Uyuni.
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Overview

Uyuni is a tourist town in Potosí Department, Bolivia, which serves as the main gateway to Salar de Uyuni, the enormous salt flat nearby.

Understand

Uyuni is a small town in the middle of nowhere. It originally blossomed as a transportation junction and then as a railroad hub, and though this is still an important aspect, tourism is now its main source of prosperity. What would otherwise be a fairly dull stopover en route between Salta, Argentina and La Paz or Potosí, has become absolutely mandatory on this leg of the gringo trail. The sole reason: salt flats, the world's biggest: the Salar de Uyuni.

There's not that much to do in Uyuni itself, so just plan to stay for as long as it takes you to do your salt flat tour. Spending one night in town before the tour and one night after should be enough, and may even be more than you need depending on your transportation plans.

There's a helpful of the town right across the street from the train station.

Get in

By bus Uyuni doesn't have a real bus station, just on Avenida Arce a few blocks from the train station.

La Paz – You will need 12-15 hr by bus. The bus ride can be bitterly cold in winter - travellers have been known to sit in their sleeping bags on the night bus from Oruro to Uyuni. With some options you must change buses in Oruro to get to La Paz. Buses to Oruro/La Paz are often booked up in advance - you likely need to book at least the day before, several days if you wish to take the comfortable tourist bus or one of the better bus companies - best to do this before going on a Southwest Circuit tour (if coming from San Pedro de Atacama, be prepared to spend a night in Uyuni and have little choice of bus company). Potosí – There are several buses daily to and from Potosí (3-4 hr, Bs. 30), and there to and from Sucre (3-4 hr more). There are also less frequent direct buses to Sucre. Beware however that companies have cancelled buses without notice in the past, and without even opening their office to explain. Tupiza – Many daily buses from Tupiza at around 05:30-06:00, 10:00 and 18:00, stopping halfway for lunch in Atocha, even if they say "direct". Take the chance to see the nearby mine and stroll around a little. There is a market west of the rail tracks already in the morning as well. 5 hr, Bs. 40-60. Three days a week there are 09:00 departures, and occasionally a Land Cruiser departs 18-19:00—ask around. Although the train is definitely smoother, and somewhat faster, this bus ride offers terrific views.

The Uyuni buses can become very cold when travelling overnight. So, better bring a warm sleeping bag or very warm cloths—remember, you are not moving just sitting most of the time.

By train The is centrally located and an important landmark.

Trains of Ferroviaria Andina run south to Villazón on the Argentinian border, stopping in Tupiza and Atocha. Northbound trains go to Oruro. The formerly existing train connection to Calama, Chile has been discontinued. Trains leave Villazón Thursdays at 14:30 and usually arrive in Uyuni around midnight. Trains leave Oruro Mondays at 21:30 and arrive in Uyuni around 04:30 in the morning.

The train to and from Villazón passes beautiful mountain scenery on the way.

By car You can also rent a car in La Paz and drive. After Challapata the road signs are scarce to find Uyuni, in the rainy season the rivers grow and it's dangerous to come in a car that is not a jeep 4x4.

See

Despite its modest size and geographical isolation, Uyuni is worth an hour or so walking around. Particularly the Avenida Ferroviaria has many monuments, mostly railroad related. Allegedly Bolivia's first locomotive, stands in the middle of Avenida Ferroviario, by the corner of Calle Santa Cruz. The first locomotive is in Pulacayo almost 20 km on the road to Potosi. Used in the Huanchaco mine. Train Graveyard - a couple of km south of town, by the railway to Chile, there are dozens of old, rusted locomotives, a few wagons and some other antiquated machinery. Usually a stop on salt flat trips.

Museo Ferrocarril y Museo Arqueologico Antropologico. A rail museum, inconveniently located behind the train station – walk all the way around to the street behind the station to find it.

Do

Salar de Uyuni – The salt flats can be visited on day trips, or longer trips, up to 4 days, including a swipe down towards the Chilean border and the lagoon and geysers of that area. Be aware that during the longer trips of 3 or 4 days going towards the Chilean border, you will travel up to 5,500 m above sea level. Rising quickly by car could cause altitude sickness. Most tours leave at about 10:00, and it's easy to arrange one at the tour companies' offices around the train station. As of 2018, the best prices from Uyuni for the 3 day tours go for around Bs. 600, plus Bs. 50 if you want onward transport to San Pedro de Atacama. (Make sure that you point out that you only wish to go with a responsible driver; there have been reports of drunkenness among drivers that may be averted with continued pressure on the tour companies before departure.)

Buy

On Thursdays, several blocks of the main street Avenida Potosí turn into an open air market, selling a bit of everything, including loads of handicrafts. Souvenir shops and other stores (including outdoor recreation stores, small supermarkets, and clothing stores) are scattered throughout the downtown area.

Money There are several ATMs in Uyuni, on Calle Potosí. WARNING: the Banco Credito ATM will still charge your card if it runs out of cash. You will not get your money and the bank staff will be 'unable' to help you even if you speak Spanish fluently. On weekends the Maestro ATM runs out of cash stranding tourists who counted on that ATM for money. Bring an extra stash of dollars just in case. Prodem gives cash advances on Mastercard or Visa credit cards with a 5% commission. There are several casas de cambio to change travellers' checks or dollars, euros, Chilean pesos or Argentinean pesos.

Eat

Western food for tourists is generally overpriced and bad. Stick to Bolivian dishes. For a cheap lunch (Bs. 10 for soup and main) head for any little joint with the sign Almuerzo outside.

Minuteman Pizza. Closed for construction as of December 2017. Within the Tonito Hotel, backpackers congregate here in the evenings (enter through the hotel reception, this keeps wandering petty thefters from entering). Large variety of pizzas (including spicy llama), great breakfast, English-speaking owner, travel-book library. Just don't arrive too early for dinner - the people running the hotel were incredibly rude and refused to let us wait 30 minutes in the lobby for the place to open.

Restaurant Pizzeria "Jalisco". Centrally located restaurant with a variety of options, including pizza, Mexican food, and vegetarian dishes. Free wifi.

Sleep

Beware of the cheap hostels near the bus offices. If you arrive in the early morning these places will charge you a full night for your stay until noon.

Hotel Avenida. Clean and inexpensive in the town center, near tour operators. Only two hot showers, but the door to one is often locked.

Tonito Hotel. Mid-range hotel in town. Rooms are situated around an internal atrium area. Clean rooms, solar or electric-heated showers, transportation from train station available, book ahead in the high season. New rooms with solar showers and heating. Very slow wifi, American buffet breakfast.

Luna Salada Hotel. Salar de Uyuni, High-end hotel at the entrance of the Salar de Uyuni. Walking distance from the salt flats. Offers glamping and spa possibilities.