Sana'a.
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Overview

Sana'a is the capital of Yemen, located in the Yemeni Mountains and generally the first destination for travellers to that country. See the Stay safe section of this article and the Yemen country page for important safety advice.

Understand

One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world (others being Jericho, Damascus and Aleppo), Sana'a is traditionally said to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah. As a result, the city has the unlikely nickname of "Sam City".

Sana'a will start surprising you the moment you arrive at the airport. All the policemen and the civilians wear jambiya, the unique Yemeni dagger. Even small children wear little daggers. Many people have swollen cheeks because of chewing qat leaves. Outside the airport, all buildings look the same because of uniformly painted windows and walls.

The city experiences a mild desert climate, with much more moderate temperatures than other Arabian Peninsula cities due to its high elevation.

Get in

By plane Sana'a International Airport is the city's international airport. As of November 2023, there are daily commercial flights between Amman and Sana’a operated by Yemenia, the country’s national carrier.

By bus Yemen has a few bus companies. Sana'a is connected by all major cities (Aden, Ta'izz, Marib, Sayun, etc.) via bus. Perhaps the best bus company in Yemen is the new-ish Raha (established in 2008). The buses are still new. Note a travel permit (tasirih in Arabic) needs to be obtained from the Ministry of Tourism before embarking on over-land adventures. Each town has a military checkpoint that will ask for a travel permit and will likely refuse people entry if they have forgotten to get one. Travel permits are issued free of charge. When applying, visitors should bring their passport, a list of places they are going to visit, and the time period for travel. Visitors should have photocopies of their travel permit as each checkpoint may ask for a copy, and they should also have copies of the biographical information page (that contains their photo) of their passport handy. Often foreign passengers give a pile of travel permit copies to the bus driver so that he can provide them to officials at checkpoints. Visitors should let the bus driver or military personnel know of their nationality as they need to know. Note that there are also many traffic police checkpoints. They are not interested in your permit; only those with green uniforms and big guns are.

Get around

Sana'a is a big city which, in common with many other developing-world capitals, is spreading in all directions at once. Visitors will almost certainly have to use taxis or hired cars to get around, as the street maps often leave much to be desired.

There are many "Dabaabs" or mini vans that go on different routes around the city. They serve as public buses and are quite cheap.

Cars are used a lot but they are mostly 4x4s or pick up trucks. Drivers tend to use the horn excessively which is normal in this beautiful congested city.

See

The Old City of Sana'a is World Heritage Listed and makes a great place to see the uniquely Yemeni style of architecture - multiple-storey tower houses with the distinctive qamariya windows. Within the Old City is the Souk al-Milh, arguably the best souk (marketplace) in the Arabian Peninsula.

Bab al-Yaman. One of the city's most important landmarks, it is the gate leading into the Old City, which is surrounded by ancient walls. The souk and many excellent restaurants are located nearby.

National Museum of Yemen. The museum is located in a former palace that was restored and converted into a museum. Here you can learn about the nation's history and culture. Most exhibits include English descriptions along with Arabic.

Military Museum. Displays artifacts related to the Yemeni military. Explanations are all in Arabic; however, there is a part outside where they have English explanations about some of the more modern artifacts.

Wadi Dhahr. A valley a few kilometres outside of Sana'a with green fields, villages, and the face Rock Palace of an Imam of Yemen.

Great Mosque of Sana'a. One of the oldest mosques in the world. The oldest known written copy of the Quran was found here.

Al Saleh Mosque. Located near the heavily-guarded Presidential Palace, it is one of the largest mosques in the world.

Do

Sana'a is a great place for people-watching and culture observing. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life, coupled with the almost total lack of industrialisation seen in nearby countries, means that it's quite possible to sit in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.

If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen (and are prepared to risk your health): participate in a qat session. Qat (khat) is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen. They spend their afternoons hanging out, chewing the leaf, and conversing. Side effects are lack of appetite and insomnia. Qat is considered by many as the prime cause of Yemen ranking as the poorest country in the Middle East. Note that Qat is a controlled substance in many other countries, and those trying to bring it into such countries risk arrest.

Learn

Yemen is an excellent place to study Arabic for several reasons: 1. Languages other than Arabic are much less commonly spoken than they are in nearby countries; 2. There are several excellent Arabic language institutes that offer both group and private courses with flexible schedules and reasonable prices.

The offers courses in Arabic language as well as academic seminars in English language about the contemporary Middle East. With over 20 years of experience, YCMES is the first and only accredited programme in Yemen (i.e. students can transfer credit to their home universities). Regular tuition packages include accommodation, meals, excursions, cultural activities, wireless internet, library, etc. The YCMES can also help with international and domestic travel arrangements.

Other options are Sana'a Institute of the Arabic Language (SIAL), Center for Arabic Language Studies (CALES), and , all of which are located in the Old City.

Additionally, Yemen Institute for Arabic Language (YIAL) a teacher owned institute that offers similar courses outside the Old City, although it also has very good accommodations in the Old City and in the institute itself. YIAL primarily offers private courses. YIAL also organises activities and trips.

Work

Unless you have work lined up as an expat, work in Sana'a (and elsewhere in Yemen) will be very hard to come by. The majority of the locals sitting by the road will be waiting to be hired as manual labourers or domestic staff, in the latter role competing with guest workers from across the Red Sea. Those with good abilities in Arabic may be able to find work teaching English, however this will be informal and exceptionally temporary work. Schools such as AMIDEAST, MALI, and YALI hire English teachers, but you will likely need a bachelor's degree and some sort of teaching certification.

Buy

Almost everywhere you look, you will have the chance to buy the curved dagger (jambiya) worn by local men. This purchase can be simply of the dagger and its accompanying sheath, however handmade belts and silver pouches are also for sale, with many tourists opting to purchase each item separately. When purchasing a jambiya, remember first and foremost that it counts as a weapon for customs purposes, even though it is not used as one anymore. Secondly, the sheath is predominantly leather with either a base metal or (in more expensive models) silver decoration. Traditionally, handles were made of animal horn or ivory. It is doubtful that the handles sold today as being made from either of these products are genuine, and so a wooden or amber handle may be a better option.

Necklaces and jewellery are also common souvenirs, and many of these will be made of the semi-precious stones the souvenir sellers claim. Nevertheless, a healthy grain of salt should be added to any belief that one is actually purchasing a necklace of lapis lazuli or anything like that.

Bargaining is expected and worthwhile.

Yemen's currency, the rial (riyal), is subject to high inflation. As a result, many prices (particularly those quoted to white-skinned visitors) will be given in US dollars or euros.

Eat

Visitors should be careful when eating from street stands as the same warning which applies to tap water applies to poorly-prepared food. Salta is a popular Yemeni lunch dish that is served very hot.

Budget Nearly all Yemeni food is budget. Chicken is ubiquitous.

Al Shamiri Plaza hotel. Has a rooftop restaurant on 8th floor which offers great views over old and new part of Sanaa. Menu is also in English and prices are reasonable.

Mid-range Hadda Street is where the more "upscale" restaurants are located. Clean restaurants with a large range of food include:

Drink

Bottled water, both chilled and at room temperature, is readily available and very cheap - as is the normal range of fruit juices and soft drinks.

Sleep

Good option to stay is new part of Sana'a. It's walking distance to Old part of town but hotels offer better value to money. Around Tahrir area there are about 10 hotels to choose, ranging from five star Taj Sheba hotel to no-star hotels. recommended are 2 Wadi Hadramout hotels. More expensive Wadi Hadramout hotel is cross the main road from Tahrir Square, other more economical is near Taj Sheba hotel at Ali Abdulmogny Street. Staff are very helpful and friendly and some speak English.

Hotel Dawood. Has a roof with excellent views over the old town, in addition to great views from rooms.

Burj Al Salam Hotel. In the old part of the city. Traditionally styled building with reasonable facilities. Excellent view of the city from the roof top restaurant. Wi-Fi. It can be noisy because it is next to two mosques.

Sam City Hotel. Staff make an effort to look after you and a great deal.