Makarska.
Your next chapter?

Overview

Makarska is the main city and resort of the Makarska Riviera in Split-Dalmatia, between Split and Dubrovnik on the Adriatic coast of Croatia. It's backed by the rugged Biokovo mountains, a national park, and looks out across a channel to Brač island. It's a popular destination for package tours, with plenty of accommodation, eating places and beach activities.

Understand

The Makarska Riviera is a 66-km coastal strip of small towns, villages and beaches along coastal Highway 8 from Brela on the northwest end, through Baška Voda, Bratuš, Krvavica and Makarska itself, continuing southeast through Tučepi, Podgora, Igrane, Mala Duba, Drvenik, Zaostrog, Podaca, Brist and to end in the southeast at Gradac. These all have some accommodation but are much smaller and with fewer permanent inhabitants.

Makarska town (with a population of 13,834 in 2011) has most of its facilities along the traffic-free beach strip Šetalište Dr Franje Tuđmana. Hotels may give their address as Ul Kralja Petra Krešimira IV but this is just a service road one block back where coaches and laundry trucks unload; a further block back is the through-street and bus station. The strip runs to the peninsula of Sveti Petar where it joins the Old Town clustered around the harbour.

Get in

By plane The nearest airport is Split , 85 km north (and 25 km beyond the city of Split). In summer this has frequent package flights from north Europe and most visitors to the Makarska Riviera arrive this way. To the south is Dubrovnik with even more seasonal flights. It's 160 km south via the Pelješac Bridge, opened in 2022. You could also follow the old highway via Neum in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but rental firms charge extra for taking the car out of Croatia, and apply that charge to every day of the hire even though you only make the ten minute transit there and back.

They run along the coastal Highway 8 via Baška Voda, Bratuš, Brela, Marušići and Omiš. A few services then hairpin up the side of the river gorge to pass through Tugare but most stay on the coast to reach Split via Stobreč. There are four buses a day from Dubrovnik (3-4 hours via Neum) which continue north to Split then variously to Šibenik, Zadar and Zagreb. Makarska is central on Ul. Ante Starčevića at the junction with Ul. Stjepana Radića. There's a ticket office and a couple of little cafes and kiosks, and a shopping centre adjacent.

By boat The Jadrolinija ferry sails between and Sumartin on Brač island, taking an hour; 4 or 5 sailings a day so a day-trip is simple. Public transport from Sumartin is very limited so either take your own transport or have it teed up for your arrival. The ferry has limited capacity and is not a ro-ro but a ro-three-point-turno.

Get around

Walk, but the beach strip is 4 km long, with electric scooters weaving past. With children you might take the road train that toot-toots along the strip every 20-30 min.

Bus: Croatia Bus runs south from Makarska every 30-60 min through Tučepi to Podgora, taking 30 min. To go further down the Riviera (e.g. to Igrane, Drvenik and Gradac) you have to take the infrequent buses for Dubrovnik and/or Metković, see "Get in".

For the Riviera villages north of Makarska, use the Promet bus for Split as above.

Taxi: there's no single large taxi company, but many small operators with a couple of cars apiece.

See

The Old Town is small but well-preserved, stretching back from the harbour through alleys and piazzas, especially pleasant at dusk. The main church of Sv Marka (Co-Cathedral of St Mark) has a baroque interior. Municipal Museum on the quayside has a small but interesting display. It's open M-F 07:00-15:00, Sa 09:00-12:00; . Malacological Museum is the grand name for this collection of seashells, usually open 10:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00. Worth looking in for the venue, an old Franciscan monastery south end of the centre. (St Peter) is a small island that (like many other islets along the Dalmatia coast) has become joined to the mainland by infill, so it's now an anvil-shaped peninsula separating the harbour from the main beach. It's a bosky park with a stubby lighthouse at its west end and an old church. The south shore is popular with nudists so you might also see some stubby pale zucchini. is the coastal ridge stretching south from the harbour all the way to Tucepi. There are quiet paths (a bit rough for cycling), woodland, and little beaches. Wild camping is not recommended, as there are bugs and spiky vegetation. or "Lourdes Makarska" is a woodland grotto with shrine. It's 2 km north of town off Highway 8, helpfully signposted "No entry except Driving School vehicles" in Croat. The mountains rearing up behind Makarska comprise Biokovo Nature Park, stretching 36 km along the coast and 9 km inland. It's a huge landscape of limestone karst crags, cliffs and ravines but the most accessible part is the village of . This has an old church and the scrappy remains of a castle built into the cliffs, but its main attraction is the Botanical Garden, a protected habitat rather than a formally-laid out garden. Get further into the park via the lane that begins near on Highway 512. The park toll booth is here: for one day, for 3 days or for 7 days. The lane zigzags up to Vrata, whence the south fork descends eventually to Igrane, while the north fork threads its way up Vlaška Ravine to the park's highest point of Sveti Jure (St George) at 1762 m. You're going to need a car with a stout first and second gear, or come on a tour; and make sure it's a clear day, there's no point when it's socked in by cloud. There's accommodation and a few cafes within the park.

Do

Water activities such as parasailing, jet skiing and motor boat hire: lots of operators along the beach strip. Wibit is a water obstacle course on inflatable rafts. The beach is just a narrow strip of shingle; no tides as this is part of the Med. Scuba dive with More. They go out daily at 09:00 for two-tank dives, returning 13:00-ish. PADI courses available.

The other local diving operation is Butterfly based in Tucepi 5 km south. Hiking: the mountains behind town have several hiking trails, scenic and seldom crowded. Don't leave the trails as pitfalls abound. The snakes are mostly innocuous but don't mess with the horned / sand viper (Vipera ammodytes). Rock-climbing: lots of cliffs just behind town, varying grades of difficulty. Rafting and kayaking along Cetina River, a 30-min drive from Makarska. It's mostly calm, but there are a few fast stretches and one hazardous section. Several tour agencies in town offer guided trips down the river. They'll point out the cave where Tito's Partisans hid from the Nazis during World War II.

Events Battle of Makarska or Mucules in 887 AD was when the local pirates of Neretva bested the Venetians, who thereafter had to pay protection money for their ships to pass. It's enthusiastically re-enacted each year on 18 Sep, starting at dusk around 19:30 on the harbour pier. Cutlasses, brass bands, camp sailorettes doing pop routines, wizz-bangs and flares, war-canoes mobbing a diesel-powered schooner, tricorn hats from a Captain Morgan advert, and wide-screen display, all contribute to the authenticity and glorious victory. Autumn Jazz Festival is held late Sep - mid-Oct.

Buy

Money: Many places don't take credit cards. Plus, lots of ATMs dotted around, but these will incur charges from your bank. Supermarkets: Lidl is south edge of the centre along Ul. Europske zajednice (open daily 08:00-21:00). Two other local chains are Tommy Maxmarket and Studentica. There's an outdoor market for souvenirs, beach gear and snacks on the spit of land west end of the harbour. There's also a kids' play park here.

Eat

There are many restaurants along the beach and in the main square area, but often mediocre and tourist-trappy. Recommended are:

Jež. Mediterranean restaurant, good for seafood and meat dishes.

Kalelarga. Fresh seafood, slow service so make a night of it. "You never know what you'll be eating" said one reviewer, who enjoyed the donkey in red wine.

Restoran Herc. Good food and service.

Restauran Berlin is a good choice on the beach strip near Hotel Park.

Riva. Good sea-food restaurant. Busy people, they also run Café Bar Nautica, Pizzeria Centrum, a couple of villas, and a motor launch.

Susvid. Good seafood, steak and Med cuisine, cash only. They also own Peskera restaurant.

Jeny. Good restaurant especially the 5-7 course tasting menus - but expensive, and they only take cash.

Konoba Veza. Good traditional restaurant up the hill above Tucepi.

Drink

There are bars and cafes along the beach strip, while the dance clubs are around the harbour.

Deep. Bar and dance club in a seaside grotto.

Sleep

Hostel Makarska Subtub. First backpackers' hostel in Makarska. It is in a safe, quiet neighborhood. Peaceful, clean hostel with friendly atmosphere. It is run by a traveller who can give you all the info you need about Croatia. With dorms and en suite private rooms.

Villa Buljubasic. Ten suites, all equipped with air conditioning, TV/satellite, WiFi, bathroom, fridge, balcony and grill area, 350 m from beach, with parking.

Vila Ventus. 2 rooms with use of kitchen, 2 apartments with own kitchen, 2 double rooms, all with A/C, 5 min walk from the beach.

Villa Jarak. Open Apr-Nov, clean spacious apartments and rooms with balconies close to the beach; all rooms with AC, bathroom, satellite TV, free WiFi, and kitchen.

Hotel Dalmacija Sunny. Large 4-star on beach, some facilities need updating but generally to a good standard. Often used by package tours.

Hotel Park. Large central 4-star often used by package tour companies. Clean & comfy, friendly service; go B&B as the evening restaurant is nothing special.