Kigali.
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Overview

Kigali is the capital of Rwanda. The centre of political and commercial life, Kigali dominates Rwanda and few visit the country without passing through. The city is developing fast, and is very much a showpiece capital designed to impress visitors from tourists to foreign investors and visiting dignitaries.

Understand

With a population topping 1 million, the city spreads over several hills and valleys, with many of the better restaurants and hotels away from the traditional downtown area. The Kigali City Masterplan outlines the future for this burgeoning metropolis, with plans for a new city to be built south of the current city centre.

As a clean, comfortable and ordered city, Kigali is very popular with long term expats, and the city is teeming with westerners, from young church or NGO volunteers having their first African ‘experience’ to career development workers enjoying a relaxed lifestyle where it is safe to bring up young children. This in turn means the city supports numerous restaurants, coffee shops and supermarkets that cater to this demographic. The downside of Kigali’s popularity with foreigners is that it is easy to forget you are in Africa.

Visitor information from the Kigali city government.

Talk

Learn a bit of English and maybe even a bit of Swahili and Kinyarwanda; all three are extremely useful here. French is also widely spoken, at least in Kigali. A useful Kinyarwanda vocabulary cheat sheet is available, or you can buy a conversational booklet from sellers at bus stations.

Get in

If you fly from Kigali Airport, you may need a Yellow Fever Certificate at your destination (e.g. South Africa). Also be careful of waiting in the cafe for your flight: some flights (e.g. Kenya Airways to Nairobi) are often overbooked, and you won't hear any announcement when they decide to start boarding early and might miss your flight.

There are also buses passing in the front of the airport leading to Remera, Kigali City, and Nyabugogo.

Some people use also moto bikes for the transportation, but they are not as safe as a car.

If you need any help obtaining these services or hiring a car, airport guides are available to help you.

Airport amenities There are a few 24-hour bar and restaurants in the airport, plus duty-free shops and supermarkets. The airport also provides free Wi-Fi, and luggage storage, medical services and police are on site.

A new airport called Bugesera Airport is under construction 20km south of Kigali, but as of 2025 is not expected to be operational until 2028.

There are a couple of daily buses that run directly between Kigali and Kampala in Uganda with some services continuing to Nairobi. The buses are sometimes cramped and uncomfortable, but are the cheapest choice. There are a couple of daily buses that run directly between Kigali and Bujumbura in Burundi. Yahoo Car, New Yahoo, East African Car Express (big bus) and Belvedere have buses in the morning.

Get around

By moto Motos (motorcycle taxis) are the most popular and fastest way to get around town. A trip to or from the airport should be FRw1500-2000 (Feb 2024).

On the main road out to the airport they really put their foot down. It is however a good well sealed road, nice views over Kigali City and a thrilling ride.

Ride hailing Two main ride hailing apps operate in Kigali: Move, operated by Volkswagen. All cars are VW models, with both sedans and vans available. Rides can be booked in advance. Payment by cash, credit card, or mobile money. Yego, a Rwandan app offering both cab and moto rides. Available on iOS and Android, or call 9191 to book. Payment by cash or mobile money.

Both work similarly to Uber and are recommended over hailing taxis on the street, especially for visitors unfamiliar with local pricing.

By taxi There are many taxis in Kigali, but are expensive compared to motos. Taxis are mainly of two types in Kigali: those operated by individuals (usually with some form of yellow stripe on the vehicle) and more professorially run services operated by a single large operator. Kigali Airport Taxis and Kigali Taxi Service are the two major groups, and while there are other companies also running taxis these are the largest and both operate a number you can call to summon a taxi. 3122 for Kigali Taxis service and 476586 for Kigali Airport Taxi service. A reliable individual is Alex, who is on 0788741559 (French & some English spoken).

An alternative to taxis is Move, Rwanda's only rideshare service owned and operated by Volkswagen. Both sedans and vans (all VW models) are available, and rides may also be arranged in advance. Both cash and credit card payments are accepted.

By bus Matatus/city buses (minibuses) provide major routes throughout the city and are the cheapest way to get around. The minibus in Rwanda is one of the best forms of transport in East Africa. Most of the buses are still new and are maintained well. There are several minibus companies which connect Kigali and the other cities in Rwanda.

There is also an organized and secure city bus network in Kigali, with prices between FRw110 and FRw517 depending on the route. As there are different buses that are going in different destinations every bus has a route identifier number. City buses operate on a cashless system using Tap&Go cards, which can be purchased at bus terminals and agent locations and topped up via mobile money. Cash is not accepted on city buses.

See

The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre. Opened in April 2004 on the 10th anniversary of the genocides. Over 250,000 people are buried here, and there is a truly touching museum. Kigali houses several memorials, museums, and centers dedicated to the Rwandan Genocide. Audio guides and real guides are available. Cafe on site that makes excellent coffee, and supports local youth and businesses. Since 2023, it's one of four memorials making up the Memorial sites of the Genocide: Nyamata, Murambi, Gisozi and Bisesero.

Presidential Palace Museum. The abode of the former President Habyarimana, who died in that infamous plane crash of 1994 that sparked the genocide. Guided tours are mandatory, where you can get a glimpse of life as an African dictator in the 1970s & 80s. There is also a display on Rwandan clothing that is quite interesting. Photography is restricted. You'll probably end up outside the military hospital at the end of the tarred road; the museum is another 300 m along the dirt road (GPS coordinates 1.97543S, 30.17206E).

Inema Arts Centre. Displays of artwork from around Rwanda.

Kandt House Museum. Natural history museum focusing on Rwanda flora and fauna in the former home of a German named Richard Kandt. Also excellent venue from which to view the city skyline.

Belgian Peacekeepers Memorial. Memorial to 10 Belgian peacekeepers were gunned down on the first day of the 1994 genocide crisis while attempting to protect the Rwandan Prime Minister. Adjacent is the Kigali Cultural Village where events may take place and souvenirs purchased.

Campaign Against Genocide Museum. This museum is a collection of the history of the campaign against genocide in the whole country as a summary. It has a map that indicates the basements of all battalions of RPA soldiers and all the routes they took during the execution of their mission. This museum was also a place where the 600 soldiers were living while they were waiting for the implementation of the Arusha Peace Accord.

Nyanza Genocide Memorial. This memorial is the site of four tiled-over mass graves holding the remains of thousands of Tutsis who were executed after the regiment of UN guards protecting them were killed.

Do

Take a trip to a craft centre, like the Dancing Pots Craft Centre or the Cards for Africa workshop and sales room in Kigali.

Nyandungu Eco-park. A 120-ha restored wetland and forest area and an important bird area.

Gisozi circuit. A great 10-km running circuit through Kigali's suburbs — flat, very little traffic and some great views over the rice paddies.

Ten pin bowling. Opened in 2012 and proving popular. Six lanes of ball-rolling fury complete with the TV screen keeping score, ball returners, shoe rental, and slidy, polished alleys. Adding a delightful twist to employment creation the pins are reset by hand rather than a machine.

Nyamirambo Women's Center. Here you can take guided walking tours, cooking classes, or have lunch at an enterprise geared toward enabling women to succeed with computers, literacy, sewing and handicrafts.

Work

Your best bet would be with an aid organization or NGO. If you are a resident of the US or EU, you can avoid paying for an expensive residency permit by declaring yourself a tourist upon arrival and then traveling outside of Rwanda once every 90 days for the length of your day. Your 90-day tourist visa (automatically granted upon entry) will be renewed each time you leave and reenter the country (and it's a convenient excuse to go on vacation!)

Buy

First thing to be aware is that Kigali can be expensive.

Outside of supermarkets and restaurants most vendors are used to a bit of haggling (even over fruit and veg) although as always keep things in perspective - but don't let storekeepers charge you double what you think you should be paying.

Mobile money is the most common way to pay in Kigali. Most shops, restaurants, market vendors, and even motos accept MTN MoMo or Airtel Money. To use mobile money you'll need a local SIM card registered with your passport (see Connect). Once registered, visit any MTN or Airtel agent to deposit cash onto your account. You can also top up remotely using international transfer apps such as Remitly or WorldRemit.

Cash machines/ATMs – most banks ATMs now accept Master Card, Visa card, American card, Diners Club, Union Pay, and JCB, including Equity Bank , Ecobank, Bank of Kigali, Kenya Commercial Bank, GT Bank, I&M Bank; Ecobank HQ is in the center of town next to CNLS and near UTC. There are many ATMs accepting international cards at the airport also. Don't count on any particular ATM to have money or be working at any particular time - even at the airport.

There are banks in Kigali with counter service for withdrawals (and Ecobank can do MasterCard withdrawals).

What to buy Rwandan coffee is generally very good (although stay away from the cheapest stuff, which will be the sweepings from the grinding factory floor). Expect to pay around FRw4,000 per 500 g. Rwandan honey is great, especially the Nyungwe Highlands type. Around FRw1,750 per 500 g. Rwandan tea (both black and green) is also pretty good.

Local markets These are stocked with Rwandan handicrafts, produce, clothing, fabulous colorful fabric from West Africa and just about anything else.

Kimironko market. This large market is a good place for fruit, veg, rice and other basic foodstuffs - and it can be good fun looking through the secondhand clothes section, or even buy some local-style clothes yourself.

Caplaki Craft Village. Place to shop for local handicrafts and souvenirs.

Simba Supermarkets. The anchor tenant at the new Kigali Heights mall. Also has branches in Gishushu, Kimironko, and Kicukiro.

Eat

By all standards Kigali is an excellent city in which to dine. A combination of Belgian culinary influence, plenty of cows, plenty of freshwater fish, and plenty of fresh vegetables equates to some of the best eating in the region. And it's all pretty affordable.

Kigali restaurants and bars go in and out of fashion, not to mention close down, quite frequently. Check for the latest once you are in town; some places mentioned in some print guidebooks no longer exist. (The oft-mentioned Turtle Cafe has been closed since 2003!)

The region restaurants take their time – with a usual 45 minutes to 1 hour wait between ordering and your food arriving, especially for dinner. If you are after a quick meal at lunchtime, there are several African buffets around, where you pile your plate high and are out the door in 30 minutes.

As Kigali is quite a sprawling city eateries are organised by suburb.

La Classe. Sometimes excellent, sometimes not, La Classe is oft overlooked by Kigali's expats, but the fillet steak can be sublime. Also does a FRw3,500 lunchtime buffet

Ki Asili Resto Bar and Fast Food. Rooftop resto bar serving Ethiopian/Eritrean food. Ideal for groups, birthdays, get-togethers. Check with customer care before planning, and book your date. Many times venue is booked in advance.

Milima. Milima have good food, with special themed lunches everyday.

Chez Robert. Serves local food in a nice setting. There may be better local food in a hole-in-the wall restaurant for cheaper, but this is wonderful restaurant.

Heaven. Is a new restaurant serving American and Continental cuisine. A bit pricy, with most entrees costing FRw4000 or above, but the well-prepared food (and fantastic dessert menu) are worth every franc.

The New Cactus. Very good pizzas, popular among expats. Nevertheless the served pizzas can't be compared to Italian ones. Try to get a table in the sheltered part of the open air restaurant, it can be quite windy.

Khana Khazana. Serves fantastic Indian food and is one of the best and most popular restaurants in town with expats, visitors, business travellers and Rwandan citizens.

Africa Bite. Popular lunchtime African buffet, local and regional cuisine. Everything about this place is African, from food to décor; their plates are also moulded out of clay.

Repub Lounge. Great restaurant, great environment.

Boho Restaurant. Outdoor seating, delivery, takeaway, dine-in.

Kurry Kingdom. Outdoor seating, no-contact delivery, takeaway, dine-in.

Switch. Continental cuisine, presenting a diverse menu. From pizzas to burgers. LGBTQ+ friendly

Koza Bistro. Other Servises Provided are, Outdoor seating, Delivery, Takeaway, Dine-in.

Sakae. Run by a Korean family, Sakae serves up both Japanese and Korean dishes in spacious and pleasant surroundings. A little pricey, but many prefer Sakae to nearby Zen.

Zen. With the dining area nestled under a huge thatched hut, with trickling water and subtle lighting, there are few places in town that can compete atmosphere-wise. The food is usually pretty good, however you can feel a little cheated by the portion sizes, and the extras added to your bill (rice, service, VAT). Accordingly Zen is popular with those with expense accounts.

Sole Luna. A firm favourite in Kigali - decent wood fired pizzas, expensive lunch time buffet, great views from the terrace - popular with locals and expats alike. Monday nights is quiz night, which is mystifyingly popular.

Tangren Chinese Restaurant. Set in lush gardens, this is one of the better Chinese places in town, in part as the owner and chef is Chinese. An added plus is that service only takes 15 minutes or so. One of the few restaurants with rabbit on the menu - and very tasty it is too.

Other The Camellia tea house has an amazing selection of teas, and has good food. Their lunch buffet is very popular.

Drink

Bottled water is recommended for foreign visitors. It can be bought at almost every supermarket or pump station. About FRw2,500 without deposit.

For alcohol try the night club and the . Both are superb. Watch out for pickpockets outside the New Cadillac.

Sleep

Accommodation in downtown Kigali is noticeably more expensive than neighboring capitals like Kampala and Nairobi. Most of the budget options (for example the Hotel Gloria mentioned in older LPs) are gone. Outside the city center however, it is possible to find good budget options.

Auberge La Caverne. Clean rooms and good basic breakfast. It's a long, uphill walk from the bus station, consider paying FRw500 for a moto-taxi

Mamba Rwanda Youth Hostel. Table tennis and billiards, bar and grill available.

Hope Guesthouse. Good basic traveller hotel two minutes walk from the Nyabugogo bus station on a main road. There is a large pub next to the hotel with good food and the usual football TV in the evenings. Downstairs is a massage place. There are also some Visa-accepting ATMs next door. There are plenty of buses to the city center, or walk for about one hour up-hill. Next to the Hope Guesthouse are many other guesthouses with even cheaper clean rooms.

Auberge de Nyamirambo. Single room with outside bathroom. Double room with own bathroom.

Anthurium Residential Hotel. Single/double rooms. Has 8 rooms.

Center St Paul. Clean single double rooms with own hot water bathroom. Nice garden.

Gloria Hotel. Which only has cold water showers.

Hotel Isimbi. Also has a good bar and restaurant.

Iris Guest House. Clean, big rooms, hot water, very good restaurant and free Internet.

Okapi Hotel. Some rooms have an excellent view over the outskirts of Kigali. They are 'downstairs' and aren't worth it.

Park View Courts Rwanda. Enjoy a serene environment in this homely apart-hotel complex, with a view to die for and friendly staff.

Step Town Hotel. Clean, very nice rooms, hot water, and free Internet.

Splurge Kigali now has three international class hotels, built as part of the country's bid to increase tourism and better support business travellers.

Marasa Umubano Hotel. Still known by its former name Novotel by almost everyone. Ask for a swimming pool view room on a high floor for a beautiful sunrise to wake you from your slumber.

Hotel des Mille Collines. While the movie Hotel Rwanda was filmed in South Africa, this is where the actual events took place. The hotel has two restaurants, a pool, internet and a gift shop. The hotel underwent extensive renovation in 2010. All rooms have safes but no hair dryer or coffee maker. Free access to Wi-Fi, but coverage is uneven. Wonderful breakfast buffet. Apart from the movie this hotel is also the setting for the novel Un dimanche à la piscine à Kigali.

Kigali Serena Hotel. Formerly a Belgian-owned hotel known as the Diplomates and briefly portrayed in Hotel Rwanda. Renovated in 2011. Free WiFi throughout, health club and spa. The lagoon pool and waterfall form a centerpiece to the hotel. While inside the hotel or the restaurants, you can truly be oblivious to the rest of the city outside - which may be a good or bad thing - depending on your mood.

Four Points by Sheraton Kigali. Across the street from the Serena Hotel. It offers in-room Wi-Fi, parking, airport shuttle, breakfast, a pool, and fitness center. It also offers some perks for Marriott Bonvoy members.