Port Moresby.
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Overview

Port Moresby (Tok Pisin: Pot Mosbi) is the capital of Papua New Guinea. It is the gateway to PNG, and almost all visitors to the country pass through the city.

Understand

Port Moresby is the capital and largest city of Papua New Guinea. The city is on the shores of the Gulf of Papua. Its population is around 365,000 (2011) and growing quickly. The indigenous people of the area are the Motu-Koitabu. Moresby, as it is commonly known, got its name from Captain John Moresby who arrived in 1873 as the first European visitor.

The city is quite spread out. The original colonial settlement was by the sea and this is still the port area, as well as the main business and banking district. On the hills above are upmarket residences. Closer to the airport, separated from the original town by hills, is Waigani, a 1970s development built to provide facilities for the PNG Government, which were needed for independence in 1975. Nearby are the housing areas of Boroko and Gordons, which also contain most of the large shops.

Get in

Port Moresby is the main point of entry into Papua New Guinea for air-traffic and most of the boat-traffic.

Air Niugini flies from Cairns, Sydney and Brisbane, Australia; Fiji, Honiara, Palau, Solomon Islands; Manila, Philippines; Tokyo (Narita), Japan; Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong Citilink flies from Denpasar Philippine Airlines flies from Manila PNG Air flies from Cairns Qantas flies from Brisbane, Australia Solomon Airlines flies from Honiara

Airfares from Australia can be quite cheap.

The airport is modern, and immigration and customs are relatively smooth (as long as you have the correct visa), especially as the staff are extremely friendly; however, delays are common when multiple flights arrive at once. If you are transferring to a domestic flight, you might have to rush. as you have to exit the international terminal, turn right and walk 300 m to the domestic terminal. If you are flying Air Niugini domestically, you can check in at their transfer desk next to the other check-in desks in the international terminal, then walk over to the domestic terminal.

All major hotels will provide airport transfers – make sure they know your arrival time and whether you will be at the international or domestic terminal. In addition, a bus connects the airport with downtown Port Moresby, taking 30 minutes. Taxis are outside the terminals and can transport you to downtown Port Moresby in around 20 minutes for 80 PGK.

Get around

For a tourist, the attractions in Moresby can be spread out. There is little 'attraction' in the CBD and walking around will not get you very far. It is nice to walk along Ela Beach and around market areas but otherwise you will be reliant on motorised transport. There is the odd push-bike around the place, though finding one for hire may be a challenge.

By PMV The locals rely on mini-buses (known as Public Motor Vehicles) that service all parts of the city. Whilst cheap, some drivers do not mind over-loading their vans. All PMVs have their route number and destination printed on – it is easy to ask locals where the buses go, they'll be happy to help and warn you.

By car Car rental agencies are available close to Jacksons International airport but driving in Port Moresby might not be what most people are used to. In some areas of POM the locals throw stones at the car, usually just for amusement but in some cases they manage to crack your windshield. There are cases of people standing in the middle of a stretch of road they have mended and demanding compensation from people driving by, and as soon as you get outside of the city the roads deteriorate to muddy trails that only a 4x4 with an experienced driver should attempt. If you want to see the sights near Moresby such as Crystal Rapids near Sogeri or the start of the Kokoda, a 4x4 is highly recommended.

By taxi There are numerous taxis (some 'teksis' too) around Moresby and calling one from your hotel will bring one promptly. You can try your luck hailing one but if you want to feel safe, arrange a friend or your hotel to call a reliable driver – there is a genuine risk of robbery that can be avoided if the hotel knows exactly who you went with.

Through your hotel The easiest and safest way to get around is by organising transport through your hotel. Most will offer transport to the main attractions in town, such as the Port Moresby Nature Park or Papua New Guinea National Museum & Art Gallery.

See

Port Moresby Nature Park. A must for the visitor. Has some amazing examples of PNG wildlife such as birds of paradise, a couple of casowaris, and several other native birds. If you are lucky you might catch a wedding while you are there as some locals like to conduct the ceremony in the gardens. On the same road is the National Orchid Garden which is also well worth a look – it is planned to encompass a zoological garden in the future.

Papua New Guinea National Museum & Art Gallery. PNG's national museum has a relatively small but fascinating collection which includes wonderful sculptures, beads, traditional boats and cultural objects. The exhibits are well displayed and housed in an architecturally interesting building. Photography is not permitted inside the museum but there are newer objects outside, along with some remains from World War II in varying states of decay, including planes and tanks.

Bomana War Cemetery. A beautifully maintained cemetery, home to 3,824 Commonwealth burials from World War II. It is the resting place of many Australian soldiers from the Kokoda Trail, plus some of the Papuan Battalion in the last two rows. A nurse in the third to last row is the only woman in the cemetery.

National Parliament of Papua New Guinea. Parliament Haus is one of the most impressive buildings in Port Moresby, built in the style of a Maprik Haus Tambaran (house of spirits from East Sepik Province). Dating from 1984, it is usually open to visitors.

Touaguba Hill. Perhaps not so much to see, but this is where the ambassadorial residences are located and is also where many of the well-to-do expats and locals live. There is a nice view from the top of the hill overlooking the centre of the city and the ocean.

Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary. Numerous crocodiles, some very large, as well as birds and other animals.

Port Moresby Golf Club. A nice golf course located right across from the government buildings. The prices are quite acceptable for visitors. Be careful: crocodiles inhabit the water holes of the golf course. The main building has a nice restaurant where one can have lunch and have a few SP beers (South Pacific beers) after a round of golf.

Ela Beach Craft Market. Run by the Ela Murray International School and held on the last Saturday of each month, this market brings together local artifacts from all over Papua New Guinea. An easy way to get some beautiful carvings, handwoven baskets, or any of a number of other things to bring home as souvenirs.

Do

Scuba diving – A number of reefs and wrecks are within close proximity to Port Moresby and diving can be arranged through day vessels or on nearby Loloata Island (which has its own dive shop). There are a variety of sites and depths for all experience levels. Swimming – A popular spot with the locals, the Taurama Aquatic and Indoor Centre is a modern sports complex opened in 2015, home to two outdoor pools (25 m and 50 m long) and six Olympic standard volleyball and basketball courts.

Hiri Moale Festival. This takes place on the weekend of PNG's Independence Day in mid-September. The centrepiece is a race of up to 100 traditional Lakatoi canoes, recalling the sea voyages undertaken by the Motuan people from the Port Moresby area who exchanged sago and clay pots with the people of neighbouring Gulf Province. The departure of the canoes from Port Moresby's Ela Beach is really spectacular. The festival is the city's main cultural show with traditional performances, as well as the canoes.

Buy

Groceries There are basically four stores to buy groceries if you are a foreigner in Port Moresby: Andersons Foodland, now called SVS Harbour City, Stop and Shop in Hohola, and Boroko Foodworld in Boroko and Gordons. Andersons is next to the Royal Papua Yacht club and usually suffices. Otherwise there is Foodworld which is larger and located over the hill in Boroko. An even larger and newer Boroko Foodworld is further east in Gordons. Port Moresby's shopping mall is Vision City in Waigani. There is a large hypermarket called RH selling anything from household furniture to baked beans. Their supply is abundant and the quality is good and prices are competitive. Imported goods might not always be there. Often if you see something you like you have to buy a lot of it because there is no telling when the next shipment is coming. This doesn't apply to basic foodstuffs but rather to things that might not be in high demand such as herring. RH has basically closed this gap.

Vision City Mega Mall. Biggest mall in Port Moresby, with a large supermarket, range of restaurants, and many other shops and services, and a cinema. Be careful of aggressive customers. Plenty of taxis available but best to call a known driver if you have one.

Harbour Side. Collection of businesses, restaurants and a supermarket

Waterfront Shopping Mall. Small but clean and upmarket shopping centre with an excellent Foodworld supermarket.

Eat

Asia Aromas. Chinese Restaurant serving great food. Is popular with the local expatriate community.

Daikoku. It offers great Japanese cuisine cooked directly at your table (teppanyaki). Don't forget to try the "Puk Puk" which is Tok Pisin for crocodile.

Royal Papua Yacht Club. Serves good Australian cuisine with some Papua New Guinean touches. Has à la carte menu and a buffet that varies according to the day of the week. An invitation from a member might be required to enter.

Crowne Plaza. Has a wonderful Mediterranean restaurant which is probably the most expensive on the island. But if you feel like splurging this is definitely the place to go, it'll still be a good bargain.

Port Moresby Golf Club. Has a nice little lunch restaurant which serves à la carte or a buffet during lunch hours.

Fu Gui. Assortment of Asian style cuisine. Try the Nasi Lemak chicken.

Lamana Hotel. A nice place for a quick lunch buffet with friendly staff and a happening casino at night. The food is good and the only place where you get Indian food.

Tasty Bite. Premiere South Indian restaurant in Port Moresby.

Tandoor On The Harbour. Another highly regarded Indian restaurant.

Beachside Brasserie. The hotel restaurant is well-appointed and has an extensive menu, especially grills and seafood. Also great for breakfast.

Buffalo Burgers. Top burger place in town.

Hosi Ramen. First ramen joint in PNG

Poolside at Airways. Rooftop complex in the upmarket Airways Hotel. Buffets, a la carte, and sandwiches from KC Deli, all overlooking the airport.

Jacksons Bar and Restaurant. A complex in the Gateway Hotel, overlooking the airport. Their best thing is crispy-base pizzas.

Drink

The drink of choice in Port Moresby as in the rest of Papua New Guinea is South Pacific lager: "SP beer". However, once that cultural experience is done, you will probably prefer to move on to the more refined 'SP Export' lager, or 'Niugini Ice' beer.

To buy alcohol you have to go to one of the characteristic yellow and green coloured shops that are usually integrated into the supermarkets. You don't want to go to the ones that aren't. They have a relatively limited selection of wines, mostly Australian or New Zealand brands. The prices are higher than you would expect because of the taxation of alcohol. The locals tend to get quite rowdy when they drink (as everywhere else) so it's best to avoid anyone that seems to be under the influence. Typically most expats drink at hotel bars or sports club bars, which have a more relaxed atmosphere.

Duffy Cafe. PNG's premiere cafe, making great use of the local beans and also serving good food. Main location is in Harbour Side but there are other branches, including in the international terminal departure lounge.

Sleep

Hotels are generally quite expensive in Port Moresby, and the quality of accommodation can be disappointing. Research hotel options before you book to check current standards and arrangements for airport transfers. Due to the security situation it's likely that you won't leave your hotel after dark, so choose one with good dining and recreation options.

Airways Hotel. Has both hotel rooms and apartments for long-stay guests. Has a nice pool with a view down the hill to the airport, and a great breakfast buffet. PNG's only delicatessen and an Indonesian spa are also located on the premises.

The Crowne Plaza. Amenities include a nice pool, an international class restaurant, a fitness centre, and a business lounge.

Gateway Hotel. Somewhat cheaper airport alternative to the Airways Hotel.

Grand Papua Hotel. A hotel that describes itself as the first "deluxe hotel" to open in Port Moresby. Rooms are expensive but modern and clean. Contains a spa and beauty salon as well as a gymnasium and sauna.

Holiday Inn. Located a bit off from the centre this hotel has very nice rooms, some sports facilities, and a great pizza restaurant (with live music at times).

Holiday Inn Express. A counterpart to the Holiday Inn: cheaper but maybe better due to newer rooms. Free breakfast.

Ela Beach Hotel. Renovated rooms overlook Ela Beach - perhaps the best of the Coral Sea chain's hotels.

The Stanley Hotel & Suites. This large upmarket hotel is directly connected to the Vision City Mall.

Loloata Island Resort. Little lorries to get you to and from the island, rooms over the water, rattan-type chairs around the pool.