La Paz.
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Overview

La Paz is the administrative capital of Bolivia, while Sucre is the constitutional capital and the seat of the Supreme Court.

Understand

La Paz was established in 1548, and is in the Andes. Altitude of the city ranges from about above sea level in El Alto (where the airport is located) to 3,100 m (10,170 ft) in the lower residential area. It is the highest national capital in the world.

The sight from the air as you fly into La Paz is incredible. First, you see the sprawling shantytowns of El Alto, slowly giving way to the sight of La Paz, clinging tenuously to the sides of what looks like a large gash in the earth.

La Paz was built in a canyon created by the Choqueyapu River (now mostly built over), which runs northwest to southeast. The city's main thoroughfare, which roughly follows the river, changes names over its length, but the central tree-lined section running through the downtown core is called the Prado.

La Paz geography, in particular the altitude, reflects the city's society: the lower you go, the more affluent. While many middle-class paceños live in high-rise condos near the center, the really rich houses are located in the lower neighborhoods southwest of the Prado. The reason for this division is that the lower you go in the city the milder the weather is. And looking up from the center, the surrounding hills are plastered with makeshift brick houses of those struggling in the hope of one day reaching the bottom.

Also covered in this article, the satellite city of El Alto, in which the airport is located, is spread over a broad area to the west of the canyon, on the altiplano. El Alto once served as a residential area for the airport and railway service workers. Now it's a big city with a bigger population than La Paz. The buildings are low - a limitation imposed by the airport. The altitude of the city is about 4,058 m (13,313 ft) above sea level. El Alto is mostly inhabited by Aymara people. Living conditions on altiplano are less friendly than those down in La Paz. People in El Alto are poorer and feel discriminated against by people in La Paz. However, the government is investing in education there, which may bring a positive change.

Bank holidays and special dates 16 July - Anniversary of La Paz

Get in

60 per person. 25 per person. Only use radio taxis with a sign on the roof. 3.80. If you are arriving on a domestic flight, you will see the vans straight ahead to your right when exiting after baggage claim. The route that it follows takes you down the autopista, past San Francisco Plaza, El Prado, down to Plaza Isabel la Católica.

When returning to the airport, please give yourself plenty of time if taking the bus. Often they are full once they pass near Plaza San Francisco, especially during rush hour 17:00-19:00. The first bus leaves from Plaza Isabel la Católica in Sopocachi at 06:15.

Some South American airlines (LATAM, Avianca, etc.) serve El Alto Airport as well local airlines (Boliviana de Aviación (BoA) and Ecojet).

Get around

Public transport in La Paz is largely underdeveloped compared to its counterparts in Europe and East Asia, or even other South American cities. Due to narrow streets driving is not recommended. Most of the time, a taxi is often preferred.

By bus There are three types of shared public transportation in La Paz: regular buses or "micros"; shared vans, called "mini buses", and shared taxis running set routes advertised on the windshield, called "trufis". 1.30 while. The mini buses are Bs. 1.50-2.30 depending on duration. 3-3.50. Mini buses in El Alto are just Bs. 1.

You can hail a bus or mini bus anywhere; to get off, just yell out "¡voy a bajar!"

By cable car A system of nine cable car lines (Mi Teleférico) connects El Alto with downtown La Paz and reaches even Imparvi. Bs. 3 for a ride. More stations and lines are being added and using them saves a lot of time, compared to taxis or minibuses, which sometimes wait for decades in the traffic. 25 with Bs. 5 credit and will save you time waiting on queues for tickets. You need a new ticket for each transfer. Nowadays tickets for all lines are the same, so you can buy a bulk and avoid the queues (e.g. tickets bought at the red line are also valid for the blue line etc.). The locals are very proud with the system, keep it in immaculate condition and greet each new passenger, entering the car.

Even if you're not trying to get to El Alto, riding a cable car is an experience in itself. If you take the red line up to 16 de Julio station in El Alto, it gives you a great view of the city from above. It is even possible to make roundtrips around the whole city; Linea Roja, Linea Plateada, Linea Amarilla, Linea Blanca and Linea Naranja form a circle—5 times Bs. 3 for a round trip of 1.5-2 hr.

The easiest way to get around is by taxi. 6–8. If you want to go further, ask two or more taxi drivers before boarding. 20.

As far as ride hailing services go, as of 2024, La Paz is Didi country – there are hardly any Ubers to be found.

If you ever find yourself lost, in general the easiest thing is to simply walk downhill. You will eventually find yourself on the Prado or another main avenue, then You'll be able to take a taxi to the downtown, if you are on the southside of the city (Zona sur).

See

Sagarnaga Street. La Paz's main tourist strip. It's mainly a market street with artesano and souvenir stores, but you'll also find budget hostels, tour and travel agencies, cafes, and lots and lots of backpackers. Don't be suckered by the roving sellers of "trilobite-in-a-rock".

The Witches' Market. Vendors sell llama fetuses and dried frogs for Aymara rituals, as well as soapstone figurines and aphrodisiac formulas. This street is also the best place to pick up a charango or other Bolivian musical instrument.

Eloy Salmon. Shops on this street sell cheap electronics.

Calle Jaen. One of the few places in the city with preserved colonial buildings, now housing several interesting museums.

Plaza Murillo. Contains government buildings and the city cathedral, Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace (Catedral Basilica Menor de Nuestra Senora de la Paz). The center of the square has a monument dedicated to Murillo.

Palacio Quemado. Official residence of the president of Bolivia. Tourists are not allowed inside.

Main cemetery. Very different from cemeteries you'd normally see in Europe. A big place, many aisles with walls and holes (like shelves), where ashes of the dead are bricked up and stored. Fronts decorated, different things (i.e. photos, artificial flowers, electronic ladybugs, mini Coca Cola bottles) left for personal memory of the dead - all very colorful and very diverse. Sometimes fronts covered with glass doors. Part of walls are multi-storey to keep more ashes. Colored ladders, stairs and platforms help people to approach holes up the walls. You can see construction of new walls being made. There is a crematorium, graves with buried bodies, monuments, crypts, and mausoleums that commemorate e.g. warriors. Big colorful graffitis (related to death but to life as well) make it all even more interesting. Due to all the colors and solutions there, the cemetery seems to be interesting and lively place. Red line of cable car gives you a good view from above.

Valle de La Luna. Surreal, weathered rock. It is a natural attraction of great beauty whose authors are water and air, which through its erosive effects of terrain created whimsical formations of cones and craters that resemble a lunar landscape. If you want to see more eroded formations with glittering diamond like silver and pink sand, try going on a red bus to Alpacoma from Calle Buenos Aires, then take a Bs. 2 trufi to the brick ovens, then walk a few minutes over the pass to the upper Achocalla valley (towards the well-hidden municipal dump).

Valle de las Ánimas. Similar to the above. Eerie rock formations with appearance of stalagmites. Walking, climbing, photography and observation of the city can be done here. At height of , it allows a view of the city and the snow-capped Illimani and Mururata mountains.

The Thursday & Sunday Market in El Alto or Feria de 16 de Julio. A huge market held in El Alto every Thursday and Sunday. This mostly Aymara market is one of the world's biggest, and a person can find just about anything. The latest software and DVDs are practically free as are high quality used clothes, jackets, sweaters and everything else imaginable. The market is an attraction in itself – you can buy stuff, see people, eat local food. For newbies, stick to the railroad tracks starting at the ceja and ending at Plaza Ballivian. Do not bring anything valuable (like camera or iPhone) and keep your money (except small bills like 10's) inside your clothing. Bring sunblock. Expats living in Bolivia are known to enjoy the bargains available in order to furnish their houses, to dress their kids, and to buy plants for their gardens. To get there, take the red cable car line from to . It helps to be there early on the market days, at 10 o'clock you might already encounter a very long waiting line. It might be worthwhile waiting because the view from the cable car over the city is spectacular and even if the line looks like you have to wait for hours, it might be only half an hour. Buy your ticket first (Bs. 3) and then get in the line. You might encounter a second, shorter line for people that own a prepaid card (tarjeta) to pay for the cable car ride. Alternatively, take one of the hundreds of shared taxis (Bs. 2.50) that have the destination "Ceja" in the front window. You can find them all over the city, e.g. at the Prado, or if you are at the Teleférico and decide you don't want to wait that long, from this .

Mercado Uruguay. A labyrinth of street market stalls on a steep slope. Best fish meals in the city ("Fish Alley"). From the corner of Santa Cruz and Illampu walk up hill about four blocks... that is, two blocks will bring you to the round Plaza 14 de Septiembre. One block straight up will bring you to Eloy Salmon, and another block to the market.

Museo San Francisco. This restored religious complex has housed some of Bolivia's most important historical moments, including the birth of the Independence Revolution of 1809. Also, you can climb the church tower to get a panoramic view of the indigenous and Mestiza quarters. Displays are in Spanish and English along with personal guides.

National Ethnographic and Folk Museum. MUSEF shows Bolivian cultures in their historic dimension and their current situation. These cultures are alive in the cities and the countryside, in markets, schools and churches, in streets, the jungle or a minibus. Not a single corner of Bolivia escapes its diversity. And to understand this complexity better, the MUSEF offers an incomparable tour.

National Museum of Art. No doubt, the tour through the National Museum of Art is a ride through the history of Bolivian art, its paintings, sculptures, photos and other artistic expressions; a singular experience for national and foreign visitors.

Coca Museum. A favorite of foreign tourists, this small museum details the history and significance of the coca plant, including the effect of the U.S. War on Drugs. The displays are in Spanish, but booklets of complete translations in other languages are provided. According to the museum, crack cocaine is the greatest epidemic since the Plague in the Middle-Ages. And yes, there are free samples of coca leaf for visitors.

Musical Instrument Museum. Displays a huge collection of sound-producing devices from Bolivia and beyond, some of which you can play yourself. The museum was founded by charango master and inventor Ernesto Cavour, and some of his creations on display (such as multi-bodied guitars) are downright bizarre.

Museum of Precious Metals. Pre-Columbian treasures in silver and gold.

Submerged Museum. Hardly deserving the name "museum", it's essentially a small outdoor plaza sunk into the ground with a huge replica Tiwanaku monolith in the middle of it. The original one used to be there, but it was moved back to Tiwanaku for preservation.

La Paz is a city which can be a sight in itself, and there are several viewing places or miradores offering impressive panoramas.

Mirador Killi Killi (from Avenida Sucre take Avenida La Bandera and then walk straight up, the mirador is on the right side). You can get the best view of La Paz from here. No entrance fee. You can either walk, take a taxi or bus to get there. Buses with sign "V. Pabon" go there, such as "micros" W, P, 22, 137. Parque Laikacota (at the top of Av. Ejercito west of the city center). The best panorama from within the bowl, with clear views of the city and the rugged terrain to the east, all the way to Mt. Illimani. Admission is Bs. 3.50. Mirador Monticulo (next to Plaza España). This small park (free entry) has a church and lots of trees which block much of the city, but the clear view of Illimani makes it an evening hotspot for couples. Av. Camacho (in the heart of downtown). Points straight to Illimani, and from the intersection with the Prado it's framed by skyscrapers in an interesting juxtaposition. Condor Samana (take a red bus from Calle Buenos Aires east towards Ciudad Satellite). Near Alpacoma, The most unknown of La Paz view sites, on top of some eroded cliffs below Ciudad Satellite, The condors used to nest here before the city moved up. If upu look out the left hand side of the bus you will spot the castle like formation a bit before getting to El Alto.

Do

Take it easy on your first day in La Paz if you arrive from low altitude. Even if you feel fine, resting and walking slowly will help. Try not to eat too much, at least the first day or so. And sleep as much as you can.

Visit tourist information services at the Plaza Estudiantes or Prado, they will tell you a lot about what you can do in and around La Paz.

The Self-guided Public Transport Tour. The best way to see the real La Paz is to jump on and off public transport minibuses and micros at random, go to the end of the line, turn around and jump off at any place that looks interesting. Buy fruit and so on along the way and talk to people in the peripheral zones. Inexpensive, quite safe, and you will see the most fascinating things imaginable. Add cable cars to your tour to make your impressions even more memorable - you won't forget the breathtaking view of El Alto with mountains in the background, or the change of perspective when entering La Paz from El Alto.

Crazy Dave. "Crazy Dave" is a New Yorker who was arrested for drug smuggling in Bolivia and spent years in San Pedro Prison in La Paz. Most afternoons he can be found telling his story (with perhaps a bit of embellishment) at Plaza San Pedro near the prison. He's quite a character, and the story is interesting and entertaining.

Bolivian wrestling cholitas. Cholitas are indigenous Bolivian women who can be seen all over La Paz in traditional clothing. If you seek it out, you can also see this unusual WWE-inspired entertainment event, where Bolivian women wrestle in front of an audience. Shows every Sunday at Ceja El Alto, Zona 12 de October. Taxis from downtown tourist area at most Bs. 50.

One of the most recognizable aspects of Andean culture is its folk music, which you can enjoy at a number of peñas, or music clubs.

Huari, Calle Sagarnaga 329. Its location makes it the convenient choice for foreign tourists, so be prepared for extreme tourist prices and slightly tacky decor. (The ancient Incas probably didn't have black lighting.) Nonetheless, the music and dance performances are excellent.

MegaCenter (in the entrance to Irpavi in the "Zona Sur"). From downtown you must go on public transportation. MultiCine, 2631 Avenida Arce, (a couple of blocks south of Plaza Isabel de Catholica). Multiplex cinema with a 3D screen. Shows current Hollywood blockbusters. The Cinemateca Boliviana, (Guachalla and Federico Suazo St). Most modern movie theater in the city. You can see new mega-releases, local films and international festivals.

16 de Julio (near to Plaza del Estudiante). Cine Azul (at the beginning of Av. 16 de julio). Despite the best efforts to censor it, Latin America's premier underground bluey showhouse is still up and running. The steam is literally dripping off the walls, among other things.

Around the city Mountain biking the Death Road aka Yungas Road – A 64 km long scenic ride downhill to Coroico. Also possible by car. Walk El Choro Trek or Takesi Trail – Take one of these multi-day hikes (or both if you like), they will show you beautiful terrain and Inca ruins. Climb some peak – There are some nice "over 6,000 m" peaks around, which will take your heart. If you can't climb a peak, walking around is nice too, and rewards you with views and experiences. Better find guides than go on your own. Easiest seems to be Huayna Potosi. More remote, but possibly more rewarding, are Illampu (accessible from Sorata), Illimani. The most remote is Sajama, accessible from Sajama National Park.

Learn

Instituto Exclusivo. Study Spanish, English, Dutch, German, Portuguese or several other foreign languages with experienced and personable teachers. Excellent individualized and small group instruction with friendly staff. Activities from salsa classes to local excursions, including museum, market or peña visits upon request. Free internet, homestays and transportation.

Pico Verde Languages. Friendly Spanish school in the heart of La Paz´s historical district. Specialises in crash courses for travellers wanting to get to grips with or improve their Spanish, as well as longer courses for those spending more time in the city. Group or individual classes tailored to any level, with experienced teachers who all speak fluent English, as well as some French, German and Italian speakers. Homestays and volunteering opportunities can be arranged, as well as other activities. Competitive prices and laid back atmosphere.

ABC Spanish Tuition. The schedules for the lessons are completely flexible and the student could start lessons any day of the week. Individual, Group and tailor-made classes. Family homestay, Volunteer work and Educational tours could be organized for students during the course. Intensive lessons 3-4 hr/day or Short-term intensive lessons 5-10 hr/day. Free hostal pick-up.

Rita Clavijo. For those who find learning in a formal school environment difficult, or whose schedules make fitting in with a school's timetable impossible. Rita offers private tuition at whatever time is most convenient, either at her home, your hostel, or a quiet café of your choice. More than 10 years of experience teaching Spanish, and a positive, adaptable approach based on her extensive study of cognitive theory. Specialises in helping students who have found that rigid, traditional approaches don't work for them.

Buy

See Bolivia#Money. Bring cash to exchange rather than relying on your card or ATMs. 10-11 per dollar. So do not be deterred if their sign says they exchange U.S. These vendors, or casa de cambio agencies, are very common in La Paz. Be sure to check the bills they give you to ensure they are real banknotes, and double check their math to make sure they don't short you.

Best music. If you want to bring some Bolivian culture home and buy some of the best music, the top picks are Discolandia in Prado, Museum of Musical Instruments in calle Jaén, and MP3 vendors near San Francisco Church and market Lanza.

Mamani Mamani Gallery. View and buy colorful paintings and postcards of renowned Aymara artist and most well-known Bolivian painter Mamani Mamani.

Suritayka Luxury Alpaca Clothing, leather bags and jewelry. Alpaca clothing company, owned and managed by Bolivian women. Suritayka uses only the highest quality of alpaca wool (baby, super fine and royal) to produce pullovers, cardigans, wraps, ponchos, hats, et al. The store also offers leather products and jewelry.

Musical instruments. Some small shops (low prices) are in El Alto near the Che Guevara statue. More shops, but slightly more expensive, are in calle Linares and around. You can buy "user manuals" as well to help you getting started.

Gear & equipment. Several shops in calle Illampu.

Handicrafts There are many shops around Calle Lineares, which sell clothing, weavings and other stuff. It‘s sold as made of Alpaca or Baby Alpaca wool. It is not entirely a lie but the fabric is not pure Alpaca but a mix of synthetic and Alpaca wool (80%/20%) or even less. Pure Alpaca wool is heavy and feels cold in the beginning.

Fair trade shop. Weavings are upstairs, better quality than the stuff on the street with comparable prices. Nicely mounted with wood panels and ready for hanging.

A Manos. Good quality handicrafts. Has a café (Café El Consulado), travel agency; Topas Adventure Travel Bolivia, and 5 great rooms.

Ayni Bolivia. Fair trade store member of World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO), has 26 different groups, with a wide variety of handicrafts (alpaca, wood, ceramics, native textiles, table cloth, greeting cards). One store is located inside Hotel Rosario and other at the street.

Maps La Paz is a good place for buying maps of the country. Topographical maps are available in 1:50,000, 1:100,000 and 1:250,000. The most popular maps, including the 1:250,000 version of Cordillera Real and the 1:50,000 version of Volcan Sajama are sold by street vendors that roam Calle Sagarnaga and from stalls along el Prado. But the best place to buy maps is the "Instituto Geográfico Militar", IGM. The institute has two offices in town, listed below.

Edificio Murillo No. 100, Calle Juan XXIII parallel to Calle Murillo at the end of Calle Rodríguez. This office is likely to be closest to where you stay and sometimes has as map or two on offer, but most often asks you to come back mañana when they still don't have the map you want. It has a nice atmosphere though, and makes a nice visit for map lovers. Oficina Central, Estado Mayor General, Av. Saavedra No. 2303. This is the place to go, but a little out of the way. It is said to be open afternoons, but it's best to visit 21:00-23:00. Closed if there's a soccer game in the nearby Stadium. Take a micro marked "E. Mayor" from Plaza San Francisco. The unmarked entrance is 20 m down Av. Saavedra from the main car entrance to the Estado Mayor. Surrender your passport in the window marked IGM, get a number tag to hang around you neck and walk down the road and to the left. Many maps are only available in copies for Bs. 30 a sheet. An original is Bs. 40.

Eat

What For lunch try the little almuerzo-kitchens. You'll get a decent menu for under Bs. 10. Be careful with or avoid salads the first days. If you are on a budget it is always possible to eat in the local markets.

Street food is plentiful in La Paz, including juice, snacks, and meals. The avocado sandwiches are delicious, if you're lucky enough to find someone selling them.

Vegetarian options are rare, but easier to find than some years ago.

Two national dishes that are from La Paz are pique macho and plato paceño.

Where Most of the fancier restaurants in La Paz are at the bottom of the Prado, around the vicinity of Plaza Isabel La Catolica and Plaza Avaroa.

There's a string of inexpensive pizza and hamburger joints on the west side of Avenida 6 de Agosto south of Plaza del Estudiante.

Sergio's is considered good for pizza, and is good for checking upcoming music venues.

Chifa Puerta del Sol. Average Chinese. Not worth the 17-km drive out of the city.

El Consulado. Best brunch in town, gourmet food in beautiful surroundings. Wifi and garden. Working with the "New Andean Kitchen" and organic coffee. Closed in the evening.

Angelo Colonial. A dark, bohemian cafe set in an old mansion decorated with scads of antiques. Serving Bolivian and mediocre international food. The best drip coffee in La Paz. Painfully slow service. Another location on the Prado. Serves llamas.

Tambo Colonial. Lavish breakfast buffet for Bs. Try the Lake Titicaca trout with Beni almonds.

Naira. Catering mostly to travelers (and guests of the hotel—see below), but a good sampling of Bolivian dishes. Expensive.

Alo Cubano. Best place to pretend you're back in the 1950s plotting a Pan-American revolution with Fidel and Che.

Contigo Peru. Good ceviche and other seafood.

Eli's New York Deli. Try ordering with a thick New York accent and see what you get.

Sultan. Great Arabic fast food in a tiny setting. Try the falafel for Bs. 7. Order a "super" for Bs. 10 if you're hungry and be there for lunch when the boss isn't around (bigger portions).

Pizzeria Italia. Serves nice breakfasts with a friendly smile. Pizzas are not good, and also overpriced.

La Mia Pizzeria. Cheaper than "Italia" with more American style pizzas. Take-away available.

The Star of India. The highest curry house in the world! This is one of the few places you can get curry in Bolivia (and also can deliver to your hostel). Good veggie and vegan options. The curries and side dishes are mediocre at best, if you're longing for a UK style curry you'll be disappointed. They offer a free "I survived the world's most dangerous vindaloo" T-shirt to anyone who finishes it - people generally don't. Portions are small for a curry house.

Cafe Karlovy. An elegant coffee shop in the hip southern part of La Paz. Serves fantastic food all day.

Sol y Luna. Wide selection of international food, Dutch owned and operated. Excellent cocktails and always a good atmosphere. Drink Coca Leaf Mojitos where the mint is replaced by Coca Leaves - top cocktail!

Namas Te. In the heart of the city, San Pedro. Serving possibly the best homestyle vegetarian cooking with much flavour and love. Deep fried vegan patties. Fixed lunch starts midday. Music with your organic coffee, tea, and food. If you want the menú del dia, be sure to reserve it in advance by calling.

La Terraza Cafe. On el Prado. Very nice restaurant-cafe for Bolivian standards. Try the personal size pizza. The one with extra cheese, pesto, tomato and caramelized onions is to die for.

Ken Chan. Authentic Japanese food in this restaurant run by the Japanese Society in La Paz. Japanese specialties such as ramen, chicken katsu and karaage in addition to the expected sushi. Set meals with miso soup, (Japanese) rice are available.

La Coca. Choice of 3 soups and 5 main courses, at least one of each guaranteed to be vegetarian. Quiet, pleasant decor, friendly and competent staff.

Glam. The food is excellent, and the surroundings live up to the name, but you won't get much change from Bs. 400 for two people (including wine and dessert). Despite describing itself as a "jazz lounge", the resident DJ has never heard of Chet Baker, Miles Davis or John Coltrane, and seems to prefer elevator music ... though with a little prodding can be persuaded to put something more tolerable on.

Marrakech. This cosy little restaurant has amazing hummus, tajines and mint tea. Its warm and Moroccan atmosphere is a nice contrast from the cold city. Menu in English, Spanish, and Hebrew.

Paladar-Cozinha Brasileira. Traditional Brazilian cuisine. Feijoada (hot bean pot with smoked pork rib, smoked sausages, sun dried meat and bacon), moqueca de Peixe (pirarucu filet [white meat amazonian river fish] slowly cooked in coconut milk and spices). A caipirinha is the perfect cocktail for this meal or you can also have wine or beer if you aren't feeling that adventurous. Variety of grilled meats (not "rodizio" style), chicken and trout. Cozy and owned by a Brazilian and French Canadian couple.

Popular Cocina Boliviana. Lunch place serving contemporary Bolivian food: opened in late 2017 and quickly became, well, popular. Reservations are not possible, arrive around 12 to be seated with the first group, otherwise you may need to wait for a table. The menu consists of three dishes, you chose one entry, main, and dessert and get juice and bread. Some of the staff speak English and provide a lot of details about each dish and ingredients.

Café Vida. Organic vegan restaurant serving healthy, fresh meals: some Andean cuisine and some from further afield. Good for breakfast and lunch – the lunch combo includes soup, bread, hummus, a bowl, and a drink. Lots of gluten-free options. Menu in English. Wi-Fi available.

La Gabriela. Nice Chinese food with one vegetarian tofu dish and buns. Free wifi.

Cafe del Mundo. Cosy restaurant with good food, music and interior. The place is run by a Swedish-Bolivian couple. Prices not so high by European standards. Try Titicaca salad - it's huge, has fish, and is yummy.

Gustu. Modern Bolivian fine dining. Ranked by Restaurant Magazine to be one of the best restaurants in Latin America. All ingredients are sourced from within Bolivia. The staff have excellent English Try the full 8-course meal.

Drink

Try a glass of mocochinchi from street vendors.

Local law prohibits serving alcohol after 04:00. There are a number of speakeasies defying this.

Alexander The Great. Many thought the legendary Macedonian slayer had long since died. Not so in fact, although he is considerably tamer after a rough encounter with a fiery cholita.

Blueberries. This café serves very delicious coffee, and also has a very appealing breakfast menu. The café is situated at the east end of Plaza Avaroa, where you may also find an "Alexanders Coffee".

Cafe Confiteria La Paz. Free WiFi for customers

Pepe's Coffee Bar. Decent coffee and a nice calm getaway close to the tourist ghetto. Sandwiches are disappointingly small, but tasty. The "Trekker´s Breakfast" is huge and delicious.

Coffee is not a popular drink in Bolivia. If you want a sweet hot drink try api, made of corn.

Oliver's Travels. Under new management. Fun party atmosphere, and a warm welcome from English speaking staff. Also has travel. Has Wi-Fi and TV for most sporting events and a book exchange (very good, but expensive). Tour agency and great happy hour Su-Th. Wednesday nights are theme orientated with fancy dress. Available for large bookings and tour groups. Great food, the breakfast is very nice and not too overpriced compared with the other local options.

Sol Y Luna. Dutch owned & managed traveller's hangout. Good atmosphere, different areas, live music, free WiFi, large screen TV for important football games. Pool table, serve coca leaf mojitos, where coca leaves are substituted for mint leaves.

Irish. Food is overpriced but good, and the cocktails are reasonable, though not as good as some from some of the other bars. Mostly frequented by Bolivians and is of course a themed bar.

Traffic. Bar with a good atmosphere and fairly good music. There is a large dance floor and a comfortable bar. Owner Asher has taken 6 steps back from managing the place after a sting operation codenamed 'superhuey'.

Antique Pub. Recorded rock music, and all sorts of old things including fob watches, photographs, a kid's tricycle and a six shooter to keep you amused. They serve food too.

Pomp Pomp Salty Man. Known for its great clandestine happy sauces. ATM on premises.

Hard Rock Cafe. Open all week long, great parties, all kind of music. The biggest bar in Bolivia serves almost every drink there is. Full of backpackers and locals, great music and atmosphere.

BackStage. Trendy karaoke lounge with a great ambience and an amazing variety of songs both in Spanish and English. A good option if you visit the Zona Sur.

Mongo's. Since 1995 has remained one of the most popular places for travellers with a good mix of locals. It's a lively atmosphere every night of the week at this place. Serving the best in global cuisine, and well priced. Be careful, though, as many tourists (as of July 2009) have reported being duped by being charged much higher prices for drinks than listed on the menu. Check your bill carefully! Unfortunately because of its popularity with tourists, Mongos has attracted pick-pockets as of late.

Forum. Bolivian hangout and a proper disco venue, the other one is called Soundbar. Very dressed up Bolivians frequent the establishment. Worth a look if you're missing a big club with big pretensions.

La Gitana. A bar/club hangout for upper class youth of La Paz's South Zone. Dress well.

Dry Law. A pretty hip club in La Paz's rich South Zone that's slightly on the right side of pretentious. Good alternative to Mongo's or RamJam if you're sick of bumping into Gringos all the time. Dress well.

Malegria. Supposedly the best place in La Paz for performances, the one locals come to mind when asked "what else could you recommend in La Paz?"

Sleep

If you do not want to pay for a bed, you can pass a night in loco along Calle Sagarnaga or Calle Illampu. These streets are merged into fairs and museums, so are full of people all day long. Be sure to inspect your room before signing the register.

Hostel Maya. Quality, inexpensive hostel in La Paz with very friendly, helpful, bilingual staff. The terraces have a fantastic view of the city, and they're located in the best neighborhood near all the bars, museums, restaurants, and great events.

Loki Backpackers Hostel. Calle Loayza 420. Set in a beautifully restored 100 year old hotel, with an amazing bar in the old ball room. Also houses the Oxygen Bar on the 3rd floor with a rooftop terrace and BBQ area. Matrimonials, triples and twin rooms also available. Probably the worst internet connection in La Paz (and that's saying something) so take care of any online bookings or arrangements before arriving. It was raided in early June 2013 by the police looking for drugs. At least two travellers were caught and Loki's liquor license was taken away.

Hostel Pirwa La Paz. 24-hr hot showers, movies, in-house bar, attentive staff, free breakfast, free internet, pick up service, and comfortable beds.

Perla Negra Hostal. 24-hr hot showers, free pool table/ping pong/table football, free breakfast, free internet, Wi-Fi in all rooms and comfortable beds. Feels more like a hotel than a hostel

Adventure Brew Hostel and Brew Too. Bright and clean. Micro-brewery on-site, and a rooftop bar, with BBQs most nights. Just down the road is the annex: The Adventure Brew Too. there, dorm beds are Bs. 48-75, single with bath Bs. 192. Includes all-you-can-eat pancake breakfast, slow internet, Wi-Fi, a range of DVD-films and a small Saya beer. Although their internet booking engine will state they are full, they might have a bed if you call. The location is good for the bus terminal, but a bit off for other things.

Wild Rover Backpackers Hostel. Claims to be the highest Irish owned hostel/bar in the world and with a crowd to match, Wild Rover is a backpackers three blocks from Plaza Murillio in a beautiful old ex-president's house. Facilities include 24 hr reception, travel agency, backpack lockers, 24-hr gas powered hot showers, extra wide beds with specially made winter/summer duvets, fun bar with daily activities, menu with the food you miss from home, wifi and free internet, and pool table. Very popular with British/Irish backpackers. Some rooms are very noisy due to proximity of the bar, ask for a room in the back. Dorms from Bs. 40.

Inti Wasi. Cheap backpacker joint, but not as clean as you might expect. Nice staff, warm water, shared bathrooms with electrical showers, cheap laundry service, free internet and wifi as well as free use of a kitchen. Nice mix of people - especially popular with Japanese and French travellers. Occasionally full but back-up options are available in the same block, albeit not quite as good value. No lockers so valuables must be left with the office.

Bacoo Hostel. Big party hostel, guests are mostly very young. Dorms around Bs. 50 (depending on the size), 2 privates; Bs. 140-160, but very poor beds and bad shower in the privates.

Hotel la Valle. Great location, great prices (double with private bath (no TV), Bs. 90) and very friendly staff. Popular with Bolivians. Great place.

Hostal Illimani. Basic and secure accommodations with shared bath and sink in room. Ms. Filomena is the manager who keeps an eye on the place and is always happy to help. Has a courtyard and places to wash and dry clothing. Expect to pay Bs. 25 for a single. Doubles are available. It is not in the normal city central tourist area. If you want to be by the tourist stuff, do not stay here. If you want fewer gringos around this is a good place.

El Carretero. Basic. Gets a lot of artisans staying there.

Hostal Austria. Very popular with backpackers. Offering warm water, friendly staff and a central location.

Hosteria Blanquita. A nice place, with a friendly staff, offering doubles for Bs. 80, midnight curfew. Be wary of confusing billing calculations and over charging. Use your own calculator to check the totals.

Hotel Continental. Top end of Calle Illampu. Doubles with shared bath are Bs. 80. 10% discount with HI-card. Former members of Status Quo tend to use this hotel whilst in town.

Hostal Cactus. Kitchen, laundry service, lousy Nestle instant coffee maker, rooftop terrace, nice quiet street. Very popular with the pseudo-hippie types. Can be very loud outside the rooms near the employees reception area (Friday night fiesta time). Bs. 30 for privates (Bs. 10 for lentil soup).

Hotel Majestic. Splurge just a little and for Bs. 130 you get a nice comfy double (single Bs. 100) with TV (loads of movie channels) and private bathroom with hot shower. All in the heart of the backpacker area. Breakfast is also included, but isn´t great. The señora in charge is a lovely lady and will take good care of you.

Hotel Savoy. Very friendly staff, free wifi, basic breakfast (ask for more and you'll get more for free), hot showers, clean. Quiet street, though stinks a bit. Recommended!

Hotel Milton. Friendly and honest staff. Singles from Bs. They also run a travel agency and bus company for tours.

Tiquina Palace Hotel - Pasaje Tiquina 150. Good central location, nice rooms and very good hot shower. Free Wi-Fi. Doubles with 2 beds are of better quality than the ones with one bed. Rooms on the right side (if standing in front of it) have the most windows and are a bit bigger. The higher in the building the less noise from outside. Bs. 160 for a double, basic breakfast included (May 2012).

Colibri Camping. Nestled on a beautiful mountainside high above the Valley of Flowers. While away your days in a hammock, hike in the spectacular Valley of the Moon, trek to the Devil’s Molar, or enjoy horse-riding and mountain-biking and a taste of local culture and cuisine. Fully-equipped kitchen, brand new bathrooms. Campsites, cabins and teepees.

Apartment Collita. Calle 6, Los Pinos. Gorgeous, spacious and tastefully equipped apartment for 4-6 people in the Zona Sur of La Paz.

Hotel España. In the Sopocachi district close to numerous nice restaurants, the España has a charming garden courtyard and a solarium. There's a single net-connected PC in the lobby.

Hotel Gloria. Historic hotel in the center of the city with beautiful view.

Hostal Naira. In business since 1975, with a good restaurant in the basement and a popular cafe (Coffee Banais) on the ground floor.

Hotel Rosario. In the Aymara District, close to the Witches Market and many touristic attractions. Has a colonial style building with sunny patios. Free Internet and Wi-Fi. Has a travel office. Beautiful rooms. Friendly and helpful staff. Complimentary tea and mate de coca. Book ahead as it fills up.

La Posada en La Paz. Calle Hermanos Manchego 2551. Small, friendly and bilingual staff run this posada in the heart of the restaurant and pub district. Between Mongo´s and Traffic, and just steps from Mamprahon's Asian Food.

Ritz Apart Hotel. 5 stars and all suites in the heart of Sopocachi.