Heraklion.
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Overview

Heraklion (Greek: Ηράκλειον, Irákleio) or Iraklio is the major city and capital of Crete, the largest of the Greek islands. Its archaeological museum holds the remains of the 4000-year-old Minoan civilization, which centred on the nearby palace of Knossos, with its Minotaur legend. The city has several Venetian and Byzantine churches and the biggest in East Mediterranean well-preserved Venetian wall and harbour fortress from the 15th century.

Understand

Around 1880, the Greek Kalokairinos, and later in 1900, the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans began excavating a site just south of the city, thinking to find remains of ancient culture maybe Mycenean. He quickly discovered a much older, more powerful civilisation, which he called “Minoan” after the Minotaur legend. 4000 to 3000 years ago, Crete dominated the east Mediterranean from this site, Knossos. These discoveries changed our ideas of the ancient world – and Crete's modern fame and tourist industry were born.

Heraklion (also transcribed as Herakleion, Iraklio, Irakleion) has been much fought-over down the centuries. From 1204 it was held by the Venetians, who built a great wall around the city, and a harbour fort, to defend against the Ottoman Turks. But the Ottomans won in 1669 and held the island until 1898 when their empire was crumbling. Crete for a time was independent, then was incorporated into Greece in 1913.

Modern air transport brought huge numbers of tourists, mostly heading to resorts further along the coast, and the city sprawled out way beyond its historic centre – the population of the urban area is now some 211,000 (2021). Many developments were ugly and ill-planned. Then came recession, and turmoil in the Greek economy. Heraklion today is an interesting city with a pedestrianized center and a lovely coastal promenade.

Like the rest of Crete, Heraklion has a Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot and dry with clear skies, but often with stiff breezes to relieve the heat. Winters are mild with little rain and rare frosts.

Tourist information Heraklion Tourism website

Get in

Public bus service is also available.

By boat The principal ferry route is from Piraeus, the port for Athens. These ferries mostly sail overnight, leaving in each direction around 21:00 to dock next morning at 06:00. The Heraklion ferry terminal is near the KTEL bus station just east of town centre. The operators are Minoan Lines, Anek Lines and Superfast Ferries

Other routes are: from Thessaloniki and Dodecanese by G.A. Ferries from the Cyclades by G.A. Ferries, Sea Jets and Hellenic Seaways. from Santorini by Anek, Seajets and Hellenic Seaways, links above.

Most ferries take vehicles and run year-round – trucking is an important part of their business, especially since so many people nowadays fly. But frequency is much reduced in winter, so for island-hopping you may find you have to double back via Piraeus.

By road See below under “Get around”.

Get around

By bus Heraklion is connected with the rest of Crete by regular bus lines operated by two KTEL companies for Western and Eastern Crete. The coaches are modern, comfortable and air-conditioned. The main inter-city buses run hourly.

There is only one bus station for all inter-city buses in Heraklion:

In and around Heraklion, use the public city buses. For trip planning, route, schedule and stop information use Herakleio City Bus app. Or check bus itineraries and departure times at

Small stops may have none of these, so consider buying two tickets, keeping one for your return. At bus stops, signal the driver by raising your arm. There are two free circular "Citybus" lines in the city centre which run from 07:00 until 22:40.

When you get on the bus, hold the bottom half of your ticket in your right hand.

Line 1 goes to the airport Line 2 goes to Knossos Line 7 goes to Amnissos Line 8 goes to FORTH (Foundation for Research & Technology Hellas) Line 11 goes to University hospital Line 12 goes to HMU (Hellenic Mediterranean University, formerly TEI - Technologiko Ekpedeftiko Idrima Kritis)

By car Traffic in Heraklion is bad and parking is worse. You can see the main central sights on foot, and take the bus for Knossos, Rethymno and Chania. You hardly need a car for your trip.

Hiring a car is easy with the usual documentation (a standard EU driving licence is fine.) Get prior permission in writing from the rental company if you plan to take the car away on a ferry.

Petrol stations often close around 21:00, particularly in villages. Most petrol stations expect you to pay cash; they serve you, so you can choose for them to fill the tank or put in fuel to a cash value. On the National Highway, there are service stations, but they are often 50 km or so apart. Fill up before public holidays and Sundays when you may have more difficulty finding an open station.

By taxi Lots of taxi ranks in all the main locations, downtown and at the airport and ferry port. Usually they're looking for trade and will spot you before you spot them.

By motorbike Even though Crete is the biggest Greek island, it is still easy and quick to get around it by motorcycle. Riding mopeds and motorcycles is a common activity in Crete and a lot of tourists choose this way of exploring the island. The minimum driving age for a moped in Greece is 16. As Crete is a very rural island, riders should be aware of livestock who often are present along the sides of the highways, and sometimes can make their way into the middle of the road. As tempting as it might be to explore off the beaten path, a good rule of thumb is to stick to roads and trails that emergency services will be able to access should there be a need for emergency assistance.

There is no lack of motorbike rental providers around the Island, but mostly are concentrated near the airports and within Heraklion, Chania, and Rethymno.

See

The must-see sights are the Archaeological Museum downtown, and the Palace of Knossos 5 km south. A combined ticket is no longer offered.

Take a stroll along the city's Venetian wall (Greek: Τείχη). It's 7.5 km long, with seven bastions jutting out. On the southernmost of these, the Martinengo Bastion, is the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis with its moving inscription, "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free." From the wall head towards the harbour, taking in the Historical Museum, which picks up the story where the Archaeological Museum leaves off. The Koules or fortress stands over the inner harbour but the mole continues for almost 2 km, with views back over the city and the ferry port. You don't need to enter the Koules to go on the mole, but you may need to dash where the waves are breaking at its base.

Heraklion Archaeological Museum. Houses the most important and representative finds from Minoan civilisation and excavations across the island of Crete. Highlights include statues of the Snake Goddess, the Bull-Leaping Fresco, the Phaistos Disk, and Minoan seals and jewellery. Also includes a number of finds from Classical Greek and Roman periods.

Palace of Knossos. If you see just one ruin on Crete, see Knossos (in Greek it’s Κνωσός, stress is on the second syllable). The site is fairly compact, and much of it is accessible with restricted mobility. But 30 minutes will do it. It is one of six Minoan Palatial Centres to be listed as a world heritage site.

Koules. Koules (Greek: Κούλες) was built by the Venetians in the 16th C. From the parapet, enjoy the view towards Dia Islet, where Jacques Cousteau found many sunken remains of Cretan sea trade.

Fortifications of Heraklion. The Fortifications of Heraklion are among the most impressive Venetian defensive works in the Mediterranean, encircling the old city of Heraklion. Built between the 15th and 17th centuries, their massive walls and bastions helped the city withstand a 21-year Ottoman siege—the longest in history—before falling in 1669. Much of the circuit survives today and can be walked, offering sweeping views and access to key monuments like the harbour fortress.

Historical Museum of Crete. Covers the story of Crete from the Byzantine era to the present day. It includes material on World War II and the German occupation, which was displayed in the “Museum of the Battle for Crete and National Resistance” until it closed.

Loggia. An elegant city meeting place, built in 1628.

St Minas Cathedral. (Greek: Άγιος Μηνάς)

St Titus Church. (Greek: Άγιος Τίτος) Known for housing the skull of St. Titus.

St Catherine of the Sinaites Church. (Greek: Αγία Αικατερίνη Σιναϊτών).

St Mark's Basilica. (Greek: Βασιλική Αγίου Μάρκου).

Dominican Church of St Peter. (Greek: Άγιος Πέτρος Δομηνικανών).

Natural History Museum of Crete. The Natural History Museum of Crete shows the natural environment of the Eastern Mediterranean area with a special emphasis on Greece and Crete.

Nikos Kazantzakis Museum. This museum in the village of Myrtia (Varvari), 20 km south of Heraklion, focuses on Crete's most prominent modern intellectual figure.

Take the main highway east towards Malia to reach the Cretaquarium and the folklore museum.

CretAquarium Thalassokosmos. The biggest aquarium in the Eastern Mediterranean.

Lychnostatis Open-Air Museum. Open-air Cretan folklore museum.

Do

Amoudara the city's beach area; a 6 km strip of sandy beach, lots of cafes, bars and hotels and the site of "Technopolis", a modern multiplex cinema and open-air theatre. Horseback riding, experienced and amateur riders can ride at the beach of Karteros, or take riding lessons at Ippikos Omilos Hrakliou, located 6 km east of Heraklion, in Karteros. Rock climbing, locals and visitors can climb a 15 m rock at the suburb of Karteros, east of Heraklion. Safety equipment is provided. Water fun at Water City and Aqua Plus water parks. Football: OFI Crete play soccer in Superleague, the top tier in Greece. Their home ground is Theodoros Vardinogiannis Stadium (capacity 9000) on km west of city centre. Heraklion Sailing Club (Ιστιοπλοϊκός Όμιλος Ηρακλείου) offers sailing lessons, sailing trips, yacht charters and has its own seafood restaurant. It's on the former premises of the port refrigeration plant, east of the Port Authorities. Heraklion Summer Arts Festival is held from June to September.

Learn

University of Crete. The leading higher education institution on the island of Crete. The University was established in 1973 and operates under the supervision of the State. The seat of the University is in Rethymno, with Heraklion hosting the School of Sciences and Engineering and that of Health Sciences.

Buy

Visit the central open market near Meidani square and buy mountain herbs, spices and folk natural remedies.

Eat

Also available are the usual complement of pastry shops for standard meals such as spanakopita (spinach pie) and various cheap desserts.

There are many low-priced restaurants in the city centre:

O Kafenes tou Kagiampi. Old fashioned tavern with traditional Greek dishes.

Kafeneio O Ntokos. Tiny place next to the fish market with delicious mezedes to accompany your beer or raki.

Umami Homemade Organic & Vegan Restaurant.

Μαγειρείον Μελομπερδέματα (κ. Ελένη).

Kafeneio O Lakkos. Lost in a maze of small streets where different street artists have decorated the walls of the houses, Lakkos is particularly nice in the summer.

Pagopiion. (Ice-Factory)– A "quirky" restaurant and cafe/bar, at St Titus square, by the church. You can sit outside and enjoy the setting, or you might be tempted by the dramatic decor to sit inside. The food is excellent, and the menu different and interesting.

Ippokampos. Seafood and fish tavern by the sea side, popular with the locals.

Herbs' Garden. The name has been inspired from the traditional Cretan herbs. Offers a spectacular view of Heraklion's Venetian fortress and Cretan Sea. Opens from early afternoon and serves fresh fish and salads accompanied by local aperitifs and a variety of fine wines. Later in the afternoon there is special coffee and tea arrangements, fresh fruit juices, ice cream and cocktails.

Avli. Down an alleyway, in the cozied-up courtyard of a nondescript building. You know they are serious when the menu (and the sign) is in Greek only. Don't worry; the owner's daughter speaks perfect English and will sit down with you to explain the choices. A big selection of seasonal mezedhes and a smaller one of main dishes; all are super-fresh and most are local. No house wine; there's a board with today's by-the-glass, and of course a free raki with dessert. Hard to call it a hidden gem, since tourists obviously have discovered the place and are leaving ridiculously glowing reviews all over. They are right.

Drink

Raki, also known as tsikoudia, is the trademark of Cretan day and night life, a strong clear drink similar to grappa in Italy or orujo in Spain. It is made from the 'must' of grape skins and twigs after the local production of the white wine. It doesn't taste like aniseed, as opposed to the Turkish rakı. Most raki is standard spirit strength of 40% or 80o proof, but some are much stronger. It's often served in small glasses after dinner with a plate of fruit or other dessert. Cretan wine: Try the distinctive Cretan wine, produced in the island for at least 4000 years. Labels: Sitia, Peza Union. The Cretans themselves drink so called 'open' wine, straight out of the barrel, like fresh white wine, and the sometimes very old dark rusty red wine, a bit like port. Typical Cretan wine varieties are Marouvas and Kotsifali (both red wines).

Sleep

Budget There are two hostels in Heraklion, both in the city centre, a 10-minute drive from the airport and a 5-minute drive from the port.

Heraklion Youth Hostel. Read the online reviews before booking: fairly disgusting and not for the faint hearted.

Prince of Lillies Hotel. An excellent family-run hotel in Karteros, about 7 km east of Heraklion beyond the airport. (On bus route to Ag Nik with hourly buses.)

Mirabello Hotel. Good value, friendly atmosphere, very helpful staff. Centrally located in a quiet part of the city. Nice views from the balcony.

Life Hotel. This hotel is walking distance to the port and very close to the bus station. A good option if staying near the port and walking distance to the centre. It is also a 25-min walk from the airport and the directions are simple: Remain on Ikarou Ave until you see the hotel on the left. Staff are helpful and speak fluent English

Aquila Atlantis Hotel. Centrally located in a quiet area.

Candia Maris Resort - Adults Only. This 5-star spa resort is on the sandy beach of Amoudara, west of Heraklion. Tennis courts and 3 outdoor pools are featured amidst its 40,000-m² garden.

Lato Boutique Hotel. 4-star accommodation within a modern, friendly environment with panoramic views of the Venetian fortress.