way. On the other hand, these vendors often give you a great bargain though you will have to haggle a lot and be careful about what to buy. There's nothing like taking a local along to shop for you.

Family-run shops, Or one could do shopping at family-run shops, where the items are behind the counter and one has to ask the salesperson to get items from the list. The traditional way to buy sarees or jewellery is to go to a shop where you sit on a bedspread laid out on the floor and the salespeople bring out their wares one-by-one until you make a decision. Shops like Bharat Kshetra in Dadar have scaled this model up to such an extent that they have a two-storied complex where you can do the same. Shopping malls, Mumbai has been experiencing a boom in malls in the past few years. You can combine your shopping, dining out, and watching movies all in one place.

Antiques & second hand items, Visit Chor Bazar for the best options and bargains Burlingtons, in the Taj is a tailor specializing in Indian outfits. Buy some material and get some clothes made up by a tailor. It's an incredibly cheap way to get quality made-to-measure clothes. Usually only takes a couple of days. Carpets, rugs and shawls Cotton clothes, Mumbai is a great place to buy quality and cheaper cotton clothes. Amongst many notable shops and brands, Cottonworld is a place to look out for. Dhoop, (translates into Sunshine or Incense) A quaint, stylist store where you can find really interesting quality crafts and home accessories. On the corner of Union Park, Near Olive, Off Carter Road in Bandra. Indian musical instruments, Indian music has its own set of musical instruments such as Tabla, Harmonium, straight Flute that it relies upon. These can be brought at various music shops scattered across the city. Some well known shops are L.M.Furtado, Ghaisas & Bros. Khadi clothing, Khadi is an authentic Indian variety of home spun cotton. Mahatma Gandhi advocated the use of khadi as a form of satyagraha against the use of foreign goods and a form of rural self-employment for India during the pre-independence days. Check out the Khadi Gram Udyog Bhavan at 286, DN Road, Near the Mumbai GPO & Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus. It is run by the Khadi Gramudyog Vikas Samiti which is an umbrella organization started by the Mahatma himself which today has evolved into a government registered unit promoting the use of khadi. A good place to buy souvenirs including khadi Indian flags. These are similar in type to the ones used during the freedom struggle. It also houses other forms of fabrics like pure cotton wool, and silk. Some of the items make use of natural straw. Also offer a collection of handmade paper products. Kurties and tunics', a must have in India. Linkin Laado has a wide range of classy kurties, fushion ethnic wear and exquisite dress materials in most sought after pure fabrics such as muls, cottons, maheshwari and chanderi silk in hand block prints and intrinsic chikankari work. The shop is at Link Square Mall, Shop No. F5, Opposite KFC, Above Croma, Linking Road, Bandra West. Leather jackets, go to the main road in Dharavi. You can fit yourself with a leather jacket (they stitch it for you) of leather you pick. Usually takes just one day to get it. Luxury retail, Mumbai has witnessed a massive boom in luxury retail. All the brands you can buy in any other major city are available there. Pashmina, cheap stuff is everywhere and decent shawls in every hue can be purchased at various markups in any hotel arcade. High-quality items in unusual colors and unique designs require more searching. The "pashminas" sold on Colaba Causeway are not anywhere close to pashmina. Sarees, the best place to buy them is Dadar (both east and west). The place is buzzing 12 months a year. On Sundays the crowd can be maddening for outsiders. Good shops to buy Sarees are Dadar Emporium, Lazaree, Roop Sangam. On N C Kelkar Road and Ranade Road you can buy almost everything a woman needs. Bargain hard. Traditional clothing & handicrafts, State government operated emporiums such as those for Maharashtra, Gujarat, and Jammu & Kashmir. sell state specific items of clothing and handicrafts. These are in places around South Mumbai or the shopping arcades of Five Star Hotels. There is also a Central Cottage Industries Corporation of India Emporium near the Gateway of India beside the Tendulkar's restaurant. The items on display include embroidered clothing, carvings, paintings, sculptures etc. and are reasonably priced. Amongst the private labels, Fabindia is a must visit for its variety of kurtas [tunics], salwars, pyjamas, churidars & dupattas. They also offer bedspreads, cushion covers, decorative pillows, quilts, table linens, home furniture etc. Just like the government owned emporiums, Fabindia follows a cottage industry model that supports rural artisans and promotes traditional Indian crafts through contemporary clothing and home décor.. Good quality, smart colours, trendy designs but prices are a bit on the high side. Shops are found across Mumbai.

Bookshops Mumbai has large numbers of organised bookshops. However it also has a number of streetside second hand book shops or displays that give opportunity to come across rare collections. Many of these roadside book shops can be prominently found, among many, near Flora Fountain, Maheshwari Udyyan (former King's Circle) and Dadar west market.

If you are somewhere in the Western Suburbs, Granth on Juhu Road could be a good bet to find the book you are looking for.

The Crossword chain of book shops has an outlet in most malls around the city, as well as the main store in Kemp's Corner.

Take a local with you if you're going to local markets to haggle. Haggling is much louder and ruder in India than elsewhere. And most importantly remember that almost all stores that sell carpets, jewelry, handicrafts, etc. pay huge amounts of commission (25% up to even 50%!) to the cab drivers, hence avoid tourist taxis, cabs, etc. Another thing to remember is not to haggle just for the fun of it. One of the places that you can trust is The World Trade Centre (in Cuffe Parade, near Hotel Taj President). Besides being the only World Trade Centre in Mumbai, this place has an amazing range of exquisite carpets, handicrafts, shawls, etc. with reputed government approved stores and state emporiums too. Ask for receipts everywhere, including bars, and check what you have been charged for. Don't ever accept a guide offer or escort of somebody from the street: You will certainly get conned. If some place (including taxis, restaurants, shops, etc.) claims it doesn't have change (this is highly unlikely), insist they get change from a neighbouring shop.

Groceries In addition to the local grocery stores which can be found on most of the streets, there are new additions to the city in the form of new big and small supermarkets and hypermarkets where you can get all the food items you need. Some of them are Reliance Retail, Star Bazaar, DMart, Spinach Local, Apna Bazaar.

Eat

The dining experience at an upscale restaurant in Mumbai is more or less the same as anywhere else in the world. You can find cuisine from the Middle East, Western Europe, North America and China easily. But to get a real flavour of what's unique to Mumbai, you will have to go a little lower down the scale and experience the street food and Irani cafes. Since March 2015, cattle slaughter is largely banned in Maharashtra, and therefore in Mumbai. Therefore, it is uncommon to find beef served in restaurants. For individual restaurants and other places to eat, go to the individual district pages.

Specialty restaurants Popular search engines to find restaurants easily include Justdial, AskLaila and DizyLocal. The search engines shall provide the address, contact details, and user ratings (if available) of the specific eatery (if name is provided), or list of eatery catering to the specialty (e.g. Seafood, Pubs, Chinese Food, etc.) depending on the location suggested (e.g. Worli, Bandra, South Mumbai etc.).

The suggested restaurant to have food at is Achija. It is spread across various branches that cover almost all parts of Mumbai. Achija's main dish is pav bhaji. Achija is always bustling. It also offers Jain pav bhaji making it a multi-religion meal. Apart from Pav Bhaji, it also provides dosa, idli, uttapam etc. Don't forget to try out the malai kulfi and falooda.

Seafood, Apurva (Fort right off Horniman Circle). If you want to eat some authentic Indian (Konkan) seafood you must visit the Bharat Excellensea. It is next to the Horniman Circle and the Reserve Bank of India. It is becoming pretty expensive. Chinese, India Jones, (Hilton Towers Mumbai), Mainland China (Saki Naka), Ling's Pavilion (Colaba), Golden Dragon (Taj Mahal Hotel), Great Wall (Renaissance), Spices (JW Marriott), China Gate (Bandra), China White (Bandra). Bandra offers a range of Chinese Restaurants. Royal China at VT (behind Sterling Cinema serves some of the best DimSum the city has to offer). The new CG83 at Kemps corner is brilliant and the signature restaurant of Nelson Wang. Also new is Henry Thams. The food is brilliant as are the prices, however the bar is much more popular than the restaurant. Combination Oriental, India Jones (Hilton Towers Mumbai), Pan Asian (at Maratha Sheraton), Seijo, and Soul Dish (Bandra), Joss (Kala Ghoda) has some of the best East Asian food in the country and at moderate prices (compared to hotels). San Qi at the Four Seasons (Worli) combines East Asian and South Asian cuisine quite well. Italian, Shatranj Nepoli (Bandra, Union Park), Little Italy (Juhu next to Maneckji Cooper school), Don Giovanni's (Juhu, opposite JW Marriott), Mezzo Mezzo (at the JW Marriott), Vetro (at The Oberoi, Mumbai), Celini (at the Grand Hyatt), Mangi Ferra (Juhu), Taxi(Colaba), Spaghetti Kitchen (Phoenix Mills, Parel). Japanese, Wasabi by Morimoto (Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba) is Mumbai's best and most expensive restaurant, but Japanese food is on the menus of most Pan Asian restaurants like Tiffin (The Oberoi, Mumbai), Pan Asian (Maratha Sheraton), India Jones (Hilton Towers Mumbai), and Spices (JW Marriott), Origami (Atria Mall Worli). Also Japengo Cafe at CR2 Mall in Nariman Point serves up some sushi. Tetsuma, adjacent to Prive (probably best nightclub in town) serves an average sushi but other dishes are worth a try. Best to go there for a cocktail and a few starters. 'Tian cafe' at Juhu is also a good place for sushi. Lebanese Food, Picadilly, at Colaba Causeway, the only restaurant in the city serving Lebanese food. Alcohol is not served. Parsi, Their ancestors originating from Iran, the Parsis are a special community of people that one would associate Mumbai with. Parsi food is based on ancient Persian cooking. Go to Brittania at Ballard Estate or Jimmy Boy close to Horniman Circle.

Songs have been written about Mumbai's street food and you will find that the hype is justified. You will find them at every street corner, but they are concentrated in beaches and around railway stations.

Bhelpuri stalls, Selling what in the rest of India would be called chaat. In Mumbai itself, the term chaat is rarely used. Bhurji, Either Egg bhurji or Paneer bhurji, a mash of eggs and chopped tomato, onion, chili, and lots of oil. Eaten on the side with some pav. Try the Maker Chamber area (near Crossroads 2, Nariman Point). Chinese food stalls, You'll find them at many places, but they are particularly concentrated near Dadar railway station. They all have a typical Indian twist added to it, which is why it is frequently called "Indian Chinese". Although it is great tasting, the hygiene of these places leaves a lot to be desired. Rolls, Essentially different meat and cheese grilled and served with some Roti and spice, these are cheap and cheerful for anyone with a stomach that can handle it. They are known to be spicy so always ask them to make it mild. Try Ayubs (Kala Ghoda), Bade Miyan (behind Taj and near Colaba Causeway), Khao Gulli (Food Lane, near Mahim Hindu Gymkhana), or Kareems (Bandra). All are particularly busy after a night of heavy drinking. Sandwich stands, Uniquely developed in Mumbai, you won't find anything like it anywhere else in India or the world. Vada pav stands, Fried potato stuffed in yeasty bread. Developed to provide nourishment to mill-workers in Mumbai's burgeoning mills. Now they are found everywhere, particularly in the railway stations. This is a Mumbai specialty. In Vile Parle (West), try the one off S.V Road near Irla across from Goklibai School. One of the most popular ones are opposite Mithibai College which is about 15 mins walk from Vile Parle Station. Also try the one outside Grant Road Station and Churchgate Station.

Tip: cheap and tasty food stalls are concentrated around the city's colleges.

Street stall food in India is fantastic, and very cheap. However, do consider well what you are putting in your mouth. Almost certainly the water used is non-potable, street vendors don't seem to understand much about hygiene or hand-washing, and food safety standards are low, with flies buzzing over everything. Even locals steer clear of street food during the monsoons, when diseases run rampant. If the stall seems very clean, and if it clearly states that it is using Aquaguard or mineral water, go for it.

Mumbai, being home to a large ethnic Marathi community, has its share of notable restaurants that offer authentic Marathi cuisine. Most offer both snacks and regular dining. Some of the snacks to check out are Sabudana Wada, Batata Wada, Missal, Kanda Poha, Uppit (or Upma), Shira, Alu Wadi, Thalipith, Zunka Bhakari,ghavane (neer dosa) and many more. Two notable appetisers are Kokam Sarbat and Solkadhi which are best enjoyed during hot summers. People say that many of these authentic Marathi restaurants are finding it difficult to survive competition with other modern or fast food-type restaurants, but you will find Gajali, Malvan Kinara, Sindhudurg and many more have retained their own charm and clientele.

Mangalorians (and Udupi) form the highest tourist populations of Mumbai, and both cities have similar culture and architecture. "Udupi" restaurants (or "hotels") are everywhere. They bear the name of the town of Udupi in Karnataka, but do not be misled into thinking that they specialise in the cuisine of Udupi. They serve pretty much everything, and that is their specialty.

Usually strictly vegetarian, these restaurants were opened by migrants from the district of Dakshina Kannada in Karnataka (of which Udupi is a part), to satisfy the palates of other migrants from the district. Over time, they gained popularity as places to have South Indian food. As the tastes of their customers evolved, so too did their menus, so much that now you can find Mughlai, Indian Chinese, Bhelpuri, and other chaats in addition to South Indian stuff. Amazingly, some places serve imitations of pizzas, burgers, and sandwiches too!

They are fast food joints and sit-down restaurants combined. The reason to visit them is not to experience fine gourmet dining, but to have cheap, passably tasty and fairly hygienic food. There is no easy way to identify an Udupi restaurant; they are not a chain of restaurants and they may not have "Udupi" in their name, so you will have to ask.

There are few restaurants which could well be heritage sites as they are more than 50 years old and still retain their old world charm (and furniture).

Irani cafes are Persian styled cafes opened by 19th century Persian migrants from Iran. These cafes have a unique lazy atmosphere, display of day-to-day accessories including toothpastes behind the cashier, soaps and what nots (specially targeted at bachelor crowds) and furniture. Most of these cafes were at the corner of the road or building and were chosen spots by commuters to spend time. It was quite a usual sight to find people spending hours reading newspapers over a cup of tea for hours in these places. Sadly the new restaurants and fast food culture has almost removed these cafes from the maps, though few notables like Kyani & Co. and Olympia remain. The joints are best known for their "Irani Chai", "Bun-Maska/Maska Pav" (bread and butter) and Egg Omelette. Also are popular their assorted snacks, like Kheema-na-Patice, samosas, mava-na-cakes, etc. One of the best dish which is almost always on the menu is Kheema (prepared from ground meat) and pav (bread). Don't miss the Mawa Cake at Merwan & Co, a bustling Irani cafe next to Grant Road station and be there before 9AM when the delicious cakes tend to run out.

If you order a thali (translated as "plate"), you get a complete meal arranged on your plate, with a roti or chappati, rice, and many different varieties of curries and curd. Ordering a thali is a popular option when you are hungry and in a hurry as it is usually served blazingly fast. Most mid-level restaurants have a thali on the menu, at least during lunch hours. Occasionally, they are "unlimited", which means that some of the items are all-you-can-eat. The waiters serve them at your table.

Of course, you find many varieties of them, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. There is the South Indian thali. The "North Indian" thali translates to Mughlai or Punjabi. Do try Gujarati or Rajasthani thalis if you can find them. They are sinfully filling and tasty. Rajdhani (At Crawford Market) serves up thalis in the Rajasthani style while Aram (near Mahim Church, Mahim), Ramanayak Udipi (At Matunga Station, east) serves up thalis in South Indian style and Shree Thakker Bhojanalaya (off Kalbadevi Road) do filling and fabulous Gujarati thalis.

Western fast food chains like McDonalds, Subway, Pizza Hut, Dominos, Kentucky Fried Chicken etc. have many outlets all over the city. But if you are a weary Westerner looking for the taste of the familiar, be warned that all of them have rather heavily Indianised their menus, so you will find the stuff there as exotic as you found Bambaiyya food. There are chains serving Indian food such as Jumbo King whose menu includes vada and lassi. Barista, Cafe Coffee Day, and Smokin' Joe's are all Indian chains, although they don't serve Indian food. While Barista and Cafe Coffee Day, as their names suggest, serve coffee and pastries, Smokin' Joe's serves decent pizzas and is headquartered in Carmichael Rd, Mumbai. International coffee chains like The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, Aromas have outlets in Mumbai.

Naturals is a chain of ice cream stores that serves up tasty and unconventional flavours of ice creams. Try their tender coconut or the coffee walnut ice creams. Its main branch is in Juhu in the Western suburbs (hence the tagline - 'Ice cream of Juhu Scheme'), but it has franchises at many places including Marine Drive, Bandra, Nepean sea road, etc. Naturals is also famous for its seasonal "Sitaphal" or Custard Apple Ice-cream. Baskin-Robbins is an international ice cream chain having its presence throughout the city. Also there are a number of shops in malls amongst other places which serve Italian Gelato ice cream.

Try the sumptuous creamy crepes and omelets at Crepe Station, Bandra. It's owned by a famous Bollywood actor, Dino Morea.

Asking a local for suggestions is a fun way to try new things. Here are a few suggestions:

Bhel Puri & sev puri, A classic Mumbai concoction, bhel-puri (or bhel for short) consists mostly of puffed rice and assorted spices with a few chutneys. You can specify whether you want it spicy or bland and the vendor will make it for you. It is quite tasty and again ought to be had off the streets to get the real flavour. Most people like to flock to Juhu Beach to try this out. Hapus (Alphonso) mangoes, A must try, if you happen to be in Mumbai in the summer. Indian-Chinese, Nothing like regular Chinese food. For a typical Bambaiyya flavour, try the Chinese Bhelpuri! Mewad ice cream, If you happen to be in Mumbai, it is recommended you avoid ice creams from the famous and expensive parlors and try out the cheap Mewad ice cream stalls. The vendors are found everywhere across the streets, but avoid those who appear unhygienic. Pani Puri, The vendor hands you a plate. Next he takes a puri (it looks like a golf ball, but brown in colour), makes a small hole in it, and dips the puri into two jars. These jars contain water, one tangy on a tamarind base and the other spicy on a mint base. He tops it off with some condiments and places the puri on your plate. You pick it with your hand and pop the whole thing into your mouth. To avoid stomach problems only buy from vendors using packaged water. Pav Bhaji, Part of the street food culture, this is mashed vegetables cooked in spices, topped with butter and served piping hot with pav. Widely available. Vada Pav, the vada is a mashed potato patty. Pav is a kind of bread that has its roots in Mumbai. (The word comes from the Portuguese word "pão", for bread). The potato patty is sandwiched in the bread. Liberal helpings of three kinds of chutneys are added to the sandwich to make a tasty snack. If you feel uncomfortable with the hygiene of a particular stall, avoid it. In that case eating at Jumbo King Vada Pav outlets, found almost at all train stations in the city, is a hygienic and safer option. Variations of world cuisine such as Tandoori Chicken Pizzas, the Bombay Masala Pizza or McAloo Tikki burgers.

Tipping Tipping is not expected, but would be appreciated. However, if a place includes service charges on the bill, you don't need to leave an extra tip. Note the difference between service tax and service charges. Service tax goes to Government and not to the staff.

Drink

Mumbai is one of the most liberal cities in India when it comes to attitudes to alcohol. Bars exist at virtually every street corner and many of them advertise themselves as "family" bars and restaurants, which indicates that they are primarily restaurants where one can also have a drink. Other places are primarily bars, some of them might be sleazy. In South Mumbai and in the Western Suburbs, you are likely to find many places where foreigners hang out.

Mumbai is much more accepting of women drinking than the rest of India. A woman ordering a drink is unlikely to raise eyebrows even in mid-range bars, though if you are alone, you might need to look out for your safety.

Nightlife in Mumbai spans the gamut from performances at five star hotels to discos. Dance bars which involve young, fully clothed women dancing mostly to Hindi film and pop music, have been shut down by the government for "corrupting the morals" of those who frequent those places. While the state high court has ruled that the crackdown was illegal, it will be a while before they open again as there are some technicalities involved to be sorted out.

In Mumbai, alcohol is much more easily available than many cities in India.

There is already a lively late night, if somewhat subterranean, scene for gays, as well as social and political networks. However, you need to do your homework before arriving, as LGBT gathering spaces and organizations are not published or available at local newsstands. However, Bombay Dost (Bombay Friends) the only magazine catering to the community, after 7 years of running was closed and relaunched in 2009. Much of Mumbai's LGBT scene is coordinated using social networking sites and groups. Use extreme caution; robberies, hustlers, and even police entrapment are not unheard of.

There many coffee shops in and around Mumbai. Try the Cafe Coffee Day and Barista chains. Also, three Starbucks stores were opened in Mumbai in late 2012, and more are likely to follow. These are the best around town and also serve some pretty neat coffee for cheap. There's the Cafe Mocha chain of coffee shops which also serve fruit flavoured hookas — South Asian smoking pipes. If a small coffee and cookies place is what you are looking for, try Theobroma, it has an outlet at Cusrow Baug in Colaba. Those looking for a more native form of coffee can try the filter coffee, a milky coffee with origins from South India, from any Udupi restaurant.

Sleep

It is very difficult to find good-budget hotels in Mumbai. If you are a tourist or a business traveller, you may have to stay in South Mumbai, which is where both the business district and the touristy areas are. Lack of space means that even the cheapest hotel charges stratospheric tariffs. The state of public transport and traffic means that it is not really a good choice to stay anywhere else. In any case, things aren't much better if you are looking for hotels close to the CSMI airport. You should be looking at the Western Suburbs in that case. There are many guest houses at Colaba, where you find most of the budget foreign travellers stay. Other budget hotels are found near railway stations, such as Dadar or Santacruz, but most of them are absolute dumps. One safe and economical place to stay in Mumbai is the YMCA. Reasonably priced accommodations are available at the Colaba, Bombay Central, Andheri and CBD Belapur Branches.

One inexpensive alternative is to live with a local family as a paying guest.

On the other hand, if money is of no object, you can stay at the Taj in Colaba (the oldest in India), the Leela Kempinski, the ITC Grand Maratha, or the JW Marriott Mumbai, Renaissance Mumbai Hotel & Convention Centre.