Potosí.
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Overview

Potosí, at around 4,000 metres, is one of the world's highest large cities. It is located in the Potosí Department of Bolivia. The wealthy history of Potosí is reflected in the narrow streets, colonial mansions and the many churches, which make the city a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Understand

Potosí was founded in 1546 after the discovery of the rich silver deposits in the Cerro Rico. It soon became one of the wealthiest and largest cities in the Americas. The mines of the Cerro Rico are the richest mines in all of world history and may have produced 60,000 tons of silver. The name Potosí was adopted by San Luis de Potosí in Mexico to reflect their hopes for equal riches. It is reputed that at one time mules were shoed with silver due to the difficulty of getting supplies of iron to the city. Some of this wealth was used to build magnificent baroque churches (UNESCO listed sites) and monasteries. Hundreds of thousands of indigenous labourers and African slaves perished in mines in the three centuries of colonial rule. The miners were often below ground for weeks at a time. In 1800 the silver mines were depleted and tin became the major ore mined. They are now mining rare earths. All of this has led to a slow economic decline.

Get in

By bus There are 2 bus terminals in Potosí:

From specific destinations: Oruro – There are several daily buses, about 6 hr. Sucre – There are hourly connections with, 3½ hr, Bs. 17. Tupiza – Morning and evening buses at 09:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:30, 22:00, 23:00. 5-8 hr, Bs. 30. Expresso Tupiza (sometimes written as ExP) seems to be a slightly more expensive but reliable option for around Bs. 40. (from the new terminal). Uyuni – There are buses going at 10:00 and 18:00. 5-7 hr, Bs. 35. As of May 2024 there are reportedly several more departures in the afternoon as well, including 13:00 and 15:00. Tarija – Morning and evening buses with Expreso Tarija. 9-10 hr, Bs. 60. La Paz – The new terminal. 9 hr, Bs. 100 for cama.

By van/servis Collective cabs that travel slightly quicker but more expensive than the buses can also be arranged to Sucre (Bs. 35-50, 2½-3 hr) and Oruru (Bs. 120). These leave when full and are a godsend during bus strikes. You may buy additional seats for more comfort or faster departures.

By taxi From Sucre it is worth hiring a cab for 2 or more people as the trip is faster and more comfortable than one on a collective cab or a bus, and the cab leaves at your schedule.

By plane If arriving at Sucre airport, there are shared taxis that depart from the airport. Upon exiting the airport, look to your right and there is a taxi rank. 50 per person (as of Nov. 200. The taxi will usually drop you off in Potosí's main plaza.

To return, taxis leave from the "ex-terminal". If you wish to return to the airport, you should negotiate with the driver, it will be between Bs. 40-50 pp.

Get around

Taxis are generally cheap and plentiful around Potosí. Some charge per person which could get you into arguments when it comes time to pay. Taxis from main bus terminal between 3-5bs depending on your bargaining skills and the time of day.

See

Casa Nacional de Moneda. Cl. Ayacocha s/n, is the former royal mint of Spain, where the coins of the world's most powerful currency were produced during the colonial era from locally-mined silver. It now houses a museum, located at the mint's second location (prior to 1773 it was located at what's now the yellow courthouse on Plaza 10 de Noviembre). Visits are by guided tour only (English M-Sa at 09:00, 11:00, and 14:30; Su 10:30 or 11:00) which takes about 2 hr. The museum has a collection of religious art, contemporary art, local minerals, and well-preserved artifacts covering several hundred years of technologies from both of the mint's two historical locations.

El Cerro Rico, the "rich hill" where most of Potosí's silver was mined, is easily visible from many parts of the city, including some of the streets in the historic center, as the obvious big conical hill in shades of red and tan.

Convento de Santa Teresa. Tours (in Spanish only) give a good explanation of the life and work of the Carmelite nuns and their monastery. Very little flagellation (LP).

Torre de la Compañia de Jesus. Nice views of the surroundings from above.

Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Peace.

Do

Mining tour. A visit to Potosí cannot be mentioned without a visit to one of the cooperative mines. It is a kind of poverty tourism that many tourists are eager to embrace. It's a shocking experience as the methods of working haven't changed much since the colonial times. Working conditions are terrible: most miners die of silicosis in their forties. Still, many people don't have another choice and around 10,000 people work in the mines. A tour starts with a visit to the miners' market to buy gifts for the miners like coca leaves, drinks, cigarettes or dynamite. You will then visit an ore refinery plant where the miners sell whatever deposits they manage to collect. Then you head to the mines, where a typical visit will have you walking and crawling through it for about 2~3 hr. The dust is supposed to contain silicon that leads to silicosis (wear a disposable mask!) among the miners. Water dropping from the walls and ceiling is said to contain arsenic and cyanide. You can see asbestos fibers in the rock walls. Many of the mine props are snapped and in 2003 there was a minor ceiling cave-in that forced visitors to wait a bit before being able to exit the mine. One very interesting aspect of the mine was the little side chamber near the entrance to the mine that contained a statue of "El Tio," a diabolic figure that the miners make offerings to. They say that God may rule aboveground, but that El Tio is in charge down below.Btw. they don't do explosions just for tourists, but for the sake of the mine. People with claustrophobic tendencies, be wary, Silver Mine Tours takes you deep into the guts of this rabbit warren of a mine. It seems the safety aspect is very low, actually totally missing.

Eat

The cheapest meals can be found in the Mercado Central.

Doña Eugenia. Try the famous Kalapurka soup (spicy soup served hot with a volcanic rock). It is a Potosí institution. Take a cab.

Sumaj Orcko. Serves big plates (Bs. 30-35), also a good place for lunch (Bs. 15).

Chifa Rosa. Cheap but not special Chinese food.

Pasteleria Cherrys. For pastels and breakfast

Tenedor de Plata. Upmarket restaurant with great food at reasonable prices, start with the great house salad for Bs. 12.

Drink

Cine de Universidad, Bolivar 893, for Hollywood movies. Spanish only.

Sleep

Hostal More. Clean with shared bathroom and great views. Has rooms for up to 4 people.

Koala Den. Has heating in the rooms! Book exchange, fast Internet with Wi-Fi. Dorm bed with excellent breakfast including eggs and fruit! Bs. 60-70 (dorm with 6-8 beds). Also doubles and triples. Has highly recommended tours of the silver mines even though they are a bit more expensive than other tour companies. Has a great view of the mountain from the rooftop, be careful when climbing the water tank though.

Residencial Felcar, Av Serrudo esq. Bustillos 345, (02)6224966. Another favorite spot by travellers. It has a nice, sunny patio and hot showers 08:00-22:00. Some of the singles are tiny. Single Bs. 25. Hotel Jerusalem with beautiful views over Potosí from breakfast room and from roof top.

Carlos Hostal V. Here is a great hostel in the heart of Centro Potosí. Great beds, fast wifi, warm showers, and a great lounging area.

Sky Hacienda Hotel. An architecturally unique hotel above the Yotala valley, surrounded by 360-degree panoramic views of the mountains.