Mostar.
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Overview

Mostar is a city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Much of the city has been rebuilt and visitors might be surprised to see that this formerly war-torn city is a lively and beautiful destination once again, particularly the area within and around the old town. However, many visible signs of Mostar's troubled history in the 1990s remain.

Understand

Mostar used to be one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country: today, it suffers from an ethnic geographical division. The city was the most heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the breakup of Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, air strikes destroyed many important buildings and structures, including the city's iconic Old Bridge (Stari Most), which was a . Mostar was most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the Neretva River in what is considered the historic centre of the city. Through combined efforts with the international community, rebuilding of the Old Bridge was completed in 2004, almost 11 years after its destruction, using some of its original stones recovered from the Neretva River.

mostar.ba (site in various languages, including English)

Get in

From Sarajevo There are many buses (first at 06:00, last at 19:55 - approx. 1 per hour) from Sarajevo to Mostar. There are also many buses from Mostar to Sarajevo (first at 06:00, last at 18:15 - approx. 1 per hour).

Other destinations Bus timetables are online, but not all connections are listed.

The stop in Mostar for the bus from Podgorica, which continues to Banja Luka, is several kilometres from the city centre on an expressway.

By train There are twice daily trains from Sarajevo. This train has no A/C and is often oversold, so if you are looking for comfort, take the bus. An international train from Ploče, Croatia, runs three times per week on weekends during the summer.

By car Mostar is easily reachable from Western Europe via Croatia. From, Zagreb take the A1 (green signs for Karlovac, Split and Dubrovnik). There is a border crossing Nova Sela - Bijača, and the motorway continues in Herzegovina until the end at Međugorje. Then just follow the signs to Mostar on the remaining 30 or so kilometres of two-lane road. There are plans build a motorway all the way to Mostar, but this might take several more years.

From Sarajevo it's a two-hour scenic drive through the Neretva river valley. This route is also planned to be upgraded to a motorway.

By bicycle The Ćiro Trail is a 157-km cycling route from Dubrovnik. It's a rail trail following the tracks of a decommissioned Austro-Hungarian narrow gauge railway, and crosses several 19th-century tunnels and bridges.

See

The Old Bridge. The original bridge built by the Turks in 1566 was destroyed in 1993, but rebuilt in 2004. The bridge is the highlight of Mostar and is a . The main site in Mostar, if not Bosnia. The bridge is 21 m high and you will frequently see members of the Mostar Diving Club dive off the bridge. It is customary to give the divers a few marks after they make the jump.

Old Bridge Museum. Includes exhibits on the history of the bridge, a panoramic view from the top, and entrance into the excavations below, along with a video detailing the reconstruction of the bridge. It opened in 2006, commemorating the second anniversary of the bridge's reconstruction.

Muslibegovića House. Constructed 300 years ago, it is considered the most beautiful Ottoman period house in the Balkans. The house comprises separate quarters for women (women’s courtyard – haremluk) and men (men’s courtyard – selamluk). Unlike earlier architectural styles, this is a four-storey house built around the centre. Double-arched entrance with the central pillar reveals Mediterranean influence. The house is a preserved authentic monumental structure along with items and documents providing an insight into the life of a wealthy bey family from the time. In addition to museum exhibition, visitors are invited to take traditional beverages and biscuits, or spend a night.

Museum of Herzegovina. Has a small collection of photographs from various phases of Mostar history, including a small exhibit on a native son who was Prime Minister of Yugoslavia for 6 years. Also shows an excellent video on the recent history of the Old Bridge.

Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque. Small but pretty Ottoman mosque built in 1618 that was destroyed during the war but rebuilt with Turkish financial support. Climb the minaret for spectacular views over the town. Ascending the minaret is not recommended to those with claustrophobia, but the 192 step climb rewards with a superlative view of the Old Bridge.

Karađoz Bey Mosque. Ottoman mosque built in 1557; central mosque of Mostar.

Cemetery. A park turned into a cemetery in 1993 when the dead needed a place to be buried and other cemeteries were inaccessible due to the war.

Ottoman house. An Ottoman house, where you only can see the few rooms in upstairs.

Do

Watch locals dive off the Old Bridge. Members of the Mostar Diving Club will dive off the bridge into the emerald green waters, but first they will try to collect some money from tourists. Do not attempt this yourself. The waters of river are at a constant 12°C, and going suddenly from 30°C to 12°C can cause a heart attack among even the fittest. The young local men diving would hose themselves down first in order to lower their body temperature before diving. The best place to watch this is below Old Bridge on shore of Neretva river.

Walk Along the Former Front-line. Here, in 1993 the city was divided between Croats on the west and Bosniaks on the eastern side. It is a surreal and sobering experience to see the bombed-out buildings which still stand in this area only 5 m from the division.

Zvonik mira. Visible wide around the city. Take the elevator up the bell tower next to Sveti Petar i Pavao.

Football: HŠK Zrinjski Mostar play soccer in Premier League BH, the top tier. Their Stadion pod Bijelim Brijegom is under expansion from 9000 to 13,000 capacity. FK Velež Mostar also play in Premier League, at Stadion Rođeni, capacity 7000. Drink Bosnian coffee. Don't let anyone tell you that Bosnian coffee is the same as Turkish coffee. Instead, let the good people of Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange not far from the bridge) educate you about this distinct way of preparing coffee. They are the only roasters in town and they are passionate about preserving this tradition. The café will serve your coffee in a traditional coffee set, plus a Turkish delight to sweeten your drink, all for 2 KM. Before you drink your coffee, the staff will explain to you how it is prepared and how best to enjoy it. Park Fortica With multiple ziplines and a via ferrata. Also offers adventurous activities in the surrounding area.

Buy

Numerous banks have their affiliates and ATMs across the city. Most restaurants in the Old Town will accept cards and there is an ATM next to tourist company across Restaurant Kulluk and Europa.

Head over to Old Bazaar Kujundžiluk for handicrafts, carpets and jewelry.

Eat

National Restaurant Ćevabdžinica Tima - Irma.

Aščinica "Saray". A great place to have cheap and good dishes. Prices range from 5 KM to 12 KM for a big meal.

Hindin Han. Highly recommended, although service is slow.

Kulluk. Great view overlooking the Stari Most.

Labirint. Great view overlooking the Stari Most. Part of Hotel Bristol.

Nacionalni Restoran M&M. Decent mixed grill.

Drink

Plenty of bars and cafés in the Old Town.

OKC Abrašević. Bar with alternative concerts and other art events, founded on the former front line of the last civil war. There is a small book-exchange on the second storey.

Ali Baba's Cave. This bar has drinks and hookah; the ambiance is great as the lounge was built directly in a cavern. You won't be able to miss it while walking around the bazaar in Mostar's Old Town, as there is loud music emanating from the entrance.

Black Dog Pub. Fantastic pub with a great atmosphere and lots of locals, tucked away beside the Radobolja river. Charming building with a terrace and the odd live band playing.

Studio Lounge. An open-air bar on top of a high building with jazzy/world music and a great view over the town. Sometimes live bands; keep your eyes open for posters when walking in the Old town.

Sleep

GuestHouse Taso. Free Wi-Fi, tours around Mostar. Free pick up service 24 hr.

Hostel Golden Bridge. Small hostel with a family atmosphere, staffed by the outrageous Stephan, kitchen, parking, Wifi. Thoroughly recommended.

Hostel Majda's Rooms. This is the first hostel in Mostar. The owner, Majda, is very friendly and will bend over backwards to accommodate you, suggest restaurants, bars, sights and day trips. Free internet, TV, kitchen, linen. Homecooked breakfast and coffee for free every morning. A city tour is offered.

Hostel Miturno. Cool clean hostel in the Old town. Free Wi-Fi, staff speaks very good English.

Hostel Nina. Clean hostel in the Old town. Free internet, staff speak very good English. Free pick up from the bus/train station can be arranged. In their own bar on the Old bridge you can taste local drinks for local prices; first round is always on the house if you are a guest of the hostel.

Hostel Bojo, bed & breakfast. In the pedestrian zone of Mostar centre, about 500 m from the Old Town, Hostel Bojo offers air-conditioned rooms with lockers for each bed, free Wi-Fi and free breakfast. Guests can use the shared garden's seating area with free barbecue facilities. Has a common room with cable TV, and guests are welcome to use a shared fully equipped kitchen with dining area. A shared bathroom with shower and hairdryers are available.

Hotel Bevanda. Mostar's only luxurious four-star hotel. It's in a quiet area with beautiful nature and a river running under hotel, yet it's not more than 15 minutes walk from the historical centre of the city. The hotel has a capacity of 28 rooms and two luxurious apartments. All rooms have access to a mini bar, Pay TV, internet adapter and balcony. There are both rooms for smokers and non-smokers. Here you will find a big restaurant, café, and a huge terrace outside lying on the river Radobolja. Also a hotel garage as well as outside parking are available.

Hotel Bristol. 45 rooms, a restaurant, and two conference rooms. The restaurant has a capacity of 150 seats inside and outside. The Musala square across Neretva and Korzo Street in front of the hotel are two of the most frequented places in the city, which gives this hotel something extra.

Biba. Three furnished two bedroom apartments with terraces on Neretva River directly over looking the Mostar Old Bridge.

Motel Deny Mostar. 10 rooms with air-con, cable TV, bathroom with shower, balcony with a view on the Old town and Old bridge, restaurant closed type, parking and internet wireless connection which is free of charge for guests.

Pansion Anja Mostar. Rooms are quiet and spacious, equipped with TV and balcony. Bathroom spotless, owner Marijana friendly and with good English.

Shangri-La Bed and Breakfast. All rooms with TV, internet, air-con, bath. Parking provided.

Villa Sann. The Old Bridge is just 10 minutes by walking. Private parking for guests at a fee.

Villa Sara. Nice location, decent beds. Rooms on the second floor have the quickest access to the terrace with a view of the city and the hills.

Hotel Pellegrino. More of an apartment complex than a hotel. Excellent breakfast.