Tashkent.
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Overview

Tashkent (Uzbek: Toshkent or Тошкент; Russian: Ташкент) is the capital and largest city of Uzbekistan, with a population of just over 3 million in 2024. It was an ancient city on the Silk Road, the network of trading routes between China and Europe, but what you see now is mostly modern - it was wrecked by an earthquake in 1966 and rebuilt in Soviet style, with humdrum medium-raise lining interminable boulevards. It's the national transport hub and many visitors are just passing through on the way to Samarkand and Bukhara, but there's plenty of interest here to reward staying a few days.

Understand

This area is an oasis in an arid land, and from the 5th century BC a town grew up called Chach, which eventually morphed into "Tashkent", city of stone. Conditions suited settled agriculture rather than a nomadic way of life, but the nomad warlord Genghis Khan wrecked Tashkent in 1220. It recovered through trade, and there was a golden age of mosque building through the 15th century, but the medieval city was outshone by Samarkand and Bukhara. What promoted it into central Asia's greatest city was industrialisation and Russian colonisation from the 19th century.

The original town centre was west of the Chirchiq river, around Chorsu Bazaar. A Russian new town developed east of the river through the tsarist then Soviet eras, boosted during the Second World War when the USSR moved strategic industries and workforce here beyond the reach of Nazi attack. Great damage was caused by the earthquake of 26 April 1966, and the ruins were bulldozed to lay out a modern grid of long, wide boulevards.

Tashkent became the capital of Uzbekistan upon independence in 1991, and its leaders sought to create a showcase city and symbol of national identity. What has come about is a mix of the grandiose, the corporate, and the crumbling. It's impressive rather than beautiful, but never less than fascinating.

The climate is harshly continental with hot summers and cold winters. The best times to visit are Apr-May and Sep-Oct.

Talk

Russian is the lingua franca here and in all the "Stans". If you learn nothing else of it, learn the Cyrillic alphabet to make sense of business signs, menus and the like.

Uzbek is the official language, but for many here it's not their native tongue. It uses the western alphabet and (like Kazakh) is related to Turkish, but your Bodrum-Holiday-Turkish won't get you very far.

English is understood by many in the hospitality sector, especially in the pricier hotels.

Tajik is the main language of Bukhara and Samarkand, so you're likely to encounter it here. It's related to Persian / Farsi.

Get in

To town: the official taxi rank is just outside T2, ignore all touts and other offers, and if possible arrange your ride through your accommodation or Yandex Go, the Uber of the steppes. If you bought a travel e-sim for Uzbekistan before arriving, Yandex Go can freeze and not load, so you'll have to use VPN to make it work.

The bus stand is 50 m away across the parking lot, from Arrivals bear left to reach it. Buses run 06:00-22:00: buses 47, 11 (northbound) and 9 take 40 min to city centre, Bus 40 runs to the main railway station, Bus 67 to Oybek metro and then on to the central square. Bus 11 southbound goes to the domestic terminal.

By train International From Russia, Train 123 runs from Volgograd on Tuesday and Friday, taking almost 60 hours. It also stops in Qarshi and Samarkand but you can't ride it just for the Uzbek sector. The return train 124 departs Tu Sa towards midnight. Train 306 from Samara runs F Su taking 48 hours. Direct trains run from Moscow and from Novosibirsk about once in a blue moon.

From Almaty in Kazakhstan, Train 001 runs on even dates taking 18 hours, returning as Train 002 on odd dates at a tedious 04:30. Since covid, no trains cross the Kazakh-Chinese border; you have to trek away north via Petropavl or Novosibirsk to join the Trans-Siberian railway.

From Dushanbe in Tajikistan, Train 3013 runs on Monday taking 18 hours, and returns on Tuesday. You can also join the trains towards Volgograd and change to a domestic train in Qarshi.

From Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan take the weekly train towards Volgograd and change at Taraz in Kazakhstan, where you may need an overnight stop.

From Turkmenistan cross the border at Olot and pick up a domestic train there. Similarly from Afghanistan cross to Termez.

Domestic Afrosiob and Sharq fast trains run from Bukhara four times a day, taking 4 hr 30 min via Samarkand.

Slower trains run from Urgench and Khiva via Bukhara and Samarkand, and altogether there are 8 trains a day from Samarkand.

Fast trains also link Qarshi (once a day, 4 hours) and Shahrisabz (once on Sunday, 5 hours).

From Ferghana, trains take approximately 5 hours and leave several times a day.

Buying tickets See Uzbekistan#Get around, but in short, do as much online in advance as possible. Fast trains often sell out, and stations lack info and have chaotic queues.

Shared taxis supplement the buses for inter-city journeys. They wait at the main railway station and the bus station and set off whenever they have enough passengers to make the drive profitable.

By road The main roads are in reasonable condition and most driving behaviour is sane, this isn't the Middle East.

From Almaty in Kazakhstan is 810 km, Ashgabat in Turkmenistan is 1290 km, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan is 570 km, and Kashgar in China is 880 km. On these international routes you must factor in the opening hours of the border post, tailbacks to reach it, and whatever tedious inspection procedures are in force - see Uzbekistan#Get in.

Domestic routes are from Andijan 392 km, Bokhara 600 km, Ferghana 325 km, Karshi 430 km, Khiva 1045 km, Kokand 236 km, Nukus 1115 km, Samarkand 295 km, Termez 705 km and Urgench 1020 km. The main road from Samarkand and beyond crosses a knuckle of Kazakhstan, but this is treated as "no man's land" with no border procedures.

Get around

By metro The Metro is fast, safe and inexpensive. It's the obvious way to get downtown from the main railway station but doesn't reach the airport or bus terminal. Opened in 1977, it's a typical Soviet-era network with large, richly themed stations, for example Kosmonavtlar celebrates Uzbekistan's contribution to the Soviet space programme. The Metro has four lines: Chilonzor (red) from Buyuk Ipak Yoli north to downtown and Chinor south. Oʻzbekiston (blue) from Beruniy northwest to downtown, the main railway station and Doʻstlik southeast. Yunus-Obod (green) from Turkiston north to downtown and Ming O'rek south. Extension towards the airport has stalled. Circle Line (gold) from Texnopark (north) to Qipchoq (south). It's incomplete and not a circle, but spans between the south termini of the blue and red lines.

There are three downtown interchanges, all involving a walk through connecting subways: Amir Temur Hiyoboni (red) with Yunus Rajabiy (green), Alisher Navoiy (green) with Paxtakor (red), and Oybek (blue) with Ming Oʻrik (green). Circle Line interchanges are Texnopark with Doʻstlik (blue) and Qipchoq with Chinor (red).

Trains run ever 3-10 minutes until 23:30. A paper ticket with a QR-code is, as of January 2025, 3000 som from the cashier at the stations, by cash or card. Alternately, ATTO or major credit cards work at the gates.

By bus The main downtown public transport is the bus - these are lime green, and their destination boards alternate between Russian and Uzbek. The trams were scrapped in 2016, those battle-scarred behemoths of the boulevards, with some tramways converted into bus lanes.

Probably the simplest way to plan a journey is to type "yandex bus map tashkent" into your browser. This brings up a live map of buses crawling around the city, as if in a video game, whereupon you zoom onto your start location or destination. Say you're at the airport international terminal, you might see Bus 11 in the vicinity - click on the icon and its route is revealed, north downtown through the government quarter (probably what you want) then away northwest via Chorsu Bazaar. Southbound it's heading to the domestic terminal T3.

The bus system is cashless. You can pay with major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard). If credit cards don't suit you, you can get an ATTO transport card from a post office or metro cashier.

Marshrutkas also ply around the city but are more expensive, around 3000 som is standard. Routes and schedules can be found from Easyway journey planner.

Best way to hire a taxi is via your hotel reception, as these will be honest, metered and understand where you want to go. If you bought a travel e-sim for Uzbekistan before arriving, Yandex Go can freeze and not load, so you'll have to use VPN to make it work.

Unless you want to pay a ridiculous fee like 700,000 som for some reason, avoid accepting a taxi ride from the touts at the airport. Best to get a YandexGo, but unfortunately Tashkent Airport seems to be the only international airport on the planet that doesn't sell simcards, which will make using the app tricky.

You need basic Russian or Uzbek to accomplish this, and the driver may struggle to understand where you're heading, as street names have changed so often. Every official site warns against using these rides, and obviously there's a risk that he'll abduct you and sell your kidneys, but mostly they're safe.

Asking them to desist only results in dark looks, it's their car dammit.

By scooter You can find a vast network of various scooters (samokats) spread around the town, which you can rent using their respective applications, and easily travel around the city with them, for example to/from metro stations to your accommodation. If you know Bolt scooters in Europe, that's the same thing.

The most famous one is Yandex Go (yellow colored) and there are also different local brands.

By car You're unlikely to use a car within Tashkent, and you'd have to consider proximity and security of parking lots. If you're in Tashkent for a few days then touring the country, use public transport in the city then return to the airport to pick up a hire car; the major international companies are based there. Some dozen mostly local firms have downtown bases.

Tashkent is a low- to medium-rise sprawl and distances are considerable. Amir Temur Square and the Government quarter are walkable, but for instance it's 4 km out to the TV tower and 6 km to Chorsu Bazaar. If you're keen to stretch your legs (which will help you adjust to the time zone), then maybe take the Metro out to see the sights afresh then hike back.

See

Ten modernist buildings in and near Tashkent were listed as a in 2026: Zhemchug Residential Building, State Museum of History, Central Exhibition Hall of the Academy of Arts, Kosmonavtlar Metro Station, Big Solar Furnace (Sun Heliocomplex) a bit east of the city, Peoples' Friendship Palace, State Museum of Arts, State Circus, Chorsu Bazaar, and the Alisher Navoi Cinema Palace.

This refers to the area west of the river around Chorsu Bazaar which has the oldest buildings, but much of it is modern, with boulevards seething with traffic. The little higgledy-piggledy streets further north still have something of an old town ambience, but the developers are laying waste to them with a vigour worthy of Genghis Khan. is a collection of religious buildings 2 km north of city centre (Metro Gafur Gulom). It was assembled piecemeal from the 16th to 21st centuries, so although it's impressive, it doesn't have the unity or geometry of (for instance) the Registan of Samarkand, and it's transected by the wide pedestrian mall of Zarkaynar Street. The complex is free to enter daily 09:00-21:00, but individual buildings have their own admission. Barak-Khan Madrasah is west side of the complex, built in 1532. It contains two mausoleums: of Suyunchxoʻjaxon the first Shaybanid ruler of Tashkent, and the "nameless" mausoleum intended for Barakh-Khan or Baroqxun, but he's buried in Samarkand. Tellya Sheikh Mosque south side of the complex was built from 1890 to 1902.

Moyi Mubarek Madrasah. This building of 1857 houses the world's oldest Quran, written 644/648 AD (23-27 AH).

Hazrati Imam Jome Mosque east side of the complex was built in 2007 in traditional style. Mausoleum of Abu Bakr Muhammad Qaffol Shoshiy is in the northwest corner of the complex. Qaffol Shoshiy was a scholar and holy man who died in 976 AD: "Qaffol" means locksmith, yet another of his skills. The original tomb didn't survive and was replaced by this mausoleum in 1542. Namazgokh Mosque north side of the complex was built in 1850s. It's now part of the adjacent Islamic Institute. Imam Al Bukhari Islamic Institute northeast edge of the complex is an active madrasah opened in 1971. It's a humdrum modern building, no tourist visits. Islamic Civilisation Center is a brand new museum, a grand building south of Khazret Imam. It opened in March 2026. 2-hour guided tour only (English, Russian or Uzbek). Just south of it, still under construction but free to walk through (as of March 2026), there is a fake "neighborhood" apparently meant to be an exhibit on what a city was like in centuries past. Eshon Guzar or Oxunguzar is the name of three mosques in Tashkent and a suburb to the southwest. The one worth looking for is the mosque at the south end of Karasaray St, if you walked from Metro Gafur Gulom towards the Khazret Imam Complex: it's a distinctive redbrick design.

Kukeldash Madrasah. This yellow-brick madrasah was built in 1570 by the vizier, scientist and poet Kulbobo Kukeldash - Kukeldash means "the Khan's foster brother'. It's been a caravanserai, fort and museum but since the 1990s is again a madrasah. It's ranged around a large courtyard with hujras (pupils' cells) and darshakona and mosque in the corners.

Dzhuma Mosque or Khoja Ahror Valiy Mosque is next to Kukeldash Madrasah, prominent on raised ground. It was built in 1451. is a small burial complex; in Soviet times the name applied to a whole city district. It's free to enter daily 09:00-16:00, from its east side off Abdulla Qodiriy (Metro Alisher Navoiy or Paxtakor). The complex was wrecked in the 1966 earthquake and only 3 of its 16 monuments survived. Sheihantaur Mausoleum inters the 13th century Sheikh Hovendi at-Tahur. It was built in the 14th century but much altered since. Khavendi Takhur Sheikh Mausoleum a few metres south was built in the 14th century, but re-built in the 18th and 19th. It's plain within. Kaldyrgach-biy Mausoleum is a few metres north: its pyramidal dome invokes the tents of the Kazakh steppes. Kaldyrgach (meaning "swallow", the bird) was a 15th century ruler. However that was also the nickname of 17th-18th century statesman Tole-biy (further commemorated by interminable boulevards in Tashkent and beyond), and it's unclear whether he too is buried here. Yunus Khan Mausoleum 100 m west was part of the complex but is now within the grounds of the Islamic University and seldom accessible to others. You could try looking academic and strolling in off Navoi. Yunus Khan (1415-1487) was a descendant of Gengiz Khan and grandfather of the Indian moghul Babur. He's not buried here, his resting place is unknown, so the mausoleum was presumably erected in his lifetime.

Abdulkasim Madrassa. This madrassa was erected in 1850 in honour of the scholar Abdulkhasim Khan. It's now a crafts outlet.

Legislative Chamber of the Supreme Assembly is the imposing modern building just south of Abdulkasim Madrassa. Since 2005 the parliament (Oliy Majlis) of Uzbekistan is bicameral, and the lower or legislative chamber seats 150 elected deputies. No admittance except on business. The Senate or upper chamber is on Mustakillik Maydoni, Independence Square.

Kukcha Mosque. Huge mosque rebuilt in the 1990s. In the garden behind is the mausoleum of Sheikh Zayniddin, a Sufi holy man. He lived in the 12th-13th centuries but the mausoleum is 16th century, rebuilt in the 19th.

Holy Assumption Cathedral. Russian Orthodox cathedral built in 1871. It was closed down by the Soviets but restored in 1945, and enlarged in the 1990s with the bell tower rebuilt in 2010.

is a dinky Orthodox funeral chapel within Botkin cemetery, built 1904.

Evangelical Lutheran Church. Built in 1899 to serve the city's German community. Under the communists it was variously a warehouse, opera studio and concert hall, then re-consecrated in the 1990s. It is not open to the public except for attending services.

Sacred Heart Cathedral. Roman Catholic church first built as a chapel for Polish prisoners of war in 1884. A larger church took shape from 1912 but was suppressed by the Bolsheviks. In the 1930s the parish priest held secret masses here, hiding in plain sight, until the communists had him shot. It had a series of secular uses and became derelict, but was re-built from 1993, re-consecrated in 2000 and promoted to cathedral in 2005.

Mirzo-Yusuf Mosque. Built in the 1880s, this is large and tranquil but fairly plain.

Minor Mosque. Grand mosque in gleaming white marble, built in 2013/4 in traditional style. "Minor" means minarets but the mosque is named for its neighbourhood of that name.

State Museum of the Temurids. Timur (1336 – 1405) was the brutal and brilliant nomad warrior who united much of central Asia under his rule and laid waste far beyond. He was badly injured while livestock-rustling in childhood, hence his western name of Tamerlane, Timur the lame. When Uzbekistan became independent in 1991 its rulers sought a national cultural narrative and legitimacy, and fastened upon Timur. This grand building opened in 1996 is as much a shrine and political statement as a museum.

Tashkent Polytechnic Museum. This mostly displays antique and Soviet-era cars.

Museum of Applied Arts. Charming small museum of traditional arts and crafts, in a 19th-century merchant's mansion.

Art Gallery of Uzbekistan. Exhibitions of contemporary Uzbek artists in a modern building. Overpriced for what you get.

State Museum of Arts. Large collection of Russian and European art, many depicting Uzbek people and their lifestyle and antiquities. The previous curator should be out of jail by now, he served a long sentence for selling the works on the black market and replacing them with copies. No info on the length of the temporary closure, which is possibly to stop him having another go.

State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan. The first floor is a small exhibition area, the second covers from the Stone Age to the takeover by the Soviet Union, and the third is dedicated to independent Uzbekistan from 1990. Signage is in Uzbek, Russian and English, but patchy and dimly lit. The museum has been closed for refurbishment since June 2024 with no word on timescale.

Alisher Navoy Public Museum of Literature. Ali-Shir Nava'i or Alisher Navoi (1441-1501) was an administrator, poet and prolific author who wrote in Turkic (predecessor to a family of languages that includes Uzbek) and proclaimed its superiority over Persian the official language. He lived mostly in Herat (now in Afghanistan) but became a cultural hero across the entire Turkic world, with dozens of statues, draughty boulevards and institutes nowadays named after him. This museum displays manuscripts and artworks.

Old TV Tower stands immediately south of the Alisher Navoy Museum. In 1981 it was superseded by the new tower, below. Museum of Celebrities is a waxworks gallery in City Park, 200 m west of Alisher Novoi / Paxtakor Metro stations. It's open daily 11:00-23:00.

Hirayama Ikuo Cultural Caravanserai. Ikuo Hirayama (平山 郁夫, 1930-2009) painted dreamy scenes of the Silk Road across central Asia. His legacy funded this exhibition space for contemporary Uzbek art, his own work isn't displayed here.

Museum of Telecommunication of Uzbekistan. Extensive display of equipment, much of it in working order, with signage in English, Russian and Uzbek.

House of Photography. Changing art exhibitions, not necessarily photos.

Ming O'rik Museum. Ming O'rik means "thousand apricot trees" and was groves and hillocks until flattened for 19th century city expansion. Here they stumbled upon the remains of an adobe village from 5th century AD. Take the bus along Amir Temur towards the railway station and don't head for Ming O'rik Metro, which is 1 km west.

Railway Museum. Soviet locos and rolling stock from 1940-60s that you can clamber aboard. W-Su they may have a loco moving. No signage on when and how these trains were deployed.

Museum of Victims of Repressions. Within the Memorial Park, this documents those killed by the Soviets and is silent on post-independence repression. No English signage so you can't read the stories of the individuals shown.

is where the great warlord checks his horse to greet his troops. A bust of Karl Marx occupied the spot in Soviet times. The square is a leafy quiet place amidst the swirling traffic, and the police don't allow hawkers or beggars. Metro Amir Temur Hiyoboni (red line) is 200 m east, with Yunus Rajabiy (green line) another 100 m north. Tashkent Chimes is the marketing name for the twin clocktowers south side of Amir Temur Square, looking like they should bookend an Ottoman railway station. The old (west) tower was built in 1947 and now houses a restaurant, the new (east) tower was added in 2009. Palace of International Forums is a great modern slab between the clocktowers and Hotel Uzbekistan, mostly used as a concert hall. means Independence Square. Laid out from 1991 (when Lenin was toppled from his plinth and "cancelled" as a place-name) it's more like a chequerboard of linked squares, parks and monuments, lined by government buildings. Lenin was replaced by a golden globe, and a statue symbolising motherhood was later added. Just north are monuments to the country's war losses. on Sharof Rashidov is a Stakhanovite statue celebrating the people's resilience after the city was pulverised by the earthquake of 26 April 1966.

Bonum Factum. Small gallery with exhibitions and sales.

Tashkent TV Tower. Oh-so-Seventies structure looking like the offspring of a triffid with a moon shot, this 375 m tower beams radio and TV to all parts of the country. The observation deck is at 97 m, and the restaurant at 110 m lurches part-way round then backtracks. Long lines at weekends, book online if feasible, and bring your passport.

Oqsaroy Presidential Palace. This cod-classical bling mansion was the residence of the country's first President, Islam Karimov (1938-2016). He was an engineer who worked his way up the communist hierarchy and then upon independence ran a regime every bit as brutal and oppressive. He was re-elected again and again by rigged ballots. The mansion is now government offices, no visits, but is flanked by a small museum to his glory open Tu-Su.

Magic Aquarium. Large walk-through aquarium with a variety of habitats and the obligatory shark.

Tashkent Botanical Garden. Tranquil wooded garden over 66 hectares, the autumn colours are glorious.

Tashkent Zoo. 100 year-old zoo, cramped by today's standards.

Oqtepa Yunusobod. Ancient settlement on a mound protected by a moat. The structures are mud brick so they're crumbly and subsiding.

has sections of German and Japanese war graves. Many prisoners of war were held in the city after their defeat in World War II, used as labour and as political bargaining chips. They were less than popular in the USSR, but cemetery custodian Mirokil Fozilov took scrupulous care of their graves over decades. It's on Sodiq Miraxmedov southeast of the centre, 2 km south of Metro Mirzo Ulugbek: enter via the north gate, then the war graves are 500 m south. The graves are simple slabs.

Zengi-Ata. Mosque, madressah and burial place of 13th century Sheikh Aj-Hodzha, nicknamed Zengi-Ata meaning black.

Do

National Library of Uzbekistan is a pseudo-classical building at Navoi 1 in the government quarter (Metro Mustakillik maydoni). It has a comprehensive stock, but you have to register (in Uzbek) to get in.

Alisher Navoiy Park. Large popular park with fairground and artificial lake.

Do’stlik Recreation Park. Pleasant park with a boating lake.

Aqua Park. Water park 500 m south of TV tower with several pools, wave machine, water chutes and slides. There's a restaurant and bars within.

Japanese Garden. Small and overpriced for a few rocks and cherry blossoms.

Tashkentland is a kiddy theme park east across the pond from Japanese Garden. Free to enter daily 10:00-21:00, you pay individually for rides.

Mirzo Ulugbek Recreation Park. Leafy park with boating pond and small funfair.

Anhor Lokomotiv is a funfair and amusement park at Shaykhontohur 28, 200 m north of Navruz Park. It's open daily 10:00-23:00.

Football: Uzbekistan is part of the Asian Football Confederation, and the men's national soccer team play at Milliy Stadium. Tashkent has three clubs in Super League, the top tier, so you'll always find a match in town during the March-Nov season.

FC Bunyodkor. They play in Super League at Milliy Stadium (capacity 34,000), 5 km southwest of city centre.

FC Pakhtakor. They too play in Super League, and often win it. Pakhtakor Stadium (capacity 35,000, all-seater) is also used for junior internationals such as U21. It's very central, barely 500 m west of Independence Square.

FC Olympic. They too play in Super League. The stadium (capacity 8500) is part of a multi-sports complex sprawling over 1 km x 0.5 km.

Alisher Navoi Theatre. Neoclassical 1940s structure, built by Japanese prisoners of war.

Russian Drama Theatre. No online ticket sales, you have to go to the Box Office.

Friendship of the Nations Palace or Istiklol Palace is a concert hall on Bunyodkor (Metro Xalqlar Do'stligi), 200 m north of Abdulkasim Sheikh Madrasah. It was built in 1980 and the name acknowledges international assistance after the earthquake of 1966. The style is described as Brutalist, but it looks to be wearing petticoats, and those nozzles around the sofits suggest a shampoo production line.

Ilkhom Theatre. Progressive theatre, performances are in Russian.

Musical Comedy Theatre. Most shows are for kids.

Uzbek National Academic Drama Theatre. Lively theatre.

State Circus. Still putting on trad shows in a 1976 futuristic building.

City Planetarium. This is sad and run down, as it's set in the former Abdulla Kadiri Recreation Park, which has closed for re-development.

Turkiston Concert Hall. Concert hall in a modern Soviet confection, reasonable facilities, events inexpensive by western standards.

State Puppet Theatre (O'zbek Davlat Respublika Qo'g'irchoqlar Teatri) is on Afrosiyob (Metro Kosmonavtlar) next to the Presidential Palace, the Karimov mansion. It's unwise to muse aloud about this juxtaposition.

Youth Theatre. Grand Soviet building, uncomfortable seats, but a lively company.

Buy

In theory it's illegal to exchange money outside of official currency exchanges. But try to find one? Use ATMs to withdraw local money: these are widespread, mostly accept foreign debit or credit cards, and charge minimal mark-up though your own bank will pile it on. Most large businesses accept card payment and US dollar cash, but seldom other foreign currencies. So if you came with a wad of euros or UK pounds, you might struggle to buy a bus ticket or kebab.

Nothing at the main railway or bus stations. Asaka Bank main branch is at Furqat 9, 100 m south of the Navoi flyover, open M-F 09:00-18:00. They have three others. National Bank of Uzbekistan (NBU) have exchanges at their branches at Abdulla Kadiry 1 and at Amur Temir 101. Uzpromstroybank is at Pahlavon Mahmud 3, two km east of Amur Temir Square. Tashkent City Mall has banks in the lower level that change US dollars and euros.

Bazaars Locals do most of their shopping in bazaars, which have a fabulous range of daily necessities, colourful spices and herbs, fresh food, textiles and clothing, IT and tat. Their practical importance makes them into secondary transport hubs.

Chorsu Bazaar. The biggest, best and oldest bazaar in Central Asia, trading here for over 2000 years. The stalls are under seven tiled domes. Beneath the largest dome are spices, fruit and veg, while the smaller domes house craft workshops, for jewelry, fancy wear, pottery and carpets. South side by Beruni Ave is a food court, lined by sheep's heads staring reproachfully through a fug of charcoal brazier smoke.

Alay Bazaar. Beautifully laid out displays of local produce, dried fruit and nuts. It's close to tourist hotels so they're quick to inflate prices if you look touristy.

Farkhad Bazaar. Large fresh produce market in a modern building.

Abu Sakhiy. Busy mall in modern buildings, merging into Chilonzor shopping centre.

Parkent Bazaar. Large covered market.

Yunusobod Bazaar. Large covered market

Mirabad Bazaar is at the corner of Nukus and Mirabad 200 m west of Cathedral of the Assumption, open daily 07:00-20:00. Saligokh Street, known locally as Broadway, is a flea market extending west from Amir Temur Square.

Stores and malls The difference between bazaars and malls is blurring as traditional trading places move into modern premises.

Central Department Store. Little changed since it was a Soviet GUM store, this has fair prices for souvenirs.

Turkuaz Chorsu. In a plain building a block south of Chorsu bazaar.

Poytakht Shopping Center. Small collection of independent retailers.

Universam Yunusabad. Department store with a wide selection.

Tashkent City Mall. Opened in March 2024, this is the largest shopping mall in Uzbekistan. It has the major international brands.

Rakhimov Ceramics Studio. Ceramic studio with pricey but attractive wares.

Human House. Well-stocked souvenir shop with a range of quality crafts.

Orient House. Up-market souvenir shop

Eat

Bravissimo. Coffee shop with cakes and local food.

Cafe Bukhara. Relaxed cafe near the concert hall and government quarter.

Besh Qozon. Busy, somewhat chaotic place but it serves great plov. Far better value than the restaurant in the TV tower.

Ariston Park. Acceptable place by the park.

Caravan. Good reviews for their trad Uzbek food.

Jumanji. Big portions of high quality central Asian, Chinese and European food.

Zaytoon is a good Afghan restaurant 100 m further up the street, at Rakatboshi 85.

Bella Napoli. Cosy chain pizzeria serving the usual Italian staples.

Pro.Khinkali. Good Georgian restaurant.

Shashleek. Family-friendly chain restaurant by the eco-park.

Drink

Tea (choy, чай) fuels Central Asia the way gasoline fuels Texas. It's usually taken black, without milk. Tap water safety is not guaranteed, drink bottled. Beware that ice (eg for drinks) is probably from unboiled tap water. Kuratny is the pricy bar, nightclub and shisha cafe within The Chimes on Amir Temur Square, open daily 13:00-03:00. Scandalist is a cocktail bar at Istiqbol 8, open Su-Th 12:00-01:00, F Sa 12:00-03:00. The Irish Pub at Taras Shevchenko 30 (by Ming O'rik Metro) smells like an authentic pre-1980s Irish boozer, heavy with cigarette smoke. It's open daily 12:00-00:00. Bier Regen is a microbrewery at Taraqqiyot 67 near Ashxobod Park, open daily 12:00-23:30.

Ye Old Chelsea Arms. "Ye Old" is the warning that this is overpriced and not remotely like a London pub, but aiming for how they think the punters would imagine one.

Pelican. This is primarily a beer store with a few tables where you can sit and drink.

Sleep

Gulnara Guesthouse. Pleasant small guesthouse by Chorsu Bazaar.

Jahongir B&B. Welcoming small guesthouse in the suburbs.

Orzu Hotel. Friendly small hotel with 34 rooms.

Asia Tashkent Hotel. Maintenance needed, but overall comfy enough. With pool and sauna. Some noise from street and nightclub.

Oasis Asaka Hotel. Hotel in a quiet area, adequate for what you pay.

Retro Palace. Adequate place in a quiet area.

Shodlik Palace Hotel. Trad Soviet-era hotel showing its age.

Uzbekistan Hotel. Great Soviet slab, a piece of city history, slowly getting a makeover. Very central, mostly good reviews, though the aircon struggles on hot days. Their website is only in Uzbek and Russian, and they don't respond to enquiries in English.

Hotel City Palace. Mostly good reviews, some facilities tired.

Wyndham Hotel. Mixed reviews for comfort and service.

Grand Mir Hotel. Business hotel, mixed reviews for comfort and cleanliness.

Le Grande Plaza Hotel. Comfy and central but poor service and cuisine.

Hotel Ichan Qala. Pleasant hotel around a courtyard and pool.

Ramada Tashkent. Friendly hotel with Indian restaurant, most rooms spacious but others poky.

International Hotel Tashkent. Modern hotel near Expo, mostly good scores for comfort and service, some gripes with over-zealous security.

Radisson Blu Hotel. Efficient central chain hotel.

Lotte City Tashkent Palace Hotel. Korean-owned, clean, comfy and central, good food.