Thessaloniki.
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Overview

Thessaloniki (Greek: Θεσσαλονίκη) is the capital of Macedonia, and with one million inhabitants (2025), the second largest city in Greece. It is a city with a continuous 3,000-year history, preserving relics of its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman past and of its formerly dominant Jewish population. Its Byzantine churches, in particular, are included in UNESCO's world heritage list.

Understand

Once the biggest port of the Balkans, Thessaloniki is a city that has been conquered by many empires, with each one leaving its mark. One can find Ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman buildings all throughout the city.

History King Philip II of Macedon, after a victory in the region of Thessaly, named his next daughter "Thessalonike" (Thessaly Victory). Cassander, a later king of Macedon, married her, and founded the city in her name in 315 BC. The city grew over time, becoming a major metropolis of the Roman Empire, and then the second largest and wealthiest city of the Byzantine Empire after Constantinople.

During the Ottoman years a sizeable Jewish community formed in the city (at times even majority-Jewish), giving it the name 'The Jerusalem of the Balkans'. Muslims, Jews and Christians lived together in Thessaloniki for over 400 years. During the 1923 Greco-Turkish population exchange hundreds of thousands of Christians arrived from Asia Minor and most of the Muslims moved to Turkey. The 55,000 strong Jewish community was eradicated during the 1941-1945 German occupation, with 2,000 remaining after the war.

Thessaloniki lies on the northern fringe of the Thermaic Gulf on its eastern coast and is bound by Mount Chortiatis to the east.

The City Centre is bound by the waterfront, up the hill to Olympiados Street to the northeast, and the Byzantine-era city walls on the sides - Dimokratias Square to the northwest, the University campus and Thessaloniki International Fair to the southeast. Most commercial, entertainment and educational facilities can be found here, while it also remains a densely populated residential area. Most of this area burned down in the Great Thessaloniki Fire of 1917, and was rebuilt with a modern grid city plan of streets parallel and perpendicular to the coastline.

Aristotelous Square. The focal point of the city. The square is used for cultural events, such as festivals, the annual Christmas and carnival celebrations, and the occasional political rally.

The Aristotelous Promenade, lined with cafes and restaurants, starts at Aristotelous Square and continues uphill to the Roman Forum. Other major perpendicular streets, starting from northwest, are Dragoumi, Venizelou, Agias Sofias and Ethinikis Aminis. If a street goes downhill, then it will lead you to the waterfront. The biggest parallel streets to the sea, starting from the sea, are Leoforos Nikis, Tsimiski, Egnatia, Agiou Dimitriou and Kassandrou.

Ano Poli (Upper City) lies on the hillside up towards Mount Chortiatis from the city centre. This area survived the great fire, and thus has a more medieval cityscape with small stone-paved streets, old squares and homes featuring old Greek and Ottoman architecture.

The metropolitan area, with population of about 1 million, spills out to the northwest and southeast.

Tourist information Thessaloniki tourism website

There are also tourist info booths at the central bus stations.

Get in

Thessaloniki is an important rail hub within Greece and it is quite easy to travel here by passenger trains. Hellenic Train operates up to six daily trains from Athens via Larissa. The journey used to take 4 hours, but after a huge flood that destroyed the central part of the line in 2023, it now takes around 5 hours. Restoration and improvement works are on the way and by 2025 the journey will again take 4 hours, possibly even lower. Additionally, there are trains from Alexandroupoli via Komotini, Xanthi and Serres in Western Thrace region. Regional trains connect with Florina, Kilkis, Kalampaka and several other cities in Northern Greece.

Thessaloniki also has a suburban railway also operated by Hellenic Train that connects the city to Larissa via Katerini running multiple times a day and stopping at many smaller cities and villages that the Intercity Trains do not.

There are normally staff at all major stations to facilitate transportation of disabled persons.

Discounts Ask for these discounts even if the TrainOSE employee does not mention them: Children (ages 4-12) get a 50% discount. Youth under 26 and elderly over 65 get a 25% discount (not on ICE). Disabled people and their escort get a 50% discount. Groups get a 30-50% discount. Two-way trips also get a discount.

By bus Thessaloniki is connected via the intercity KTEL bus network with every corner of Greece.

Prominent long-distance bus connections Athens/Volos – Buses from Athens and Volos make the trip to Thessaloniki in about 6 hr 30 min and 2 hr 30 min, respectively, the former including a 20-min stop at a roadside restaurant, usually near Lamia, with toilet facilities. Buses are air-conditioned, and some offer WiFi internet access. Belgrade – There are weekly departures to Belgrade (Serbia) from Thessaloniki and Athens, in the arrangement of the Greek and Serbian Agency. Istanbul – Regular buses between Istanbul and Athens also call in Thessaloniki. Skopje – A number of local travel agencies in Skopje also arrange transport to Thessaloniki daily by car or minibus. Others depart from the bus station, or other locations around the city. Simeonidis tours, N⁰ 14, 26th October St. There is one bus daily departing for Thessaloniki from the central bus station in Skopje and it takes about 5 hr to Thessaloniki. It departs at 06:00. Reservations are recommended. Sofia – There are at least four daily buses from Sofia, Bulgaria which pass through Thessaloniki, plus several non-daily. Prices are generally around . Tirana – There are a number of buses to Thessaloniki and Athens every day, departing from most major Albanian cities. You can catch a bus from Tirana or Shkodra and travel all the way south, making stops in most major Albanian and Greek cities. Since buses stop to pick up and drop passengers in most major cities, you can catch the bus at those cities en route. Budapest Buses to Budapest do not run everyday and the journey is quite long. It may involve stops in Skopje, Belgrade and Nis.

The domestic flight network is quite extensive, with most flights provided by either Aegean Airlines, its regional subsidiary Olympic Air an operator of subsidized public-service-obligation flights to less frequently served destinations, Sky Express a new Greek airline that offers cheap flights to Athens and multiple islands.

Apart from those, the majority of flights are charter and seasonal flights by holiday specialists. When it comes to traditional international airlines, the airport is mainly served by those belonging to the Star Alliance, which also includes Aegean and Olympic, such as Austrian, Turkish and Swiss.

The airport is not as well served as the Athens airport, to which it is connected by multiple daily flights taking around 50 min, provided by multiple airlines. Aegean's frequent shuttle flights are of particular interest, as they can be booked on a common ticket with an Aegean or other Star Alliance flight to other destinations in Europe and beyond.

A luggage storage room is available on the arrival floor.

Getting there The airport is 15 km south of the city centre.

By bus and metro Bus 02X connects the airport to Nea Elvetia (Νέα Ελβετία) metro station where you can connect to the metro towards the city centre. The bus runs every 20 min during most of the day and hourly in the late evening.

By bus – Bus line 01X provides 24/7 service between the airport, the New Railway Station, and the Macedonia InterCity Bus Terminal. Frequency is between 15 min and 30 min during the day. At night, the bus number changes to 01N and runs every 30 min. Tickets can be bought at a vending booth at the airport bus stop or at ticket machines on the buses (cards accepted). The ride from the airport to the city centre takes around 40 min. Buses can get very packed so do not expect a very comfortable ride. Bus number 79 from the airport does not get you to the city centre but to A.S. IKEA bus terminal in the city's east side. However, from there you can take another bus (ask the counter).

It's hard to find one during peak hours (07:00-08:00, 14:00-16:00 and 19:00-21:00), so plan early. Taxi can be prearranged through travel platforms as well as rideshare platforms.

On foot – If you'd like a panoramic trail, after or between your flights, you can spend this time on a fairly pleasant river and sea-side trail. It starts about 600 m from the terminal, where the . From there, a trail follows the river's right (NE) bank toward the north-west for about 1 km, until the river enters the sea; watch for water birds. From the river's mouth, the trail follows the sea coast to the NE and N for about 1 km, until it reaches the mouth of another little river. While not an official beach, swimming in the sea is possible. From that point, one can continue east for about 500 m along a small residential street named Floridas, until reaching the main highway (Leoforos Georgikis Scholis) just south of the . From there, two shopping centres, Hondos Centrer and IKEA (both with air conditioning, soft chairs, food, and free Wi-Fi) are within walking distance. From the you can take one of the bus lines to the city centre (e.g. The trail takes about 1 hr one-way and of course can be done in the other direction if you are arriving from the city centre at the IKEA bus terminal and have some time to kill before your flight.

Athens about 5 hr (Highway A1, E75) Belgrade in Serbia about 7 hr (A1, E75) Istanbul in Turkey about 8 hr (A2, E90) Tirana in Northeastern Albania about 6 hr (Α29 and Α2) Sofia in Northwest Bulgaria about 4 hr (Α25, Ε79) Constanta in Romania about 8 hr.

Don't assume you're safe from paying a fine just because locals flagrantly flout parking laws.

Traffic congestion is a problem, largely due to double-parked cars, but generally fellow drivers and passers-by are helpful in showing you the way if you're lost.

Get around

Thessaloniki has a single metro line with 13 stations that runs from the New Railway Station across the city centre and the southern and eastern suburbs to Nea Elvetia. The trains run from 05:30 to 00:30 except on Fridays and Saturdays when the last trains are at 02:00.

Venizelou station (Βενιζέλου). This station is worth a visit in itself: the station contains an active archaeological site dubbed the "Byzantine Pompeii" and a mini museum showcasing finds so far, which delayed the opening of the line by over 10 years.

A new line with 5 stations is planned to open in November 2025 and will serve the Kalamaria area.

OASTH is the city's bus company and runs a total of 85 different bus lines. Moovit or Rome2Rio mobile apps can be used to plan the journey and check the schedule on the go. Bus services usually operate from 05:00 until just after midnight. Bus 50, the "cultural line", follows a figure-of-8 route past all the major tourist sights. There is an English speaking guide aboard, who provides you with maps and information. The whole route takes 50 min, and it departs every hour on the hour from the White Tower. Connection to the airport is provided by buses 01X (which runs as 01N in the night), and 02X (requiring transfer to the metro at Nea Elvetia). Night bus 01N runs from 22:00-05:00 every 30 minutes on average. Being the only public transportation option after 00:00 it is usually packed with people, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, so don't count on it if you have a late night flight to catch.

This being Greece, the bus drivers go on strike occasionally. Notices about strikes may appear (in Greek only, naturally) at the bus stops information panels.

Tickets Tickets can be bought at TheTA's ticket outlets, at machines on the buses, and in the OSETH App. Certain types of tickets (see below) are also available at various other sales points. Physical tickets come in the form of reusable paper chipcards ("ThessTicket"). Tickets must be validated upon every boarding (by tapping your chipcard to the validator or scanning the QR code in your OSETH App - if the validators aren't working, simply get on board).

Students, persons aged 65+ or <18, and persons with over 67% disability get a 50% discount if they use a personalized ThessCard, which can be bought at TheTA's ticket outlets or online (account required; cards can be either picked up at a TheTA ticket outlet or delivered to a Greek address). Accompanied children under the age of six ride for free.

30-, 90-, 180- and 365-day passes for unlimited journeys on all lines (including the Airport line 01X/01N/02X and the Cultural line 50) are also available. A photo-ID and a recent photograph are required to issue a personalized ThessCard, onto which the passes are loaded.

By taxi Licensed taxis (dark blue with a taxi light) can be hailed in the streets and at taxi ranks. Ride hailing services (Freenow, Uber) are also an option. Most drivers are able to communicate in both Greek and English.

By bicycle There is a decent bicycle lane that runs along the seafront, but most other roads are narrow and not friendly to novice cyclists. Bicycle lanes often do not exist, even on main roads. Sometimes, there are bicycle lanes on the pavement.

ThessBike is a bike sharing system with stations mainly near the centre of the town. More stations are being planned in other areas. You can either become a subscriber or pay per hour.

See

The northernmost of the city and parts of the eastern walls are still standing, as is the city's symbol, the White Tower. The rest of the walls are in the picturesque Upper Town which offers a spectacular view over the bay, especially in the late afternoon.

When the Roman Empire was divided into the tetrarchy in 293 AD, Thessaloniki became the administrative capital of one of the four portions. Emperor Galerius commissioned an imperial palace and other structures.

Arch of Galerius. The triumphal arch was dedicated in 303 AD to celebrate the victory of the tetrarch Galerius over the Sassanids.

Roman Forum. Excavations and an interesting museum underneath.

Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments

As the "second city" of the Byzantine Empire, the city flourished during its early years, and was again revitalized in 1300s. This is reflected in the grandiosity of the religious spaces built during these periods, and in the richly-colored murals and mosaics that adorn their interiors.

Despite the capture of Thessaloniki by the Ottoman Empire in 1430, the Christian monuments were not destroyed. While not all of these Byzantine churches survived the 1917 fire, 13 of the ones remaining (along with the City Walls and the Byzantine Bath) have been added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Entrance to the buildings is free, except for the Rotunda. The hours vary widely. The largest ones are open for much of the day, the smallest ones are closed much of the time. Mornings are your best bet.

Rotunda. Started life as a Roman temple of Zeus, built by Caesar Galerius, and is almost as old as the Pantheon in Rome. The monument has a diameter of 24.5 m and its dome reaches a height of 30 m. It was converted into a Christian church during the Early Christian era, and its interior was decorated with magnificent mosaics. However some inside frescoes are a work of the British artist Alexander Rossi (1840-1916). In 1591 the Rotunda was converted into a mosque, and a tall minaret still stands beside the monument. Frequent earthquakes from the early 7ᵗʰ century until 1978 caused several damage. The latter caused the destruction of the dome section. After being restored, the monument reopened to the public in 1998.

Saint Demetrios. Constructed in the mid-7th century on the ruins of a Roman bath complex, in honor of Demetrius, a Roman officer who was imprisoned and martyred here in 303 AD. An earlier small church, built on the site of martyrdom, burned down during the earthquake of 620 and a new large basilica was erected at expenses of Leontius, the Byzantine prefect of Illyricum and the Bishop of Thessaloniki. The new church of S. Demetrios became one of the most famous centres of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians until its Muslim conversion in 1492. In the Great Fire of Thessaloniki of 1917 the basilica was gutted. The work of restructuring the church lasted fifty years. Most of the ancient mosaics in the western wall and in the inner central aisle survived the heat from the fire.

Church of the Acheiropoietos. A 5th-century church. The surviving original decoration includes fine 5th-century Ionian capitals, the green Thessalian marble columns of the tribelon and fragments of 5th-century decorative mosaics. Early 13th-century frescoes adorn the southern side.

Latomou Monastery. A late 5th-century church, once part of a monastery. Many surviving elements of the Byzantine decoration are of high artistic quality, especially the 5th-century apse mosaic the Icon of Christ of Latomos. Under Ottoman rule, the building was converted into a mosque.

Hagia Sophia. A church from the 7th century, based on the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, with mosaics from the 9th century.

Panagia Chalkeon. An 11th-century church. The paintings are from the time the church was built, except a few from the 14th century.

Saint Catherine. Fragments of its interior decoration are dated to ca. 1315.

Saint Panteleimon. A church built in the 14th century. Few of the building's original wall paintings survive, but its architecture is striking.

Church of the Holy Apostles. The interior decoration consists of rich mosaics on the upper levels. Frescoes complete the decoration on the lower levels of the main church, but also on the narthex and one of the chapels.

Saint Nicholas Orphanos. A 14th-century church, particularly worth a look for its well-preserved frescoes. See if you can spot one of the turtles in the garden.

Church of the Saviour. A 14th-century chapel.

Vlatades Monastery. A monastery built in the 14th century.

Church of Prophet Elijah. A 14th-century church. Fragments of the church's original wall paintings survive.

Byzantine Bath. Baths from the 12th/13th century that functioned continuously until 1940.

White Tower. A 34 m fortified tower from the 16th-century, the primary symbol of the city. It was part of the city's erstwhilse Byzantine walls, and became a prison under the Ottomans. Today it houses a small museum dedicated to the history of the city, and viewpoints at the top. The exhibits are only in Greek, but the museum provides WiFi and an MP3-based audioguide.

Heptapyrgion. Medieval fort built by the Ottomans, overlooking the city from Thessaloniki's acropolis. The Greeks converted it into a prison which remained open until 1989.

Trigoniou tower. There is an observation deck just outside the tower, offering great views of the city.

Bey Hamam. Built in 1444 by sultan Murad II, it was the first Ottoman bath in Thessaloniki and the most important one still standing throughout Greece.

Bedesten. A historical Ottoman market for jewellery and precious materials

Alaca Imaret Mosque. A historic mosque completed in the 1480s, with an imaret (public charity kitchen).

Hamza Bey Mosque. A former mosque built in 1460. In modern times, a cinema operated in the premises for decades.

Jewish history The city is known as "the mother of Israel", due to the once flourishing Jewish community here, which existed from the Roman period and grew substantially after the Ottoman Empire took in Jewish refugees expelled from Spain, Portugal, and Spanish territories in Italy; these Jews are known as "Sephardim". Sephardi Jews formed a significant percentage of the city's population and infrastructure until World War II, when, in spring 1943, almost all were deported by the Nazis to the extermination camp at Auschwitz, never to return. However, there are still two Synagogues, and you can see the Jewish Museum.

Eleftherias Square. In July 1942, during the Nazi occupation, all Jewish men aged 18 to 45 years old were brought here and were ordered to perform humiliating acts.

Museums and galleries The two big archaeological museums are in the city centre, under the OTE Tower at the CHANTH Square. Note that Winter opening times are shorter than Summer opening times.

Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum. Andronikou st 6. Covers the history of Thessaloniki from prehistory to Roman times.

Museum of Byzantine Culture. Focuses on Early Christian life in the Byzantine Empire, with exhibits on churches, cities and Dwellings, cemeteries, castles and monastic communities. Declared best Museum of Europe in 2005.

Thessaloniki is home to many other museums, mostly archaeological and ethnographic.

Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art.

Atatürk House. The house where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was born.

State Museum of Contemporary Art, Thessaloniki.

Museum of Ancient Greek, Byzantine, and Post Byzantine Musical Instruments.

Museum of Cinematography in Thessaloniki.

Folklife and Ethnological Museum of Macedonia and Thrace.

Thessaloniki Zoological Garden. A small municipal zoo with many hilly climbs. The exhibited animals are mostly goats, sheep, ducks, deer, and peacocks. Admission is free.

Do

Cultural Route public bus tour. OASTH launched a special “Cultural Route” to make the rich historical and cultural heritage of Thessaloniki more accessible. The bus departs from the White Tower for a 50-minute tour around the city's main historical and cultural monuments. The tour is supported by a telematics based audio-visual material (in Greek and English), as well as by printed leaflets (also in Greek and English).

Walk along the 12 km seafront promenade. Go to the beach. There are frequent ferry services from the Port and White Tower to the sandy beaches of Peraia, Neoi Epivates (and some to Agia Triada) - expect a 40 minute trip each way. These have a range of bars and restaurants. Football: the city has three soccer teams playing in Super League, the top tier. - PAOK FC play at Toumba Stadium (capacity 29,000) 2 km southeast of city centre. - Aris Thessaloniki play at Kleanthis Vikelidis Stadium (capacity 22,800) a further km south. - Iraklis were promoted to Super League in 2026. Their Kaftanzoglio Stadium (capacity 27,500) is 1 km inland from the White Tower.

Thessaloniki Concert Hall. The venue includes a main hall of 1,400 seats, designed by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki and inaugurated on 2 January 2000. The Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra plays Italian Operas and works of Greek composers.

Waterland. A large water park near Tagarades Hill. Free bus service starting at the city centre.

Yachting Thermaikos Gulf is a challenging place for yachting and sailing. Many days there are strong North winds but with low waves making sailing a fun and joy for all sailors. There are three sailing clubs in Thessaloniki and world championships take place here every year. There are a couple of yacht charter companies renting sailing yachts.

Discovery Yachting. Bareboat charter or skippered sailing yacht, also night time tours.

Nautilia Yachting. Licensed by the Greek National Tourism Organization, organizes skippered or bareboat yacht charters with a wide range of monohulls and catamarans for sailing.

World Naked Bike Ride. A celebration of Cycling, Environment, Body Freedom.

Thessaloniki Film Festival. Lively and youth-oriented

Buy

Clothing Tsimiski is the main fashion street, which runs parallel to Egnatia Road and is southwest of it, with shops such as Zara and H&M. Proxenou Koromila and Mitropoleos, the next streets towards the water, also have shops. You won't find many bargains, but the shopping area is conveniently small and full of cafes when you get too tired. For cheaper clothing, check out Egnatia Road.

Books Books and maps in various languages can be bought in stores such as:

Ianos bookshop. Books & art-objects, cultural events.

The Thessaloniki Book Fair is held annually in late spring.

Markets You can buy local food products, such as olive oil, sometimes at significantly lower prices than in nearby countries.

For food specialities, go to Modiano Market and try the Terpsis and Omega delicatessens (the most famous is Kosmas, but it specialises in Asian food).

Modiano Market. The traditional central food market, with hundreds of stalls selling meat, fish, fruit, vegetables (sometimes cheek-by-jowl, an unnerving experience for North Americans), cheap clothes and shoes, flowers, herbs and spices, near Aristotele Square. The indoor portion is closed for an extensive renovation. It was supposed to reopen in 2021, but as of August 2022 the work is ongoing. The shops in the back alleys are still good for a wander.

Kapani Market. The city's oldest market, with a wide variety of shops.

Sweets and pastries Any Greek will expect you to bring back sweets from Salonica.

Chatzis. It is famous for its collection of Greek Asia Minor sweets (politika glyka) originating from Constantinople.

Terkenlis. It is famous for its variety of "tsoureki", a sweet bread much like challah or brioche but containing spices too, covered and filled with several combinations of chocolates, creams, and nuts.

Elenidis. It is considered the expert in "trigona" (triangles made of thin phyllo dough layers and filled with cream).

Choureál. Very popular for its profiterole

Eat

Greeks consider Thessaloniki a gourmet city - but bear in mind that this refers to the excellent local specialities and cheap-and-cheerful ouzo taverns rather than to haute cuisine or a range of foreign restaurants. The latter are best avoided in Thessaloniki.

Try a crepe in one of the numerous crepe shops patronised by the student population at Gounari St, near Navarinou Sq. There are plenty of shops selling gyros. Usually there are pork and chicken gyros. During the winter you can try roasted chestnuts (kastana in Greek) that are sold from carts. During the summer one can buy boiled or roasted corn on the cob that is sold from carts. You can try stafidopsomo, a small bread with raisins, or koulouri a donut-shaped small bread with sesame. You can find them sold in a bakery or on carts.

For breakfast you can have a bougatsa, a type of cream pie, that Thessaloniki is famous for. You can accompany it with a cacao milk or coffee. For a carnivore's treat, try soutzoukakia: minced meat pellets either grilled (at the central market or rotisseries) and topped with chilli pepper flakes, or cooked in tomato and cumin sauce (Smyrna-style). For a late night (or early morning) meal try patsas (Tripe soup). Seafood: gemista kalamarakia (stuffed squid), mydopilafo (rice with mussels) or mydia saganaki (mussels in tomato sauce). A popular winter drink is hot sahlep (salepi), a creamy milk beverage. In the summer, drink frappé coffee, an iced coffee drink generally made from spray-dried instant coffee, water, sugar, and milk, the hallmark of postwar outdoor Greek coffee culture invented in 1957 in Thessaloniki International Fair.

Go for a meal in one of the many central ouzo restaurants (ouzeri). Accompany your ouzo or tsipouro with a battery of small dishes - by far the best way to eat in Salonica. Particularly good are the fava beans, octopus either grilled or in wine sauce and mussels (fried, or in pilaff, or with a hot cheese sauce, saganaki). If you see "boiled vegetables' on the menu in wintertime, you'll be amazed at how good they taste. Another typical winter salad is politiki, a combination of shredded cabbage and pickles.

Many fast food options are found on the Dimitriou Gounari Street (between Rotonda and the sea).

Evi Evan. A nice small place near the ancient market of Thessaloniki. Very cozy and nicely decorated. The personnel are very friendly and helpful and eager to make you feel welcome. Very nice place with traditional style and music. You will get nice plates and local drinks.

Verges Lagies. Reminiscent of old taverns from the 80s with very helpful staff and respect for the customer. Really nice charcoal grill food. Small bistro and worthwhile a try. Good quality for little money.

Pizza Chris. One of the nicest pizzas in Thessaloniki. Well made dough and incredible flavors.

Tarantoúla. Nice place with good vegan food. This is the best place to enjoy vegan mezze in Thessaloniki. You can find a decently sized menu with several options to choose from. The space is very alternative but small with some outdoor seating and expect to have to wait for seating if you arrive at peak hours. The beet salad is fresh and delicious.

Nostimo - The Art In Taste. Very tasty homemade food with lots of vegetables from their garden.

Ouzománia. This is a small tavern. One of the oldest ouzories. Kind staff and great atmosphere.

ΚΛΕΑ Fine Bakery. Cafe with light meals and takeaway.

Villa Luna. Ask to eat in the restaurant terrace - fantastic views at sunset.

Agora. Ouzo restaurant (ouzeri) in one of the most interesting old downtown areas.

To Manitari. Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood. Offers vegetarian options. Well-supplied with many regional Greek wines.

Omilos The Beach Club. Regional Greek ingredients.

Nea Diagonios. Here you can eat pork gyros and soutzoukakia from executive chef Ioannis Chantakis

Pire kai vradiazei. Great taverna, unique style, good food and some days (Th-Su) live music.

Toixo Toixo (Wall by Wall). An hipster hang-out, nice atmosphere, very expensive for the quality.

Tsarouchas. For those with adventurous tastes, preferably go after a hard night's drinking, for a "patsás" (tripe) soup, a delicious way to prevent a hangover.

Heavy Melon. Traditional Greek, Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern recipes. Also, a selection of desserts.

Goody's. It is the Greek fast-food chain. You will find classic hamburgers, also souvlaki, pasta and salads.

Apo Dyo Horia. Cretan and Pontian restaurant. Here, order raki rather than ouzo or tsipouro.

Lila Cafe Bistro. Traditional pies and sweets, croissant and dishes accompany the coffee or your drink. Porcelain miniatures and collective drinks are available for original gifts.

Pizza da Pepe. For the best pizzas in town head here.

Tombourlika. Great traditional ouzeri, with fresh fish and meat dishes and live rembetico music.

Odos Aristotelous. Most Salonicans know it as the "Lepen".

Zythos-Dore. An upmarket brasserie with a wide range of specialties and interesting ambiance.

Drink

Thessaloniki is by far the liveliest city in Northern Greece, maybe even the whole country. Most of the trendy bars at the old sea-front (Nikis Ave.) and around, many of the tavernas are either downtown or in the old city (Kastra). You can also find numerous bars and tavernas at Krini, an area in eastern Thessaloniki. If you want to check out what the whole bouzoukia scene is all about, try the clubs Pyli Axiou and Mamounia, at Vilka. You will also find a lot of night clubs, bars and restaurants in Ladadika, the neighbourhood with the old warehouses next to the port. The student area is around Kamara (the Arch of Galerius), with many cheaper cafes and bars.

If you will be in town during summer, take a ride on the floating bars plying the harbour. Every 2 hr or so they leave from the White Tower area for a short evening trip (30 min) in the Gulf of Thessaloniki. They play mostly ethnic and alternative foreign music.

Among the most popular places to drink a coffee or a beer are:

Aristotle Sq (Aristotelous) - The most popular tourist cafés and bars lie in the central square of the city and the homonymous street. One can find quiet cafes or noisy ones usually preferred by the young. Breakfast is also served, some restaurants are also available. Nikis’ Av - The centre’s seafront avenue is full of cafeterias usually crowded around the clock, available for coffee in daytime and beer or drink at night. Proxenou Kroromila St - Parallel to the seafront Nikis avenue is Pr. Koromila street with some cafés and bars. Iktinou pedestrian - Another place in the city with cafes and bars and a couple of restaurants. A "street beer" culture has been created by locals and students. People buy beer from the kiosks and hang out on the surrounding benches. This is probably one of the most economic ways to drink some Retsina and socialize with locals. Ladadika district - At the west side of the centre lies the picturesque neighbourhood of Ladadika (meaning: oil stores). Named this way by the many stores selling oil arrived from the adjacent harbour. This district used to be notorious but has been renovated, and many stone build warehouses now host the most known nightclubs with all sorts of music including traditional Greek bouzoukia.

Aretsou - Aretsou is in the southeast part of the city, in the Kalamaria District. In the seafront Plastira Av. are restaurants which change to bars during night featuring loud music and hosting many young. Karabournaki - A place in Kalamaria district hosting delicate bars, restaurants and pizzerias. All of them along Sofouli street next to the seashore. Boat bars - Quite interesting are the boats near the white tower’s seafront, which make a short trip around Thermaikos gulf where you can enjoy a late night city view. Most of them play ethnic and alternative foreign music. (The area around the old trains station) - A set of high-range café, bars, restaurants, disco, ouzeris some with live music at the city’s west. Valaoritou and Syggrou - A lot of Thessaloniki's nightlife has moved here. The old industrial centre has become a place for entertainment for everybody. Many bars, clubs and cafes may remind you of Berlin, or English pubs.

Mylos Club. Hosting concerts, events, exhibitions, music bands, famous Greek artists etc. Venue can change. Check their page on Facebook.

Sleep

Little Big House Hostel. This is a new hostel in Thessaloniki run by a brother and sister who are hosts. They have five rooms in a reconstructed house, each room with private bathroom and kitchenette and big lockers. There is also a common room and kitchen, and a nice, cozy garden area with tables and chairs. Welcome drink, maps of the city, wifi and linens, tea and coffee, all free.

Backpackers Refuge. Near the city centre (5-min bus ride) and the water front (7 min on foot) is well connected to the train station, bus station and the airport. 24 hr hot water, free linen, washing machine, kitchen, free city map, info available about Thess, and activities in northern Greece. Pick up and other transport options, free internet. Only a small capacity and advanced booking is recommended-staff is not present around the clock.

The Tourist Hotel. 2-star hotel, cheap, clean and welcoming. Single, double or triple rooms. Free WiFi.

Rex Hotel. Cheap hotel opposite the train station towards the centre. Only a 5-min walk from train station. Not great, but adequate.

Hotel Acropoli. Close to the train station. Clean but shabby rooms, most with a balcony.

Alexandria Hotel. Bang in the centre of Egnatia Str., with easy bus connections. Friendly staff. Snacks and laundry for extra charge.

RentRooms Thessaloniki. Travellers and backpackers hostel. Nice & clean rooms and dorms with balconies. Cafeteria garden for drinks and snacks near a green park. It is in city centre's university side, overlooking "Rotonda" UNESCO World Heritage Roman monument site. Cozy atmosphere and friendly staff really helpful. Available breakfast and bicycles. Free internet stations, WiFi in rooms and common areas.

There are many hotels in the area a few blocks north of Aristotelous. Some of these are a bit upmarket, but if business is slack it is worth shopping around - they might give you a good discount rather than turn you away.

Heaven Hotel. Between the hills of Tagarades with panoramic views of the city and Thermaico's gulf.

Zaliki Boutique Hotel. Boutique hotel in Thessaloniki city centre in a neo-classical building offering free wi-fi, free parking and free pick-up from airport.

El Greco Hotel. 3-star hotel in the heart of Thessaloniki. Free parking lot, VIP taxi service and free WiFi.

Rotonda. 3-star hotel entering the city of Thessaloniki. Free parking lot, VIP taxi service and free WiFi.

Hotel Luxembourg. 3-star hotel in neoclassical building next to the Thessaloniki seaside and Aristotelous square

Hotel Olympia. Boutique hotel in the centre of Thessaloniki.

Hotel Anessis. 3-star hotel next to Thessaloniki seaside and port with free Wi-Fi.

Tobacco Hotel. 4-star boutique hotel (formerly a tobacco warehouse).

Hotel Philippion. 4-star hotel in the heart of Seich-Sou Park, overlooking Thessaloniki and Thermaikos Golf.

Hotel Byzantio. In an all-green setting with sparkling water from the surrounding mountains, a few metres from the water mills, on an area of .

Amalia Hotel. 2-star hotel, in the centre of Thessaloniki, close to Aristotelous Square, all rooms with balcony and free WiFi.

a.d. Imperial Palace Thessaloniki Hotel. Boutique hotel in the city centre in a neo-classical building offering free wi-fi, free parking and free pick-up from airport.

Electra Palace Hotel Thessaloniki. 5-star hotel in the heart of Thessaloniki. 130 rooms and 8 suites, some of them with a view of Aristotelous square and the sea. The "Orizontes Pool Bar & Restaurant" provides superb view of Thermaikos gulf.

Makedonia Palace. One of the most prestigious hotels in Thessaloniki, on the waterfront.

Hyatt Regency Thessaloniki. 5-star hotel with 2 ballrooms, 5 meeting rooms and 3 boardrooms. 2 km from the largest casino in Europe.

Porto Palace Hotel. At the west entrance of the city, near the new harbour/port. It has direct access to the new financial district and it is 5 min away from the city centre and the shopping area.

Domotel Les Lazaristes Hotel. Nearby the major cultural centre of the city. The State Museum of Contemporary Art inspired its design philosophy.

Mediterranean Palace Hotel. 5-star hotel with views of Thermaikos Bay.

NOA Hotel. Recognized as one of the best hotels in Thessaloniki city center, this modern 4-star boutique hotel features stylish rooms with sea views, fast Wi-Fi, and upscale design amenities.