Quetzaltenango.
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Overview

Quetzaltenango, also known as Xela (pronounced SHAY-la) or Xelaju, is the second largest city in Guatemala. There are a number of attractions in town, and it's also a good base for exploring Guatemala's Western Highlands ("Los Altos"). Situated at the southwest of the country, the surrounding department has a variety of landscapes extending from the cold highlands to the warm Pacific coast. There are numerous volcanos, hot springs, valleys, mountains, rivers. The region provides a harvest of numerous products such as coffee, wheat, fruits and vegetables, and has sheep and cattle breeding.

Understand

The city of Quetzaltenango, the capital and largest city of the department of the same name, is situated on an extensive plain and surrounded by hills and volcanoes. The city of Quetzaltenango conserves the old K'iche' Maya traditions and the colonial past, while maintaining the dynamism of modern life.

The city's roots go back to the Pre-Columbian Maya era. The Mam authority, called Kulahá, reached its most important expansion. The K'iche' lords later conquered the area, and founded the city of Xelajú here, moving it from a previous location at the base of the volcano Santa Maria.

The city was already some 300 years old when Spanish Conquistadors came to conquer Guatemala in the early 1500s. Their native allies the Nahuas from Central Mexico called the city "Quetzaltenango", meaning "the place of the Quetzal bird" in the Nahua language. The Spanish took the name from the Nahuas. It's still the city's official name, but locals are more apt to casually call it "Xela" from the ancient name of Xelajú.

It was the administrative capital of the Western Highland region in the Spanish Colonial period. With Central American independence from Spain in the 1820s it was part of the Central American Federation. Conflicts between the interests of Quetzaltenango and Guatemala City led to the creation of "Los Altos", the "Sixth State of the Central American Confederation", consisting of Western Guatemala (and a slice of what is now part of Chiapas Mexico) with Quetzaltenango as its capital. When the Central American Federation fell apart in 1839-1840, Los Altos was briefly a de-facto independent state, until the army of Guatemalan dictator Carrera brutally conquered the city and hanged its leaders.

The city enjoyed prosperity with the boom in coffee production in the late 19th and start of the 20th century, when many of the city's "Belle Époque" style landmarks still seen were built. Plans for a railway to Quetzaltenango dated back to the 1890s, and construction was started in the 1920s and finally completed in 1930. The "Ferrocarril de los Altos" was proclaimed the engineering marvel of the age -- until it was destroyed by landslides in 1933. The fabled railroad is still remembered in local song and story, and there's a museum dedicated to it in town.

Quetzaltenango's prosperity declined from the Great Depression through the Guatemalan Civil War in the later 20th century, and for a time much of the city looked on the scruffy side. With the new millennium, however, better times are back. The old landmarks have been refurbished and new ones added, and the city is more beautiful and vibrant than ever.

Quetzaltecos are proud of their city, its distinct regional culture, and its rich heritage.

Get in

By car Use the Panamerican Highway (CA-1) which crosses the Highlands or the International (CA-2), parallel to the Pacific Coast.

By bus As with most cities in the country try to arrange to arrive well before dark since moving around in the city is more complicated and dangerous after dark.

From Guatemala City, chicken buses run frequently from the Trebol terminal to the Minerva terminal in Xela for Q35 (quetzales). For 1st class buses to Guatemala City, Galgos has its terminal on Calle Rodolfo Robles, at the southern end of the La Democracia market district in Zona 3, at the end of 18 Avenida. Alamo also has its office in Zona 3, on 14 Avenida, near the corner with 5a Calle, a few blocks northeast of La Democracia. For Q100-Q120 you can take a shuttle with a company called Xelabus located in the Rus mall in Zona 7 of Guatemala city From Antigua, take a chicken bus from the terminal in Antigua to Chimaltenango for Q5. Get off on the main road (under a massive concrete bridge,) walk one block west to catch one of the buses which go from Guatemala City to Xela, Q30. From many villages around Lake Atitlán, buses go to Xela (from some infrequently, usually early in the morning.) A frequent service goes from Panajachel to Sololá and from there to Los Encuentros. There you can hop on one of the frequent buses from Guatemala City to Xela. Make sure to get to Los Encuentros well before dusk since no buses pass by after a certain hour and it is not a very pleasant place to spend the night. From San Cristóbal in Mexico (as a tourist hotspot well connected to many places in the country) inexpensive shuttles go to Xela several times a day. They usually go to Antigua but stop on the way there in Xela. Alternatively you can get on a micro to Comitán, take a micro from there to the border at La Mesilla, get on a chicken bus to Huehuetenango, and from there to Xela. From Tapachula in Mexico, micros run frequently to the border between Ciudad Hidalgo and Tecún Umán from where there are frequent buses until the early afternoon to Coatepeque and from there chicken buses (Q18) to Xela. As the service on both connections in Guatemala terminates relatively early in the afternoon, you should try to leave early in Tapachula.

Get around

By bus For travel around the countryside, the local buses are very reasonable. They can be entertaining and, at times, quite crowded. Do not plan on carrying much luggage with you on these: some buses have backpack storage above the seats, but most of the time you must store bags that do not fit on your lap on the top of the bus. While they are generally safe up there, they are at risk for weather.

These second-class buses will leave at regular times, but if you load your things on the bus, do not get off as the driver may leave without warning.

These buses at the main terminal do make other stops prior to leaving town (7th Street and 16th Avenue, for example). Panajachel - 11AM. This is the bus to the lake. Q30-35 for this trip. Otherwise take any bus to Guatemala City, and change at La Cuchilla (and possibly again in Sololá). San Pedro La Laguna - 11:30, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00 & 17:30 San Marcos - 04:00-20:00 Frequent Cantel & Zunil - 06:00-19:00 Frequent buses Huehuetenango - 04:00-18:00 Frequent. La Mesilla border with Mexico at 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 14:15 Retalhuleu & Champerico - 04:30-19:30 Santa Cruz del Quiché - Leaves hourly, 08:00-16:30

Minibuses The city has grown enormously in the 2000s.

When using the minibus to get to Pradera (the large mall with a movie theatre and a supermarket) walk a couple of blocks away from central park and at the side of Pasaje Enriquez to catch the van. The guy will call "Hiper Hiper Hiper" and it is Q1.25 in the day and Q3 at night. This same van also drops you at La Democracia Market Utz Ulew Mall and Montblanc Mall (a slightly smaller mall which also has a supermarket).

This is also the van that you catch to get to the Chicken Bus terminal that takes you to Antigua or Panajachel. Most people tell you to get off at the Roman Columns-Minerva Terminal. You can ask someone where the bus station is or just walk north for 4-5 blocks or you can get down at Pradera and walk along side to the east again 4 or 5 blocks until you reach the bus terminal (exert caution).

Taxis are relatively common around the city, especially around nightlife hot spots. At night, it is not safe to walk around, so taxis are highly recommended, especially if you are by yourself. Catch a taxi on a public square rather than on one of the side streets and note its number. If the driver seems sketchy to you, make a reasonable excuse and do not take it, also that is the most safe way to get around especially to catch a bus to Antigua or any other place if you are carrying a big backpack.

See

Market. The main market in the city is in Zona 3, covering various city blocks around the covered market, with an enormous variety of produce at cheaper prices than in formal shops (often for identical products). The covered market itself occupies the block between 15 Avenida and 16 Avenida, and 2 and 3 Calle, Zona 3. Fresh meat is sold inside the covered market, fruit and vegetables outside. Clothes, shoes, and toys are mostly sold outside. Many buses and microbuses pass the market, usually breviated to "La Demo". On the north side of the market is the attractive Parque Benito Juárez, with the San Nicolás Church on its east side.

Historical center The town conserves traces of the colonial period in its streets and avenues. The classical, neoclassical and Italian renaissance styles are evident in the buildings and the houses which have been built during the past century and the beginning of the 20th, with volcanic stones by artistic "Quetzalteco" masons. Some examples of architectural styles:

Espiritu Santo Cathedral consists of two structures. The "Espiritu Santo" parish's ancient facade (1535/1896) and to the back the "Diócesis de los Altos" (1899). The Municipal Theatre is a very important Neoclassical work. The Central America park (known as "Parque Central): Situated in the old centre of the town is also centre of cultural activities and amusements. The Enrique Passage: commercial building from 1900 facing the central park. Gobernacion: one block from the central park. Municipal Palace: overlooking the park on the east side. Central market: one block below the cathedral, with a number of handicraft shops selling souvenirs, and with food and drink available below. Natural History Museum A small local museum on the south side of the park, with a collection of curiosities including a few Maya archaeological finds (mostly ceramics). The Cerro del Baúl, where one can have a beautiful view of Quetzaltenango's valley, day or night (accessible by foot, car or taxi).

Cultural activities Occidental Cultural Centre (La Casa de la Cultura de Occidente) Alliance Française de Quetzaltenango, numerous activities are scheduled all year. Artisans' market: The first Sunday of each month, the "Quetzaltecos" install the artisans' market in the central park where handcrafts from Quetzaltenago and surrounding villages are displayed. Annual fair and festival: September 12-18

Do

Study Spanish. Quetzaltenango is well known for its Spanish schools, with a great many available, concentrated in the historic centre of the city. Classes are given on a 1:1 basis, usually with study in the morning and tourist activities in the afternoon, and accommodation provided with a local family.

Quetzaltenango Municipal Theatre. The theatre is known for its beautiful interior architecture and hosting of jazz performances.

Volunteering There are hundreds of volunteer opportunities with organizations and groups in and around Xela, ranging from one-day projects to long-term placements.

Many of the schools listed above offer opportunities for their students. For other volunteer opportunities, see this list:

Asociación de Mujeres del Altiplano.

Asociación Nuevos Horizontes, women's and children´s rights non-profit organization.

El Nahual Community Center. Offers volunteer teaching opportunities in schools around Xela. Non-profit. All are welcome at the weekly organizational meeting held Monday at 17:30 at the Blue Angel Café.

Entremundos. Database of local opportunities by a non-profit organization, accessible for free. Additional services, including housing, are available with a donation.

La Pedrera Community Project. A non-profit project that offers volunteer work and internships with an indigenous community.

Xela is well known for its abundance of volcanoes, mountains, and hot springs

Dance The salsa, Bachata scene is very active in Xela. Lessons are cheap and there are lots of clubs.

Learn

Xela has a long-time reputation as one of the best places to learn Spanish (and sometimes Mayan languages). 5 hours per day), though most visitors stay multiple weeks at a time. Most also offer home stay options ("immersion" programs), which is an excellent way to keep practicing at all times. This often includes internet access at the school. Many of the schools can be found around Barrio Las Flores in Zona 01. A few of the more established schools are:

Buy

There are many opportunities to buy goods in Xela. Mayans will approach you, especially in parks, about selling purses, bags and blankets in the local styles. Markets occur regularly in and around Xela.

During the monthly market at the Parque Central on the first Sunday of the month, a row of vendor booths is set up in front of the Municipal building & Catholic Cathedral (east side of the park) with vendors mainly selling local products.

La Pradera. Shopping mall with multi-screen cinema that screens the latest Hollywood releases, usually dubbed in Spanish, but occasionally subtitled.

Eat

Churrasquería Cajola This place is bare bones, dirt cheap, and delicious. Located just east of Cervecería Nacional, next to the small roundabout. Sabor de La India A great Indian meal from Q40 to 70, plus drink. Address is 15 Avenida 3-64, Zona 1, next to Vrisa Bookstore Comida Taiwanesa Their specialty is the Taiwanese empanada which is entirely vegetarian. They're Q3.00 a piece and two will make a decent size snack. They also sell soy milk and snow cones with all kinds of toppings. Located south of the Parque Central on 8a calle between 8a avenida and 9a avenida. Café Museo La Luna has the best hot chocolate (spicy!), and decent food (some original takes on local ingredients & dishes) too. They are closed on Sunday. They are located off the east side of central park on 8a Av between 4a and 5a Calle. Around the corner on 4a Calle, is Bajo la Luna that has an excellent wine selection (seriously) and cheese plates. La Red Kat is located in Zona 1 on 3a Calle just west of 15a Av. and has delicious coffee, excellent salads (spinach - no iceberg lettuce thankfully), sandwiches, pasta, soups, tipico meals, and wine for only 15Q a glass. They are closed on Sunday. El Cuartito Cafe is located at the intersection of 7 Calle 7 & 13 Avenida, Zone 1, a block from the SW corner of Parque Central, across from the supermarket La Despensa Familiar. Open daily 8AM-11PM. This cozy & trendy modern-art-decorated cafe serves amazing coffee drinks (Q10-23 using 100% organic & fair-trade Xela cooperative produced coffee), teas (Q15-20), hot chocolate (Q12-17), alcoholic (mojitos - Q20; wine - Q16; commercial beer - Q15; artisan beer - Q30; Irish coffee - Q200), excellent pastries, breakfast plates (Q20-35), and great snacks (chips & salsa - Q15, nachos - Q25, quesadilla - Q20). Free Wi-Fi. Live music often.

Restaurant y Mirador Panorama. Amazing view overlooking central Xela (beside Iglesia Monte Sinai). Sit outside on the lawn as you gaze across the Quetzaltenango valley at the mountains all around. Excellent for celebrating an occasion or impressing that special someone. Specializing in Swiss cuisine and serving delicious fondues, raclette, sandwiches, pizzas, hamburgers & more.

Baviera Cafe. This charming cafe/restaurant offers tables, a lounge/sofa area, flat-screen TV showing sporting events. Serves wonderful teas (from Q6), locally sourced & roasted coffee drinks (from Q8), hot chocolate (from Q12), milk shakes (from Q20), juices/horchata/sodas/beers (from Q10) as well as soups (from Q20), sandwiches (from Q25), salads (from Q25), pastries (from Q20), snacks (from Q8), and breakfasts (from Q20). Free Wi-Fi internet to paying customers (passcode=11111aaaaa). There are also 3 other locations in Xela.

Drink

Don't drink the tap water. Some hostels will have a water filter, which many drink from, and it seems to be safe. Otherwise, drink purified water (agua pura).

Cabro, which some consider one of the best beers in the world, is made locally in Quetzaltenango. Another local beer, Gallo, is more like the Bud Lite of Guatemala -- bland, available everywhere, and sponsoring everything.

If you like dark beer, try the Moza, another local beer, it's some people's favorite. Shop at the liquor store and return Moza bottles for credit but not all bottles will receive a 1 Q credit.

El Cuartito Cafe is located at the intersection of 7 Calle 7 & 13 Avenida, Zone 1, a block from the SW corner of Parque Central, across from the supermarket La Despensa Familiar. This cozy & trendy modern-art-decorated cafe serves amazing coffee drinks (Q10-23 using 100% organic & fair-trade Xela cooperative produced coffee), teas (Q15-20), hot chocolate (Q12-17), and many alcoholic beverages (mojitos - Q20; wine - Q16; commercial beer - Q15; several styles of artisan beer - Q30; Irish coffee - Q200). Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 8AM-11PM. Live music often.

Baviera Cafe. This charming cafe/restaurant offers tables, a lounge/sofa area, flat-screen TV showing sporting events. Serves wonderful teas (from Q6), locally sourced & roasted coffee drinks (from Q8), hot chocolate (from Q12), milk shakes (from Q20), juices/horchata/sodas/beers (from Q10) and food (see "Eat" section). Free Wi-Fi internet to paying customers (passcode=11111aaaaa). There are also 3 other locations in Xela.

Sleep

Quetzaltenango has a variety of accommodations for a variety of budgets, though world travelers will find the prices and facilities in the "high end" accommodations more like that of mid-range places in larger world cities. It is best to always ask to see your room before moving in to it; whether budget or more pricey, some rooms in the same place can often be much better or worse than others. At cheaper places don't expect hot water or heat unless you ask for it; in some the "heat" may be wood to put in a fireplace that you have to order and pay for by the bundle. Budget

Casa Argentina. Friendly and central, very close to a small fruit and vegetable market. Home of Quetzaltrekkers, a non-profit trekking company. It has a wi-fi (or use their computer), kitchen (a bit dirty and run down), hot water (use the top one - hottest, and it's solar (?)). Q25 for a Dorm room, Q35 for a single room. Some find this a great kicked back place, but do check your mattress for signs of bed bugs.

Casa Doña Mercedes. is off to the southeast corner of central parque at the corner of 6a Calle and 14 Av. The private baths hot water coming from a water heater. There is a sun room, kitchen, TV in the rooms, and the staff cleans your room every day. Also, they will do your laundry for 30Q/load.

Hotel Casa del Viajero. Well-known colonial style traveler's home located in the historic center, a few blocks from Central Park. Offers: rooms with private bath, hot water, cable TV, Wi-Fi, breakfast and dinner, parking, Event room. Prices start at Q75 per person in single, double or triple rooms.

Hotel Pension Bonifáz. One of Xela's top hotels since 1935. Convenient location; offers parking for those who came with a car. On the pricey side for Quetzaltenango. Even if you decide to stay somewhere cheaper, you may wish to stop by the fashionable bar and restaurant for a meal or a cocktail.

Hotel Modelo. Owned and operated by the same family for over 100 year the Hotel Modelo offers old world charm in the heart of Quetzaltenango.

Casa Xelajú. Offers two-story house for rent and 10 apartments with big windows where you can see the city, mountains and volcanoes. They are completely furnished including central heated water, washing machine, a dining room, living room, full kitchen and three bedrooms/one bedroom, two bedrooms and balconies. Located five minutes walking distance from the Central Park, in the Historic Center of the City. Free unlimited high speed Wifi, 24/7

Guesthouse El Puente. Located in the rear part of the main Celas Maya Spanish school building/facility, a small hostel used primarily for student residency. Each room accommodates 1-3 guests. Kitchen is shared and fully equipped. Beautiful private sunny garden.

Casa San Bartolomé, B&B. A quiet, clean and comfortable bed & breakfast with very nice gardens. The hotel has six bedrooms and two equipped and furnished apartments, all with private bathrooms and enough hot water. Free Wi-Fi.

Hotel El Centro. 3 blocks from Central Park with 24-hr reception. Rooms have hot water, cable, wi-fi internet & free parking. Towels & bed linens included. Visa cards accepted.

7 Orejas Hostal. A quiet & friendly environment in a cozy atmosphere with rooms decorated in Guatemalan style. Located in the historic district with easy access to cafes, discotheques, bars, travel agencies, Spanish schools, et al. Wireless Internet, Cable TV, private bathrooms, security storage (bring your own lock), linens & towels, reading light, luggage storage, free continental breakfast, free coffee, tea & drinking water all day, 24 hours reception, Parking with reservation. Restrictions: No pets, no smoking, no drugs, no visitors in rooms.