Khartoum.
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Overview

Khartoum (Arabic: الخرطوم Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue and White Niles merge to form the Nile. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms. The Blue Nile flows between Khartoum and Bahri, the White Nile between Khartoum and Omdurman, and the merged Nile between Bahri and Omdurman. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile, known as Al-Mogran, lies just north of the bridge between Khartoum and Omdurman.

Khartoum proper is the seat of the Sudanese government and is the largest of the three cities. The older part of the city lies beside the White Nile while the newer parts, such as Al-Amarat and Khartoum Two, spread out to the south, across the railway line and the ring road, and around the airport runway. The city, both the old part and its newer extensions, is laid out mostly in a grid. Omdurman has a more Middle Eastern atmosphere with maze-like streets and is home to the huge Souq Omdurman. Bahri is largely industrial and residential.

Get in

Sudan's national carrier Sudan Airways links Khartoum and several African and regional capitals, and with Sudan's domestic airports at Port Sudan, Nyala, El-Fashir, Malakal, Juba, Dongola, Wadi Halfa and El-Obeid.

Go early as the airport can get a bit chaotic. Be prepared for long waits and queue cutting. Immigration checks and other security checks can also take a long time.

There is a bank facility to change money open during the night when there are flights.

Getting to town: the airport is located close to the city in Al-Amarat. You can also walk out to the main road about 200 m from the airport terminal and catch minibuses that cruise along the road. Alternatively you can book a metered taxi.

By bus The chaotic Souq al-Shaabi used to be the main bus terminal for long distance south-bound buses in Khartoum, but a new terminal (Meena al Barre) has been built which is more orderly. Buses leave for Port Sudan, Wad Medani, Kassala, El-Obeid, Karima (8 hr, SGD 275), Gedarif (6 hr, SGD 275) and other cities. Again, there are no buses to southern Sudan.

Buses from Aswan travel 24 hours, 450 EGP.

Buses to Atbara depart from (also known as Shendi Bus Station).

Rail services to Khartoum are limited, but investment have brought hopes of a rejuvenation of train travel. There is the daily Nile Express from Atbara as well as services three times per day from Wad Madani. Older, more infrequent trains run from Port Sudan, Wadi Halfa - for connections with ferries from Egypt - and even Nyala. There main station is .

By car The main tarred road goes south from Khartoum to Wad Medani then east to Gedaref (for the Ethiopian border at Gallabat), Kassala (for the Eritrean border, which is closed) and then to Port Sudan. South from Khartoum, a road also goes to El-Obeid, which then continues west towards the Chadian border via Darfur, which is a bit dangerous to use. From the north, the road comes in from Wadi Halfa via Atbara.

There are no road links to southern Sudan. The only option is to fly.

By boat There are no boat services along the Nile to destinations outside Khartoum.

Get around

Khartoum is both easy and difficult to get around. It is easy in that much of the city is laid out on a grid, with long straight roads and the airport and Nile as easy reference places. It is difficult in that the city (or indeed the 3 cities) are very spread out, making walking a long and tiring option.

Maps are hard to come by, but Google Earth offers some good high-resolution images.

By taxi These come in three varieties; bright yellow and often beaten up Toyota Corollas Model 1977, small 6-seater minivans, and more modern metered taxis.

Fair "foreigner" prices for taxis are roughly: SDG 17.50 plus SDG 4.61 per km.

Most taxi drivers speak no English, can't read maps, and often can't read Arabic either; they often even have little idea about Khartoum's geography, especially about other parts of the city to where you pick him up.

By minibus Minibuses are the cheapest way to get around Khartoum, especially between the three cities. There are easily thousands of minibuses and seeing all of them gather near the Great Mosque and Souk al-Arabi is a sight to behold. They are however quite complicated to use. None of them bear destination signs and you will have to be able to speak a little Arabic with their conductors to determine which minibus to take. They are also always packed to the brim.

Most of the minibuses leave from the square near the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) or nearby in Khartoum proper.

By car Describing Khartoum's traffic as chaotic is a bit of an understatement. The economic boom has put many more cars on the road, although driving attitudes have not changed, resulting in almost comical chaos at intersections. As Khartoum is laid out in a grid, there are many intersections for cars from all directions to barge in to fight for space. Having said that, the slow speed of vehicles ensures that they are very few major accidents, at least in the city. If you are not used to such driving conditions, it is better to resort to taxis.

‘Limousine’ is the Arabic word for car hire – try along Airport Road or Ibed Khetim Road (east of the airport) for car hire places.

By three-wheeled taxis Called "bajaj" (like in India) or "raksha", they are cheaper than taxis but more expensive than buses so less than SDG 5 per trip. They are best used for short trips within each of Khartoum's three cities. It is better to use taxis or minibuses if you have to cross the Nile to travel between the three cities.

By boat There are no ferry services between the three cities as they are well connected by road bridges.

There is a ferry service between Khartoum proper and Tuti Island, a rural islet in the middle of the Blue Nile. In Khartoum, boats leave from the river bank along Nile Street opposite the Friendship Hall to the west of the city center. A ferry also runs between Tuti and Omdurman (except on Fridays)

See

Nile Street or Shari'a Al-Nilشارع النيل الخرطوم: Probably the prettiest street in Khartoum. With the Blue Nile on one side, the street is lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even a hotel, the Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum. The Presidential Palace, also fronting the Blue Nile, is a pretty building but you will not be allowed to walk in front of it - the guards will ask you to cross the road and proceed behind and around the building. You will also see the modern side of Khartoum along this street - the egg-shaped, Libyan-owned Al-Fateh Tower; Chinese-built Friendship Hall. The National Museum is also along Nile Street. The road is tree-lined most of the way (except towards the west) and has a sidewalk, so walking is quite pleasant. Many people sit on the concrete walls along the river.

Sudan Presidential Palace Museum. This museum is located in the grounds of the Presidential Palace and is housed in the impressive century old Palace Cathedral. The palace contains many relics and pieces related to Sudan's administrative and modern political history, from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to the Presidential cars of more recent rulers.

The Changing of the Guard: This is a ceremony held on the first Friday of every month, where the Black Guard and the White Guard of the Presidential Palace swap over. The ceremony is performed near the South Gate of the palace.

Confluence of the Blue and White Nile. If you have the stamina, you will reach the confluence of the two branches of the Nile if you continue walking west along Nile Street for about 3–4 km from the Presidential Palace. The confluence is called Al-Mogran and it is best seen from the metal bridge (the old one, not the newer concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman or Al-Mogran Family Park. It is said that one can actually see the two different colours from the different branches come together and flow separately for a distance downriver before mixing together. The Al-Mogran Family Park, which has a Ferris wheel and other rides, is located near the bridge. Warning: There is a signboard saying "no photos" from the bridge. Please heed it as people have been arrested for taking photos of the confluence!

Souq Arabi. If you want to see crowds and action, this is the place. The commercial heart of town, Souq Arabi (Arabian Market) can provide everything you need (see "Buy" section for more details on shopping options). The market is huge and spread over several squares in the center of Khartoum proper just south of the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) and the minibus station. Come here to see Khartoumites go about their daily lives.

National Museum of Sudan. Surprisingly impressive museum that has had a bit of a revamp. The large hall contains exhibits that rival those in the ancient Egypt sections of the British Museum or the New York Met, however if you’ve arrived in Khartoum fresh from temple gazing in Egypt things may look familiar. The gardens contain three temples relocated from Aswan. The joy of the place is that you’ll have it all pretty much to yourself. Best visit in the mornings, and give yourself 2 hours, tends to close at 12:00 but not reopen at 15:00, contrary to the sign on the door.

Sudan Ethnographic Museum. A fascinating little museum on the corner of Al Gamaa street and Mak Nemir Avenue. This museum explores the various cultures and traditions of Sudan's numerous ethnic groups. Displays range from intricate handicrafts to models of traditional homes. This museum is certainly worth a visit, if you have the time.

St. Matthew's Cathedral. Neo-Romanesque Roman Catholic cathedral, built in 1908.

Souq Omdurman. Said to be one of the largest markets in Africa and you can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - it is towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, as stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. It's not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also.

The Mahdi's tomb. Burial place of Muhammad Ahmad, the leader of an Islamic revolt against the Ottoman-Egyptian occupation of Sudan in the late 19th century.

The Khalifa's House. Abdullah al-Taaisha, also known as "The Khalifa" succeeded as leader of the Mahdists on the death of the Mahdi. His house is now a museum and is worth a visit if you want to get a flavour of Omdurman's history. Exhibits include various remnants from old battles and some interesting old British newspaper clippings reporting the British efforts in the Sudan.

Sufi dancing. Rightly recommended as a must do for visitors to Khartoum. Every Friday (except during Ramadan) tourists and visiting foreign aid workers flock to the Hamed al-Nil tomb with cameras in hand. A very colourful and noisy celebration. It's about 2 km south of the Omdurman souq - ask your taxi driver to go to Ghobba al-Hamed al-Nil.

Bombed Al-Shifa pharmaceutical factory. a fascinating place to explore, and well off the Khartoum tourist trail (if Khartoum even has such a thing). Tomahawked in 1998 the remains are an eerie reminder of Sudan's precarious relationship with the West. It's quite easy to reach - get a minibus to Bahri, then get a taxi. The guards are quite friendly and will let you in for a wander - a contribution would be gratefully received.

Nuba Wrestling. Every Friday at 16:00 two teams of wrestlers battle it out in front of several hundred spectators – and it certainly is quite a spectacle and well worth the trip. It’s about 12 km from central Khartoum next to souq Sita Al Haj Yousef – best get a taxi there but you can easily find a bus back to al-Arabi in central Khartoum for SDG 3-5.

Umm Marrahi fort. Ruined fortress on the top of Umm Marrahi hill, the defences was built in the 2nd half of the 6th century AD by the kingdom of Alwa.

Do

Clubs There are many professional and international clubs spread around the three cities. Providing for sport, cultural activities or simply a place to meet, they are a lively remnant of British influence.

Greek club. Khartoum 2, entrance off Mak Nimir Ave. The hideout of Sudan's Greek community, it is open to the public and offers sports facilities (tennis, volleyball, basketball, football, running), a swimming pool (entrance fee SDG 30) and basic food and drinks. Coptic club. German club. Nothing especially German, a basketball court, a garden in the shade of trees and a swimming pool. It also serves as a hotel. Indian club. Omdurman. The center of the capital's large Indian community social life, it organizes events for all important Indian festivals. A wander around Tuti island is highly recommended if you want to see green rather than the brown of Khartoum. If you are heading to Omdurman, a good way of unwinding after the chaos of the souq is to catch the ferry across to Tuti from Omdurman (except Fridays) or take the Tuti Suspension Bridge. Aim for around 17:00-18:00 to enjoy Tuti in the early evening. A Nile cruise, several boats moored by Tuti Bridge are available for cruises.

Cultural centers Centre Culturel Français. Downtown, Ali Dinar St. Offers French courses, Sudanese Arabic courses, a library and cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: . Goethe Institute. Downtown, Al Mak Nimir St. Offers German courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: or British Council. Downtown, Abu Sinn St. Offers English courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: or Iranian Cultural Center. Al Amarat, corner of Airport Rd and St 27.

In the evening Evening tea on Nile Avenue. With the extension of Nile Avenue to Manshia complete, the stretch of road between Mak Nimir and Manshia bridges has become the place to be of Khartoum's evening life. Innumerable tea ladies cater to the needs of the crowd enjoying the grass while watching the road and the river.

Concerts. The Sudanese music scene is active. Artists of the moment play live in clubs, mostly on weekend evenings. Look for the Arabic posters that dot the city or ask the locals. Weddings. It is common for Sudanese to hire star musicians to perform one or two of their favourite piece at wedding ceremonies. The footage of the performance usually ends up as an unofficial video clip on the Sudanese TV channels. Creative events. Khartoum youth and amateur scene can be spotted at one of the numerous and often changing cultural events. Whether Wapi (British Council), Makaan, Space or Khartoum Open Mic', they offer a scene for young musicians, hip hoppers, dancers, slammers and poets. Most accurate information is to be found on Facebook. Khartoum International Music Festival.

Cinemas. The last commercial cinemas closed in 2009 but the open air buildings of the Coliseum (Souk al Arabi), Halfaya and Watania(Khartoum North) or Watania (Omdurman) can still be spotted. Afra Mall movie theaters still shows movies, mainly Bollywood or Egyptian. Film festivals. The European Union and the Embassy of Venezuela organize yearly film festivals. The French Cultural Center offers free weekly projections as does occasionally the Goethe Institute.

Buy

Most shopping is still done in street markets or souqs. The souqs here are not as attractive those in other Middle Eastern countries but are still interesting enough for a glimpse of Sudanese economics. And you can certainly buy everything you need, including handicrafts if you are a tourist, from these markets. Upmarket, Khartoum has only one shopping mall with a supermarket, several shops and food outlets.

Khartoum Souq Arabi In the city centre, this is your classical chaotic market teeming with people. The market is divided in to several sections, each focussing on a certain product. There is even one block devoted to gold, although it certainly looks less sophisticated and organised than its counterpart in Dubai. However, this souq is a bit lacking in term of handicrafts and fresh foodstuff. You are better off going to Souq Omdurman (see below) for handicrafts.

Afra Mall. Afra is Khartoum's and Sudan's only mall but don't expect too much. Afra is already starting to lose it new shininess - it is more like a small neighbourhood mall rather than those you would find in Hong Kong, Singapore or Dubai. It has a supermarket and retail outlets selling clothes and other things you would expect to find in a mall. Afra Mall is certainly not a must-see attraction, nor a place to head for a night out.

Al-Amarat Centre. For visitors this is probably your best bet for tracking down imported foodstuffs and household items. Prices are high of course, but you are paying for convenience.

Souq Omdurman. Very large Sudanese market. Most of the commodities are cheaper and vegetables and fruits are fresher than Souq Arabi. You can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - its towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, at stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. It's not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also. There are many local buses between Souq arabi and here.

Saad Gishra. This is a covered market place; it is Bahri's main shopping market. Prices here can be a little higher than those in Souq Omdurman; however, it is much more easily navigable for tourists.

Eat

Khartoum has a good sprinkling of restaurants, with new ones popping up every couple of months – other than restaurants attached to hotels there is little quality eating to be had in Khartoum’s city centre. Amarat hosts the majority of the better eateries, although Ridyah and Khartoum 2 also have some places. Omdurman and Barhi have a light sprinkling of simple restaurants. All restaurants have about 15% government tax and 3-14% service charge.

Universal. Italian flavoured, offering pleasant al fresco dining, priced with the expat wallet in mind.

Amwaj Restaurant. Big, airy and spotless, and really good food. Extremely popular with locals and visitors. Menu offers shawarmas, kebabs, grilled chicken, lamb stews and others, all accompanied by bread, soup and salad. Delicious fruit juices and shakes too.

Royal Broast. Another popular place a few doors from Amwaj.

Laziz Delicious Restaurant. Nice place to eat in. They have another branch in Ryad area.

Afra Mall Chinese restaurant food court. Located on the first floor of Khartoum's only shopping mall.

Assaha Restaurant. Would be considered an excellent restaurant in any city, and a Jewel in Khartoum. Good atmosphere with professional and knowledgeable wait staff. They have lots on the menu including luncheons, light meals and full dinners. They charge 12% government tax and 14% service charge.

Al Bawadi Tourist Restaurant. A renowned table for spicy grilled chicken and broast.

Hadramawt Restaurant. Yemeni restaurant offering the traditional salta, fahsa, mandi, lahm hanith and fatah for dessert.

Habesha Ethiopian restaurant. Good atmosphere, good food and very affordable. The restaurant is on two floors (there is a pleasant internet cafe on the 3rd floor), upstairs is more lively with Ethiopian pop on the plasma screen. About SDG 25 each for a big meal and coffee. A good choice if you are looking for somewhere with music playing and a bit of atmosphere.

Salt 'n' Pepper. Only Pakistani restaurant in Sudan. Speciality in Pakistani spicy tasty dishes.

Papa Costa. In the center of Khartoum, and reasonably priced. Service charges are minimal, food is reasonably good, but service level is so-so. You can choose food from steak to pasta. They charge 3% service charge and 10% government tax.

Kandahar, souq Libya. At this restaurant you choose the meat that you want cooked (usually a choice between camel and lamb), you then hand over the meat to be cooked as part of your meal. Kandahar is one of the few places in Khartoum where you can find camel meat. It is located in Souq Libya in the peripheries of Omdurman.

Drink

It's best to prepare yourself to be alcohol-free for your stay: there are places serving 'special tea' dotted around and non-alcoholic beers are available, but in general it's more hassle than it's worth to track down alcohol during a short visit. For long-termers, however, the market does exist - via diplomatic bags and other routes... apparently.

Sleep

A 5% tourism tax and 15% VAT may well be added to your bill - Khartoum's hotels are inconsistent in telling you about these taxes in advance, and (especially for cheaper hotels) inconsistent in paying this money to the tax authorities. Ask if there are any hidden extras before booking.

Blue Nile Sailing Club. An alternative to Khartoum's hotels, on the river's southern bank just east of the confluence, the club often accommodates overlanders and accommodates tent camping on its grounds. The club is fenced, monitored, inexpensive and offers expansive river views. It is also home to a river gunboat that once belonged to Horatio Kitchener and now houses the club's offices.

Khartoum Youth Hostel. Opened in 2007 and part of Hostelling International this is the best option for non-camping travellers on a budget.

Downtown Hotel and Business Center. Good option for those who like old British city center which turned into multicultural hub of people from all around Africa doing business there. Downtown Hotel is situated in a big 5 store building right next Gold Market, Grand Mosque and major shopping center Waha. It's managed by British, Polish and Sudanese friends. They have coffee&restaurant on the groundfloor with green backyard. There are multiple activities like training and business center, Artists in Residence programs, design studio and other creative units.

Lisamin Safari Hotel. Opened in late 2007, this hotel is a welcome addition to Khartoum’s rather drab hotel stock. Wireless internet available for a fee.

Bougainvilla Guesthouse. Small 17-room hotel in the Riyadh suburb – the big attraction is the breezy roof terrace where excellent European breakfasts and dinners are served. Although the rooms themselves are nothing special, they are clean and have the essentials of a/c, wireless internet and satellite TV, although standard rooms involve sharing a bathroom. A favourite with visiting aid workers and other westerners.

Al Salam Rotana. Opened in mid 2007, this is the only hotel in Khartoum that offers international five-star standard. Nice big rooms, perfectly equipped. Pool, gym, restaurant and lobby bar, conference facilities and Wifi (fee).

Assaha Lebanese Village. A bit of a strange one this – based in an attractive, if slightly kitsch, dry stone palace, the Assaha Village combines a large restaurant, conference facilities and even a ‘museum’ with intimate, Middle Eastern themed bedrooms. Its part of a small chain with sister hotels in Beirut and Doha. Prices, however, are sky-high at SDG 360 for a single room and SDG 480 for a double.

Grand Holiday Villa. The hotel has undergone extensive renovation and many facilities have been updated to international standards. The swimming pool is among the largest in Sudan. Features: unlimited free WiFi, Nile Terrace Restaurant (water sprayers on year round), free breakfast. The restaurant serves continental cuisine and comes highly recommended.