Mawlamyine.
Your next chapter?

Overview

Mawlamyine (also spelled also spelled Mawlamyaing) or Moulmein (Burmese မော်လမြိုင်မြို့) is the capital of Mon State in Southeastern Myanmar.

Understand

Mawlamyine is the fourth biggest city in Myanmar (population about 326,000) and famous for its nearby sights and attractions, especially the largest reclining Buddha in Myanmar 18 km south and the golden rock 20 km north of the city. The first stop for many coming from Thailand, and it is a good starting point for the rest of Myanmar.

Get in

Coming in from Yangon, Naypyidaw, Mandalay or Bagan with any of the following transports, don't miss out on Bago and/or the Golden Rock in Kyaiktiyo. An overnight stop resting with thousands of other pilgrims on top of the mountain is a great opportunity, but bring ear plugs and a warm sleeping bag. Alternatively, just stay in a guesthouse in Kinpun, the "base camp".

By bus is on Maung Rd which bypass the city to the east. Most buses will stop (and start from) here, such as:

Hpa-An – From the clock tower the bus takes 2 hr for 1,000 kyat. Myawaddy – The bus is about 5,000 kyat and takes 3-5 hr. Yangon – From Aung Mingular Bus Station northwest of Yangon several buses a day leave between 07:30 and 21:00, taking about 5½-7 hr, for about 6,000-8,000 kyat. Naypyidaw – A Scania bus leaves from the Bawgathiri Highway Station east of Naypyidaw at 19:00 and arrives at 05:00 for about 11,000 kyat. Mandalay – A quite luxurious (Swedish) overnight bus (company: Shwe Mandalar) leaves at 18:00 from the Highway Bus Station south of Mandalay. It includes a towel, pillow, blanket toothbrushes and water, and arrives in Mawlamyine at 05:00, with at least two stops on the way. It does most of its way on the new highway between Mandalay and Yangon. Up to 15,000 kyat.

By pick-up/shared taxi Most non-bus transportation into Mawlamyine coming from the northeastern main road will drop off their passengers at from where also most traffic travels further south.

The trip from Myawaddy is about 12,000 kyat (shared taxi) and a very bumpy ride, taking somewhere between 3-5 h. A big part of the distance is gravel road. You can pay in Thai ฿ (but there are plenty of currency exchange people and ATMs close to the border control).

Shared taxis will drop you off at your lodging.

By train The has up to three (bumpy) trains a day coming in from Yangon, Bago and Kyaikto, arriving at 04:00, 06:00 and 16:30. and starting in Yangon and Bago about 9 h or 7 h earlier, respectively. Tickets go on sale 3 days before departure at the downtown ticket office.

Nevertheless, they provide a scenic trip up/down the river. Elegant Myanmar sell tickets on their 08:30 sailing from their office next to Ykko, south of the night market. Alternatively ask at your own guest house, or at Breeze Inn Guesthouse who may still operate a boat. Journey times are listed as 4 hours. In the dry season it could be as little as 2 hours, or it could take 5 hours including a mandatory stop at a small village to visit a monastery + temple (Feb 2019).

Get around

On foot Walking around can be an option in the centre, but Mawlamyine stretches over 5.5 km along the river.

By motorbike Motorbike-taxis, trishaws, pick-ups are available all over town, especially at the central market.

Do not pay more than 700 kyat for the transport from the bus station, train station or the main junction to the city centre (motorbike/trishaw). Tuk-tuk drivers might ask up to 3,000 kyat for the two mile ride, which is too much.

By tour You can also take a tour with a tuktuk around the area for 25.000 Kyat (3-4 hr)—but half of that is probably more reasonable. You can tell the driver which places you want to visit.

See

Many of Mawlamyine's famous sights are outside of the city, but visiting all sights in the city (including the markets and restaurants) can take a day.

Kyaik Tan Lan Pagoda. Up on the hill and famous for its nice views and a great sunset point is this pagoda on the hill in the north(east)ern part of the city.

Mahamuni Paya. Pagoda which contains a century-old replica of the Buddha in Mahamuni Paya in Mandalay (famous for the early morning face washing). Here you can get a nicer view of the Buddha. Women are allowed to get closer and there are fewer tourists compared to Mandalay but without the washing ceremony. However, the gold cover of the Buddha is not nearly as thick as in Mandalay.

Ogre Island. An island across the river from Mawlamyine, known for cottage industries such as weaving, chalkboards, pipes, hats and rubber bands. A guide is necessary as the island is spread out over an area the size of Singapore. You can arrange a tour from Breeze Inn Guesthouse (18,000 kyat per person) or simply arrive on shore and ask around for an English speaking moto driver. High tide in the mornings means disembarking into watery mud, so it is best to wear sandals.

Gaung Say Kyun / Shampoo Island with the Sandawshin Pagoda. Small island with its own pagoda and nice river view.

Thanlwin Bridge (Mawlamyine). This 2-mile long bridge was built in 2005 and is the second longest in Myanmar.

Churches: St Patrick's (1829); St Matthew's (1887), abandoned & locked; First Baptist (1827); Holy Family (1954)

Nwa-La-Boh Pagoda. The main attraction of this pagoda is a golden rock formation, similar to Kyaiktiyo, but on a smaller scale. However, due its shape and balance (3 stones on top of each other) this golden rock is equally impressive. If you go in low season and on a work day, there is a fair chance that you will be the only person there.To go there you can get pick-ups from the roundabout south of the bridge. Locals pay about 500 kyat one-way, but tourist may be charged 1,000 kyat. Taxis offer you the same trip for 8,000 kyat return, but you can get them down to 5,000 kyat.Near Kyaun Ka Village exactly 19.7 km north from the roundabout take the to the right up and by the pagoda, 6.7 km away not accounting for the elevation. You hike up and down, at least 1.5-2.5 hr each way; bring enough water, good shoes and sunblock as the heat and humidity are high. Alternatively or you can try to get a work truck (2,000 kyat per person return) but higher in the low season if they available at all. Going back from the main road is easy, just hail for a pick-up or any car that passes by.

South The best way to explore the surrounding and especially southern area and sights is by scooter or motorbike. In the order of distance from Mawlamyine are these destinations:

Shwe Nat Taung Pagoda. On top of a hill offering picturesque views ideal for pictures.

Pa-Auk Tawya Monastery. An enormous, tranquil meditation centre with friendly people. Arrive by 10:00 to walk to the eating hall for an 11:00 meal with hundreds of monks and a few foreigners studying meditation.

Kyauk Ta Lone. This hill offers a great view of the surrounding area and even a sneak peek of the famous Buddha. It is great for sunsets. There are two tops, only one is allowed for women. There is an old, open shed on top where you can even stay overnight, although a mosquito net, mattress and sleeping bag are recommended. It takes about 20-30 min to climb.

The world's largest reclining Buddha. Besides the golden rock in Kyaiktiyo this is probably the most famous sight in the Mon State. Whilst no longer the largest in the world, it is still the largest reclining Buddha in Myanmar. Dozens of monk statues escort the track from the main road towards the reclining Buddha. Arriving at the sight the sheer size of the Buddha (more than 100 m) is quite impressive. Opposite lies another but older one. Due to its size you will have to walk around to find a good spot for taking pictures.

A one-way pick-up to the Buddha should be around 500 kyat, at least for locals. A taxi is about 4,000 kyat one way or 7,000 kyat return.

Kan Gyi Lake and Pagoda. Rumour is, nobody knows how deep is this lake. Don't feel tempted to find out. Women are not allowed to swim: otherwise, it is believed, something terrible will happen. The lake can be easily circumnavigated by foot.

Do

Rent a scooter or motorbike and explore the surrounding area, especially south. Take a boat up or down the river.

Buy

The and the are in the north part of the city, near the river.

Eat

Night market & food stalls. This place offers a great opportunity to mix with the locals. You can choose from several food stalls, some of which have English menus. However, it is best to watch and choose from the dishes they prepare. Sometimes they will not even be on the menu. It offers barbecue (100-200 kyat per piece), cheap seafood, vegetarian, rice and soup dishes.

Yunnan / Yuu Nan Pan Tay Restaurant. Thai food. Friendly and clean.

YKKO Restaurant. Chinese and Thai dishes in a professional setup.

Shwe Nandaw. Nice local teashop with terrace, fresh bakery, including vegan/vegetarian options, Chinese specialities (fried & steamed), spicy milk tea, friendly shop owner.

Daw Yi. Local restaurant that serves a wide variety of Mon curries. Inclusive tea, soup and salad.

Drink

Faluda, a drink made of ice cream, jelly, syrup, basil seeds and pudding. Found at the night marked or Deli France Bakery.

Strand View Restaurant. Outdoor garden in a cosy surrounding.

Mya Nan Thida. Milk shakes, ice cream, faluda and kulfi.

Sleep

There are plenty of places to rest in Mawlamyine.

Aye Chan Mya Guest House. Brand new guesthouse, a little far from the centre but is good value.

Aurora Guesthouse. Wi-Fi. No breakfast. Same prices as Breeze Inn Guesthouse but much nicer rooms. Owner seems grumpy at first, but is sweet and helpful if you take the time to talk to him. If you're on your own and only double rooms are available he will most likely charge you as if you stayed in a single room.

Breeze Inn Guesthouse. Well-known guesthouse with friendly staff. Mr Anthony is an old man and full of stories including useful advice, and he likes to talk. The place is run down and a little unkempt. Rooms are smelly even if you have a window. Sleep in short beds with rock hard, old and lain through mattresses (really no elasticity left) in rooms with thin walls. Breakfast is included (coffee or tea, toast, butter and jam, boiled egg, banana) and served at the terrace with river view. WiFi in the common.

Cinderella Hotel. Has a couple of dorm rooms alongside the large guest rooms. The restaurant serves delicious meals. The staff are very accommodating and helpful. Receive very good online ratings. If you cannot afford to stay you can still enjoy a delicious breakfast for 3,500 kyat. They also have a bunkbed room for backpackers.

Hotel Queen Jamadevi. Opened in 2016 in a quiet area. All rooms feature a private bathroom with hot water, satellite TV, fridge/minibar, kettle, hardwood floors. Free Asian buffet breakfast focussing on Mon state specialities. On-site dining optional. Garden. Free Wifi. Free shuttle service to/from the airport. Friendly family run business. Bicycles & motorbikes rental.

Mawlamyine Strand Hotel. 24 rooms including AC and bathroom.

Sandalwood Hotel. Drying rack and umbrella can be borrowed. Only two standard rooms are available, which are hard to get, so call ahead.

Pinlon Pann Motel. Very nice and quiet, very fast Wi-Fi and 24-hr ATM. Very helpful staff. Transportation is not run by Motel. Taxi is very expensive but tuk tuk is recommended. Tidy rooms with nice breakfast and Sue's Kitchen.