Kinshasa.
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Overview

Kinshasa is the capital of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It faces Brazzaville, the capital of the neighbouring Republic of the Congo, which can be seen in the distance across the wide Congo River. While sprawling, chaotic and often intimidating, Kinshasa is also a major cultural and intellectual center for Central Africa with a flourishing community of musicians and artists.

Understand

Called Leopoldville after King Leopold II of Belgium during colonial rule, and was re-named to its current name in 1966.

Kinshasa has the largest population of any city proper in Africa with a population of almost 15 million (2020), and ranks as its third largest metropolitan area after Cairo and Lagos. It also declares itself as the largest French-speaking city in the world, although you will find that most people's French is far less than fluent (by any other measure, it still ranks second behind the Paris urban area). After decades of armed conflicts imposed by neighboring countries, the infrastructure of this once-leading modern African city is now being remarkably restored. Chinese companies are involved in numerous projects of reconstruction throughout the city.

Like other cities close to the Equator, Kinshasa's climate is defined by a dry and a wet season. The dry season stretches from June to September, and in these months the temperature is also a few degrees lower than throughout the rain season.

Get in

Kinshasa's N'djili International Airport has a terrible reputation for corrupt officials and police officers asking for bribes. Things are not as bad as they used to be but corruption is still endemic. Just follow everyone else and try not to look like a tourist. You'll notice even the locals give small bribes. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is essential. When flying into Kinshasa, be careful not to lose your luggage tag stub, which you need to show to prove that your luggage is yours. Watch out for being mobbed by volunteer 'helpers' once you are outside the airport, who will want to carry your bags in return for tips. Many travel companies offer, what locals call, protocol, providing assistance in navigating the arrival process and assisting you in collecting luggage and passing the contrôle des douanes.

When leaving, after passing through a security check, you enter the departures area at the airport which has duty free and an Eric Kayser as well as a Brussels Airlines lounge and a VIP and diplomatic lounge - each has their own access policy. When boarding the flight the final time, your departure tax receipts will be verified by the authorities, your passport checked, and you will pass a final security check before boarding the bus to the plane waiting. It should be noted that you cannot bring water past this final security check towards the aircraft as your bags and person will be checked once more.

It is at least 2 hours' drive into the centre of Kinshasa. Another option is to get a shuttle offered by one of the travel companies on the right outside the arrivals door. However, the best option is facilitating transportation from local contacts and arranging a chauffeur/private driver to pick you up at the airport. Expect the trip to last up to 6 hours due to the traffic jams in the city.

The railway of Congo covered the entire country during colonial times, but has deteriorated. It's one of the faster passenger trains in central Africa. Tickets are usually only able to be bought the day of travel shortly before the train arrives and can prove to be difficult to get.

By car Apart from the road Matadi to Kinshasa a car is no means for overland travel. You might be successful with a 4x4 in the upper northern region (Bangassou - Nia Nia - Isiro) and maybe the axis Kinshasa - Lumumbashi. All other towns are accessible only by air transport or boat.

By boat You can arrive by boat from Brazzaville, if you have a visa. There are speed boats that go quickly for a limited number of people, or you can take the barge with local merchants if you have time. Leave before noon. Ask to go to , which is the ferry terminal. It is best to change your money on Brazzaville's side. You will almost certainly have to pay some bribes to be allowed into the country is arriving by public boat.

An onward flight ticket from Kinshasa airport is needed.

Get around

Kinshasa is notorious for its huge traffic jams. It can take up to 2 hours to travel 500m. Avoid commuting time to go around the city.

The local official bus service, Transco, runs large buses that provide Urban, interurban, and scholarly transportation across the city-province with a network of 33 lines, frequently used by commuting locals.

However, the city bus system pales in comparison to the "taxi" system that has risen organically to serve the needs of the people of Kinshasa. Essentially, these taxis are small buses. They run set routes between embarkation points that are the "stops". If one's destination is through multiple points, different taxis will need to be boarded to complete the route, making the system take a good deal of time during busy traffic hours.

People waiting at the stops will move their hands in a variety of gestures to signal which direction they are going. A taxi will then stop and pick up someone if they are going in the same direction and have space in the taxi.

This system works well for the locals. For visitors and foreigners, it can be quite difficult as one needs to know the hand signs, have knowledge of the routes, be ready to sit in cramped, hot vehicles with many other people, and deal with the potential dangers of these vehicles as many are barely road-worthy. Traveling through this manner absolutely requires local help for those unfamiliar with the system. One will also have to speak French or Lingala as the drivers do not speak English.

There are also traditional taxis for hire. They are available for single runs or can be hired by the day. This can be a tricky business and should be handled with care (especially at the airport) as there are those will take people to remote locations and rob them. Again, help from a local is best or using drivers that others in the area have past experience with and trust.

Hiring a private chauffeur is a common practice for many foreigners in Kinshasa during their stay. Private taxi service can also be arranged by local travel agencies.

See

National Museum of the Democratic Republic of Congo. First opened in 1970, this museum moved to new premises in June 2019. Hosts a large selection of ethnographic objects.

Lola ya Bonobo. The world's only sanctuary for orphaned bonobos. Since 2002, the sanctuary has been located at Les Petites Chutes de la Lukaya, just outside of Kinshasa.

Kinkole. A small village in the eastern part of the city's rural area. It's on the RN1 (Boulevard Lumumba), further than the airport. It has a nice restaurant area where you can enjoy all the local food on a terrace. A lot of people come here to relax so there's a lot of people trying to get you into their business. If you go closer to the river there's a fisherman market where food from the river is brought. Be careful if you want to take pictures, you'll probably have to pay someone first as this is considered the international border.

Jardin d'Eden. A small village in the eastern part of the city's rural area. It's on the RN1 (Boulevard Lumumba), further than the airport. It has a nice restaurant area where you can enjoy all the local food on a terrace. A lot of people come here to relax so there's a lot of people trying to get you into their business. If you go closer to the river there's a fisherman market where food from the river is brought. Be careful if you want to take pictures, you'll probably have to pay someone first as this is considered the international border.

Parc de la Vallée de la N'Sele. It might seem a little out of place in Africa, but it's a commercialized drive-thru wildlife safari hosting lions, giraffes, etc, plus it also has a restaurant, pool, and pedestrian suspension bridge across the Nsele River.

Mbudi Nature. A private park and relaxation area with superior views of the mighty Congo River.

Limete Tower. One of the tallest buildings in Africa. Planned as a monument to Patrice Lumumba in 1966, the tower remained unfinished for decades until finally completed in 2011. As of 2022 it's possible to visit the surrounding garden, but the tower itself is not open.

Our Lady of the Congo Cathedral. Catholic Church built in 1947.

Do

A barbecue on a sandbank on the Congo River is a must. Go for a walk/jog along the river in front of the British and German embassies. Go to church on a Sunday morning like most of the locals do. Go out to eat at one of the many restaurants, cafes, bars, and night clubs, live it up like a local.

Learn

Lingala is the local language spoken in this region beyond French. Learning a bit goes a long way to befriending locals.

Lingala is spoken almost exclusively by locals as the lingua franca is French. There is extremely limited knowledge of languages other than French and Lingala (and other tribal and local languages such as Swahili). The government and business sector all operates in French and most people in Kinshasa speak French, especially in the commune of Gombe (the business district), and surrounding communes (I.e. Ngaliema, Kintambo, Ngiri-Ngiri, etc.)

Buy

Don't forget to get some arts in (market of value), sometimes called marché des voleurs (thieves' market). For some more upscale art you can go to the Academie des Beaux Arts on Avenue Pierre Mulele (formerly Avenue 24 Novembre) or to Symphonie des Arts: towards Kintambo on the Boulevard du 30 Juin, turn right after the elephant when you see the barrier on your right, then it's on your left hand across from the big colonial villa. A more time consuming but far more interesting and personal way to get to know the artists of the country would be to visit their private studios. Prices are high even there for paintings of Lema Kusa, Henri Kalama or Nshole, but worth every penny considering the quality of their works and their international prestige. A more relaxed and fun way to buy street art is to have a beer at . It is on the street off the boulevard 30 Juin towards Justice off the INSS building. Sit at a table and have a drink (Primus is recommended) and the artists will come and show all kinds of artworks. The same rule on negotiating applies as at Marché des valeurs.

The good supermarkets are the following:

Peloustore. . Good vegetables and all dry goods that you can find in Belgium. Expresse located on the boulevard, a little off from Peloustore. Here you can find good vegetables and the best "charcuterie", cold cut meat.

City Market. If you turn on the corner of Expresse, you will see this large supermarket on your left hand. It has the best bread in the city. Alternatively across from it you will find excellent bread (and more) in Patisserie Nouvelle, which also has good possibilities of lunch.

Kin Marché. Supermarket chain. Stores are in many parts of town.

GG Mart. Larger supermarket chain available in several parts of town

Lesser amounts, and any remainder, will be paid in Congolese francs.

This can be far higher at certain establishments, such as at the airport.

Credit cards are not widely accepted so don't count on them. Only major hotels (for example, The Memling) and some supermarkets will accept them (if there are no connectivity issues).

Cash can be withdrawn from the Pro Credit Bank with an international Visa ATM card. Ensure that you have notified your bank of your intentions to travel in order to ensure seamless and unhindered use of foreign ATMs.

Eat

There are lots of restaurants for expatriates, where you can pay in dollars but they are very expensive.

Budget Al Dar, near the hotel Memling. A Lebanese restaurant in the city centre.

There are many cheap roadside stalls, primarily outside Gombe.

La Bloque, Bandalungwa. One of the better known roadside stalls. Mama Colonel, Bandal. An excellent restaurant. The menu has only 4 items - chicken, fish, fries and plantain - but they are barbecued to perfection.

Mid-range The freshwater prawns from the Congo River are incredible - called Cossa Cossa on menus (as distinct from imported saltwater prawns which are Gambas) - generally served with a garlic and chili (pili-pili) butter sauce. Marie Kabuang – A bit difficult to find on the first floor of the Sultani Hotel (Avenue de la Justice), but totally renewed restaurant. Very stylish and modern. Cercle Elaeis/La Paillotte. Traditional and international food. Outdoor dining with view on the pool. Expensive but great country-club type setting. Packed with visiting expats and Lebanese families hanging by the pool on weekends. La Piscine. Greek items and pizza as well as the usual dishes. Pizerria Opoeta and Greg's bar: on the road towards the golf course: closest thing to an international pub. Good pizzas. Excellent seafood thanks to the Portuguese proprietors. Good value. Safe parking facilities. Reservations advisable.

Splurge The more expensive restaurants are in Gombe.

Café Conc. The most expensive restaurant in the DRC, allegedly!

Le Cercle Gourmand. High class restaurant, belongs to the golf club.

La Brasserie. Great food. Belgian-French influences with a few Congolese dishes. Rather pricy but worth it, generous portions and great service. Safe parking on hotel premises

Chez Gaby. Portuguese-style. Frequented by the upper class - the food is varied and excellent and if you want to splash out, there are imported items such as foie gras and European wines.

Drink

Local beer: Turbo King is a darker beer, regular lagers are Primus (which some consider is the best local beer, brewed by the local Heineken brewery) and Skol. European Mutzig comes in smaller bottles. A bit more expensive, and slightly harder to find as it is brewed in Lubumbashi by Simba Breweries, is Tembo, a tasty amber ale. Tembo garners the highest ranking for a DRC beer on ratebeer.com. Lots of expensive French and South African wine available in restaurants and supermarkets. Portuguese wine can be found quite cheaply at grocery stores catering to expats (Peloustore, Express, etc.).

Kinshasa becomes alive most nights when residents head to Matonge, a place filled with dancing bars, restaurants and night clubs. Lately Bandal and Bonmarche are the more popular "quartiers" to visit the local bars and "discotheques". Go to a local nightclub and learn how to dance Congolese rhythms. Get ready to shake your booty! For those that prefer to stay in Gombe, the following offer good possibilities:

Chacha Bar. A terrace patio bar overlooking the city with tiki torches.

Village of Chez Ntemba. A hopping place after midnight.

Spirit Club & Bar B Q. Lots of soft neon lights, and a courtyard.

K Lounge. Cigars, tapas, champagne, little twinkly lights.

New Standing Club. Small western-style bar and disco.

Coco Jambo Lounge & Lounge. Upscale club/lounge.

Millionaire Club. Strobe lights on dance and party floor.

New Savanana. On the boulevard in the Gecamines/Sozacom building, the highest building in Kinshasa, close to the central station. Definitely an interesting experience for those that dare confront the local girls.

Hotel bars are popular with expats and usually have live music several nights a week.

Bar of Sultani Hotel. The style bar of the Sultani Hotel has been changed and is now providing a comfortable feeling and (jazz) partys every Friday, live music, no ticket to pay.

Cockpit Bar. The Memling's main bar. Classy setting. Business during the day, try their wild Congolese tea infused with lemongrass, a must. Cozy lounge in the evening with jazz, blues, soul music in the background. Happy hour from 18:00-20:00, where they do BOGO nights for draught beers and kwilu rhum cocktails and world music

Bar La Piscine. The Memling Hotel's pool bar, nice food, has an upper terrace, a little oasis overlooking the pool with semi-private little gazebos - great little romantic hangout. The pool bar & charcoal grill definitely serves the best burger and bbq in town. Safari BBQ in dry season. Does BOGO nights/Happy Hour for draught beers and kwilu rhum cocktails from 17:00 to 19:00. Enclosed, guarded parking on the hotel property

Water Do not drink tap water or use it when brushing your teeth. Bottled water is readily available.

Sleep

Accommodation in Kinshasa can be very expensive. A consequence of the past problems mean that many organisations only recognise two hotels as having international standards. So the Memling and the Grand have a virtual monopoly. Now a new luxury Hotel called Hotel Royal has opened. Modern boutique hotel with all amenities inclusive.

Hotel Pour Vous. Outdoor pool and patio.

Léon Hôtel Kinshasa. Hotel featuring breakfast and other dining.

Residence Marika. A simple 3-star hotel just off the main boulevard, with swimming pool.

Hotel Memling. Probably the best and second most expensive hotel in town. Has been around since 1937, and has since then maintained its place as the city's Number One venue on this side of the river. Wireless Internet throughout, nice but small pool, bar and restaurants, good Belgium food. Excellent conference facilities, the hotel is located within 5 to 10 minutes of the city's main business and political ventures.

Pullman Kinshasa Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel is the other fancy hotel in the city, and well located near the river, embassies and luxury homes; it is frequented by locals as well as internationals. Located near the Congo River and near new developments including the Financial Centre and new shopping centres.

Hotel Royal. 4-star. Restaurant, cafe, cigar lounge, conference centre, in the city centre next to Brussels Airlines office.

Sultani Hotel. In the city centre, close to the River Congo. Staff are motivated and speak English, French, German and Chinese.

Fleuve Congo Hotel. Renovated in 2012, Fleuve is now one of the most luxurious hotels in town.

Ledya Pyramide Hotel. Hotel Pyramide is a small, but luxury hotel, about 5 km out of the city centre. All rooms have a bathroom with Jacuzzi, warm water, hairdryer and a fridge. In March 2008 however, there was only cold water available and in insufficient quantities to take a proper shower or bath. Most rooms are spacious (some are like a small apartment) and dispose of flatscreen TVs and one or two air-conditioning units.

Faden House. A small guesthouse across the street from Grand Hotel. Great location in Gombe, a block away from the River Congo (great walking/jogging route) and many of the European embassies. A calm oasis in Kinshasa. Some English spoken. Only 9 rooms (avoid rooms 1 and 3). Also a well-used conference facility, and the quality of service deteriorates when staff are occupied with a function. There are small fridges in the rooms, but no safe deposit facility, and only a couple of French/Congolese TV channels.

Hotel Elais. Pool with diving board.