Poipet.
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Overview

Poipet hosts Cambodia's main border crossing with Thailand, which links northwest Cambodia to Aranyaprathet, and onward to Bangkok. Cross-border activity has made the town grow to be larger than its provincial capital, Sisophon.

Poipet is on the fully paved National Hwy 5 which runs to Sisophon and then further on the south side of the Tonle Sap Lake to Battambang and Phnom Penh. At Sisophon, National Hwy 6 branches off to provide a fully paved arterial route along the north of the Tonle Sap to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

Understand

Most travellers consider Poipet "a dump". Poipet hosts a bewildering array of touts, beggars, thieves and dodgy casinos for day tripping Thais, which all contrive to separate money from the unwary. The town has one main street that runs approximately southeast from the roundabout at the immigration offices. North of this street is an average Cambodian town; to the south is a poorer slum area. Both areas have their own markets: clean and airy and dishevelled and stinking, respectively. The latter is likely to be more interesting to an observer. For travellers staying overnight at the border, Poipet represents a cheaper option than the adjacent Thai town, Aranyaprathet, particularly for those heading into Cambodia (see below for avoiding overpriced transport).

While most travellers only pass through, the town can provide the savvy and curious with some fascinating insights into Cambodia's grisly underside. Ever a transport hub, Poipet hosts the western railhead of Cambodia's defunct, but regenerating network which once connected to the functioning Thai network.

Border location The nearest Thai town is Aranyaprathet, about 6 km from the border. The border is in central Poipet. The border is open 07:00-20:00. There is no time difference between Cambodia and Thailand.

Immediately next to the Thai immigration facilities is Rongkleu Market, which host banks, cafes, a convenience store, money exchangers, and buses.

Get in

Poipet is a large town that is well connected with reasonably priced buses to various points in the country. If you're on a bus to Poipet with a view to leaving Cambodia, the bus will stop at its company's Poipet offices first.

Taxis to Poipet should be cheaper than those from Poipet, if you can keep middle men out of it.

Leaving Cambodia at this border is generally unproblematic. They will generally not steal from it, but it's best to keep your valuables on you.

Rongkleu Market has buses to Bangkok's Victory Monument, Mo Chit bus station and Suvarnabhumi airport. There are also buses from the market to other Thai towns, such as Nakhon Ratchasima and Chachoengsao. Such buses allow travellers to avoid Aranyaprathet town, though Aran is better connected.

From Aranyaprathet, songthaews (pickup trucks that act as buses) run between the 7-Eleven in Rongkleu Market and the out-of-town Tesco Lotus hypermarket, passing through central Aran on the main road.

On the Thai side, entry to the Thai immigration facilities is to the left of the main road which approaches the border. Travellers therefore must head towards the busy Rongkleu Market for about 2 or 3 metres before seeing the queues for immigration.

When in line for Thai immigration, both arrivals and departures, there are vats of cool drinking water that travellers can help themselves to, if they have a bottle to fill.

As of May 2023, visa issuance and immigration are now done in the same room; just follow the "Foreigners" signs at the border. The visa-on-arrival office is in the back of the room, which is dominated by the queues to enter the country. Remember to pick up an arrival card in the room as well.

Queues are longest at around midday when many buses arrive. Arriving earlier or later will let you sail through. The paperwork is very simple. It requires no assistance, regardless of what touts may say. Forms are available at the counter to the left of the visa window, although a "helpful" tout will likely offer you one as soon as you approach the office. Take the form and otherwise ignore the tout. A passport photo is no longer required for the visa, but as of May 2019 the visa officials are turning down the photos and saying they prefer to just scan your passport. They now ask for a 100-baht fee regardless of whether you have a photo, though if you insist a few times that there is no such fee, they will eventually give up and grumpily tell you to have a seat and wait. This is a bluff, as you will still have your visa in hand within minutes.

As of April 2018, a work permit and letter from employer is required to get an EB (business) extension. If you are not working you will need to apply for an EG ("looking for work") extension, or, if you are aged over 55, an ER (retirement) extension. The EG extension is a one-off, and comes in 1-, 3-, and 6-month versions, 1- and 3-month are single entry and the 6 month is multiple entry. Once you have had an EG extension you cannot extend it or reapply on a subsequent visit. Confusingly, E class visas are unrelated to the online visas. Make sure the officials know that you know this.

To elsewhere in Cambodia The official transport monopoly "scam" One's first steps after the arrivals office lead to the Transport Monopoly Tout Zone (see map). The racket here is the dressing of expensive privately run transport as official policy.

Free, so-called government buses or minibuses await tourists emerging from immigration. They go to an inconveniently out-of-town transportation depot: the . They cease running at about 18:00. Overpriced food is available while one waits for an expensive bus or shared taxi.

Only the diligent and stubborn will avoid this one (see below) because police are beastly to and extort drivers that pick up tourists near the border. The police and "helpful" others pester tourists emerging from arrivals and basically cajole them onto the buses. Most tourists succumb, either unaware of the dishonesty or unwilling to go against a uniform. If such a set up irks you, remember that despite how it initially feels you have every right to do as you please in Poipet and you can smilingly, tactfully and respectfully decline to follow their instructions.

Some tourists have reported being taken to a private travel agency instead of the proper depot, under the pretense that the station "is under construction". You don't have to deal with them but the private company may be cheaper than the "officials".

There are no rules against introducing yourself to fellow travelers and sharing the ride.

Drivers who work for the cartel will generally deliver tourists to wherever they choose in Siem Reap without any problems. Though possible tricks include being dropped in a dusty parking lot out of town or at a commission paying guesthouse, which is most of them. Simply do not pay until you are happy with the destination. Do not believe that taxis are prohibited from entering the centre of Siem Reap.

Wherever you end up, tuk-tuk drivers will be waiting.

You may arrive a couple of kilometers outside central Siem Reap, where tuk-tuk drivers pay the cartel for access to arriving tourists. They recoup their money by taking tourists to commission paying accommodation, which they may offer to do very cheaply, perhaps for free. Their big money however comes from temple trips and they will implore you to hire them on for this.

Outside the Transport Monopoly Avoid this scam by saying you want to have lunch, find a guesthouse, see Poipet, go to the post office or casino or karaoke, basically anything that isn't finding a bus. Then walk down the street, the pressure eases off away from the roundabout and you should be able to pick up a ride without being bothered.

Just don't start negotiating with a driver if a policeman is standing next to you. It's unfortunately their job (i.e., orders from bent bosses, rather than legal duty) to intervene if a tourist tries to deal with a driver outside the monopoly. There are many taxi drivers in town.

Non-tourist buses depart from the bus company offices scattered along the main street a little way from immigration (see map). Departures are in the morning and can generally only be made after staying overnight in Poipet. However, the taste of victory over Cambodia's institutional corruption can be sweet.

Pickup trucks can be found near the border and in the town, they run to Siem Reap and Battambang, although changing in Sisophon is likely.

The monopoly only affects transport from Poipet.

Poipet's airport has no scheduled flights.

Alternatively, have the monopoly work for you. Take the free shuttle out of town and then hitch-hike.

Get around

The town is relatively easily covered on foot, for those who wish to explore it. Hotels are within walking distance of customs; though on a hot day, you and your luggage may appreciate a motodop (motorbike taxi), which for 500–1,000 riel will take you to any part of Poipet. One could also be useful for escaping the transport monopoly hot zone of immediately outside immigration and finding a non-scam taxi.

There is also the free bus to the transportation depot, which is perhaps a false friend.

Spending time in Poipet involves being hassled, scammed and frustrated. Though these problems mainly fall on the post-border, bag-carrying weary. Check in, dump the bags and shower. The town then loses much of its hassle.

See and do

Poipet is a border town typical of where shocking economic disparities exist between two nations, not unlike Tijuana or Ciudad del Este or less famously, impoverished Sungai Kolok in southern Thailand, which borders more prosperous Malaysia. The town offer the usual Khmer mix of markets, stalls, coffee shops and beer gardens.

Poipet's growing gambling industry has spawned several large, opulent casinos, in rather sharp contrast to general squalor of the town. Gambling is illegal in Thailand and in Cambodia, though this has not prevented some well connected somebodies from putting up casinos before Cambodian immigration. Thais use the casinos to circumvent their own country's interdictions, though Khmer are not allowed at the tables.

The amateur anthropologist can watch Asian businessmen entertain themselves at the casinos or at the karaoke bars throughout town that double as brothels. Watching the coachloads of package tourists being shepherded through customs may also count as a valid pastime.

It is a near certainty that the casino operation is run by organised crime. Given that you may want to think twice before giving them your money.

The area around the old railway station is particularly interesting. This slum backs onto the filthy trickle of a river that marks the Thailand-Cambodia border and at around dusk tuk-tuks brimming with people can be seen making their way to the unofficial border crossing, an unstable bamboo bridge 400 m down the dirt track south from the railway station. The path passes a small Cambodian police station. The Thai side is a minefield, but the well-trodden path can be followed and leads to a road. Being stopped at a Thai police checkpoint once on the road is likely. Using this unofficial border crossing, apart from perhaps a few paces on the Thai side for bragging rights, will likely cause problems for conventional travellers, particularly upon their exit from Thailand. This option should only be used in the most extreme circumstances that preclude the town's regular border crossing.

People with a desire to help others can find opportunities in Poipet. Any assistance or conscious effort to speak Khmer or interact with local people on their own level will be highly appreciated. He will act as a guide to Poipet and tell you some interesting stories about the area.

Wat Mong Chin. Quiet place, many statues.

Steam sauna. Sauna room (~65°C), steam room (steam is usually switched on demand when someone enters), two pools: hot (~40-41°C) and cold (~12-13°C). They give some nice herbal tea, but not much, so it's good idea to bring water with you. There is a big blue sign "Steam&sauna" visible from the main street. (Apr 2023)

Buy

There are also ATMs dispensing baht. For exchange, the banks don't open until 10:00, and after a weekend or holiday they may be short on US dollars.

Look for the traders with glass cabinets full of money, it's their way of advertising. There are banks and ATMs close to the border but Canadia Bank is a little further away.

Eat and drink

If you're a sucker for the minibus to the Poipet Tourist International Terminal, you'll probably also be a sucker for the expensive snacks next to where it departs.

Very close to immigration, on the north side of the roundabout, Long Sen Guesthouse has a convenience store. In front of the post office is a little street stall does reasonable meals and coffee and doesn't rip off tourists, which is a pleasant break from the border stress.

In the duty-free zone, in front of the Poipet Resort Casino is a laid back coffee shop and cafe. Also, some of the casinos offer buffets. Though they have dress codes, so you may have to spruce up a bit. Holiday Palace and Diamond serve good coffee and even frappes and have air conditioning, although in Diamond you need to explore a bit to find it, an interesting experience in itself. Food in the casinos is good and a welcome change from the standard restaurants in town.

Beyond the immediate border area, the markets probably offer the most atmospheric dining. Also Tropicana Resort & Casino near Holiday and Grand and the other casinos at the border has a pretty sumptuous buffet.

Sleep

While many choose Aranyaprathet to spend the night, Poipet does have a reasonable selection of accommodation. For the budget conscious, it is a cheaper option.

City Poipet Hotel. Clean and quite cheap compare to other options. For sure the best option if obliged to sleep in Poipet. The restaurant next door from this hotel sells the most incredible pork, which is cooked on the side of the street. Excellent choice for breakfast.

Liv Hov Guest House. Ask for Lee Hou.

Poipet Phnom Pich Guest House. A good budget option, well placed for exploring the slum behind the station. Cheap, acceptable, with free Wi-Fi (prices as of 2015).

Sophal Thavy Guesthouse. Free Wi-Fi.

Hak Huot Hotel I. Bar, rooftop pool and terrace.

Holiday Palace Casino & Hotel. Bar/restaurant, cafe, gym, and, yes, a casino.

DNA Star Vegas Resort. The splashy pool and ambience will have you thinking you're more like in Las Vegas than in the dodgy straits of Poipet.