Yeghegnadzor.
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Overview

Yeghegnadzor (Եղեգնաձոր) is a town in Southern Armenia. This small city is a good spot from which to explore the surrounding sites for a few days, and in a fantastic area for hiking and spelunking.

Understand

The city is right by the main north-south highway and has comfortable accommodation and is a very typical town in Armenia for those who want an experience outside of Yerevan. Things to see in the area include the Areni wine country, the spectacular canyon and monastery in Noravank, the impressive Smbatabert Fortress/Tsakhats Kar Monastery area, the old Silk Road caravanserai of Selim, sitting on top of the world, lot of other monuments and a number of caves and cavern systems.

The name Yeghegnadzor consists of two Armenian words: yegheg (Armenian: եղեգ) meaning cane, and dzor (Armenian: ձոր) meaning valley. Thus, the name of the town means "valley of canes".

The settlement was first mentioned as Pondzatagh during the 5th century, however it had been settled long before this. The remains of the Urartian fortress near the town dates back to the 7th century BC.

During the Middle Ages, the Silk Road passed through the area. Part of it still links the town of Martuni with Yeghegnadzor. Many significant churches, monastic complexes, bridges and caravanserais were built in the region between the 10th and 13th centuries, when Yeghegnadzor was part of the Kingdom of Syunik under the rule of the Siunia dynasty.

At the beginning of the 16th century, Eastern Armenia fell under the Safavid Persian rule. Between the 16th and 17th centuries the region was a frequent battlefield between Turkic and Iranian tribes. As a result, many significant monuments and prosperous villages were destroyed and the population was displaced. In 1747, Yeghegnadzor became part of the newly-formed Nakhichevan Khanate. By the beginning of the 19th century, Yeghgnadzor was known as Keshishkend.

Following the end of the Russo-Persian War of 1826–28, it became part of the Russian Empire. Between 1918 and 1920 it was part of short-lived Republic of Armenia. After the Sovietization of Armenia, the town became one of the predominant centres of the resistance against the Soviet rule and formed the unrecognized Republic of Mountainous Armenia. However, after falling to the Bolsheviks in July 1921, it became part of the Armenian SSR.

The town was known as Keshishkend until 1935 when it was renamed Mikoyan after the Bolshevik leader Anastas Mikoyan. On 6 December 1956, the town was renamed Yeghegnadzor, restoring its historical name.

During the Soviet period, Yeghegnadzor was one of the industrial centres of the Armenian SSR, but today the economy of the town is based on the construction sector and food-processing industry.

Yeghegnadzor straddles both banks of the Gladzor River, a tributary of the Arpa River, by the main north-south highway. Located at 1,194 metres above sea level, the surrounding the lower and medium highlands are mainly semi-deserts. The town is immediately bordered by the village of Gladzor to the north.

The town has a hot-summer humid continental climate with average annual rainfalls of 400 mm and mountain-valley winds. The average air temperature in January is 5-6°C, with a coldest temperature of -22°C and highest of +35°C in July. The climate is mild with snowy winters and warm summers.

Get in

All transport heading north or south in the region passes by Yeghegnadzor on the main highway.

By bus Marshrutkas and buses can be caught going as far as the Iranian border or Nagorno-Karabakh to the south.

Yerevan Marshrutka and share taxis from Yerevan to Yeghegnadzor leave between 08:00 and 18:00 from a street close to the Gortsaranayin metro station. If you’re coming from the Yerevan city centre, it’s one stop beyond Sasuntsi David, the metro station for the main train station.

Once you get off at Gortsaranayin, exit the metro and head right. Continue walking straight ahead along the road pictured below until you hit a roundabout. Once there, turn left, cross the street, walk about 100m, and you should see some marshrutkas lined up across the street. There is a cafe and several small convenience store stalls here as well. You’ll most likely have drivers asking you if you’re looking for Yeghegnadzor once you’re in the area. Marshrutkas typically leave every hour, but it’s more likely they leave once mostly full. It is best to get there before 11:00, otherwise there may not be more.

Buses and marshrutkas to other destinations in the south of Armenia (such as Goris or Stepanakert), depart from a bus station on Sevan St adjacent to Yerevan's Sasuntsi Davit metro station.

In Yeghegnadzor, marshrutkas to Yerevan leave when full from by the triangular intersection of Mikoyan Street (H47) with the main highway. There is a bus station 100 m away on Mikoyan Street but it is not used by the marshrutkas.

Southern destinations Marshrutkas heading from Yeghegnadzor to southern destinations such as (Goris) operate from the main highway on the other side from its intersection with Mikoyan Street (H47). There are often a couple of people standing and waiting, and some taxi drivers as well.

Marshrutkas to Goris, Stepanakert and Meghri will start driving past Yeghegnadzor around 09:30 each day. There will be several marshrutkas each hour 10:00-13:00. After 13:00, things slow down. There likely won’t be any more marshrutkas after 14:00. (As of Apr 23: only 2 buses to Goris, 1 to Kapan, they pass through around 10:30, 16:30 and 10:00 (Kapan))

When you see a marshrutka coming, flag it down and ask if it is going in your direction. Do not be disheartened if they do not stop—it is because they do not have enough space.

Make sure to show up a little early to ensure you have time to catch one that still has space. The earlier, the better. The journey is approximately 2 hr.

By car The M-2 Motorway that connects Armenia from north to south, passes through the town. On the other hand, Yeghegnadzor is domestically connected with other parts of Vayots Dzor through the H-40 and H-47 Roads.

A private taxi is 100 dram/km. Taxis charge 12-15,000 dram to Tatev or Goris.

Get around

On foot Walking around much of Yeghegnadzor is nice, as is hiking to some of the closer sights.

By bus Marshrutka and shared taxis from local village destinations arrive at the bus and taxi stop in Yeghegnadzor at the top end of Narekatsky St in the morning, carrying people from the region who work in town. They return to their destinations in the late afternoon.

Hourly marshrutkas to Vayk (200 dram) and one 14:00 bus to Jermuk (700 dram) also depart from by the intersection of Mikoyan Street (H47) with the main highway.

By road A car or taxi to further afield sites is quite helpful however.

Taxis can be found by the intersection of Mikoyan Street (H47) with the main highway.

Many car owners act as taxi drivers and make a nice conversation.

By thumb There is only one main highway running to the south of Armenia so it is not a problem to try to hitchhike. Armenians outside of Yerevan are very friendly. If you try to hitch stand on the side of the road a little outside of town on the highway leading to Yeghegnadzor and hold out your hand. Do not be surprised if they driver who picks you up invites you to his home for horovats (Armenian BBQ).

See

Areni Wine Country. Just a couple of villages from Yeghegnadzor is Areni, famous for its wine from grapes of the same name. Nice setting and village, with a couple of the wineries in the area offering tastings.

Arjeri and Mozrov Caves. These rough caves, found very close to one another, were mapped during Soviet times, but there are no markers, no lights, no facilities, no decent road to them. Not many people know them well either, so finding a guide may be tough, but definitely necessary. Mozrov is only 700 m long, but has the nicer formations. Arjeri cave, meaning bears cave, is a very extensive cave system, with some good formations, small pools of water, and both have bats.

Gladzor University Ruins and Tanahat Monastery. Another good day hike from Yeghegnadzor, these adjacent sites are easy to find by following the road up past Vernishen village.

Noravank Monastery. Hands down the most popular site in the area, this monastery of stunning beauty is in an equally stunning canyon setting. The brick-red cliffs opposite the beige stones of the monastery offer an unforgettable contrast, as does the climb up the stone steps jutting out of one of the churches, to a second story church on top of the one on the first story. The carvings are also very worthwhile, and the monastery has excellent facilities (and maybe food) for visitors as well.On site there is also a museum (500 dram), a gift shop and a restaurant (which is open from 09:00 to 21:00).

Selim Caravanserai. If you want to see where silk road traders laid their weary heads a thousand years ago, head up the winding road to Selim Caravanserai. You can see the entrance/bar area, and the large cavernous room the guests would share with each other, and their animals. The room has convenient troughs for the animals to eat and drink from!

Smbataberd Fortress. A serious natural fortification with a serious fortress on top. This narrow sheer cape is capped with one of Armenia's biggest fortresses. The views of the valley are impressive and the sheer drop a bit scary. Impossible to imagine this fortress ever being taken by force.

Spitakavor Monastery and Boloraberd Fortress. These two sites are quite close to each other, and a great day hike from Yeghegnadzor. A local guide, topographic maps or a GPS might be handy, but these very off-road sites (also accessible by car, preferably 4x4) are rarely visited.

Tsakhats Kar Monastery. Up in the mountains is the Monastery of Tsakhats Kar. A nice hike from the village below, or an offroad drive for those with a serious 4x4. Time seems to have forgotten this place, but you need not. It's across from Smbataberd (see below), and together they make a great outing.

Yeghegis Village sites. This village, in a beautiful site in the canyon below Smbataberd (which may be better accessed from the opposite side of the canyon), has the very unusual triangular shaped Zorats Church, where the congregation is meant to stand outdoors. It also has another nice small church and much rougher one, and ancient Jewish cemetery across the river below, and don't be surprised to stumble upon women baking lavash in the traditional underground tonir over!

Arpa Protected Landscape. The first community-managed protected area in Armenia that includes the area between the villages of Khachik, Gnishik and Areni approximately. It's managed by the Arpa Environmental Foundation that can organize hiking tours, jeep tours and animal watching tours. You can check their Facebook page for more information and contact.

Yeghegnadzor Regional Museum. Holds many artefacts founds from the region. You can also see a famous cross-stone or khachkar by master Momik. Another interesting piece is a bear-shaped ritual vessel.

Other sites Smaller sites if you have the time or are in the area.

Areni Church. Overlooking the village, this nearly thousand-year-old small church has been immaculately restored.

Arkazi S. Khach Church. Plain church said to have a piece of the true cross buried in its walls.

Jrovank. A small cave with water seeping through and a little chapel set up inside.

Khotakenats Vank Monastery. An interesting little monastery in Khachik Village, overlooking Nakhichevan.

Magili Cave. Another cave system, in the canyon leading to Noravank. Deep system, but few formations.

Martiros rock-cut church. A small and simple church carved into the stone mountain above Martiros Village.

Do

Canyon Loop Tour. Hire a taxi (or drive) for the whole day in a loop, following the river canyons surrounding Yeghegnadzor. Go up the Yeghegis River past Getap, bearing right at Shatin Village (monastery above), and head to Yeghegis (3 churches, ancient Jewish cemetery), continue up to Arates Monastery, then head back down along the Herher River to Herher Village (with the cool S. Sion monastery and fun little Chiki Vank Monastery) before continuing down to the Arpa river and heading north to Yeghegnadzor (between Hermon and Karmrashen the road is unpaved, only recommend for off-road vehicles).

Basket weaving craft class. Arthur Petrosyan is an artisan from Yeghegnadzor who works with willow branches to make various household items and accessories such as all kinds of baskets, wine bottle holders, lamps, furniture, etc. He also gives classes and you can learn to weave a simple plate or a basket. His house is typical of Yeghegnadzor. He works under a brand name Yegheg. Arthur speaks Armenian, Russian and a bit of English.

Doll making craft class. Armine Aghajanyan runs Mosh Studio atelier and shop in Yeghegnadzor. You can browse her shop that has many handmade items on the ground floor and you can take a fun doll making class on the first floor.

Cooking classes at Under the Walnut Tree. Under the Walnut Tree is a family owned restaurant (although it also has one room for an overnight stay). You can have lunch or dinner here with a prior reservation. And you can take various cooking classes such as Armenian sweet gata baking, vodka distillation and others.

Buy

Wine – This being Armenia's wine country, you can buy wine in huge jugs on the side of the road, or bottles from a winery. You can also buy young wine, which is not very fermented yet, called majar. Wineries: Areni Wine Factory, Getnatoun Winery, Hin Areni Winery, Momik Winery and Wine Cube, Old Bridge Winery Trinity Canyon Vineyards. Yeghegnadzor Buried Cheese – This traditional cheese is made nowhere else in the world. Goats milk and herbs are mixed and sealed in a clay pot and buried in the mountains for 6 months, at which point it is salty and sharp. Cheese connoisseurs love this, and you can buy some to take with you. Artwork from Artyom Yerkat – Artyom Ghazaryan is a professional artisan working with various materials but especially he creates original works using special metal techniques. He doesn't have a shop but his house is also his studio. You can call in advance to see if he accepts visitors. www.facebook.com/artyom.yerkat Becore Stone Carving – A shop in the overflow lot of Noravank just below the main lot that sells lots of hand made goods in a no pressure environment. Amazing Khachkars and other stonework as well other other handmade goods.

Eat

There is a large food court/buffet restaurant on the northern side of highway about 150 metres to the east from its junction with Momilk St.

There are many barbecue restaurants, many of them with primarily outdoor seating along the highway near Yeghegnadzor, along the Arpa River. In Yeghegnadzor there is a small new restaurant/cafe which opened in 2006 in a central location, with indoor or patio seating.

Drink

Wherever you can eat, you can drink in these parts. Drinking means wine, vodka or beer, or homemade liqueurs.

Sleep

Remodeled Soviet Hotel. This larger old hotel has been remodeled and is open for business. If you're a very large group, it's your only real choice in town.

Antoine's Guest House. Owned by a Canadian-Armenian couple with a very colorful background. Additional email contact:

Gohar's Guest House. Extremely comfortable family-run bed & breakfast. The guests have the run of the upstairs, and a very nice garden and outdoor sitting area. Dinner available on request (recommended !!). Free internet. They can organise excursions in the area. The daughter speaks good English.

Gohar's (2) family guesthouse. Russian, Armenian, German and partly English spoken staff. Large, wood panaled rooms with large beds and nice views. There are two guesthouses with the name "Gohar" on the same road.

Hotel Arpa. Opened in 2010. Four singles, six doubles/twins and four double business rooms. Here you can also enjoy Armenian and European cousin.

Noravank B&B. A cozy family-run guest house near Yeghegnadzor (in the village of Chiva), 12 km away from the Noravank Monastery. It is a very comfortable, clean and quiet place, with 5 fully renovated rooms. The owners tend a vegetable garden, and all meals are fresh and home-made. They are also very kind and serviceable to visitors, and speak some French and Armenian and Russian. The house is about 700 m off the main road.

Ruzan Karapetyan. An Armenian family with a very nice, large home near the center of Yeghegnadzor that can accommodate up to 7 people. The family knows German, French, Armenian and Russian. They can help organize trips around the area and they are very familiar with the area. Upon request, the family can cook dinner with foods fresh from their garden. Check in and check out times are flexible.

Shushan B&B. A friendly quiet guesthouse hidden behind a large hedge. Free internet. Shushan who owns the B&B in conjunction with her husband speaks sufficient English to get by, while their young son speaks excellent English.

Terjanian Guest House. Stay with the Terjanians when they're in town. A Canadian-Armenian couple with a nice home and a very colorful background, living in Armenia part to full time for years, who know the town and its residents quite well. They speak English, French and Armenian.

Crossway Camping. Campsite where you can camp, stay in a recycled bus, open-air houses or in a few rooms inside the building. There is a kitchen, restaurant, pool, showers. It's located right after you make a turn to Yeghegnadzor coming from Areni. You will see a signpost with Crossway Camping on it.