Khabarovsk.
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Overview

Khabarovsk or Chabarovsk (Russian: Хаба́ровск, khah-BAH-ruhvsk) is a city on the Amur river in the Russian Far East, near the Chinese border. Often overlooked due to its proximity to Vladivostok, Khabarovsk could easily be a highlight in the long line of predominately dull cities along the Trans-Siberian Railway. But while most cities look their best when the sun is out, in only a few is the effect as profound as in Khabarovsk – attractive parks, beaches, outdoor beer tents with live music, and classic architecture await if the weather gods favour you. Even if you are unfortunate, it's not a loss to go indoors: the city also houses some of the best museums east of Moscow.

Understand

Overlooking the confluence of the Amur and Ussuri Rivers, Khabarovsk is the second largest city in the Russian Far East, approaching 600,000 residents and growing. It is also the capital of both Khabarovsk Krai and the Far Eastern Federal District. Unlike Vladivostok, the city has never been closed to foreigners, and retains a distinct international feel, rare for the Russian provincial centers – a feeling propped up by an increasing Asian presence with arrivals from Asian countries now numbering over a million each year. In turn, Asians come here to experience a piece of Europe close to home, with the fortunate effect that the city is spending huge swaths of money renovating the city, in which old classical buildings were spared much of the destructive effects of the 1917-23 civil war, to provide its visitors with just that feeling. From a European's perspective, Soviet city planning has unmistakably taken its toll, but it is still far more attractive than your average Siberian city.

The climate is temperate and monsoonal, with a cold, dry winter and a hot and humid summer. The average temperature for a full year is just 2°C, but covers over wide span of monthly averages ranging from a bone chilling −20°C in January to a quite warm +21°C average in July. The city sees an average of 686 mm precipitation in a year, but unfortunately the lions' share falls in the warm summer months. The number of sunny days per year is 70, which is higher than Moscow's 54. Climate-wise, end of May - early June or end of August - early September are the best time for a visit.

The lands near the confluence of the Ussury and the Amur, where today's Khabarovsk stands, have been populated for centuries by the indigenous Tungusic people. Chinese expeditions reached this area as early as the first half of the 15th century, and in the mid-17th century the Amur Valley became the scene of hostilities between the Russian Cossacks, trying to expand into the region, and the rising Manchu Qing Dynasty, bent on securing the region for itself. Nearly a century of skirmishes between the Chinese, Koreans and Cossacks followed, one of those involving Russian explorer Yerofey Khabarov, whose name the city later adapted. The Treaty of Nerchinsk (1689) brought the conflict to a close and made the area an undisputed part of the Chinese Qing Empire. According to French Jesuits mapping the Ussury and the Amur rivers in 1709, the future site of Khabarovsk was known to the Chinese as Yupi Dazi ("Fishskin Tartars").

In 1858, the area was ceded to Russia under the Treaty of Aigun. The Russians founded the military outpost of Khabarovka (Хаба́ровка), which subsequently became an important industrial centre for the region. The Russian Geographical Society then began founding libraries, theaters, and museums in the growing city. Since then, Khabarovsk's cultural life has flourished. Much of the local indigenous history has been well-preserved in the Regional Lore Museum and Natural History Museum and in places like near the Nanai settlement of Sikhachi-Alyan, where cliff drawings from more than 1,300 years ago can be found.

The Trans-Siberian first reached Khabarovsk from Vladivostok in 1897, while the complete railway to Moscow did not see completion until 1913. Three years later, the Khabarovsk Bridge across the Amur was completed, allowing Trans-Siberian trains to cross the river without using ferries. The city was occupied by the Japanese for much of the Russian Civil War, which may offer some explanation to the many old buildings still standing around the city center.

Get in

If you want to go to places upstream on the Amur river, the Meteor speedboats will often be your transport of choice, but only during the summer when the river is navigable. However, in 2008, the water level in the river was at a historic low, so that the Meteor traffic had to be stopped. If Meteor traffic functions normally, you can go some 1,000 km downstream to the Ul'chi municipal district (rayon), a region mostly inhabited by indigenous Ul'chi people.

Fuyuan – In spring and summer there are daily hydrofoil services to Fuyuan in northeastern China, departing from the ferry terminal facing the Amur river. Komsomolsk – If you are heading for the BAM line up north, an interesting option is to take a hydrofoil cruising up the Amur river to Komsomolsk (6 hours), and catch a train from there.

Get around

The best thing to start with is to walk around the center of the city. Have a nice walk from Lenin Square to the Amur River via the main street, Muravieva-Amurski. You will find all sorts of shops and places to eat.

By tram The city has a network of four tram lines (there is no line 3 or 4). The most useful section for visitors is the stretch of the network running from the main railway station along Amursky Boulevard, before making a left turn down Volochaevskaya St. (near the market), and crossing Muravyov-Amursky Street one block west of Lenina Square, it then continues south intersecting Lenina Street roughly at its halfway point, before a stop at the botanical gardens (Lines 1, 2 & 6). The remainder of the network mainly extends into the sleepy suburbs. Line 5 serves the North, Line 1 and 2 the South along Krasnorechenskaya St.

By bus The electric trolleybuses also has a few useful sections for visitors, Line 1 runs between the Airport and Komsomolskaya Square (River promenade, Museum cluster) along Karla Marksa and Mureava Amursky streets.

The regular bus number 1, is a useful circle line. It starts at the Railway station, turns down Seryshev street (a block north of Amursky Boulevard) until it reaches the river park at Lenin Stadium. Turns down Komsomolskaya Street (and square) and runs south until Lenina Street. It then runs the entire length of Lenina street before north at the City History Museum and returns to the train station.

Major destinations Airport 18, T1, T2, T4 Botanical Gardens' 9, 25, 29, 33, 54 City History Museum 1, 54, 56, 57, T5 Komsomolskaya Square 1, 9, 14, 19, 29, 34, 38, 55, 56, T1, T3 Lenina Square 14, 19, 21, 29, 34, 38, 55, 56, T1, T3 Railway Station 1, 6, 7, 11, 13, 20, 22, 24, 26, 34, 54, 57, T2, T5 Slavy (Glory) Square 1, 9, 29, 33, 34, 56

See

The Far Eastern Museums There is a fantastic cluster of top notch museums along Shevchenko Street, just behind the tall blue-domed Church of Theotokos on Komsomolskaya Square towards the river and stadium. Not only are the museums some of the best in the far east, they also make their home in some impressive century-old buildings dating back to before the revolution. After a visit, the nice river promenade is just a short walk away, so you can wash all that new found knowledge away with some pivos in good company.

Far East Regional Museum. One of the oldest museums in the Russian far east, laid out in 6 sections in an impressive 1894 red-brick building. For the most part it's leaps and bounds ahead of the region's other museums, and with nearly half a million artifacts in the collection, they can afford to be picky about what they display. The ethnographic section with displays of indigenous cultures from around the Amur is unusually informative, but the zoology section is also worth a look, stuffed animals galore! To top it off, it has been renovated, and they even have a few English captions here and there.

Far Eastern Art Museum. Established in the 1930s and now housed in the building of a former officers' club. They seem to take most pride in their collection of Far Eastern aboriginal art, but they also have a rare collection of ancient Russian religious icons and Japanese porcelain. In the classic exhibition they have a few painters you may have heard of like Titian and Garofalo, but also some lesser known Russian masters.

Far Eastern Military Museum. Another impressive building from the turn of the 20th century, this one was the state bank up until the 1930s. Weapons galore propped up by medals and other memorabilia. If you are not interested in these sort of things, you can probably give it a miss, but they have a few cool war propaganda posters from the Great Patriotic War and a luxury officers' railway carriage from the 1920s in the courtyard, if you need to entertain yourself for a while while any male company goes into boy mode.

Tucked away just across the next street behind the military museum, you also find the Archeology Museum on Turgeneva street.

Museum of Archaeology. Part of the regional museum but located in an attractive separate building which, before the October revolution got him, was owned by the owner of a local brewery. Finds from the dawn of man up until the middle ages. Their collection of ancient ceramics is interesting, and the Sikachi-Alyan petroglyphs and Sheremetyevsky inscription replicas are also worth a look.

Far Eastern Railway Museum. A small museum which houses a previously private collection of around 2000 original artifacts, documents, models and photographs telling about the history and construction of the Far Eastern Railway.

Fedotov Exposition Hall. Temporary exhibitions of professional painters, sculptures, designers and other artists from the far east. The exhibits changes monthly.

Geological Museum. Housed in a beautiful 19th-century building, which once belonged to a prominent local merchant family. True to its name, this museum has a huge collection of rocks and minerals – some even some from outer space, like a few moon fragments brought home to Earth by automatic probes and one of the world's largest iron meteorites which crashed into the Sikhot-Ailin mountains in the 1940s. If you are not into stones, you could check out the small section on tools and equipment related to prospecting in the region or the collection of prehistoric plant and animal fossils. Outside the museum there are a few large monoliths of minerals, ores and rocks.

Khabarovsk City History Museum. The newest museum in town: it was opened in 2004. A small museum which details the history of Khabarovsk from its inception up until today. Covering the pre-revolutionary period, the October Revolution and the civil war in Khabarovsk, the city during World War II, and up until the Perestroika and modern Khabarovsk. The collection is mainly made up of everyday items, photographs and documents from private donations.

The Arboretum. Founded in 1896 as an experimental laboratory, it was transformed into a 12-hectare (27-acre) botanical garden in the 1930s. It's a nice place for a stroll among the many trees, bushes and flowers, about 800 different kinds of them gathered from nearly every continent; some exotic medical plants also grow here.

Cathedral of the Transfiguration. Christianity is alive and well in Russia, as this golden domed church towering above Khabarovsk is evidence of. Only completed in 2004, at 83 meters it's the 3rd tallest church in all of Russia - inside it's not that impressive, just large. The monastery, or rather the Theological Seminary, right next to it is also worth a look a brief look from the outside. Opposite, facing the Amur is a war memorial "Вечный огонь" ("the eternal flame"), rather kitschy but has good Amur views. The whole thing is labeled as the Ploshchad Slavy or the Square of Glory.

Dynamo Park. A quite attractive park spreading over 30 hectares, immensely popular with locals on sunny days. The water ponds to the south are popular for splashing and cooling down. There are several nice, quirky statues cut from huge wooden logs dotted all over the park which can be interesting to trace down in a small treasure hunt for adults. There are also a handful of running amusements, cafés and beer gardens. Just across the street from the eastern entrance, Khabarovsk's local ice-hockey team battles it out in the premier Russian league in the Platinum arena.

Vsevolod Sysoyev Far Eastern Zoo. Opened in 2002, this smallish zoo have around 40 different species, mostly regional fauna like Ussuriysk bears and tigers and the Far Eastern Leopard. The zoo is named after local nature writer.

Utyos. The name means The Cliff in Russian, very appropriate as this monument is an unusual art nouveau building from the forties on top of a tall cliff dominating the waterfront, which used to be a lifeboat station. It has a large balcony with spectacular views of the Amur and beyond. Also find a statue of Muravyov Amursky on display, which just so happened to make it onto the 50 rouble note.

Park Severnyy. Another park/recreational area with ponds and its own orthodox church. It's probably not a do-or-die type of attraction but something pretty far down on the list. What might be even more fun is traveling west a few km to cross over the Amur River on the Amurskogo Mosta.

Do

In addition to these listings there are also a Drama Theatre and a Children's 'Theatre, but they are probably not of much interest unless you speak Russian. Nonetheless, the city has a fairly vibrant cultural life.

City Beach. Pictured on the right, the beach on the River Promenade just below the cathedral is hugely popular with pedestrians on warm summer days and packed with sunbathers — so much so that it's easy to forget you are over 300 km away from the nearest piece of coast. It is possible to take a quick dip, but stay very close to land as the current is strong, and keep in mind there are old world Chinese and Russian industries upstream. Usually there are some inflatable slides set up for kids.

Durminskoye Reserve. Home to the last Siberian Tigers left in the wild. A reserve created for the preservation of the Amur tiger population living in the area, as well as other predators and other animals.

Khabarovsk Philarmony. If the language of classic music is more understandable for you than the tongue of Russian artists, this is the place you might enjoy. The whole Far Eastern Orchestra and Organ performers in the downtown are all for your pleasure. The big hall of Philarmony is just the next door to the Museum of Arts and open every day.

Gaidara Children's Park. A small amusement park opposite the large Dynamo park to the north of the center. The amusements are mainly for kids, with a small roller-coaster, bouncy castles and swings, and a few cafés for eating. Most interesting if you have kids, but there is a gaming arcade at the north end with a bowling alley, slot machines and fusball tables for the more grown up.

Khabarovsk Circus. Khabarovsk Circus had a brand new home constructed a few years back, in an impressive building in Gagerin Park. There will usually be guest performances from all over Russia or even China, as well as from a range of circus animals — including of course, bears.

Theatre of Musical Comedy. The oldest theatre in Khabarovsk Krai performs classical and modern operettas as well as occasional comedies in a huge bombastic building in Dynamo park. The massive 900-seat hall is also the city's main concert venue.

Triada Pantomime Theatre. Established in the waning days of the Soviet Union, this institution has outlived communism, and is still going strong after 30 years. The name is from the Greek word for trinity, meant to signify the three purposes of Pantomime: to laugh, cry and excite, all done through simple entertaining shows that are often meant to convey a deeper philosophical idea. Besides pantomime shows, they also play comedic clown acts and traditional theatre. The hall seats around 90 people.

Platinum Arena. The major sports and concerts center, a training base of hockey team 'Amur'. Often hosts Russian and Western European music stars.

Ice Fantasy Festival. Annual ice sculpting competition that has been held in January every year since 2001. Attracts some of the sculptors from the much grander and more famous Harbin festival. Worth a look if you're in town.

Buy

The Vyborg Market. (Международный торговый центр 'Выборгский') on Vyborgskaya Street is a huge and very lively market, with not only local Russians but also a visible example of the proximity to China — many Chinese traders selling imported products of every variety under the sun, e.g. domestic appliances, toys, cutlery and clothing, from their home country. There is also a couple of huge indoor halls with locals selling fruits, vegetables and meat. It's well worth a stroll, even if you don't plan on buying anything.

The Central Department Store. 3 floors of high-end shopping in a nice old building, renovated inside out a couple of years back, but it's actually the oldest business in the city. Fashion, electronics, watches, perfumery and other stuff along those lines. Also has an ATM that takes international credit cards.

Hudozhestvennye Salony. Means "Art salon", all Russian handicrafts slightly cheaper than its next door neighbour. Good place to get the ritual Matreshka doll purchase over and done with, since they are good quality here, though certainly not cheap. Also has a good selection of jewelery and Khokhloma items — a traditional Russian wood painting handicraft, though if you're heading west, you might want to wait for Nizhny Novgorod where they originate. .

Tainy Remesla. Inside the impressive old city Duma building (see picture above) is probably the best place in town to buy souvenirs, but bring a pair of pants with deep pockets, because you'll need them to buy most of what you see in the shop; art works by the far east's aboriginal peoples, Khokhloma goods, art, jewelery, stone and amber handicrafts and even toys.

NK City. A large prestigious supermarket in the city's center located at the road junction offering a good deal of cheap food, brand clothes and electronic stuff with a 3D cinema on the 5th floor and a couple of small restaurants.

Eat

The local cuisine consists primarily of traditional Russian restaurants and different Asian-style places. Italian food is also common. However, there's a great variety of cheap fast-food outlets on the streets.

Chocolate. A stylish, modern looking cafe-like eatery with an international menu, cappuccino, and free wireless access.

Khlebomyas. Burgers and fries and coffee bar.

Russki Restaurant. All can be washed down with tea from the samovar.

Tablespoon. Pick items off a buffet line.

Golden Bird. McDonald's-style eatery.

Drink

Locals will happily teach you how to drink Russian-style. People are very friendly, and in general you will find lots of locals who would love to practice their English. Don't miss an offer to visit a Russian banya (sauna) somewhere outside the city.

For the most part you should avoid the pubs and bars if weather permits, and indulge in the many beer tents instead. The River Promenade (Набережная Хабаровска) below the large cathedral is a lively place in the summer months, open air cafes in large tents, dot the promenade along the river. Most bars play different styles of music, and there is usually live music going on in one of the tents. There is a young crowd, and some establishments stay open till very late. This is also the starting point for a host of river boats, taking the party-going crowd on short cruises down the river with loud music banging out of the speakers. Dynamo Park (Парк Динамо) also has some beergarten style watering holes along long benches beneath coloured lanterns and Russian schlagers blasting out the speakers.

Cabaret Saloon Harley-Davidson. Located in the historic center, this is not a biker's pub, but a full-fledged restaurant.

Crossroad. Dance and karaoke floors, selection of cocktails and hookah choices, snacks, middle-age crowd welcome, too.

Velikano. It's a bit Russian, with a lot of Russian pop and youngsters. Two dance floors and competent bartenders.

Bonifatsiy Bar. Kind of like going to the bar at the circus, given the theme. Also on the premises is another establishment called Pushkin Yard.

Shokoladnitsa at Komsomolskaya street, 78 08:00-24:00. All-Russian brand cafes offering a variety of coffee and chocolate drinks.

Rock-bar 'Garazh'. Stylish and cosy cafe with live sound, Russian-European food, coffee and theme parties.

Learn

The Pacific National University , formally a Polytechnic Institute, is now a full fledged university, with over 21.000 students enrolled. Has a single Masters programme in Computer Sciences in cooperation with a German university, which is taught in English. The Far Eastern State University of Humanities offers a summer course in Russian language in July as well as courses during the academic year. The Far-Eastern State Medical University is a major medical institution in Eastern Siberia. The Far-Eastern State University of Railways being one of the largest universities includes the course of Russian-Americam Programme. The Far-Eastern State Scientific Library is an old and beautiful Art-Nouveau building in the city's center and has American, German and Japanese centers. Japanese Center in Khabarovsk offers course of Japanese language as well as participation in business seminars

Sleep

No hostels and not many unrenovated Soviet rooms, so accommodation is pretty steep — on the other hand, the situation is not much different from the rest of Russia. If the situation is desperate and you have a valid ISIC card, you could try to see if the university will hook you up with a room in their dorms — though call ahead instead of showing up on the day. If not, rooms can go as low as if you look around and book well ahead of arrival.

Abricol Hotel. About a kilometer north(west) of the railway station on the outskirts of town, offers 28 modern rooms within a larger entertainment complex which also includes a restaurant, two bars, billiards, a bowling alley and a sauna/pool.

Ali Hotel. It is an up-scale choice with 24 rooms overlooking the city ponds. Has a swimming pool, casino and fitness facilities.

Amur Hotel. Classic building on Lenina street, though it lost some of it grand old-world charm when it was renovated in 2005, and the 78 rooms are for the most part very kitschy.

Intourist Hotel. 283 rooms divided into singles, doubles and triples, all have air condition and Sat-TV. Big, bombastic and Soviet in appearance, but at least the service has much improved since those days, though you may still find it lagging compared to Western European standards. Accepts major international credit cards.

Parus Business Center Hotel. Possibly the best located hotel in town, though the noise from the river promenade is reported to sometimes get disturbing for those of the 82 rooms which are facing the Amur river. Unusually for Russia parts of the hotel are located in a classic pre-soviet brick building, and the rooms are spotless in the new wing. On-site Bar, Spa/Sauna, Restaurant and conference/meeting facilities.

Boutique-Hotel “Khabarovsk City”. Boutique-hotel “Khabarovsk City” is located in the central part of the city not far from the Amur River. It is a modern beautiful building of 2008. There are 44 rooms of various categories for 69 guests: standard rooms, studios, and lux. Hotel facilities: restaurant-bar "Flowers" (Russian and European cuisine), conference hall, lobby bar, night bar «The place», business center, free wifi, beauty salon, parking lot, booking and delivery air/train tickets, taxi service, left-luggage office, laundry service, elevator.

Afalina Hotel. The Afalina Hotel is near the central railway station of Khabarovsk. It is a small pleasant hotel with friendly staff. Hotel building was built in 1994, and renovated in 2008. There are 26 rooms of European style in different categories. Every room has its own design. Hotel facilities: restaurant, bar, sauna, billard room, parking lot, laundry service, pet-friendly.