Ulcinj.
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Overview

Ulcinj (Cyrillic: Улцињ, Albanian: Ulqin or Ulqini) is the most southern coastal town of Montenegro. In 2011, it had a population of 10,700.

Understand

Ulcinj is the southern most major town along the Montenegrin coast before reaching the border with Albania. The significant majority of the population is ethnic Albanian. Due to the town's nice location on the coast it is a major tourist destination of much of the Albanian population of Kosovo. Millennials usually speak English, older generations speak Italian, German or Russian.

Get in

To Bar you can either take a normal bus or catch a 'combi' minibus (about half an hour, hourly). From Kosovo during the tourist season there are frequent buses leaving from the major cities. These can rarely be booked advance online, but a stroll round a major city centre will immediately show what is on offer (e.g. try the Bill Clinton Boulevard in Pristina. Buses leave from both Pristina and Ulcinj (at 19:00 each day, 11 hours), making about 4 rest stops on the way (Bar – Podgorica – Pec (Kosovo)). From Albania there are 'combi' minibuses that come from Durres in Albania to Ulcinj, although they most likely are not official bus operations, so you'll have to do some asking around. There are also daily departures to Shkodra, Albania (06:00 and 12:30). These are, in theory, well connected with Albanian 'furgons' from Tirana and Durres. It takes 1 hour to Shkoder by "private" cab. If you are unable to find a bus or furgon you may try your luck in the area around the bus station. People may approach you (or you can just ask people) offering to take you to nearby Albanian towns and cities. There is only one bus daily from Shkoder, Albania at 09:00 in front of Hotel Rozafa. (Summer 2022) Also direct buses (three times per week) to Split, Croatia via Dubrovnik. Buses to Novi Pazar, Serbia Sunday evening buses to Skopje, North Macedonia (via Shkodra (Albania) – Ohrid – Tetovo)

Get around

Ulcinj is a small city, you will have no problem getting around by foot, but keep in mind that some parts are very hilly. The hilly roads can become quite slippery when wet and many of the smaller streets have no sidewalks. If you're walking on such a street, keep to the dry areas and step aside when you hear an approaching vehicle to let them pass. Many people drive fast even with pedestrians on the road.

There are many stairs that lead down the hills that can be used to avoid long winding roads, but you'll have to look for the entrances, or use Google Maps Satellite imagery to see where the stairs are; they're most marked and they often look like they lead into someone's home.

See

Ulcinj Old Town. The oldest and most attractive cultural part of Ulcinj. It is an ancient Illyrian castle built by Ancient Greeks, conquered by various other nations, like Romans, Byzantines, Serbs, Venetians and Ottomans, and all of them having an impact on its architecture..

Svač. Svač is medieval town in ruins located near Šasko lake. There are ruins of some 13 century churches, the legend says there were 365 churches in total. Built by Slavs, it was conquered by Mongols and Ottomans.

Pasha's Mosque. A Ottoman-built mosque in 1719 by admiral Kılıç Ali Paşa is one of the oldest mosques in Montenegro. It is the only complex that has a hamam (Turkish bath) in the country.

Clock Tower. An Ottoman clock tower built in 1754.

Monument Freedom. Communist monument built by Serbian sculptor Miodrag Živković in 1985.

Do

Ulcinj is a splendid central location for exploring Montenegro's South Coast region (from Bar to Skadar Lake to Ada Bojana) and parts of Albania. The Ulcinj South Coast region boasts some of the most interesting adventure, historical and eco tours, and vacation beach stays in all of the Adriatic.

Velika Plaža Beach. There are good beach spots in the area, including some rocky ones in the southern part of town. The longest sandy beach in Montenegro, Velika Plaža, is near by. At the Southern end of this 12-km-long beach there is Ada Bojana.

Ada Bojana. Ada Bojana, a triangular island with sandy beaches, formed by a river delta of the Bojana River and the Adriatic Sea. The island is a favourite spot for kitesurfers and windsurfers and it has a large nudist beach for those so inclined.

Ušće (begins just on opposite side of Ada Bojana island and stretch in one direction to Velika plaža and in other direction to the Bojana River coast). Area is very similar to Ada Bojana, with two main differences. There is no nudist beach and place is filled with campers and young people looking for rest during the day and party in the night. Go for a walk after sunset when the main street fills with people promenading and taking some fresh air. For the more adventuresome you can take the 'combi' towards the Albanian border (but not crossing it) getting off on the first road heading towards Lake Skadar near the town of Brajše. Once you get to the peak of the mountain range you'll be standing almost exactly on the Albanian and Montenegrin border. You'll be able to look out over one of the most magnificent lakes in Europe as well as get a good view of the Adriatic coast, Albania and Montenegro. Continue hitchhiking up the lake, you'll get to see some of the most rural untouched villages in the Balkans. The southern half of the lake shore is populated by ethnic Albanians while the northern half all the way up to the town of Virpazar is populated by Montenegrins. There is very little travel between the two communities so there are almost no buses that run the course of the highway meaning you'll either have to walk or hitchhike. The people driving the road though few and far between seem more than willing to take hitchhikers. If you camp (which is a good idea) there are some camp sites about halfway between Virpazar and Arbnez. A former salt factory just east of the city is now a Flamingo Reservation, entrance is free.

Eat

Example: one raw fish is about 500-600 grams, but when cleaned and cooked, it's around 200 grams. You get charged for 500-600 grams. If you see "scallop" on the menu anywhere, it's most likely not seafood but meat (veal). The great majority of restaurants serve halal food, and thus pork can be rarely found. Like in almost all Balkan towns you can find very good burek and ćevapi. Ulcinj's Albanians are one of the best and most skilled sweet food makers and bakers in former Yugoslavian area.

Budget Near the beach stalls sell kebab and hamburgers.

Fast food cafe. Serve quite good falafel, french fries, kebabs. The owner seems to be from Middle East so he knows how to do this kind of food right.

Restaurant "Old Town". Amazingly fast prepared and good-tasting meals. One of the best options in the city. Big variety of food but mainly pizzas, pastas. Nice personnel, relaxed atmosphere. This place has a second floor terrace with fantastic views over the bay.

Restaurant Bella Vista. Extensive choice of food. Tastes quite good. But the portions aren't particularly large. Not a bad choice.

La Tavola. Popular among tourists. But the food is of nothing special, even below average. They also provide complimentary drinks after you paid the bill.

Terra Promessa. Offering more reasonably priced food in the Old Town, but with spectacular sea views. Service is excellent and their staff can speak English, German, Russian, and Serb-Croat.

Sapore di Mare. Fresh fish and meat.

Splurge There are lots of new restaurants in Stari grad (old town) that serve a wide range of food. Many of the restaurants have fantastic views of the ocean right from your table.

Restaurant Antigona. Highly advertised restaurant. Serves only fish and other seafood.

Drink

Best bars are in area on the Mala plaža beach in the town, just beneath Old Town.

Sleep

Accommodation is plentiful in Ulcinj, ranging from resort hotels to private accommodations. The resort hotels in Ulcinj are each in the process of renovation and reconstruction, as most have been privatized from former government agencies.

Hostel Pirate. The first hostel in town, it has a large and cozy common area and a very well equipped kitchen with a dining area. It also has a large front yard with a barbecue that is free to use. Easy walking distance from the bus station and old town.

Apartments Sidro. There are 40 beds in fifteen rooms.

Antigona Apartment. Adjacent to Restaurant Antigona. Incredibly gracious host who speaks a little English. However, her daughter helps run the lodge and speaks fluent English. Fantastic balcony for watching the sunset.