Tehran.
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Overview

Tehran (also spelled Teheran) (Persian: تهران), is the capital city of Iran. A bustling metropolis of 14 million people, it sits at the foot of the towering Alborz mountain range. Tehran is a cosmopolitan city, with great museums, parks, restaurants, and warm friendly people. It deserves at least a few days of your Iranian itinerary.

Understand

The city can be roughly divided into two parts - north and south. The northern districts of Tehran are more prosperous, modern, cosmopolitan and expensive while southern parts are less attractive but cheaper.

At the time of the Zand dynasty, it was a little town that was significant from a strategic point of view. The first of the Qajar kings, Agha Mohammed Khan, named Tehran as the country's capital in 1778, and most of its growth started during the reign of a subsequent Qajar monarch, Fath-Ali Shah. The castle that Agha Mohammed Khan had built was to contain the new majestic buildings.

At the same time, the city's population doubled. Due to the increasing significance of the city, gates, squares and mosques were built and it was at the time of Nassereddin Shah that the city's master sketch was prepared and modern streets were constructed. Later, huge central squares like Toopkhaneh square (now Imam Khomeini) and quite a few military buildings were built. Even though the Qajar dynasty was in a period of decline, Tehran soon took the shape of a modern city. The structure of large government buildings, new streets, recreation centres, urban service organizations, and academic and methodical centres was started, even as most of the old gates and buildings were destroyed and the city's old architectural fabric replaced by a contemporary one.

Tehran has also earned itself an unenviable reputation as a smog-filled, traffic-clogged and featureless sprawl of concrete bursting at the seams with 14 million residents. But you can also find an endless number of nice and cosy places in and around the city - if you know where to look. Tehran is a city of more than 800 parks, all well-kept. The city is nearly a mile high above sea level and as a result is cooler than other cities in the Middle East. Still, summer temperatures are very hot, averaging 33°C (91°F) in July and frequently exceeding 38°C (100°F). The air tends to be very dry.

A combination of factors make Tehran a pleasant place to visit: the dry climate which is cool in the evenings, the proximity of the mountains, the parks and gardens where flowers blossom all through the year, the alleys of trees in the avenues or even smaller streets, and even the water that runs down from the upper city along deep and wide gutters which look like small rivers during spring. The Alborz range on the north of Tehran, which hosts the highest peak in Iran, provides fantastic conditions for ski lovers in the winter. In winter, the mountain hotels and ski clubs at Shemshak, and Dizine are very busy. There is some world-class skiing to be done in the resorts just north of Tehran.

Get in

For information on Iranian visas please refer the Iran#visas page. By plane

Getting there and away: By metro – The easiest way to reach the city center. Line number 8 connects Airport Terminal A with Metro Line 1 (red line) (75,000 rials, that can be used for the full network, Mar 2019). Runs irregularly: 06:50, 08:10, 09:30, 10:50, 12:10, 13:30, 14:50, 16:10, 17:30, 18:50, 20:10. For Metro Line 1 (red) there is a metro from IKA to Tehran during daytime—the trains run hourly (Sep 2017). By bus – To and from the city (e.g. Haram Metro station) every 30-60 min 07:00-23:00. There are unconfirmed reports of a shuttle bus operating between IKIA and Mehrabad Airport every 4–5 hours. The drive to/from the city center takes 45 minutes without traffic, but can take upwards of 90 minutes with traffic. There is a booth organizing taxis right outside the arrivals hall. You can also bargain with taxis dropping off passengers at the arrivals hall because otherwise they would have to go back to Tehran empty. Shuttle taxis and green minibuses operate between the airport and Shahed Station on the red line of the metro. This can be a convenient option going to the airport from town, but finding the shuttle taxis at the airport will be difficult as many don't stop there. At 7,000 rials for a metro ticket and 40,000 rials for a shuttle taxi (they will try to rip you off or charge for bringing in luggage even if there is space, so make sure to only occupy one seat if you don't want to pay extra), it is probably the cheapest option from town that doesn't require waiting a long time for the bus (shuttle taxis leave when full). At Shahed station, get out to the parking area (there is only one exit and you can't miss it) and on the very left you will see green minibuses. It takes about 30-40 min from there to the airport. Last one departs around 21:30.

Despite the warnings in some travel guides, there is no exit fee for foreign travellers, neither in Mehrabad nor in Imam Khomeini Airport. The exit fee applies to foreign travellers only when leaving Iran on land or by sea.

There is at least one train per day (some overnight) from the Iranian cities such as Mashhad, Isfahan, Tabriz, Kerman, Yazd, Sari, Gorgan, Ahvaz and Bandar Abbas. Domestic tickets can be bought at any station, from travel agencies or online from various train operator websites, such as Raja, Fadak, BonRail , Joopar, and Behtarinsafar. You could also use one of Iranian OTAs to buy your tickets online.

The train from Turkey resumed in March 2025. Eastbound it leaves Van on Monday and Thursday at 20:00, calling at Tabriz about 06:15 next morning and Tehran 12 hours later. Westbound it leaves Tehran around 12:30 on Wednesday and Sunday, calling at Tabriz at 01:30 and reaching Van at 11:00 next morning. Buses run from Van to Ankara and Istanbul, or cross the lake to Tatvan for the train to Ankara.

By car Traffic is very congested but has improved with the completion of several new tunnels and highways (referred to as autobahns by the locals) across the city. You can drive in from Turkey and the southern parts of Iran fairly easily. Although Iran has always had a reputation for a high number of driving accidents, the police have cracked down on accidents and driving is now safer than before. It is possible to rent a car at IKA airport, Mehrabad and in the city.

If you are going to use roads and ground transportation, there's a website maintained by the government's Ministry of Transportation and Urban Development available here or here that publishes roads' statuses. You might need to use Google Translate to understand the text when navigating through the pages.

By bus Almost every city and far-flung village in Iran has bus services to Tehran-- hundreds of buses that pour in and out of the capital each day. Most buses arrive at one of four major bus terminals:

Get around

Getting around traffic-clogged, sprawling Tehran is a true test of patience. While taxis are your best bet, they are pricier here than the rest of the country. A large local bus network will also take you almost anywhere you need to go, as long you can make sense of the routes and Persian line numbers. The true star of Tehran's transport system, however, is the metro.

By bus Tehran has an inexpensive but confusing bus network. Some require prepaid contactless card (min 5,000 rials), which can be bought from booths beside the bus stops and metro stations used when you get off the bus, and some should be paid by cash (ranging from 1,000-4,000 rials). The buses are partitioned in two sections, men-only (the front section) and women-only (the back section).

In the BRT lines, the women-only section is at the front. Also, the fee is paid on the station, using the prepaid contactless card (shared with Metro), or paying to the guard.

Since bus numbers, route descriptions and other information are in Persian, your best bet is to look confused at a bus terminal; a local will surely stop to help. Each bus line has a certain and almost invariable path but only people know exactly which bus stations exist for a certain road. You shouldn't expect a map or guides even in Persian showing the bus network or bus stations. Even asking the bus driver wouldn't be a great help for you to find your way either. If you get in a bus and looking for a certain station to alight, ask one to help you - you will find many people wish to help you to find your way, most of the time.

Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) The BRT buses are colored in red. BRTs has special lines and travels very quickly from Azadi square (west of Tehran) directly to the East (Terminal-e-Shargh). Railway square (south of Tehran) directly to the north (Tajrish square). Azadi square to free university (northwest). Azadi Square to South Terminal and parkway bridge (north of Tehran) to jomhuri square. In high-traffic hours (07:00-09:00 & 16:00-20:00), it is the best way to traveling. BRT has many stations near main streets. Although you may not find an empty seat on the bus because of the crowds, people give their place to you if they know you are a tourist. The women's and men's seats and queues are separate.

Tehran's metro system has seven lines that will whisk you quickly from one end of the city to the other without having to deal with the noise, pollution and chaos of Tehrani traffic. However, many residents have decided to leave their cars and commute by metro, so expect huge crowds during rush hours.

There are seven lines but the two most useful are lines 1 (north to south- from Tajrish Station to Haram-e-Motahar Station) and 2 (east to west) which connect at the central Imam Khomeini station. All stations have signs in Persian and English. Trains run every 10 minutes or less on rush hours (15 minutes on Fridays and holidays) from around 05:30 to 23:00 every day.

Line 6 (the pink line) was opened in Apr 2019 from Shohada Square on line 4 to Dowlat Abad. One intermediate station is open. The rest of the line and its stations are still under construction.

There are ticket booths at every station. There are two dedicated women-only carriages at each end of the train. Women can anyway choose to travel aboard the other carriages but rarely do.

There are a few apps for Android and iOS devices to assist passengers on using the metro. You can try downloading the Tehran Metro app which is made for foreign travellers. First you can find yourself on a Google map (with stations marked on it) and your destination to decide which station you can get in and to which you want to arrive. After that you can select them on the stations map to get a textual explanation on taking directions and line changes along with a travel time estimation.

As with the rest of the country private and shared taxis abound in Tehran, although you may find flagging down a shared taxi more difficult amid the traffic and chaos, while private taxis are more expensive than in the smaller cities. See the Get Around information on Iran for details on flagging a taxi. If you want to get around by shared taxi, your best bet is to hop from square to square, as drivers will be reluctant to pick you up if your shouted destination deviates too far from their route. In each square you will find certain places where the private taxis are lined up in a queue and drivers call for passengers to a destination. (mostly happening during the times when the number of waiting taxis exceeds the number of passengers). In this case, they would wait until the car gets full of passengers (mostly one person at front and 3 people at back, excluding the driver). Otherwise the people have to line up in a queue waiting for the taxis to come. This is the case during rush hours (approximately 07:00-08:00 and 17:00-20:00). All these depend upon finding their regular station in the square. You can also ask them to alight sooner than your destination wherever you like but you have to pay their total fee up to destination. Most drivers are very poor at English though.

Snapp is the Iranian version of Uber in Tehran. You need to have a local SIM and to install an app, available in English and French. Although the drivers may not be good English speakers, the support line speaks English well and can handle the communication problems between you and the driver.

Motorcycle taxis are common. You'll see plenty of these drivers standing at the side of the road calling "motor" at all who pass by. Motor taxi operators can seem even more suicidal than the average Tehran driver.

See

The Azadi Tower. The longstanding symbol of Tehran was constructed to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian empire, combines elements of Sassanid and Islamic architecture. The entrance of the tower is directly underneath the main vault and leads into the Azadi Museum on the basement floor. Do not sit on the grass! Officers chase away people.

Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini. The gigantic mausoleum is on the southern edge of the city. The sheer size of the shrine/shopping centre is enough to make the trip worth it. Women can borrow chadors at entrance. Bags have to be left for free at one of the compound doors.

Milad Tower. 435-m-high Milad tower is the fourth-tallest tower in the world and 12th-tallest freestanding structure in the world, and it is visible from almost everywhere in Tehran. Tickets to enter the observation lounge must be reserved well in advance. There are several restaurants in and around the tower, and a mediocre art gallery.

Golestan Palace. The oldest of the historic monuments in Tehran. The complex consists of 17 palaces, museums, and Halls. The Golestan (Rose Garden) citadel is one of mainly visited places in Tehran, which was the Qajars' royal residence, and its garden is an oasis of coolness and peace in the heart of the city. The major building, architecturally unpretentious, houses a museum with objects from the Qajar period in the self-important style of last century. In the Golestan garden, a one-story pavilion to the right and a short distance from the entrance, shelters one of the best organized museums in Tehran. It encloses about thirty showcases presenting almost everything related to Iran, which makes up the critical originality of Iranian life in a variety of provinces of the country. Golestan Palace was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013.

Takht Marmar. A spectacular terrace (iwan) was built in 1806 by order of Fath Ali Shah Qajar (r. 1797-1834). Adorned by paintings, marble-carvings, tile-work, stucco, mirrors, enamel, woodcarvings, and lattice windows; the throne embodies the finest of Iranian architecture. The Marble Throne is one of the oldest buildings of the historic Arg. The existing throne, which is situated in the middle of the terrace (iwan), is made of the famous yellow marble of Yazd province.

Khalvat Karim Khani. This building was a part of the interior residence of Karim Khan Zand. The basic structure of it is similar to Takht-e-Marmar. There is a small marble throne inside the terrace. The structure is much smaller than Takht-e-Marmar and it has much less ornamentation. It seems extraordinary, but the valuable gravestone of Nasser-ol-Din Shah found its way to this quite corner of the Palace. This marble stone with a craved image of Nasser-ol-Din Shah is indeed a site to behold.

Hoze Khaneh. The Hoze Khaneh was used as a summer chamber during the Qajar ear. A special cooling system pumped water form a subterranean system of streams (qanats) into small ponds inside the chambers. This system is no longer in use. European paints housed here.

Negar Khaneh. Here are the paintings of the royal court, with the European paints housed in the Hose Khaneh and the works of Iranian painters housed in the Negar Khaneh (the Gallery). Meant to show the evolution of painting in Iran during the Qajar era, the works of Iranian painters are exhibited in two sections. Housed in the southern part of the Negar Khaneh are the works of early Qajar masters such as Mirza Baba, Mehr Ali Afshar, Ali Akbar Khan Mozaien-ol-Douleh, Aboul Hassan Sani (Sanie-ol-Molk) who was Kamal-ol-Molk’s uncle.

Talar Berelian. The Hall was built by Nasser-ol-Din Shah build to replace another hall called Talar Bolour (Crystal Hall). Built by Fath Ali Shah the Bolour Hall had been laid waste by the damp. The Berelian Hall is famous for its mirror work and chandeliers.

Niavaran Palace. This is a historical complex which consists of several buildings and a museum. The Saheb-Qaranieh Palace (صاحبقرانیه), from the time of Naser al-Din Shah of Qajar dynasty, is also inside the complex.

Masoudieh Palace. Built in 1879 for the prince Mass’oud Mirza - the son of Nasseredin Shah, the governor of Isfahan.

Saadabad Palace. A palace built by the Pahlavi dynasty of Iran in the Shemiran area of Tehran. The complex was first inhabited by Qajar monarchs and royal family in the 19th century. Parts of the Saadabad Palace compound are museums, in which visitors can roam through and look at the rich history of Iran. The following museums make up the complex: Klara Abkar Painting Museum, Hossein Behzad (miniature) Paintings Museum, Abkar Miniature Museum, Fine Arts Museum (18th & 19th century European paintings), Kamaleddin Behzad Miniature Museum, Mahmoud Farshchian Miniature Museum, - Mellat Palace Museum, Military Museum (موزه نظامی), Mir Emad Calligraphy Museum, Ethnological Research Museum, Iranian National Museum of War Green Museum (Shah Reza Summer Palace), Water Museum (keeping, restoring and revenue operation of water in Iran). Rojat Palace, Ebrat Palace (Mother), Vessels Museum (Ashraf Palace), Dafineh Museum, Farideh Diba Palace, Natural History Museum. Other buildings on complex area: Shahram Palace, Prince Palace, Leila Palace, Farahnaz Palace, Hamid Reza Palace, Gholamreza Palace, Nasiri Palace, Twin Ghajar Palace.

Green Palace. Built in 1922-1928. Main parts of it: Waiting room, Reza Shah working room, Ceremonies Hall, Reza shah Dinning room, Corridor, Reza Shah Bedroom, Ceremony Hall.

National Arts Museum. Part of Saadabad Palace; gifts to the Shahs from Chinese, Indian and African delegations.

Den of Espionage. The former US embassy that was stormed by revolutionary students in 1979 is now a museum. Anti-American propaganda paintings decorate the walls of the compound. Despite the official hostility, Iranians in the streets around the former embassy are friendly towards Americans and other foreigners.

Azadi Museum. The Azadi Museum is located under the Azadi Tower.

Treasury of the National Jewels. If you want to drool over gold and glitter, take a look here. You'll get to see a collection of some of the most expensive jewels in the world. Highlights include the world's largest uncut ruby, the world's largest pink diamond (the Sea of Light) and a free-standing golden globe made from 34 kg of gold and an astounding 51,366 precious stones. The collection comprises a set of crowns and thrones, some 30 tiaras, numerous aigrettes, jewel-studded swords and shields, a vast amount of precious loose gems, including the largest collections of emeralds, rubies and diamonds in the world. It also includes other items collected by the Shahs of Iran during the 2,500-year existence of the Iranian kingdom.

National Museum of Iran. The museum has ceramics, stone figures and carvings dating all the way back to around the 5th millennium BC. It is the combination of two museums, the old building (entrance fee: 300,000 rials) dedicated pre-Islamic collection dating from Neolithic to the Sassanid period and the new building (entrance fee 200,000 rials) dedicated to Iran's 1,400-year Islamic history. Building One consists of three halls. The three halls contain artifacts from the lower, middle, and upper Paleolithic, as well as the Neolithic, Chalcolithic, early and late Bronze Age, and Iron Ages I-III, through the Median, Achaemenid, Seleucid, Parthian, and Sassanid periods. The post-Islamic part of the museum was inaugurated in 1996 and consists of three floors. It contains various pieces of pottery, textiles, texts, artworks, astrolabes, and adobe calligraphy from Iran's 1,400-year Islamic history. Also here find: Islamic Period Museum.

Safir Office Machines Museum. It was founded in 2008 by Frashad Kamalkhani, the museum owner. It includes a collection of early office machines.

Saad Abad Fine Arts Museum. Built in Neoclassical style, in 1920.

Iran's National Rug Gallery & Carpet Museum. This exhibits a variety of Persian carpets from all over Iran, dating from 18th century to present. It has a library that contains 7,000 books.

Reza Abbasi Museum. Named after Reza Abbasi, one of the artists in the Safavid period, the collections of this museum belong to a period from the 2nd millennium BC to the early 20th century.

Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art. Features the works of great artists such as Van Gogh, Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. The collection of these paintings were selected by the former Empress Farah Diba.

Darabad Museum of Natural History. Iran's most famous museum for nature and wildlife.

Former Qasr Prison. Closed or moved? Now there is the Islamic Revolution Court? (دادگاه انقلاب اسلامی) - It was built by the order of Fat′h Ali Shah of the Qajar dynasty in 1790 in the form of a palace.

Time Museum. Evolution of time-measurement instruments. In a building (700 m²) with a garden (0.6 ha).

Money Museum. Coins and banknotes from different historic periods.

Former Towhid Prison, now the Edification Museum (Ebrat Museum). Persian:بازداشتگاه توحید . The prison of Shah ages. It was an unofficial detention centre in Tehran, used against opponents of the Islamic Republic of Iran until its closure in 2000.

13 (Martyrs?) Aban Museum. Paintings, sculptures of people, kings, artists and scientists. Masterpieces of "Seyed Ali Akbar Sanati".

Akskhaneh Shahr. Ancient photos, tools and equipment.

Haft-Chenar Wildlife Museum. Persian: تنوع زیستی حیات وحش

History Museum. Displays 500 works of art on the 200-year history of Tehran.

Iran Historical Car Museum. The collection include 45 imperial cars, 2 royal carriages and 3 motorcycles.

Iranian Electrical Industry Museum ?.

Malek National Museum and Library. Art collections, coins, stamps, carpets.

National Arts Museum. It was part of Golestan Palace, but now it is located inside a government building. It is a small museum but with some good furniture and paintings.

Natural History Museum. Natural specimens pertaining to geology, zoology, botany, fossils of plants and animals on four level.

Rassam Arab-zadeh Carpet (فرش) Museum. Small rug exhibit (30 pieces).

Saba House. Iranian Musician Memorial Museum.

Murals A1one (aka Alonewriter, tanha) graffiti and street art works are a feature of Tehran's urban space. A famous local graffiti artist is at the centre of controversy about whether his work is art or vandalism, and you can see his early works on the Tehran-Karaj Expressway, on the southern side walls UP in Ekbatan and Apadana districts. A more recent work of stencil art is found at the entrance of the Saba Art Institute. - Kolahstudio-an Art Basement, Iranian Underground Arts.

National Botanical Garden of Iran. The Botanical Garden is a place where a variety of indigenous and non-native plants are cultivated outdoors and in greenhouses and plays an important role in a variety of research areas including plant and gardening science, public education and making people aware of the importance of plants and the need to protect them. In addition, the botanical garden is used as a genetic reserve for endangered plants. The botanical gardens provide the facilities to study and conserve biodiversity. Using different scientific methods, it is possible to identify the plant species of Iran and determine their distribution range. Research on the methods of breeding and cultivating valuable species from a conservation and economic point of view is another area of ​​interest in botanical gardens.

Do

Ab-o-Atesh Park and the Tabiat Bridge. Opened in 2009, the Ab-o-Atesh (lit. "Water and Fire") Park is one of Tehran's newest and most impressive. The highlight of the park is the Pol-e Tabiat or Nature Bridge, which offers spectacular views of north Tehran and the Alborz mountain range. Populated by the well-to-do urban middle classes of Tehran, this friendly park offers a plethora of cafes and restaurants, most of which can be found along the Rah-e Joobi or Wooden Road Food Court (رستوران‌های راه چوبی) in the southern section of the park (nearly all of the restaurants there are open only after 20:00 as it is customary for Iranians to eat dinner late in the evening). The park and its surroundings also offer other services, such as a skate park.

Chitgar Lake. Also known as the Lake of Martyrs of the Persian Gulf, is an artificial and recreational lake in the north of Chitgar Park. The total area of this complex is about 250 hectares; 130 hectares across the lake, and the rest of it goes for the coastal zone and resorts. The lake has good weather and it's host to migratory birds in some seasons.

Jamshidieh Park. It is one of the most picturesque and beautiful parks in Tehran. It is at the base of the Kolakchal Mountain. Mellat Park in Valiasr street is one of the largest recreation areas in the Middle-East. Niavaran Park is one of Tehran's famous and most pleasant public city parks. It is in the Niavaran district and is immediately south of the Niavaran Palace Complex. Additionally there are some large parks called "park-e-jangali" (literally "forest park") around (and some inside) the city which are very popular among the locals for picnic. The most famous one is Chitgar in the west of the city and is accessible via Karaj road.

Paradise Garden, Baq-e Ferdous Park?.

Tochal Mountain Tochal Mountain has a ski resort and is a great place to get some scenic views over Tehran and enjoy a little peace and quiet in contrast to the bustling city.

From the Tochal peak, one has a spectacular view of the Alborz range, including the 5,671-m (18,606 ft) high Mt. Damavand, a dormant volcano.

Tochal Complex. A recreation area on Mount Tochal that offers hiking trails, a ski resort, gym and other activities.

Tochal is the world's 4th highest ski resort at over at its highest 7th station. The resort was completed in 1976 shortly before the overthrow of the Shah.

Here, one must first ride the eight kilometres (five mile) long gondola lift, which covers a huge vertical. The 7th station has three slopes. The resort's longest slope is the south side U shaped slope which goes from the 7th station to the 5th station. The other two slopes are located on the north side of the 7th station. Here, there are two parallel chair ski lifts that go up to 3,900 m (12,795 ft) near Tochal's peak (at 4,000 m/13,125 ft), rising higher than the gondola 7th station. This altitude is higher than any of the European resorts.

Usually people get to the top using cable car. Embarkation point of which is at the . However, if you're energetic (or strapped for money), you can simply hike all the way up. You can also start walking and hop on one of the telecabins at the next station when you get tired. If going to the top, bring a jacket, even in summer, as the summit is 4,000 m above sea level so it can be chilly. There are lots of restaurants and cafes near the 1st station and entrance gate, and only one canteen upper on the mountain - at the 5th station. Besides, there is an alpin coaster at the base of the gondola lifts that offers a scenic ride for 200,000 rials.

At the bottom of the lifts in a valley behind the Tochal peak is Tochal hotel, located at 3,500 m (11,483 ft) altitude. From there a T lift takes skiers up the of Shahneshin peak, where the third slope of Tochal is.

There are also two alternative ways of hiking up the mountain:

Darband. This is the alternative way to climb Tochal mountain. The walk goes across a canyon to Tochtal (مسیر کوهپیمایی به توچال از طریق دربند). Short-ride chair lift is also available here and leads to the upper platform, operates only during weekend Th–F 07:00–18:00.

Darake. This is another entry point into nearby mountains. Like Darband, Darake hiking trail begins with tens of open-air restaurants alongside a stream.

Tehran City Theater. Architect Ali Sardar Afkhami designed the main building in the 1960s, later (1972) expanded.

Learn

Loghatnameh Dehkhoda Institute & International Center for Persian Studies is the only school which offers Persian courses and can arrange student visas for foreigners. Consult the timetable at their website and apply at least 3 months before. People with tourist visas are not allowed to attend classes.

Work

It is easy to find work in Tehran, but you must have a university diploma to be applicable for good jobs. Although there is some inflation, many of the people in Tehran have good and well paying jobs. Like every other big developing world city, there's a big difference between poor and rich.

Buy

Money exchange For information on Iranian currency see Iran#Buy.

It is much advisable to go to one of these (close to Jewels Museum). Such offices can also be found in other parts of the city, but are far more scattered. Ask them to show you a copy of their license, issued by the Central Bank of the country and/or the local guild. A list of licensed sarraafis of the whole country, in Persian (Farsi), can be found here.

Do not exchange your money with one of the many individuals offering to exchange along Ferdosi St. It is much riskier and illegal. They might be criminals offering counterfeit money.

Accommodation can be paid in euros, so you do not need to exchange all the money for the trip.

Visit the Bazaar, very appropriate for shopping. It ranges from cheap things to very expensive luxury things. You can find almost anything in the Bazaar, from clothing to carpets, kitchen accessories, decorations, jewellery....

There are also numerous shopping malls in the city. Valiasr Street and Tajrish Square (also includes a traditional bazaar) are two of the many locations full of shopping centres in Tehran.

Grand Bazaar of Tehran. Wander around Tehran's massive bazaar. The main entrance on 15 Khordad Ave leads to a labyrinth of stalls and shops that were once the engine room of Iran's commodity markets and one of Imam Khomeini's greatest sources of conservative, pro-Revolution support. As usual, shops are clustered according to the products they sell. If you're planning on heading out into remote areas, the bazaar is an ideal and cheap place to stock up on almost anything you need.

Behjat Abad Market. For those interested in cooking, Behjat Abad Market offers a good variety of fresh ingredients all year round.

Palladium Mall. The confectionery shop next to the supermarket is perfect for shopping souvenir sweets. Though on the pricey side by Iranian standards, the quality of the sweets is also high. Look out for the Tehranis who are wearing traditional black chadoors; they are a distinct minority among the well-to-do clientele of this ultra-modern mall.

Computer software Due to Iran's refusal to sign the Bern Convention, the sale of pirated software is legal in the country. However, bringing the software home is likely to be illegal and may carry large fines or jail sentences if caught. The software might also not include the correct ID keys and therefore might not work on your computer. Buyer beware!

Places where pirated software is for sale include the bazaar at the corner of Vali-e-Asr Avenue and Enghelab Avenue, Bazar-e-Reza, Bazar-e-Iran, and the "Paytakht Computer Complex", a modern complex of seven storeys filled with computer equipment at the intersection of Vali-e-Asr and Mirdamad. The prices at the "Bazaar Reza" (at Charrah-e-Vali-e-Asr) are usually cheaper. Some of the computer equipment that is sold in Iran are cheap knockoffs.

Jewellery & gold Jewellery & gold boutiques in Geisha, Milade Noor, Karim Khaan St. Golds, gems, and diamonds.

Bags & shoes Designer bags and shoes such as Gucci, Versace, Dior, Armani in Golestan shopping centre & Milade noor.

Eat

Prices quoted on the menu may exclude an 8% tax, a 10-15% service charge, and a 10% tip. Be prepared to add as much as 1/3 to the prices quoted on the menu.

Budget You'll find cheap & good enough abgoosht stew in any of the places they call ghahvekhuneh (قهوه‌خانه) which you can find in any non-strictly-residential area. Just ask for a ghahvekhuneh or get this قهوه‌خانه printed and show it. Nice traditional working class ambience as a rule.

You can find several food courts around Tehran with a variety of cuisines from Thailand, India, Italy, China and Turkey.

Delsin Sandwiches. Kebab and sandwich joints are found everywhere. This one has interesting salad, and humus (Lebanese mezeh). They have roast beef, chicken, turkey sandwiches that comes with fresh vegetables, like mint and basil.

Dizi Sara. A hangout of the rich and famous.

Food Court at Jaam-e-Jam Mini Mall. A sight to see - not for the food. This is the closest thing in Iran to a pick up bar. Teenagers push the limits on acceptable clothing. Has western import products in several stores underneath. There is also a decent bakery here with western type bread.

Iranian Traditional Restaurant. Young Iranians flirting, smoking flavored water pipe, and eating. The dizi is recommended.

Super Star Fried Chicken (SFC). The Iranian version of KFC. Serves very good chicken burgers.

Traditional Restaurant Karimkhan. A cozy place serving fantastic Dizi among other traditional dishes. Cute little canaries are flying around.

Restaurant Moslem. Huge (very huge!) portions that are hard to finish. That is why most of the locals pack about half the portion for take-away (free). The canteen-like place is super crowded at lunchtime and the people form a long queue. Get an ordering number at the entrance first. Upstairs you can watch the bustling square while enjoying your meal.

Sharafol-eslam is a restaurant in the Bazaar. It is famous for its kebabs and chicken. It gets really crowded though, which requires some patience.

Coffee Shop & Veggie Restaurant at Iranian Artists' Forum. Fantastic place to stock up on those much needed vegetables. The menu is pure veg and very, very good. Also, great coffees and desserts at very reasonable prices. Serves pizza, sandwiches, and salads

Dizi. A beautiful Dizisara. With many Miniature paintings on walls and a nice meal of Abgusht (traditional Iranian soup-like food, but way heavier than normal soups), it is worth a visit for lunch. Not open for dinner.

Farid. Speciality is the steamed blue fish.

Hani. Delicious Iranian food served buffet style.

Iran Tak. Ambient cellar restaurant with ornate chandelier and fountain. Popular with young people since water pipe smoking is allowed for both men and women. Try the lamb leg dishes.

Khayyam Restaurant. Beautifully decorated, originally part of the mosque. 300-year-old building restored in 2002. Typical Iranian food.

SPU Restaurant. Iranian food. Ranked as one of the best outdoor restaurants in Tehran.

Alborz Restaurant. Many locals regard this as a fairly good chelo kababi in Tehran.

Divan. Fusion Persian food in a luxurious setting. Consistently ranked as one of the best restaurants in Tehran.

Monsoon. The best Asian restaurant in Tehran, serving good Thai curries and decent sushi. European décor and music.

Nayeb. Traditional Iranian food served in style.

Bahar Confectionary. The oldest confectionery shop of Iran founded in 1938. birthplace of paderazi and sugar bread. Best known for traditional Paderazi and Shekari cookies. Quality is guaranteed. A diverse range of cookies and pastries are available.

Drink

For information on popular drinks in Iran, see Iran#Drink. Alcoholic beverages are illegal in Iran, other than some allowances for ritual use by Jews and Christians.

Coffee shops Coffee shops are a great place for people watching as well as drinking.

There is a string of coffee shops on the south side of Jomhuriyeh Eslami Ave, a couple of hundred metres west of Ferdosi St. You can stock up on coffee beans and related paraphernalia, or even sample a cup for 4,000 rials. Cafe Naderi - serves coffee, tea and pastries to a mix of Tehran's intelligentsia and bohemian elite. It's a great place to sit and watch hip young guys eyeing gossiping girls while old men reminisce about the "good ol' days" under the Shah.

Gramophone Cafe. If you want talk to your friends, you can go to Gramophone coffee shop, listen to nice music, and have a nice coffee. Some of people who work there can speak English. Ask for Beiruz.

Crystal Coffeeshop (at the top of the Borj-e Sefid Hotel) along Pasdaran Ave, Definitely worth a visit if in the area for the relaxing drink and view.

Tea houses Azari Traditional Tea House - Just north of the train station. A bit far from the center but worth the trek. The atmosphere here is unique, from the moment you enter from the beaded doorway. This is a popular hangout for people of all ages. Features an eclectic collection of water pipes and tea pots.

Chai bar. In a beautiful historic garden in Tehran. It is an ideal place to spend late afternoons/evenings. It offers great selection of teas and coffees as well as sandwiches.

Gandhi Shopping centre. For trendy cafes filled with liberal Iranians. You will find about ten coffeeshops as well as a few very good restaurants, including Monsoon.

Juice bars In many places you can find fresh sickly-sweet carrot juice - as well as some other juices - for just 30,000 rials a cup. By most main bazaar in Tehran you can get a drink of blended honeydew melon with ice and sugar. It's delicious and extremely refreshing on a hot day. In the summer, you can try Khakshir a locally made amazing drink which is refreshing.

Sleep

The old-styled Mosaferkhanehs and budget hotels are often low quality and overpriced. The reason is that Iran has had very limited exposure to the outside world. In many low budget places there are no European toilets or even no toilet paper and staff can be rather unfriendly with no English-speaking ability. However, a couple of modern hostels have opened in Tehran.

Tehran Heritage Hostel. The newly renovated Tehran Heritage Hostel sitting in a 100-year-old-building opened in January 2018. The location is very central and Baharestan metro station is just around the corner. Dormitories have beautifully designed bunk beds with private curtains, individual lockers, sockets and light on each bed and private rooms are en-suite, beautifully decorated with stunning bed linen. Useful and friendly staff, they can book your bus or train tickets for you.

Firouzeh Hotel. Good hotel with very friendly receptionist, Mr Mousavi, is a good source for information, especially regarding embassies and visas. Great place for breakfast, tea and meeting other travellers. Internet and wifi available.

Hotel Hafez. Location quite good, 5-min walking to National Jewelry Treasure and Turkish Consulate, with nearby currency exchange places. The duty manager (an old gentlemen) is very nice and speaks good English. Rooms are good and clean, bathroom water is hot. Can help you book train/bus/flight tickets, car/van or even visa renewal. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi, but signal is not good in the room.

See You in Iran Hostel in Tehran. Accommodation for cultural exchange. It features eight private rooms, two dorm rooms, an event-based café, a spacious outdoor garden and is run by a multilingual team.

Mashhad Hostel. One of the cheapest accommodation in Tehran. Nothing fancy and not exactly very nice but the obvious choice for those on a budget. Has a small kitchen with possibility to boil water and a dial up Internet connection.

Hotel Naderi. One of the cheapest hotels outside the grubby Amir Kabir Street. Still in central Tehran but Jomhuri Ave. has more restaurants than Amir Kabir St. Hotel Naderi is an old famous hotel where writers and intellectuals still meet in the downstairs Cafe Naderi. Some bathrooms are very old and somewhat dirty but the beds are reasonably clean. Ask for a room in the back to avoid the noise. Not to be confused with Hotel New Naderi.

Hotel Saadi. Small hotel with free Wi-Fi for guests.

7 Hostel. In a villa not too far away from the center; it offers a veranda, kitchen and patient help for your time in Tehran.

Tehran Hostel. Nice little hostel in a residential neighbourhood. Mori the manager is very nice and helpful. Clean dorm and bathrooms (only two (?) for the dorm). It's a good place to meet other travellers: those who just arrived and those who are about to leave. Free Wi-Fi and breakfast: Mr. Mori gets fresh bread every morning and you are free to use the guest kitchen to fry some (free) eggs, boil water for tea and use the fridge. It takes some time to get to the sights but the location is nicer than most of the central hotels.

HI Tehran Hostel I (Bahar St. Branch. This place is clean with a super friendly staff, with a large variety of dorms and private rooms. Beautifully designed and noticeably clean private & dormitory rooms, working space, study & working room, kitchen & serving space, a green front garden which is a place to meet locals & get to know the local culture while relaxing and enjoying a traditional drink or meal, 24/7 reception, secured lockers, CCTV protection for common spaces, free Persian-style breakfast.

Hi Tehran Hostel II (Enghelab St. Branch). Hi Tehran Hostel II (Enghelab St. Branch) is in the most famous historical/political street of Tehran, full of cafes, restaurants & art centers. 150 meters from Ferdowsi St and its metro station & exchange shops. The newer of the two Tehran Hostels, it is in a renovated historical building which dates back to first Pahlavi period. Beautifully designed with clean private & dormitory rooms and other amenities as in its sister hostel. 24/7 reception, secured lockers, CCTV protection for common spaces, free Persian-style breakfast.

Bibi Hostel. It's near various cafes and Iranian restaurants popular with tourists and locals.

Amir Hotel. 70 nice rooms with a great location. Popular with business travelers.

Atlas Hotel. Two-star hotel in convenient location and good rooms. Insist on a room in the rear building as rooms in the front building face the very noisy Taleghaani Avenue. Breakfast included.

Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel. Very nice and posh rooms and fantastic breakfast buffet. Centrally location. Highly recommended.

Ideal Apartment Hotel. Offers apartments with kitchens and separate sleeping rooms. While not palaces, they are good for self-caterers or people who face a longer stay in Tehran. Staff is motivated and speaks English.

Iranshahr Hotel. Opened in 1953; renovated in 1981. Nice rooms and good service.

Hotel Mashad. Rooms are renovated but small. Some rooms have a view into the former US embassy complex.

Hotel New Naderi. By 'new', they mean 1970s. Clean rooms.

Parasto Hotel (Parastoo Hotel). Basic hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms can be smoky or dirty.

Espinas Persian Gulf Hotel. Opened in 2010, it is one of the nicest hotels in Tehran. 224 rooms, gym, sauna, pool.

Esteghlal Hotel. Formerly a Hilton hotel. 15 floors, 550 rooms, built in 1962.

Raamtin Residence Hotel. 50 spacious rooms with leather couches.

Simorgh Hotel. Nice location on cosmopolitan upmarket section of Valiasr St. Saei Park is almost next door and a beautiful green/concrete oasis in a deep valley. Hotel was once the Miami Hotel, and on the top floor is still the Miami Restaurant. Fairly good food - try the estrogen (sturgeon) fish kebabs, and the chicken cordon bleu. Good coffee in ground floor cafe. Rooms are comfortable and well equipped although rather dark. Business centre with fast internet and wifi in most rooms. Terrific indoor pool with separate bathing times for men and women. The hotel cars are in very poor condition, better to take a taxi from the street.