Luang Namtha.
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Overview

Luang Namtha (ຫຼວງນໍ້າທາ, ຫລວງນໍ້າທາ Louangnamtha, Luang Nam Tha) is the largest city in Luang Nam Tha Province, Northern Laos. It lies on the banks of the Nam Tha River, and the meaning of the name is "The area (luang) around the Tha River (nam Tha)".

Understand

Best known as a stopover point on the backpacker trail from China to Laos, and as an alternative to the long and cramped boat journey between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha has become increasingly popular as a starting point for hill tribe treks, especially those into the Luang Namtha National Protected Area (NPA).

While short on jaw-dropping sights, it's a compact and fairly pleasant little town, albeit one divided in two parts: the "old" or original town near the airport (bombed out by the US in the 1970s), and the "new" or replacement town to the north where the trekking companies, banks, government offices and most guesthouses can be found. The two are about 6 km apart. The "old" town, now considered as a village within the district, sits astride Hwy 3, the modern route from China to Thailand. The "new" and de facto town is on Hwy 17A, which serves to connect Muang Sing, 7 km away from the Hwy 3 and the bus station.

Get in

Shared tuk-tuks wait outside for arriving flights and will take you to anywhere in town for 10,000 (more often, 20,000) kip.

By train A high speed standard gauge train runs each morning from Vientiane via Phonhong, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Muang Xay, taking 3 hours to Luang Namtha and continuing to Boten on the border with China, returning south shortly after midday. Because of Covid, as of Dec 2021 no trains cross the border: the nearby road crossing remains open but there are onerous restrictions on travellers, especially non-citizens. The high speed line continues north to Kunming but the Chinese timetable has not been published. A later train plies between Vientiane and Luang Prabang but doesn't go further north.

By bus The bus station for destinations inside the province is on the main road west of the main guesthouse strip. The old bus station across from the market has now been demolished to make way for a luxury hotel, and the main bus station for destinations further afield is now an inconvenient 10 km out of town.

Tickets can be bought from 07:30, and the journey takes only four hours due to improved road conditions, and you can therefore make it into Thailand on the same day. If you want to be assured of a seat, tickets can be bought in town the day before at the travel agent across from Green Discovery Treks for 75,000 kip including tuk-tuk to the bus station. Like all bus travel in Laos, tickets bought at the bus station always have priority as for seating. The tuk-tuk leaves the travel agent at 08:00. Alternatively, you can hire a minibus and ride comfortably Luang Namtha in 3–4 hours for 120,000 kip/person.

The bus station booking office (at the new bus station) sells tickets in the afternoon for the following day. In Laos, it is wise to pre-purchase tickets to be more sure of a seat.

The roads from Luang Namtha to Luang Prabang are in poor to fair shape with numerous potholes along the way. The bus stops at the Oudomxay bus station for lunch. Most bus drivers stop every couple of hours to check brakes, etc. At these times passengers can find a bush for bladder relief. The journey is not for the faint-hearted during the rainy season with the bus squeezing and weaving across roads collapsed due to the landslides. In parts, the scenery is fantastic. Like all buses in Laos, the earlier you arrive, the better choice of seat (try for at least 1 hour before). The alternative is sitting on a plastic stool in the aisle for hours on end, or not being let on. While the Lao accept a bag on a seat as taken, the Chinese do not!

Sometimes they board Luang Prabang passengers on the bus leaving for Vientiane which leaves at 08:30, so it's better to go early to the bus station to see which one will it be.

Sleeper buses from Hanoi take 26 hrs, costing VND 1,550,000.

Border crossing requires carrying your baggage into Chinese Customs Hall for scanning. The same bus awaits on the other side of the hall. After ~100 m further driving there is the Lao Visa on Arrival window. Arrival around 17:40 in downtown Luang Namtha. There are 2 BCEL ATMS and 1 LDB ATM in Luang Namtha.

The first bus leaves Mengla north bus station at 09:00 and there is another one at 14:30 (Jun 2011). The trip takes 4–5 hours, depending mostly on the length of the border crossing.

If going to China, you must arrange your visa in advance (nearest embassy/consulate is in Vientiane or Chiang Mai; as of 2015, there is also a Chinese consulate in Luang Namtha).

(In Chinese, especially at the bus station, Luang Namtha may be called "Nan Ta".)

By boat It was possible to take a boat along the river, all the way from Huay Xai, but there is no scheduled service any more. The trip takes two days and requires overnighting in a village along the day (included, but take some backup food if the village dinner is not to your standard).

In the dry season after Nov, the northern parts of the river (towards Luang Namtha) may not be navigable and dams (2015) are being built on the way to Nalae, making this option unavailable in the future.

Get around

Luang Namtha town refers since 2015 to the new town and can be easily covered on foot, but you'll want to hop on a tuk-tuk (10,000 kip) for going to the airport, the bus station, or the pier at the Boat Landing guest house.

You can get a good map of the city at KNT Internet for 3,000 kip and some guesthouses will have a copy of it for free for guests.

You can rent really good mountain bikes at a shop along the main road for 15,000 kip per day or 3,000 kip per hour.

With a motorbike, you can travel around to visit the many villages around and in Luang Namtha and also see the scenic countryside (e.g., closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka, or Muang Sing).

Do

Trekking There are several companies offering trekking to the hill tribes in the area as well as nearby Nam Ha Protected Area. At least half a dozen trek agencies are along the main road within a block of the night market. They all offer roughly the same treks: varying numbers of days, visits to different villages, waterfalls, jungle, kayaking, biking, etc.

Check where the money goes, whether it is being distributed equitably to local guides, villages, etc. The other differentiating factor seems to be equipment. Some have newer equipment in better shape. For example, some offer sleeping pads in addition to sleeping bags, whereas others just have old sleeping bags that have seen better days.

Some advertised prices are inflated twice.

The mountainous jungle scenery in the area is a major attraction. If you are seeking to trek through this type of vegetation, make plain your preference as many treks take hikers generally through the rural landscapes of farmland and rice paddy.

Green Discovery. They also offer kayaking and other activities.

Luang Namtha Tourism Department. Other activities offered include kayaking.

The Hiker. The Hiker is a community-based eco-tours travel agency offering premium level adventure tours including trekking, Kayaking, Mountain biking, cultural immersion, in Luang Namtha, Laos.

Discoveringlaos. Discovering Laos is a family-held eco-tour operator in Luang Namtha, in the north of Laos, Discovering Laos is owned and managed by Vanxai. The owner has been a guide in the Nam Ha National Park for several years and a trekking coordinator for a major eco-tourism agency in Laos. He opened Namtha River Experience in 2009.

Other You can also take a tuk-tuk or bicycle and just go independently to some of the villages which are next to the roads and not in the jungle. A mountain-bike rental from a good shop will provide you with a not-to-scale map over villages and a nice waterfall. The surroundings are really pretty to cycle about in.

The quality of bicycling on the road from Luang Namtha to the Chinese border is excellent. The road is completely sealed with little or no traffic along the way. The route from Luang Namtha to Boten round trip is approximately 120 km long and passes through Laotian hill country and rice fields. The grades range from flat to moderate with one 2-km, 10%-grade stretch. Welcomes along the way are great.

With a motorbike, you can travel around to see the beautiful countryside and visit the villages in and around Luang Namtha (e.g., closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka or Muang Sing). The road to Muang Sing takes about 2 hours and makes for a beautiful journey.

Then there a number of waterfalls to be seen. Close by Namtha town is the Nam Dee waterfall and near Muang Sing is the Gneung Phou Ku Lom waterfall.

There are several herbal saunas in Luang Namtha, the most popular being the one next to the Panda Restaurant, down the lane from the Lao Airlines office. It's a very simple rickety shack, but easy to spot (look for the stove) and equipped with separate male/female saunas, a changing room and lockers. The newest massage and sauna is down the driveway of Minority Restaurant, the standard is slightly higher than some others.

Last but not least, if you liked what you saw, leave a compliment at the People's Complaint Box in front of city hall!

Buy

Banque pour le Commerce Exterieur Laos (BCEL) has an ATM, but all-too-often, patrons complain of non-delivery of the cash. BCEL ATMs have a 20,000 kip ATM service charge (which is one of the lowest in the country) and low transaction limit (1,500,000 kip).

The biggest supermarket of Luang Namtha offering everything from food over laundry detergent to digital SLR cameras is hidden in the second street parallel to the main street west of the nightmarket.

There are three sisters of the Akha tribe who travel from Muang Sing every day to sell their crafts and agricultural products (opium and ganja) to falang. They are difficult to get rid of, and may follow you around town. Enjoy a bilingual conversation with them, it's great fun.

Eat

Eating options in Luang Namtha are decent, but pretty much all restaurants serve the same menu of Lao, Thai, and ersatz Western dishes at the same prices.

The night market is a good choice if you want to try something new after being on pad Thai and sticky rice for a while. Lao market traders are learning that Westerners readily buy their prepared meals, and so there is an option to supplement household income (when the rice paddy isn't otherwise consuming their time). The range on offer runs from soups, laab, BBQ chicken, beer, good Lao coffee, and various fruits. During daytime, the good Lao food is always on offer at the normal daytime market (opposite songthaew bus station). Fried banana with coconut, 1,000 kip; corn on the cob, 500 kip; fruit shake, 5,000 kip; noodle soup, 5,000 kip; ready-made dishes, 5,000 kip

Chinese Restaurants. Two Chinese restaurants which are operated by Chinese who speak little English. There is no menu and you can only order by selecting your dishes in their kitchen. Dishes are a bit oily and the serving style is either plain or spicy. The taste is OK and the pricing is far better than at the restaurants in town.

Coffee House. Open eatery with a comprehensive Thai menu, lattes and cappuccini, great fruit shakes, plus friendly atmosphere.

Lai's Place. Delicious, using fresh ingredients and reasonably priced. Try the peanut Jaeow with sticky rice and vegetables, which is a savoury, herbaceous dip. The fried tofu and vegetables with red curry is very good as well.

Minority Restaurant. This little joint is run by a husband and wife from the Black Tai (Tai Dam) tribe and specializes in tribal cuisine, with Tai Dam, Akha and Lisu dishes on offer. The menu also covers banana pancakes, French fries and other dishes for the Western palate. Vegetarian and vegan selections. Boasts "No MSG" in their dishes.

Rambo Fusion. Delicious Korean BBQ, popular with locals. A portion (30,000-50,000 kip) serves 2 people.

Drink

Luang Nam Tha is not a party town. Places must close by 23:00, but it's easy to find a cold Beerlao.

Bamboo Lounge at Forest Retreat. Kiwi-run. Breakfast menu: baked beans, jaffles, best coffee. Offers cocktails. Wi-Fi. Offers trekking and kayak tours.

Manychan Guesthouse. Probably the most popular place in town, has a dedicated bar on the 2nd floor above the restaurant.

Sleep

Chanlaya Guesthouse. Modern hotel, with large, clean and comfortable rooms. Friendly manager; English spoken. Free Wifi, air conditioning, TV. Attached bathroom with hot shower. No breakfast, but free hot coffee available in the hall.

Adounsiri Guesthouse. Family-run place with clean rooms, double beds with inside bathrooms. Quiet as it's on a street parallel to the main street. Free Wi-Fi and water refill. Bike rentals for 10,000 kip/day. Mind that rooms are not sealed and mosquitoes do come in at night. Owner, Mr. Ketsana.

Dokchampa Hotel. The biggest hotel in town. Free Wi-Fi and 2 computers for use in the lobby, free water (in coolers) in each room, off-street parking, 24-hour security and reception. 61 rooms ranging from pleasant single rooms to huge, plush VIP rooms with huge, nice beds and a bath/shower combo. The 3rd and 4th floor rooms at the back of the building have mountain views.

Houng Heung Guesthouse. This is a colonial styled three storey guesthouse with clean basic rooms and great balconies for relaxing. Rooms have 24/7 electric hot water, Wi-Fi and fans. English speaking staff.

Khamking Guesthouse. This simple guesthouse is comfortable and squeaky clean. Rooms with fan, TV, and attached bathroom.

Tai Dam Guesthouse. This place offers bungalows with that overlook fishing areas, with the hillsides as the surrounding backdrop. The bungalows are designed and decorated in Tai Dam-style. You can also stay in the main building. Attached bathrooms with hot shower and a TV with access to Lao and Thai stations.

Yuranan Guesthouse. Clean with free Wi-Fi.

Zuela Guesthouse. Spacious rooms. Hot showers.

Boat Landing Guesthouse. Bungalows on the river with quiet surroundings.