Lomé.
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Overview

Lomé is the capital and largest city of Togo. With a population of almost 2.2 million (2023), the city is the economic and cultural center of the country. Around a quarter of the country's population lives here.

Understand

Lomé was founded in the 19th century by Ewe people, and subsequently became a major port, trading and administrative center.

In 1897 Lomé became capital of the German colony Togoland. It remained the capital when France took over the colony following World War I and continued to grow throughout the colonial period and since independence.

In 1975 the Lomé Convention was signed between the European Economic Community and 46 African, Caribbean and Pacific states.

Get in

The main border crossing from Ghana is Aflao, less than 2 km from the city centre. Visa on arrival is available at both airport and land border from Ghana for CFA 10,000 - 15,000 depending on your nationality and is good for one week. It can be extended for a month for no extra charge.

Get around

Taxis can be rented from around CFA 500, with CFA 2000 getting you basically anywhere in town. There are route taxis, costing normally CFA 200-400, but if you are visiting they are difficult to figure out and only ever really used by local folks.

The most in-demand app for getting around the city is Gozem. You can book rides on a motorcycle, tricycle (tuk-tuk), and a range of autos, from basic to luxurious.

There are rental car agencies downtown, but if you are just coming for a few days motos are your best option.

The beach road runs directly beside the ocean from Ghana to Benin. The Boulevard Circulaire (le 13 Janvier) acts as a main artery through downtown Lomé, a hemisphere that encloses the Marche and Government buildings. It starts at the beach in Kodjoviakope and wraps around to the beach in Bea.

See

Independence Monument. Commemorates Togo's independence from France on 27 April 1960, with a human silhouette carved within it.

Sacred Heart Cathedral. The iconic cathedral of Lome that was built in 1902 and where Pope John Paul II celebrated mass in 1985.

Le Palais de Lomé. Surrounded by lush botanical gardens and plentiful bird life, this renovated and fully restored colonial building, which once housed the prime minister and other distinguished political guests, is now home to art exhibitions and plentiful historical items. Knowledgeable bilingual (English and French-speaking) guides are on hand to explain the palace's development and the city and region's history. The second-floor patio offers an extravagant view of the Gulf of Guinea and its container ships.

Togo National Museum. Housed in the Palais du Congrès (National Assembly) complex, this museum contains collections, jewellery, musical instruments, dolls, pottery, weapons and many other objects showing the arts and traditions of Togo.

Musée International du Golfe de Guinée. A small museum housing a quite large collection of authentic mainly West African historical items, such as masks (even from the 14th century), wooden chairs, funeral ceremonial items such as stretchers and chests and similar. A bit off the city centre, on the beach but worth a detour if you have the time. May have been renamed Musee International Art d'Afrique.

Do

Enjoy beaches (but do take care for your safety), there are so many, such as:

Marcelo Beach. Bar and beach scene with palapas. Most likely an admission fee.

Royal Beach Lome. Another bar/beach type setting that may or may not have an admission fee.

Closer to the center of town are Lake East and Lake West which might be somewhat interesting for walking along.

Buy

Lomé's biggest attractions are its markets.

The has a large 3-storey hall. It sells everything: red peppers, green lemons, dried fish, combs, travel bags, traditional medicinal remedies, and more. On the first floor is the Nana Benz, which is noted for its clothing.

The smaller and more specialized (CFA 3000 entrance fee; CFA 2000 if taking photos) sells voodoo fetishes, gongons, and gris-gris.

There is also a souvenir market . It sells wooden carvings, clay pots, authentic fabrics, local paintings, and African clothing. Most of them are made on spot and of great value. As always make sure to bargain.

Eat

Lebanese restaurants are peppered throughout Lomé, with the best being in Kodjoviakope and wrapping around with the Boulevard. Recommended are Al Mohatas by the Route de Kpalime and Al Sultan's in Kodjoviakope.

There are two Chinese restaurants, one in Kodjoviakope, the other in Asigame, down the street from the Togocel main offices.

Le Galion. French-owned hotel near the beach in Kodjoviakope which has an excellent restaurant serving omelettes, steaks, spaghetti, salads and desserts.

Le Caliendi - Café Bar Restaurant. Local flavors.

Alt München. Munich cuisine, but a little bit expensive.

TBB Best Burger. Burgers and milkshakes.

For a classy experience, you could try the Akwaba Pool Bar and Grill at the Hotel 2 Fevrier.

Le Namiélé. Located in the country's tallest building, this trendy dining spot offers a Sunday brunch buffet. The later in the afternoon, the more crowded it gets. The menu includes salads, sushi, Indian and Togolese food, desserts, and beverages.

Drink

Lomé really comes alive at night, the local Loméians dressing to the nines and going out to the numerous bars and discothèques. There are many western style dance clubs downtown. Two of the best (and most expensive) are Privilege, attached to the hotel Palm Beach and 7Clash, in Dekon on the Boulevard.

For a more relaxed time, check out the beach close to the border with Ghana - seating is plentiful and, if you're lucky, the Castle Milk Stouts are pretty cold. Be sure to get off of the beach soon after nightfall, as it is easily the most dangerous part of the city.

Local drinks can be found if you dig a little deeper. The local brew of choice is Tchouk, locally brewed millet beer. Other drinks are Deha - palm wine, and Sodabe - Togolese bathtub hooch - grain liquor that burns going down and coming back up. Be wary, it is only for the truly initiated.

Sleep

Hotels are common the closer you get to the beach, the most expensive being the 2 Fevrier and Hotel Sarakawa, on the beach road. Amenities are very accommodating, but they are incredibly expensive for Lomé starting at CFA 100,000 per night.

There are a few nice hotels with fan/air-com in Kodjoviakope and surrounding areas that will run you CFA 7,000-15,000. Check out My Diana's, and for the budget traveller, ask for Mammy's, down the road from the Angolan Embassy (CFA 3,500 per room, rooms fit 2-3).

Auberge Le Galion. Double rooms with ensuite bathroom. Walking distance to the Aflao border crossing. Safe neighbourhood, nice relaxed atmosphere with occasional live music. Popular with expats.

Hôtel Napoléon Lagune / Restaurant / Bar. Relaxed garden-like setting with a pool and restaurant right next to Lac Est (Lake East). Has nice decor. Some have complained about mosquitoes and TV not working, etc.

Hotel Aurore, Restaurant, Bar. Close to beach with restaurant hot tub, attractive patio/bar and garden setting.

Hotel Le Benin. French-run and the food is excellent.

ONOMO Hotel Lomé. Dependable contemporary hotel chain location with buffet breakfast, electronic door locks, pool, allows pets, and, best of all, directly across from the beach.

Hotel 2 Fevrier. Luxury hotel and the highest building in the country.