Oaxaca (city).
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Overview

Oaxaca (officially Oaxaca de Juárez, pronounced Wa-HAH-ka) is the colorful, delicious, and culturally-rich capital of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Its historical city center, along with the archeological ruins of Monte Albán overlooking it, is a .

This article also covers nearby villages in the Oaxaca Valley, including Santa María del Tule, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula and Matatlán.

Understand

People have lived here since earliest times; the first settlements were Zapotec and Mixtec. The nearby sites of Monte Albán and Mitla were built by the Zapotecs and Mixtecs, and the former is regarded as a precursor to present-day Oaxaca. The Aztecs arrived around 1440, and the current name derives from Aztec "huax yacac", meaning "in the nose of the squash". In 1521, the Spanish led by Francisco de Orozco, came looking for gold. In the 19th century, it grew rich from the export of cochineal, the red dye.

During the Spanish era, the name of the city was Antequera, but after Mexican independence it was changed to Oaxaca. It was known as "la verde Antequera" (the green Antequera) for the greenish stone that many of its buildings were built from - the city center today still has something of a green cast compared to many other Mexican cities, because of both the stone and the many colorful flowering trees lining the streets. Perhaps the most beloved Mexican president, Benito Juárez (whom the airport in Mexico City is named after) was born in the state and started his political career in the city. After his death in 1872, his family name was added to the city's official name, which since has been Oaxaca de Juárez.

In 2006, violent unrest began as a teacher's strike. At one occasion police opened fire on strikers assembled to a non-violent demonstration. After that the teacher union members and people opposed to the state governor formed the Popular Assembly of the Peoples of Oaxaca (APPO), a left-wing movement that took over government buildings and functions, and eventually ran the city as an anarchist community for several months.

The city is a very-much government-run and tourist-safe area - in fact, it comes across as especially gentrified and tourist-oriented compared to many other historic Mexican cities. A massive 77% of the municipality has employment that is related in some way to tourism.

Located in the tropics but at an altitude of above sea level, Oaxaca has a tropical savanna climate. The dry season, from November to April sees very little rain, and night temperatures usually drop down to around but on occasion down to freezing. Nevertheless, daytime highs average even in the coolest month, December. Because of the altitude and latitude, it is advisable to wear sunscreen and reapply during the day.

Daytime temperatures increase each month from January to April, which is the hottest month. After that comes the rainy season from May to October with somewhat cooler daytime temperature variation and warmer nighttime temperatures, but there are still 16 to 17 days of rain every month on average.

Tourist information. Free maps, info, and other places of interest in Oaxaca state.

Get in

Ground transportation The airport is about from the city center, a 20-30 minute drive.

As you leave the arrivals area, there are two taxi agency booths where you can purchase a ride into the city. Other agencies, including the ubiquitous yellow taxis in the city, do not seem to take arrivals from the airport. A colectivo is a 10-12 seat van that will leave when full and drop you off at your desired address. The drop off order is determined based on the other passengers in your van. However, taxis especial may not be available at all times.

To get to the airport via colectivo, get your ticket the day before at the office near the Zocalo at the Alameda de Leon. Take your airline ticket and they will book you a seat on the colectivo that will get you to the airport in time.

From Mexico City the ride takes 6½ hours. The bus has a bathroom and makes at least one stop. Another possibility: in order to skip the chaotic TAPO bus station in Mexico city, take the frequent Estrella Roja bus directly from Airport Terminal 1 to Puebla and then transfer to Oaxaca.

From Puerto Escondido the ride takes 3 hours. A direct highway opened in 2024, making this route much faster than before.

From Huatulco the ride takes 5 hours.

Two shuttle van companies do multiple daily runs between Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca (City) and are a faster alternative to the bus.

Get around

The central, tourist-oriented part of town is well signposted and easily walkable by foot, although taxis are somewhat plentiful and buses numerous and cheap. You can pick up a free city map from one of several information booths, including one right outside the cathedral.

Orientation The Spanish laid out a colonial town in the present grid pattern in the 16th century. Later development hasn't touched it much since the 1800s, so today it makes for a charming old-time Centro Histórico (Historic Center). The under the UNESCO World Heritage Site designation comprise a roughly 15-by-15 grid of square blocks surrounding the Zócalo (central plaza), bound by peripheral arterials. The entire area has colorful antique 2- and 3-story buildings with charming small businesses, lined by well-maintained sidewalks. This is especially true within a few blocks of the Zocalo and the Templo de Santo Domingo, 5 blocks north, connected by the pedestrianized Macedonio Alcalá Street. It is divided into north and south by Independencia Avenue; the north tends to have upscale dining and artisan boutiques, the south has more markets and a "locals" feel.

Across the highway bounding the north edge of Centro, about a 20 minute walk from the Zócalo, lies Xochimilco, the oldest residential neighborhood of the city featuring art studios and street murals, and Reforma, a wealthy neighborhood speckled with trendy cafes and restaurants.

As with other Mexican cities, there may be more than one road with the same name (Mexicans often use the nearest corner to navigate) and a road's name may change from one end to the other. This is particularly true for the city's downtown. All streets crossing Independencia Avenue change names except for two other main streets running along with Independencia: Morelos Avenue and Hidalgo Avenue. From east to west street names change when crossing Macedonio Alcalá (north of Independencia) and Bustamante Street (south).

Colectivos (shared buses) to the outer villages leave from hubs near Mercado de Abastos and Estadio Eduardo Vasconcelos baseball stadium.

By taxi There are plenty of taxis found in the Centro Histórico, including a taxi rank near the Zocalo.

For Android users, DiDi is geo-restricted in Google's Play Store depending on your country of residence, but you can download an APK easily and "sideload" it. It won't let you successfully add a payment card in countries that it doesn't service, but it will let you add any card once you use it in Mexico.

See

Centro Histórico Oaxaca's streets have a tranquil and organic feel to them. Much of the joy of an Oaxaca trip comes from simply strolling the streets of the Centro Histórico, sitting in a sidewalk cafe on the Zócalo, and soaking up the atmosphere.

Zócalo. Catch a street act, watch a clown entertain children, buy a souvenir or just people watch from a sidewalk cafe as time passes by. Dozens of vendors have set up booths around the square. This is also a frequent site for political sit-in protests, particularly by teachers protesting government changes to state education, leading to massive demonstrations in 2006 and 2014. As a result, the square often has tents.

Catedral Metropolitana. Oaxaca's largest church dates from 1533 and is known for its unique interpretation of baroque style architecture.

Templo de Santo Domingo. A spectacular church built from 1570-1608, with subsequent Baroque renovations. It has been restored. Particularly noteworthy on the south side is the elaborate Capilla de la Virgen del Rosario, as well as the Capilla de la Cruz de Huatulco, which contains the legendary pre-Hispanic cross of Huatulco. The ornate golden interior decoration make this the most popular wedding spot in Oaxaca, so expect to see such celebrations on weekends.

Jardín Etnobotánico. A former army base, converted to a large botanical garden in 1993. The garden, designed by Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo who led the project to create it, has the largest collection of living cacti and agave plants in Oaxaca. Paths take visitors though the constantly growing collections that show the rich biodiversity of Oaxacan plant life. Entrance to the garden is through guided tours only, limited to 30 people, and no reservations are accepted. Spanish tours are one hour long, and English tours are two hours.

Casa de Benito Juarez. Historic childhood home of former Mexican President Benito Juarez. It's an unassuming home fitting for a man of humble roots.

Museo Textil de Oaxaca. An 18th century mansion (restored in 2007) with exhibits featuring the designs, techniques and creative processes used for the production of Oaxacan textiles. In addition, the museum regularly runs conferences and workshops.

La Casa de la Ciudad. Features exhibitions devoted to architectural styles, historical photographs and urban art. Two aerial photographs taken of Oaxaca in 1990 and 2006 are embedded in an underlit floor so that visitors can walk over them and explore the changes in the city that occurred during those 16 years.

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca. This is a museum of regional history and culture, with exhibits on Zapotec, Mixtec, and Olmec civilizations, as well as colonial and revolutionary era history. The highlight is the collection of treasure excavated from Tomb 7 at Monte Albán by archaeologist Alfonso Caso in the 1930s. The Museo occupies most rooms of the Convent of Santo Domingo, so it is huge and impressive: you will need a few hours to visit it! It also offers nice views over the plaza and the botanical garden.

Centro Fotográfico Álvarez Bravo. Established by Mexican photographer Manuel Álvarez Bravo and housed in a beautifully-restored colonial building, this center hosts changing exhibits of work by Mexican and international photographers.

Instituto de Artes Gráficos. A smaller venue which hosts rotating exhibits of work by national and international artists.

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca. Housed in a building known as the Casa de Cortés, this museum hosts exhibits of local and nationally recognized modern artists.

Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños. This late 17th-century building houses a collection of historic and modern Oaxacan art on two floors.

Museo del Palacio. This 19th-century building houses a mural by Mexican painter Arturo Garcia Bustos, and hosts rotating exhibits about the history of the city.

Museo de Grana Cochinilla. Museum about the cochinilla bug and the nopal plant it feeds upon, which is used to create cochineal dye, also known as Red 4.

Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayo. Astoundingly large collection of pre-Hispanic sculptures and other works collected by Rufino Tamayo. As an artist involved in both early-1900s modernist movements and the celebration of Mexican heritage, Tamayo had an eye for outstanding depictions of faces and human form, and a desire to keep historic art from leaving the country. The pieces are exhibited as works of art rather than as anthropological artifacts.

Do

Just west of town is . Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, this is one of the most impressive ruins in Latin America. The Zapotec built this site around 500 B.C. Early in its history, it had about 5,000 residents, but by 100 A.D. it had about 17,000 people living there, making it one of the largest cities in Mesoamerica at the time. By the time the Spanish arrived, it had been in decay for a long while. Take a taxi or an hourly shuttle bus. Allow two or three hours to walk around.

Estadio Eduardo Vasconcelos. Oaxaca has a popular and successful baseball team, the Guerreros, who play from late March through late August in a modern, well maintained stadium. Good concessions at reasonable prices.

Rugby is played on Saturdays with the Zinacantli and Jabalies Rugby Clubs, which host the annual Torneo de Dia de los Muertos.

Benito Juarez National Park. Large natural park with hiking trails, zip lines, and great opportunities for bird watchers.

Hoofing It In Oaxaca. Organizes regular hikes, both day and the occasional overnight, to various locations around Oaxaca and also into the Sierra Norte.

Guelaguetza festival. The Guelaguetza highlights the traditional practices of the various indigeneous cultures from the state of Oaxaca. The main days are the Mondays following July 16 (Feast Day of Saint Carmen). The term Guelaguetza, the most important custom of the Oaxacan people, derives from the Zapotec term "guendalezaa" which means "offering, present, fulfillment" because, during colonial times, the wealthy Spanish elite had the legal right to receive the first and best of the harvest collected by the indigenous people.

Día de Muertos. A Mexican holiday that traditionally takes place in candle-lit city cemeteries, but today takes place in front of almost every church in the historic city center. Involves a lot of partying, festivities, facial make-up, costumes, lights, and possibly a few fireworks. An incredible experience to behold.

MOC Adventures. Provides small week-long tours during Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca. The tours introduce people to the history of Oaxaca and the Day of the Dead by engaging them in its unique celebrations such as visiting the Panteóns (cemeteries), comprasas and other important events that take place during Dia de los Muertos.

Noche de Rábanos. If you happen to be in Oaxaca on December 23, you won't want to miss this unusual festival. Competitors create scenes using carved radishes. It's a long-standing tradition in Oaxaca, and was started as a formal competition in 1897.

Nearby villages Along Macedonio Alcala street are many tour operators with a range of destinations.

To the east, down Highway 190 towards Mitla:

Arbol del Tule. This tree has the largest base of any tree in the world. Legend has it that it is over 1400 years old. It is just outside of a church with a lovely garden around it.

Teotitlan del Valle. A village famous for its weaving. You can book a longer stay here at the Casa Sagrada. Be sure to check out the Vida Nueva women's cooperative in Teotitlan (one block east of the main square) that is striving to use and instill organic methods in its dyes.

Fundacion En Via. A non-profit microfinance organization that runs tours to Teotitlan del Valle every Thursday and Saturday. They are working to fight poverty around Oaxaca and to educate travelers about the power of micro-finance. In Teotitlan, participants get to meet two groups of three women who are applying for their micro-loans. Participants hear about their lives and projects, which could be anything from weaving the beautiful rugs for which the town is famous, to making tortillas, raising chickens, making pinatas, or selling flowers in the market. At the end of the day 100% of the tour fee is given as an interest-free micro-loan to one of the two groups of women. Trips run every Thursday 13:00-19:00 and every Saturday 09:00-16:00.

Tlacolula Market. A large Sunday market, one of the oldest in Mesoamerica, where people from around the region gather to sell their wares. Offers a wide selection of local cuisine.

Yagul. Although frequently overlooked in favor of more extensive ruins at Mitla and Monte Albán, the ruins at Yagul are more pastoral (and therefore more similar to its original setting) and much less overrun with tourists.

Santiago Matatlán. The self-proclaimed "World Capital of Mezcal". Many fábricas de mezcal you can visit. Especially recommended if you like mezcal, have also visited Tequila, Jalisco, and have access to a vehicle. The best known producer here is Rancho Zapata, which also has a restaurant. It is owned by a man that goes only by the name of Tío (uncle) Pablo, who won first prize for his mezcal in Chicago in 2003.

Mitla. An important Zapotec city and religious center, built between 1 AD and 200 AD, famous for its Mesoamerican buildings intermingled with the modern town. The Zapotecs called it Lyobaam, "Place of the Dead". Inside Tomb 1 there is the famous "Column of Life" that you can embrace to find out how many years you have left to live. Spanish is helpful here as the ruins officials can explain how to use the column correctly.

To the northeast, in the Sierra Norte:

Llano Grande. One of eight mountain villages in the Sierra Norte. Besides a small wood industry, they provide so-called ecotourism. Trips over several days are available, providing accommodation at the village (elevation: approx. ). The altitude makes hiking exhausting but not impossible even for unpracticed participants. Hints: Speak Spanish and try to tramp back down instead of waiting several hours for the bus.

San Agustín Etla. The site of the Centro de las Artes - San Agustín (CASA), a former factory that has been transformed to an arts center. To arrive, one can take a shared taxi from the Central bus station in Oaxaca.

The cenote at San Sebastian de las Grutas. A beautiful cenote hidden inside a cave. The entrance is impossible to find without a local guide; ask around in the town of .

Learn

Amigos del Sol. Classes start any day of the week.

Becari. Has a friendly and flexible staff, and a central location. Travelers who are interested in the Zapotec language should inquire about Zapotec classes, which are offered here.

Instituto Cultural Oaxaca. This is the longest established school in Oaxaca, with a very lovely campus, most appropriate to university students who are in Mexico for course credit. A great place for independent travellers to study, as well, as it provides an easy way to meet other travellers and local Oaxacans. Its program includes academic courses to teach Spanish grammar, workshops ranging from cooking classes to weaving to teach about Oaxacan culture, and an "intercambio" session, which links a Oaxacan student studying English with an Instituto student so they both may practice their languages.

Oaxaca Spanish Magic. Flor Bautista has a small school that operates in a lovely garden. There, you will find caring and patient teachers who focus on both grammar and conversation skills. The teachers make great efforts to help the students adjust to Oaxaca and offer extras such as salsa and cooking classes, as well as weekend excursions to pueblos and other events.

Casa de los Sabores. Classes in Oaxacan cuisine are given by Chef Pilar Cabrera, owner and chef of La Olla Restaurante.

Seasons of My Heart. Susana Trilling offers courses of different lengths. She also has a cookbook, Seasons of my Heart: A Culinary Journey through Oaxaca, Mexico. Her classes are often full – book ahead.

Alma de mi Tierra. Nora Valencia, a native of Oaxaca, instructs cooking classes and leads culinary tours in both English and Spanish.

Casa Crespo. Host Oscar Carrizosa accepts small numbers of guests for several hours of pleasant shopping at a local market, food preparation and eating, in his iconic restaurant less than a block from the Oaxaca Cultural Museum and Santo Domingo Cathedral.

Buy

Money Many businesses, restaurants, and hotels in Oaxaca accept major credit cards as payment, but it is still important to have cash on hand for other times, such as for taxis and smaller restaurants and businesses and street vendors. There are two ATMs at the Oaxaca Airport.

The easiest way to access cash in Mexican pesos is to go to a bank and use an ATM to withdraw cash from your own bank account. Alternatively, the currencies of other countries can be exchanged into pesos at banks or various currency exchange booths, both of which are quite common in the central part of the city. For example, the banks might require a photocopy of your main passport page, which you will have to get at a copying shop for a peso or so, and they might have longer queues. Again, ATMs are far simpler than any of this.

People working in these businesses are likely not to speak English. This shouldn't be a problem once you figure out what the process is. So make sure you have your passport with you and realize that you may need a photocopy of your passport that they will keep.

Oaxaca is blessed with an abundance of mercados and tianguis, all of which have at least some vendors selling local artesanias, local folk art.

Oaxaca is famous for colorful fantastical animal carvings known as alebrijes. The first alebrijes were created in Mexico City by Pedro Linares, inspired by fevered hallucinations. Soon, Manuel Jimenez took them back to his native Oaxaca where he and others began making the fanciful creatures by carving copal wood. They are now made in several towns around Oaxaca, particularly in the village of San Martin Tilcajete. A number of other Oaxacan artists have become very in-demand for their alebrijes, including Jacobo Angeles, Martin Sandiego, Julia Fuentes, and Miguel Sandiego.

Barro negro (black pottery) from Oaxaca is distinctive, often being mistaken for a modern technique, though the tradition is known to have been produced by the people who once lived in Monte Albán. Older pieces have a gray matte finish while newer pieces usually have a metallic sheen to decorative elements, due to a process that was re-discovered by Doña Rosa in 1950 and is now commonplace in Oaxaca.

Weavers in Zapotec villages have been making rugs for almost 500 years. The tradition began in 1535 when Fray Juan Lopez de Zarate arrived in town with sheep, looms, and a mission to spread the gospel to the local Zapotec and Mixtec communities. Every handmade rug is a work of art with a range of designs, some surprisingly modern, many traditional geometric patterns. The village of Teotitlan Del Valle is particularly well known for having several master rug weavers whose workshops often welcome visitors to come learn about the techniques and the history behind the craft of fine rug making.

Mercado de Artesanías. A colorful handicrafts market focusing on hand-woven textiles, with additional shops selling alebrijes (wooden carvings) and alfarería (pottery).

Mercado Benito Juarez. Everything from clothing and leather goods to mole, fresh fruits, flowers, and bulk grains. For meats, prices are a bit high for being unrefrigerated, you might want to try a supermarket instead. One of the few places in town to find brown rice (ask the bulk grain vendors for arroz integrál) or cigarette lighters (check the sidewalk vendors in the area).

Mercado de la Merced. This traditional market has a focus on food products and produce, much of it organic. Specialties include bread, cheese, and tortillas. It also has a number of food stands and restaurants, for eating in or take-away.

Pochote Xochimilco. Handmade tortillas, tlayudas, pastries, fresh-squeezed juice, mezcal, vegetables and woven goods. The delicious prepared food makes a great breakfast or lunch and there's a sitting area to enjoy it.

Mercado at El Llano Park. An active market on the sidewalks surrounding the park. This market has been driven out by the authorities and relocated to just north of the Pantion.

Mercado de Abastos. One of the largest markets in Mexico, divided into sections for food, clothing, arts, crafts, and other wares. This market is huge and can be very busy, particularly on Saturdays. Watch for pickpockets.

Grocery stores Piticó has the largest (though not large) grocery stores within the Centro Historico.

Soriana. A large chain which carries all the basics.

Chedraui. A large hypermarket (supermercado) with better selection and quality than Soriana. Has a well-stocked pharmacy as well as a bakery and a deli.

Eat

Foodies regard Oaxaca as having the most fascinating and delicious regional cuisine in Mexico, with ingredients and cooking techniques that have been passed from generation to generation for more than a millennium. The state's agriculture supplies heritage varieties of corn, squash, tomatoes, cacao and other products that are produced locally on very small scale farms. Like most of Mexico, corn is the staple food, with corn tortillas called blandas accompanying most meals.

Oaxaca is known for mole, a diverse set of savory sauces made from fruits, chili peppers and spices, thickened with nuts or seeds. Some moles take days to make involving more than 40 ingredients, featuring chili peppers such as pasillas Oaxaqueños, amarillos, chilhuacles, chilcostles, chile anchos and costeños. You will encounter the famous "seven moles": manchamanteles, chichilo, amarillo, rojo, verde, coloradito and the king of moles: negro. Don't limit yourself to these, as there are as many moles as there are abuelas in kitchens across Oaxaca.

Mercado de la Merced. There are several excellent eateries in this traditional market. La Güerita, located on the northeast side of the market, is well-known for its memelas and huitlacoche, but has only a few seats. La Florecita (no. 37), with many more seats available, is particularly popular for its tlayudas and hot chocolate.

Mercado Benito Juárez, the large market one block southwest of the Zocalo, has a few stalls offering ready-to-eat hot meals, mostly along the south wall, and a place to sit and eat them.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre. A market the size of a city block, filled with breakfast and lunch food stalls. Food stalls also line the streets outside the market serving up hot, savory tlayudas and tostadas. Local women offer up chapulines (grasshopper), and you'll find countertops inside that serve up moles, soups and desserts. There are 4 entrances, at the center of each street that surrounds the market. The east-side entrance, facing C. Cabrera, has the Pasillo de Humo, a narrow hall filled with smoke from the meat vendors who cook your purchase for you right there; arguably one of the best deals on ready-to-eat meat in town.

Basílica de la Soledad Plaza. The plaza in front of this church is filled with stores selling nieves (snows), frozen sorbets flavored with any number of fruits. The most classic flavoring is tuna, the fruit of the prickly pear cactus.

Cabuche. A pleasant little restaurant with fresh-tasting Oaxacan cuisine and an understanding of vegetarian/vegan requirements.

Las Quince Letras. Offers a wide selection of moles, including three-mole combination plates and varieties not easily found elsewhere.

Itanoní. Non-GMO corn-based quesadillas, tacos and tamales are prepared fresh to order on an open comal.

La Casa de la Abuela. Offers a good selection of regional cuisine, with great views from the balcony.

La Casa del Tío Güero. Typical Oaxacan cuisine. A good deal with good food, all made with purified water.

Restaurante María Bonita. Serves traditional Oaxacan dishes, and offers 2-day cooking classes. Free Wi-Fi available.

Restaurante Terranova. Pleasantly situated, with outdoor seating downstairs as well as indoor seating upstairs, this reliable restaurant offers a range of traditional Oaxacan dishes. Excellent service.

La Red Marisquerias. Serves fabulously fresh seafood for lunch fixed in dozens of different styles. Another location is just south of Merced Market.

Barbacoa Obispo Cocina Real. Comfortable outdoor dining room serving authentic Mixtec barbacoa that's at once familiar yet unique in its traditional flavor profile. Order the "paquetes". Awarded a star in the 2025 Michelin Guide, yet the food is affordably priced and served in an everyday humble style, making it an outstanding value for the cash-strapped gourmet.

La Capilla. Excellent place to eat, They have mole and various typical meals worth the trip to Zaachila.

Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante. If you're looking to splurge on a meal that you won't be able to find in other restaurants in Oaxaca, Casa Oaxaca fits the bill. Treat yourself to corn mushroom soup, fresh fish with tomato marmalade and succulent sorbets. The wine list is decent with some excellent Spanish wines and good local options. There is another Casa Oaxaca restaurant, in the same location as Casa Oaxaca Hotel.

Casa Oaxaca Reforma. Traditional Oaxacan cuisine by chef Alejandro Ruiz Olmedo of Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante, but at slightly more affordable prices.

La Biznaga. Dine in a covered courtyard surrounded by art and wireless web surfers. Prices are reasonable for creative Oaxacan cuisine, and the people watching is a bonus.

La Toscana. It is best to take a taxi to this restaurant because of the out of the way location. They serve the best martinis in Oaxaca and delicious seafood with Italian flair.

Los Danzantes Oaxaca. A comfortable and authentic mix of Oaxacan and modern restaurant, food is great. It's a beautifully designed restaurant. Awarded a Michelin star. A bit pricey but definitely worth it for the atmosphere and food quality. Great to have a drink at night as well.

Marco Polo. Famous for its seafood, Marco Polo is a local favorite. Try the ceviche and the beer with chiles.

Levadura de Olla. Astounding restaurant whose menu is a veritable tour through the mountain villages of southern Oaxaca where centuries-old cooking techniques of the Zapotec people and unusual ingredients from a harsh climate combine to make intensely flavorful regional dishes. Although not a vegetarian restaurant, vegetable dishes are the chef specialties. The restaurant was awarded a Michelin star. Reservations strongly suggested.

Drink

Oaxaca is most famous for mezcal and hot chocolate. The state also has a thriving coffee industry.

Chocolate has had special importance here since pre-hispanic times. Aside from being a foodstuff, it was also used as medicine and even money. It is most commonly mixed with hot water, cinnamon, almonds, and sugar into a concoction called chocolate de agua, served in large bowls with a local sweet bread roll.

There are other cocoa-based drinks worth trying: Champurrado is similar to chocolate de agua, but with the addition of corn flour to thicken the drink. It is found on many breakfast menus. Tejate is formed by grinding corn flour, cocoa seeds and mamey seeds for hours until it develops a thick and creamy foam. It is widely available in markets and in restaurants serving regional cuisine. Pozontle is a cocoa and corn based cousin of tejate that's far rarer.

The eastern end of Mina Street (2 blocks south of Zócalo) are several chocolate shops where you can taste samples. Some of these also have cafes in the back where you can drink several types of hot chocolates.

Cafés With a few exceptions, most of the cafes are closed on Sunday.

Café Kioo. Has Wi-Fi and electrical outlets and is open on Sundays.

Café Los Cuiles. Good coffee, free Wi-Fi, friendly staff, good atmosphere. Try the Café Oaxaqueña (slightly sweet, with cinnamon. Yum!

Mezcal is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from agave that is produced across the state of Oaxaca. (Tequila, the most widely-known agave distillate, can be considered a subtype of mezcal.) The mezcal produced here can come from any number of agave varieties (most commonly espadin), which is then cooked in a pit oven to impart a distinctive smoky note.

Casa de Mezcal. A local bar serving several mezcales, bottled beer and other drinks

Mezcal Don Agave. Produces many different types of mezcal on the premises in the traditional way. Tours of the distillery are available. Tastings are available too.

Los Amantes Mezcalería. A quaint but pricey mezcaleria near the Tempo de Santo Domingo featuring high quality mezcal and a guitar player.

La Mezcaloteca. Outstanding mezcaleria offering customized tastings presented by expert mescaleros.

In Situ. Well over a hundred bottles of mezcal to choose from a dizzying array of producers with many varietals, and with options from young, unaged platos to complex dark anejos. The expert mescaleros can explain how the mezcals are made and how they differ from each other in the glass.

Mezcaleria Cuish. Run by a colectivo of rural mezcal producers, Cuish sells their own branded mezcals and operates tasting rooms. Great place to do side-by-side tastings of pure varietals: espadin, as well as tobala, tepeztate, and of course, Cuish.

Bars Oaxaca is not renowned for its nightlife and, with the exception of the Zócalo and its surroundings, the streets can feel quite empty later at night. There are several rooftop bars around the Templo de Santo Domingo offering gorgeous views, particularly at sunset. Other bars and nightclubs are scattered haphazardly around the city center.

Archivo Maguey. A popular bar that borders on a nightclub late at night. Contains a hidden bar and balcony located behind a not-so-secret moving bookcase.

Cantina Salón de La Fama. An extremely local bar with great service and occasionally hilarious artwork. Live, local music, should you be so lucky.

Oaxaca Brewing Company. Brewery serving several varieties of their own beer. Casual feel. Some food available too. Occasional live music.

Sleep

On booking.com you need to pick Oaxaca de Juárez. Some areas near the center are more busy and have more noise, and others may be a bit of a walk from where you want to spend some of your time.

Casa Angel Youth Hostel. Casa Angel is a stylish backpackers hostel in a restored downtown house. It offers inexpensive and stylish accommodations for their guests in 3, 4, and 10 bed dorm rooms. Casa Angel also has a rooftop terrace (BBQs every week), a common area with a TV and DVDs, a full kitchen, free computers and Wi-Fi, lockers, and a delicious free breakfast every morning.

Hostal Central. A highly-rated hostel renowned for its incredible breakfasts and customer service. Offers basic and premium dormitories as well as private rooms. Not a party hostel, but certainly a social hostel.

Hotel Eclipse. Shares a wall with an identical hotel. Shared baths. Not clean at all!.

La Villada Inn Hostel. A family-run property, a well done eco-construction, relaxing environment and a great view of the surrounding mountain ranges with large swimming pool.

Oaxaca Campground. The campground is gated and safe with level campsites, clean restrooms and hot showers. Free WiFi. Full and partial hookups for any size RV. Pets are welcome and petsitting available leaving you free to explore. Within walking distance is a water park complete with Olympic size swimming pool.

Casa Arnel. Run by great family. Lots of parrots in a wonderful garden. Nice terrace overlooking the San Matias church. Breakfast in common area (extra).

Casa de las Bugambilias. Nine-room bed and breakfast that is also home to La Olla Restaurant. Free long distance calls to many destinations including USA, Canada, and Western Europe (except mobile phones). Wi-Fi and guest computer.

Casa de los Ángeles. A small and intimate family-run guest house offering bed and breakfast. Convenient, quiet location, excellent food and warm hospitality.

Casa de Los Frailes Hotel. Air-con suites equipped with cable TV, private toilet and bath. Some of its facilities and services are fitness room, terrace, cafe, wake-up call and Internet access.

Casa de Mis Recuerdos. A small bed and breakfast with a lovely courtyard and delicious meals. Many rooms are on the street so bring earplugs.

Hotel Aitana. In an 18th-century building with traditional fittings.

Hotel Abu. All rooms equipped with Wi-Fi, double/king bed, and strongbox. Restaurant/cafe, business center, meeting room, laundry, and dry cleaning service.

Hostal los Girasoles. Just like renting a room with an Oaxaqueño family. Mom, dad, grandpa & son run this small hostel. Private rooms (with private bath) & dorms. Shower is common. An absolute steal considering you are treated like a family member

La Noria Centro Histórico Hotel Boutique. Offers 24 air-conditioned rooms, all of which have a cable television, private toilet and bath, and coffee/tea maker. Some of its amenities include Wi-Fi in reception area, guided tours and car rental, and Asuncion Restaurante (serves local dishes, open 07:00-23:00).

Hotel Las Mariposas. Family-owned hotel, B&B and studio apartments. Rooms off the back courtyard are extremely quiet, unusual in Oaxaca. Includes continental breakfast with excellent coffee.

Hacienda La Noria. Has an onsite restaurant and outdoor pool, free Wi-Fi in public areas.

Parador San Agustin Hotel. Luxury hotel with an onsite restaurant and free parking.

City Centro Oaxaca. Breakfast available at on-site cafe. Room service. Small roof-top swimming pool. Bar. Gym. Business center. Outdoor courtyard with comfortable seating. Choice of pillows. Quiet.

Hacienda Los Laureles. A historic luxury hotel in a quiet residential area with 23 rooms and suites, traditional Mexican architecture, a spa and restaurant. It offers air conditioned rooms, all of which have a satellite TV, a luxury bathroom with mirror and hair dryer, and two telephones and a data port. Petit Spa, a swimming pool with Jacuzzi, and a business center with Wi-Fi.

Hostal CasAntica. A former 16th-century convent.

Hotel con Corazón. Offers a tranquil ambience with rooms overlooking a leafy courtyard with pool and restaurant. What's best is that part of the hotel's proceeds go to fund local children's education and other social programs.

Hotel de la Parra. A colonial residence converted to a hotel which offers pueblo-style accommodations and a pool, as well as an onsite restaurant. Pets accepted, free Wi-Fi in public areas.

Los Pilares Hostal. Swimming pool, free Wi-Fi, room service, and tour desk.

Quinta Real. In former convent around 5 gracious courtyards. It can feel a bit corporate, with wedding parties and other functions, and mariachis strumming relentlessly over your breakfast eggs. But simply lovely, and within a short stroll of all city attractions.

Suites Bello Xochimilco. Five three-bedroom suites and one two-bedroom suite. Free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel, pets accepted.