Samarkand.
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Overview

Samarkand is the city that is the bejewelled crown of the Silk Road, a rhapsody of ornate Islamic architecture with turquoise domes and soaring tiled minarets. It's one of the twin pillars of the Samarkand through Bukhara region of Uzbekistan, and a must-see destination. With a population of 585,000 in 2024 and as many again in the broader metropolis, much of Samarkand is blandly modern, but its extensive Old Town has been well-preserved, and inscribed as a .

Understand

The name "Samarkand" is said to derive from words meaning "stone fort", but there are about as many other names and claimed origins as there were varieties of goods traded in its bazaars - some of them of dubious value, far from being genuine silk. Stone fort? - it was sun-baked mud, adobe as it's called in the west, and whoever reckoned it would repel invaders was sold a dud.

This area has been inhabited for millennia, but the first entity that could be called a town was about the 8th century BC. It grew into a citadel protected by stout mud-brick walls on the site now known as Afrosiab (though that name is relatively modern). Not stout enough however, as it was conquered again and again, notably by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE bringing in a Hellenistic period, by the Sogdians in the 7th century AD, and by the Arabs in the 8th who made it a great centre of Islamic culture. Samarkand was destroyed by the Mongol ruler Genghis Khan in 1220, but flourished again when Timur-i-Leng (known as Tamerlane in the West) adorned it as the capital of his empire from 1369. Its glory days followed as a trade centre on the Silk Road, the great plexus of overland trading routes between China and the Mediterranean region, and the magnificent buildings you come here to see were mostly erected in that heyday.

That empire weakened, and nomadic Uzbeks (Shaybanids) took Samarkand in 1500. Over the next century the entire Silk Road declined, when western merchants became able to sail to and from China and no longer risked the perils and hardships of the overland route. In 1784 the emirate of Bukhara conquered it, and by this time western nations were trying to muscle in on the orient. Britain got the upper hand by sea, gaining India, while tsarist Russia tightened its grip inland; neither could ever subdue Afghanistan. Russia captured Samarkand in 1868, bringing railways, industry and their language and culture. Under communism from 1924, Samarkand was the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic, until that role passed to Tashkent in 1930.

Stalin was paranoid that the peoples of Central Asia would rebel and slay him, as they would have, given half a chance. His grand scheme was to create five Soviet Socialist Republics cutting across ethnic and linguistic boundaries, so they would feud against each other and not unite against him. Thus the large chunk of Tajik territory containing Samarkand and Bukhara, and speaking a language akin to Persian, was assigned to Uzbekistan, where the majority spoke a language akin to Turkish. And it worked: those cockamamie borders stand a century later, and Russian is the lingua franca for all the "Stans".

It was not difficult for foreigners to visit in the days of the Soviet Union, so long as they joined an approved Intourist group and admired what they were scheduled to admire. When that empire collapsed, the first leader of independent Uzbekistan was Islam Karimov, an old-style hardline communist and isolationist, who restricted travel and much else. A thaw ensued after his death in 2016, and the country became tourist-friendly - they needed the income. Most visitors still arrive in tour groups but the entire country is easy to visit independently, especially its twin jewels of Samarkand and Bukhara.

The Tourist Information Centre is on Tashkentskaya, 200 m south of Bibi-Khanym Mosque, open daily 10:00-17:00.

Get in

By train Four trains a day run from Tashkent Central, taking about four hours - quickest is the "Afrosiob". Two more run from Tashkent Janubiy (South), less convenient for most travellers. Trains continue west to Navoi, Bukhara (2½ hr), Alat on the Turkmenistan border, Urgench, Khiva, Nukus and Kungrad, and south to Qarshi and Termez on the Afghan border. One train per week is from Volgograd (with connections from Moscow and St Petersburg), via Atyrau in Kazakhstan, then Kungrad, Nukus, Urgench, Bukhara and Navoi, continuing from Samarkand to Tashkent.

These trains may sell out, see Uzbekistan#Get in for how to book.

(Вокзал Самарканд) is clean and modern. The station doesn't have much retail, but there's a shopping centre and market 200 m south at the corner of Berumi and Rudakhi, open daily 05:00-22:00. In Uzbek, Tajik and Russian, it is called "vokzal".

By road Samarkand is 290 km southwest of Tashkent, about four hours to drive; buses and shared taxis leave from Sobir Rahimov bus station. Follow M39 via Jizzah: this crosses a corner of Kazakhstan, which is treated as no-man's-land with no passport checks but keep yours handy. From Bukhara is 270 km by M37.

Get around

The main sights of Samarkand are in two nearby clusters: Gur-i Amir and the Registan, and Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Shah-i Zinda, and Afrosiyab. It's simplest to walk between all of these. Take a bus or taxi for sights further out, such as Ulugh-Beg Observatory 2 km beyond Afrosiyab.

There are two tram lines from the railway station. T2 is the one you want, heading southeast to Siyob Bazaar about 1 km north of the Registan. T1 goes south to Sartepa and is always about 5 km west of the main sights.

Yellow taxis can be taken all over. Yandex Taxi app works well in the city center and will offer you a variety of prices.

Marshrukas - white city minibuses - are tired, wheezy and crowded.

See

Registan. This magnificent square is the defining image, not only of Samarkand but of the whole Silk Road. It became the city's main square from the 15th century, Timurid times, after Afrosiab was abandoned. It's lined by three madrasahs, all with grand portals and richly adorned. Ulugbek on the west side is the oldest madrasah, from 1417; its upper floor has been lost. Shirdor facing it on the east side was built from 1619; "Shir" means tiger, from the motif on its portal. Tilya-Kori on the north side was built from 1646 and was also the grand mosque; the name means "gilded". Each madrasah is set around a courtyard, with student lodgings and classrooms.

Shaybanid Mausoleum is in the small park next to Tilya-Kori Madrasah, free to access. Muhammad Shaybani (1451-1510) ousted the Timurids from Samarkand and established an Uzbek proto-state, but it did not outlast his death in battle.

Bibi-Khanym Mosque. Named after the principal wife of Timur, this was erected after his capture of Delhi in 1399. But design was muddled and construction rushed, so for the next 150 years it had to be patched and mended as bits fell off, until it was given up as a lost cause. It actually stood for another 200 years before collapsing in 1897. It was rebuilt from 1974.

Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum opposite the mosque is the resting place of Saray Mulk Khanym (1341-1408). She had been a member of the harem of Amir Husayn of Balkh, but Timur defeated and slew him, and took over the harem. Same hours and prices as the mosque, which most visitors reckon is not worth the money and you see enough from outside. Siyob Bazaar is just north of the mosque, see Buy. Use the footbridge to cross Shah-i-Zinda to reach Khazrat Khizr.

Khazrat-Khizr Mosque. This was built from 1855 over much earlier foundations: first was a Zoroastrian temple, then a mosque built in 712 but destroyed in Genghis Khan's invasion of 1220. Since 2018 it's also held the mausoleum of Islam Karimov (1938-2016), First President of Uzbekistan.

Shah-i-Zinda Ensemble. Necropolis ranged over a small hill south of Afrosiab, named for the cousin of the Prophet Muhammad. The best structures are 14th-16th century, such as the Kusam-ibn-Abbas complex, the Turkan Ago Mausoleum, and Kazi Zade Rumi mausoleum. It remained in use into the 19th century. It can feel crowded, as the area you can visit is along a staircase thronged with tour groups.

Afrosiab. This was the earlier site of Samarkand, occupied from 500 BC until 1220 AD when the Mongols smashed it. It's within a triangle of mud-brick walls, each over 1 km long, and most of it is a bare vista of ditches and hummocks. The museum displays murals, ceramics and other artifacts recovered from the site.

Tomb of Prophet Daniel. The Prophet Daniel is a mythical figure, and the Biblical Book of Daniel is thought to be a jibe against Antiochus IV Epiphanes, who persecuted the Jews in the 2nd century BC - with just enough disguise for its authors to escape imperial wrath. Six cities claim to have Daniel's tomb, and pride of place goes to Susa in Iran. The Samarkand tomb and shrine is along the north wall of Afrosiab but outside that ticketed area.

Gur-e-Emir Mausoleum. The warlord Timur or Tamerlane (c 1320-1405) preferred to campaign in spring / summer and lay up during the cruel steppes winter. On his last sortie, already in his eighties, in a hurry to attack Ming China, he sickened and died at Farab (nowadays Otrar), to no great sorrow by the Chinese ambassadors he'd imprisoned. It was impossible to transport him through the snow to the tomb he'd prepared at Shahrisabz, so he was laid here, in the tomb intended for his grandson who'd died of battle wounds in Turkey in 1403. Both bodies were reburied in 1409, as it became the Timurid dynastic crypt. The mausoleum is richly tiled and decorated: the piece of jade over Timur's headstone, the largest in the world, is a poke in the eye of the Emperor of China, since it was purloined from his palace.

Rukhabad Mausoleum. Burial place of the Sufi teacher Burkhan ad-Din Sagardji, who died in the 1380s. It became engulfed by later buildings around Gur-e-Emir, which were cleared away in 1996 so the mausoleum complex was rediscovered and rebuilt.

Ulughbek's Observatory. Ulughbek (1394 – 1449) was grandson of Timur, and at age 16 he was appointed governor of Samarkand. A cultured talented fellow, he built the Ulughbek Madressa in Registan, and then this observatory. Astronomy in that era was by naked eye, but you could improve observation with a big sighting-line, and he built a whopper, the Fakhri sextant of radius of 36 m. He catalogued over 1000 stars and computed the earth's rotations and tilt with unprecedented accuracy. Meanwhile his 13 wives were busy discussing his shortcomings, the region rebelled, and he was defeated in battle by his oldest son Abdal-Latif Mirza. He was graciously permitted to leave for pilgrimage to Mecca, but Abdal-Latif made sure he didn't get far. The observatory was destroyed at the same time, and its underground portion was only re-discovered in 1908.

Imami A'zam Grand Mosque. One of the largest active mosques in Samarkand. The mosque building was rebuilt from yellow stone, and the domes are dark turquoise.

Namazgah Grand Mosque. An old but still active large mosque built in the 17th century. The exterior decoration is minimalistic, as the colorful tiles have been lost. It was built with funds from Nadir Divanbegi, a high-ranking official in Bukhara. The name of the mosque is translated as a "place for namaz (praying)".

Khoja Is'haqi Vali Mosque. The mosque is named after a famous theologian who lived and was buried in this area (there is a cemetery in the back). It has a beautiful hall.

Galaasiya Mosque. The mosque is named after the neighborhood, which is known as the birthplace of the famous Samarkand bread.

Abu Mansoor Al Matrudi Mausoleum. Al Matrudi (853-944 AD) was a theologian whose teachings underlie one of the major strands of Sunni Islam. His original mausoleum was destroyed in 1940 and this is a retro creation of 2000.

Ishrat-khana Mausoleum. Built in the 1450s / 60s, probably as a burial place for the Timurid dynasty women, it was wrecked in an earthquake of 1903 and is now a hollow ruin.

Abdi Darun Complex. Abd-al Maziddin was a notable Islamic judge who died around 861 AD - "darun" means his burial plot was outside the city wall. A small mausoleum was built in the 12th century, then a larger version in the 15th, replaced by another in the 19th then the version you see today in the early 20th.

Khodja Ahrar Complex. This ornately tiled mausoleum with mosque and medressa was erected from 15th to 17th century. This would be a major attraction elsewhere but is overshadowed by the Registan and other central sights, and few tourists come this far out.

Al-Bukhari Mausoleum. Al-Bukhari or Buxori (810-870 AD) compiled a Hadith, a huge collection of the sayings of the Prophet Mohammed, and related commentary. A grand mausoleum was built over his tomb in 1997. Since 2021 this has been closed for reconstruction.

Mahdumi Azam Islamic Memorial Complex. The complex takes its name from Mahdumi Azam, who lived between the 15th and 16th centuries and was a famous theologian and founder of the Dahbediya Sufi order (which is closely related to the Naqshbandi order). There is a 17th-century mosque, and centuries-old wide and tall plane trees grow here. The historical building of the Khanaqah is also worth seeing. Interestingly, the Yalangtush Bahadur, who built two of the three madrasas in the Registan Ensemble (Sherdar Madrasa and Tilla Kari Madrasa), is buried here. It is more convenient and faster for tourists to get here by taxi from Samarkand.

Sayyid Ibrahim Shrine and Imamzadeh Shia Mosque. A Shiite shrine and new mosque, where local Iranians live. The interior of the mausoleum is similar to Shiite shrines and mosques in Iran and Iraq, and is truly stunning. It is home to the burial of one of the sons of the 7th (Musa al-Kazim) of the 12 Imams, named Sayyid Ibrahim ibn Musa al-Kazim. Admission is free.

Panjab Shia Mosque and Panjab Madrasah. Samarkand's largest active Shia mosque. Shia religious ceremonies, including Ashura, are regularly held here. Next to the mosque is an inactive madrasa of the same name, turned into a landmark, where souvenirs are sold, people gather for socializing, a center for learning Persian, and a friendship society between Uzbekistan and Iran.

Murad Avliya Shrine and Mosque. Samarkand's Shia-Sunni Shrine. The mausoleum houses the tomb of the renowned theologian and saint, Khodja Said Musa ibn Said Murtaza, better known as Murad Avliya.

Roman Catholic Church of St. John the Baptist. The city's only Catholic Church. It was built in 1916 in the neo-Gothic style by Austro-Hungarian prisoners of war brought here by the Russian Empire during World War I. Most of the priests in this church are Polish. In Samarkand, Catholics include local Poles, local Ukrainians with roots in Western Ukraine, and expats from Catholic countries. The church is part of the Apostolic Administration of Uzbekistan, which is subordinate to the Vatican. Services are held in Russian and English.

Armenian Church of the Holy Mother of God. The place's only Armenian Church, built in 1903 by local Armenian residents with the permission of the Russian Imperial authorities. Samarkand is home to the second-largest Armenian diaspora in Uzbekistan, after Tashkent. Armenians have been living in Central Asia since the late 14th century, and their population increased during the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union. After the collapse of the USSR, most of the local Armenians remained in independent Uzbekistan and obtained local citizenship, while a small number of them moved to Armenia, Russia, Europe, and the United States. Local Armenians belong to the category of so-called Eastern Armenians. In Samarkand, they have shashlik (barbecue) bars where you can try pork shashlik, as well as local homemade wine and cognac.

Orthodox Cathedral of St. Alexei of Moscow. It is one of the city's three active Orthodox churches, and the largest one (there are others which are inactive), subordinate to the Samarkand Deanery of the Tashkent and Uzbekistan Diocese (Central Asian Metropolitan District) of the Russian Orthodox Church of the Moscow Patriarchate. Named after Metropolitan Alexei of Moscow, who lived in the 14th century, the church was built in 1912 in the Russian Revival architecture style, originally for a military garrison. Orthodoxy is the main Christian denomination in Samarkand. Most of the local Russians, Belarusians, Ukrainians, Georgians, some of the local Koreans, and other small ethnic groups (for example, Greeks, Latvians, and Moldovans) that arrived during the Imperial and Soviet periods are Orthodox.

Orthodox Church of the Intercession of the Mother of God. The main Orthodox church, although slightly smaller than the cathedral mentioned above, and since the rector of this particular church is the main Orthodox priest in Samarkand. It was built in 1903, in the Russian style, originally for the Russian Empire's rifle regiment. After the establishment of Soviet power, the church was closed in 1930 and reopened in 1998, under the current name, in honor of the Feast of the Protection of the Holy Virgin (Intercession of the Theotokos). During its construction and until its closure, it was known as the Church of the Ascension of the Lord. According to some sources, during the Soviet era, this was the only active Orthodox church in the city, apart from a small chapel inside the Bratskoe cemetery. By 1998, the church had been reopened after restoration.

Orthodox Church of St. George the Victorious. The third and smallest of the three active Orthodox churches. What is interesting here is the colorful free-standing bell tower at the entrance to this church. It has a modest but beautiful interior. Like the other Orthodox churches, it is part of the Tashkent-Uzbekistan diocese of the Russian Orthodox Church of the Moscow Patriarchate.

The former Orthodox Church of St. George the Victorious. It houses a Museum of Religious and National Tolerance, as well as an art gallery. The building was constructed in 1882. During the Soviet era, the large bell tower and domes on the roof of the church were destroyed by communists and atheists. A small airplane was placed in place of the bell tower, and the building was used for various purposes, such as housing the paramilitary organization DOSAAF. After the collapse of the USSR, the church was no longer suitable for worship due to its destroyed bell tower, and was therefore turned into a museum. This is one of the 3-4 inactive former churches in Samarkand.

Seventh-day Adventist Church. A large Seventh-day Adventist Church, built after Uzbekistan's Independence. In addition to Orthodox, Catholic, and Armenian Christians, Samarkand has many churches and adherents of other Christian denominations, including Protestants, Seventh-day Adventists, Baptists, Presbyterians, Jehovah's Witnesses, Mormons, Lutherans, and Korean Christian churches. Services of all these denominations are held mainly in Russian, as well as in Uzbek and Tajik.

Samarkand Presbyterian Church. It has an interesting architecture and was built after Uzbekistan gained independence. Since Uzbekistan is a secular state, the Constitution guarantees freedom of conscience and religion.

Baha'i Spiritual Center. Samarkand is home to a small number of Bahais, who have their own official community spiritual center in the depths of a one-story residential area. The Bahais of Samarkand, like the so-called "non-traditional" Christian denominations, are multi-ethnic.

Gumbaz Synagogue. This is one of the two local active synagogues, opened in 1891. It was closed during the Soviet era and reopened after Uzbekistan gained independence.. Unlike the second synagogue, this is primarily attended by so-called Bukharian Jews, although it also has a separate Ashkenazi hall. Services are conducted in Bukhori, a Jewish-Tajik language. In the past, there were over 30 synagogues in this Jewish quarter, catering to various professions. The name of the synagogue translates to "dome". There are now only a few Jews left in the city. Since the 1970s (their flow increased in the 1980s and 1990s), they have mostly moved to Israel and the United States, as well as to Europe, Canada, and Australia.

Or Avner Synagogue. The second active local synagogue, built in the late 19th century and being rebuilt as of 2026 to include a mikvah, a Jewish Center, and classrooms.

Confucius Square. A large Chinese-style square, named after Confucius, with characteristic gazebos, an entrance arch in the appropriate style, and Chinese and East Asian elements.

Do

Eternal City and Eternity Square. Opened in 2022, a very beautiful tourist complex near a large Samarkand Rowing Canal, about 10 km east of the historical center of Samarkand. The Eternal City is an island with buildings built in an authentic style, including shopping pavilions and restaurants. The Eternity Square features a stage in the shape of Ulughbek's Observatory, as well as fast food outlets and amusement rides. Visitors can also enjoy boating and gondola rides on the canal. Additionally, there is a Quran Museum located within the complex. the place is really very instagrammable. There are several five-star skyscraper hotels around the complex, which are part of the Silk Road Samarkand tourist complex.

Afrasiyab. If you don't mind dust and love archaeology, then in the historical center of Samarkand, there are the ruins of ancient Samarkand, now called Afrasiyab. The territory covers 200 hectares, and is located behind the Shahi Zinda Complex and the Hazret Khizr Mosque, behind the Jewish Cemetery. Here you can see a large number of excavations of different depths, and touch history. In the settlement, you can enter from any convenient part. The entrance is free and not controlled by anyone. But keep in mind that Afrasiyab is now in the form of faceless hills with huge layers of cultural layer, and there may be street dogs in the depths, and after sunset, there are snakes and scorpions. From the harmless, you will see shepherds with herds of sheep and cows, and only turtles and lizards.

Football. The main football club in Samarkand is Dinamo Samarkand, which participates in the Uzbekistan Super League (the highest level of the country's leagues). The season runs from March to November. You can find the match schedule on the official website of the Uzbekistan PFL. Matches are played in the evening and tickets for matches are affordable. The stadium is located near the historical center of the city, and there is a so-called "Pub Street" (officialy Davlatabad Street) near the stadium, as well as the Samarkand Brewery, where you can try local (and non-local) beers and enjoy snacks. Local fans are not aggressive and are friendly to foreigners.

Samarkand Regional Anton Chekhov Russian Drama Theater. If you understand Russian, there is an Anton Chekhov Russian Drama Theatre in the Soviet part (West) of Samarkand, where performances are entirely in Russian. Many of the actors and actresses are ethnic Slavs (mostly Russians), so sometimes it feels like you are in some provincial theater in the backwoods of Russia. This theater also occasionally hosts performances and concerts by invited troupes and singers from other Russian-speaking theaters in Uzbekistan, as well as Russian-speaking troupes and singers from Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Belarus, and, of course, Russia. The architecture of the theater building is also of interest to tourists.

Samarkand Regional Theater of Musical Drama. If for personal experience you want to see a performance in the Uzbek language, then in the center of Samarkand on the Theater Square, not far from the Ruhabad Mausoleum there is the main theater of Samarkand. The theater building was built in Soviet times, and somewhat resembles the building of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, but only without sculptures on the roof of the portal. In addition to performances in Uzbek, there are also performances in Russian and Tajik.

Samarkand Grand Concert Hall. The main concert hall of Samarkand is located near the Dinamo Stadium, where not only singers from Uzbekistan, but also from neighboring countries (such as Tajikistan) and other countries of the former USSR (such as Russia, Belarus, Ukraine, Azerbaijan, and Georgia), and also, for example, from Turkey perform concerts.

Tash Hammam. An old-fashioned stone hammam near (2 km) Samarkand's Railway Station. It is popular among locals and is cheap, and the cleanliness is acceptable.

Sayid Hammam. Another antique-style hammam at the entrance to the Iranian quarter of Samarkand, called Panjab. The building of the active Korean Presbyterian Church, which is located very close to this hammam, will also be of interest to tourists.

Yoshlik Attraction Park. Surrounded by Soviet-era apartment buildings, the park features a variety of amusement rides (including several from the Soviet era) and fast-food outlets. The prices for the rides are quite affordable for tourists from Europe or the United States. The technical condition of the rides may vary, although there are many new ones.

Amir Temur Park. A large green park with a minimum of amenities and benches, not far from the Gur-e Emir Mausoleum. You will definitely pass through this park if you continue walking towards Registan Square. The park has many coniferous and chestnut trees. There is a spring and a monument to the two Tiger Guards of Samarkand.

Buy

There are lots of ATMs ("bankomats") in city centre, accepting most western credit cards. The mark-up for drawing cash is modest, say 1.5%, but your bank will pile on extra.

Currency can be exchanged in banks, currency exchange service in the airport, and with men at the northern entrance to Siyob Bazaar (ask around).

Samarkand Silk Carpets and Craft Factory. A well-known place in Samarkand where you can see firsthand how handmade silk and wool carpets are woven in large quantities, as well as buy them. The place has large rooms where, in addition to handmade carpets, other silk products (such as scarves and the like) are also sold. You can bargain. It is within walking distance (south-east) of the Shahi Zinda Memorial Complex and the Jewish Quarter (to the east of it).

Art&Antique Shop "Mubarak" by Mr. Haydar. A very colorful antique shop in the depths of Samarkand's Jewish Quarter. It is located in a former Jewish traditional house and is filled with old items (clothes, badges, figurines, dishes, and more). You can bargain. The owner is a friendly elderly man who speaks very little English but knows Russian. Opposite the shop is a small neighborhood mosque with a low, detached minaret. The store is easier to find if you enter the neighborhood through pedestrian Islam Karimov Street.

Siyab Grand Bazaar. One of the most famous bazaars in Uzbekistan, and the largest bazaar in Samarkand, is located in the historical center of Samarkand, near the popular tourist pedestrian Islam Karimov Street, and the Bibi Khanum Grand Mosque. This bazaar is approximately 800 years old. Here, you can bargain for a wide range of souvenirs and traditional clothing, as well as national sweets, dried fruits, and nuts, fresh vegetables and fruits, food products, and even everyday clothing. The bazaar is divided into several themed sections. The bazaar is open from Tuesday to Sunday (it is closed on Mondays), from 08:00 to 19:00.

Yangi Bazaar. A very large clothing bazaar to the east of the historical center of Samarkand, within walking distance of the Shahi Zinda Complex and the Jewish Quarter. There are several shopping malls and many large clothing and appliance stores around the bazaar. The bazaar is open every day (except Monday) from morning to evening. You can also bargain here. There are both local textiles and products from China, Turkey, the UAE, Kyrgyzstan, Iran, Russia, and Belarus. It is officially known as the Silk Road Bazaar (Ipak Yo'li bozori), but it is commonly referred to as the Yangi Bazaar (New Bazaar), as it was opened in the mid-2000s. Interestingly, there is a bird market located to the northwest of the bazaar, where pets are sold.

Makon Mall. A large 4-storey shopping center in a former historic Soviet "GUM". There are many clothing and household appliance stores, as well as cosmetics, jewelry, and similar items. On the top floor, there is a large food court with numerous establishments. In addition to local cuisine, there is Turkish, Asian, and Italian cuisine. Open from 10:00 to 22:00. It is located in the so-called "Russian Samarkand" (near the city center). Next to this shopping center, there is also a small bazaar called the Marmar (Marble) Bazaar (popularly known as the "Kryty Rynok" in Russian). Behind the Makon Mall shopping center, there is a Soviet-style cinema called "Sharq Yulduzi" (Star of the East), and the rather picturesque and long pedestrian Mustaqillik Street (Independence Street) begins there.

Family Park. Samarkand's largest shopping mall has three floors. There is a large food court on the top floor. There is an original KFC. The only drawback is its location in the western part of Samarkand, away from the historical center. Behind the shopping mall, you can see an entire neighborhood of Soviet-era apartment buildings.

Festival Mall. A 4-storey mall on the way from the historical center to the Railway Station, in the Soviet part of Samarkand. But it's smaller in scale than the previous two malls.

M.Baraka. A small mall near the Dinamo Stadium. There is a large supermarket Korzinka.uz, shops, and a children's entertainment center and bowling alley on the upper floors.

Centrium Hall. If you find yourself in the heart of Samarkand's southwestern, non-touristic area, where the residential district is Soviet-style, this mall will provide you with convenience. This area is called Sattepo.

Carpet Shop. If you're heading home from your travel in Central Asia and you haven't got a chance to buy a carpet, go straight here. Even if you were in Registan before and don't want to buy another ticket just to buy a carpet, ask a guard at ticket booth, explain that you just want to buy a carpet and not see Registan, and he or someone will let you in for free and guide you straight to the shop. Do bargain.

Eat

Plov is the staple dish, rice stewed with meat and veg. The local version uses more oil and yellow carrots than elsewhere, sometimes enlivened by an otherwise useless horse. Samarkand Non, the local bread, is almost a bowl or cake.

Historic. Great local restaurant in a side street only a few meters from the Registan. They offer good shashlik and other Uzbek food, plus beer and vodka.

Cafe Magistr. Slick central place with veggie choices, staff speak good English.

Old City Restaurant. Good choice for trad Uzbek cuisine.

Joni Osh. Reputedly the best plov in Samarkand. Get there early before they run out!

Karim Bek. Hearty portions of Uzbek specialties.

Istiqlol. Family-friendly place serving trad dishes.

Drink

Bars in city centre include Sam Craft outside Registan, Blues Bar on Amir Temur St, Green Bear at Bazarova 11, and Botchka nearby.

Sleep

Old Station Hotel. Small modern hotel right by the railway station.

Rayyan Hotel. Clean modern chain hotel very near the railway station.

Registan Hostel. Friendly comfy hostel in a great central spot.

Hostel Nabi next door gets poor reviews.

Bahodir Hotel. Backpacker place around a courtyard, with dorm and private rooms. Friendly and mostly clean, very central.

Sandhill Hotel is within the same building at Mullokandov 136.

Jahongir Hotel. Comfortable modern rooms near the historic centre.

Jahongir Premium Hotel is close by at Chirokchi 11.

Uyut Hotel. Friendly small B&B in a quiet neighbourhood.

Zarafshon Parkside Hotel. Slick modern hotel by the park.

Amir Hostel. Basic but clean, friendly and in good repair.

Mehmonxona Hostel. Inexpensive and central hostel with friendly staff that speaks Russian. The place also hosts Pilav center (Osh markazi) where you can eat osh. No breakfast at the hostel, but other side of the street is a little bar.

Mahalla Hostel. Nice place and host. Breakfast is 70,000 so‘m extra, but good.

Konstantin Plaza. Clean and comfy, good service.

Hotel Malika Prime. Pleasant inexpensive hotel in a central location.

Hotel Malika Classic. Clean quiet hotel ranged around a peaceful courtyard.

Orient Star Hotel. Comfy enough but no lift to upper floors.

Qadim Hotel. Efficient and convenient.

Tiny Art House Hotel is 200 m from the terminal.