Kabul.
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Overview

Kabul is the capital and largest city of Afghanistan. A crowded metropolis pressed into a basin of the Hindu Kush mountains, its bazaars, battle-scarred buildings and traffic-choked streets bear the traces of an ancient trading city, rapid urban expansion, periods of cosmopolitan ambition, and nearly half a century of war. Since the Taliban returned to power in 2021, the front lines have receded and security has improved, but poverty, choking pollution and the oppressive government – one that has forced women and girls from much of public life – cast a heavy pall over the city. Yet Kabul is more than the rule imposed upon it. Millions of Kabulis carry on with lives shaped – but not wholly defined – by upheaval and repression.

Is Kabul a must-visit city? No. Can a visit be disentangled entirely from the Taliban government? Also no. But Kabul is not the Taliban, and travellers who come with open eyes will encounter a city and a people far more complicated than the regime that rules them. Even setting the Taliban aside, Kabul is a rough and hardscrabble city, best approached by experienced travellers or those travelling with government support.

Understand

History While the origin of Kabul is unknown, archaeological evidence shows settlement around the 6th century BCE and substantial defensive works dating from at least the 2nd century BCE. From the 1st century CE to the 8th century CE, Kabul and the surrounding basin formed an important center of Buddhism, although for much of this period Kabul was overshadowed by Kapisa, the principal settlement in the Kabul River basin until approximately the mid-7th century.

Throughout its early history, the Kabul region was controlled by numerous political powers, including the Achaemenid Persians, Alexander the Great and his successors, the Seleucid Empire, the Mauryan Empire, the Greco-Bactrian and Indo-Greek kingdoms, the Kushans, the Sasanians, and the Hephthalites. After about 660 CE, Kabul became the seat of the Turk Shahis and subsequently the Hindu Shahis, who resisted Muslim expansion.

Around 870, Kabul was finally conquered by the Muslim Saffarids, although permanent Muslim control was established only later under the Ghaznavids. The city subsequently passed through the hands of the Samanids, Ghaznavids, Ghurids and Khwarazmshahs before being destroyed by Mongol armies around 1220. It was later ruled by the Chagatai khans, Timurids, Mughals, Afsharids, Durranis and Barakzais. The famous Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta passed through Kabul in 1333, describing it as "formerly a vast town" that had been reduced to a village inhabited by people his account called "Afghans".

Under Tamerlane and his successors in the 14th and 15th centuries, Kabul gradually recovered from its destruction by the Mongols and developed into a regional center of trade. In 1504, the city was captured by the Timurid prince Babur, who later founded the Mughal Empire.

In 1747, Kabul came under control of the Durrani, or Afghan, Empire. In 1775, Kabul became the empire's capital, although the empire later fell into dynastic and tribal conflict. In 1839, British and Indian forces occupied Kabul and established a British-backed government there. They were very unpopular among the local population, who revolted in 1841. In January 1842, most of the roughly 16,000 British and Indian civilians and soldiers attempting to flee from Kabul to Jalalabad were killed or captured, a famous blunder known as the Massacre of Elphinstone's Army. The first Flashman novel is a fictionalized account of this. The British returned in 1878 during the 2nd Anglo-Afghan War and occupied Kabul in 1879; although they suffered serious losses, they ultimately achieved their political aims and withdrew.

In the early 20th century, the city's electricity supply was expanded and Darul Aman Palace was constructed as part of a planned government district. The 1930s to 1960s were a period of growth and modernization in Kabul. Kabul University was opened; roads were paved; modern shops, offices, and schools were opened; shopping centers and a cinema were opened; and Kabul Zoo opened. The city also saw a vibrant tourism industry appear, helped by the Istanbul–New Delhi "Hippie Trail", which passed through Kabul in the 1960s and 1970s.

The 1970s and 1980s brought a turn for the worse. The city saw two coups, in 1973 and 1978. The second coup was carried out by the Marxist PDPA and was followed a year later by a Soviet military intervention to support the PDPA government. From 1979 to 1989, the Soviet Union maintained its military headquarters in Kabul and supported the Afghan government. After the Soviets left, the government collapsed in 1992 and left rival factions to fight over the city, leaving tens of thousands dead and the city devastated. By 1994, much of the city was without electricity or water. In 1996, the political movement known as the Taliban captured the city, killing the former (pre-1992) president and imposing notoriously strict Islamic rule in the areas it controlled.

A US-led military force invaded Afghanistan in October 2001, bombing strategic installations throughout the city to rout the governing Taliban, who quickly fled the city. The city became the capital of the Afghan Transitional Authority and later of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. It saw many suicide bombings after 2001, with particularly deadly attacks occurring during the late 2010s. In late 2008, responsibility for the city's security was passed from the NATO-led ISAF to the Afghan National Police and the Afghan National Army. After 2001, billions of dollars in aid and foreign investment were used to improve the city. Most of the major roads were paved and improved, government buildings were extensively renovated, new hotels opened, the zoo was renovated, many museums reopened, and utilities were extensively reconstructed. Some modern-style tower blocks and a handful of glitzy shopping malls also appeared, while electricity and water supplies improved, although neither became entirely reliable.

In 2021, the Taliban recaptured the city after a campaign of about four months, overthrowing the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan and reestablishing the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan. This marked a significant shift, with the Taliban imposing notoriously strict Islamic governance leading to reduced foreign presence and restricted women's rights.

Since the Taliban's takeover, many development projects have been halted and internationally funded reconstruction efforts have slowed significantly, with limited progress on some major infrastructure projects. Economic constraints and Taliban restrictions have also sharply reduced private construction, although municipal road-building and other public works have since accelerated. That said, roads and other infrastructure in outlying areas remain in poor condition. Electricity and water supplies remain highly inconsistent, with electricity outages occurring several times daily as of 2026 and water supply being nearly as unreliable. On the positive side, the security situation in the capital has improved significantly, and as of 2026, the city is largely safe for foreign visitors – foreign women included – in strong contrast to the plight of Afghan women under the Taliban's rule.

Kabul's climate is greatly influenced by its location in a valley at 1,800 m (5,900 ft). Summers (Jun-Sep) are hot and dry, averaging from the high 20s to the mid-30s °C (80-95 °F) with next to no precipitation. Autumn (Oct-Nov) is temperate and sees very little precipitation. Winters (Dec-Mar) are cold and the time of year which sees the most precipitation (mostly snow, but also ice, freezing rain, and sleet on warmer days). January is the coldest month, averaging 4/-7 °C (39/19 °F). Spring (late Mar-early June) is temperate with rain tapering off by early May.

The city lies in a valley and some villages on the edge of the city are a few hundred meters higher and thus cooler in the summer and colder and snowier in the winters. In winter, heavy snowfall can disrupt roads leading to and from Kabul, most notoriously the highway north through the Salang Pass, which is periodically closed due to snow and avalanches.

Orientation Central Kabul straddles the Kabul River. The Old City, including Mandawi Bazaar, lies south of the river, while Shahr-e Naw (meaning New City) to the north is the principal traveller-oriented district, largely walkable with hotels and restaurants but also, sadly, numerous street children (see Stay safe). Wazir Akbar Khan, just east of Shahr-e Naw, is one of Kabul's wealthiest districts and another center for accommodation and dining, particularly at the higher end. Beyond the central city, Kabul sprawls into numerous outer districts. Hills funnel traffic onto a limited number of routes, so places that look close on a map can be slow to reach.

Get in

During daytime, you can get a taxi for cheaper (AFN 100–200) if you exit the airport and hail a taxi on the road outside the main gate. See Taxi scams for tips on dealing with Kabuli taxi drivers.

Departure When flying out you will probably end up in Car Park C, and will have to get the shuttle bus to the terminal building. Or you may even be dropped off at the airport gate and have to walk all the way in. When flying out expect multiple ticket, passport and baggage checks, so allow plenty of time before your flight.

International destinations include: Ariana Afghan Airlines – from Ankara, Delhi, Dubai, Istanbul, Jeddah, Mashhad, Moscow-Sheremetyevo, Tehran and Ürümqi. flydubai – from Dubai Iran Airtour – from Mashhad and Tehran Kam Air – from Delhi, Doha, Dubai, Islamabad, Istanbul, Jeddah, Mashhad, Riyadh, Tashkent and Tehran. Mahan Air – from Mashhad and Tehran. Turkish Airlines – from Istanbul Yazd Airways – from Tehran

Domestic destinations While the airport is not bad for a developing country, expect very basic conditions at other Afghan airports.

Ariana Afghan Airlines – from Herat, Kandahar and Mazar-e-Sharif. Kam Air – from Herat, Kandahar, Khost and Mazar-e-Sharif.

By car The highway from Kandahar runs via Ghazni and Qalat. Much of the roughly 500 km road is being rebuilt as of 2026. The journey takes around 8-11 hours. The highway from Mazar-e Sharif and the North via the Salang Pass may close during wintertime due to snow and avalanches. A substantial section to the south of the Salang Tunnel is unpaved as of 2026 and makes for slow going. The highway is usually clogged with truck traffic. The highway from Jalalabad takes 2-3 hours. By this road you can come all the way from Torkham border (Khyber Pass) with Pakistan. From Bamiyan it takes 4-6 bumpy hours.

By bus Private bus operators serve some destinations in full-size coaches. Coaches from reputable companies are reasonably modern and comfortable, although rather slow compared to shared taxis.

Minibuses and shared taxis arrive and depart from six official locations around the city. Shared taxis and most minibuses leave when full rather than on fixed schedules. Shared taxis have no particular appearance of their own – they look the same as city taxis (i.e. turquoise).

You may be asked if you want a "special taxi". This means you pay for the entire taxi instead of sharing it with strangers. Drivers are usually happy to give a discount if it means they can depart sooner instead of having to wait for additional passengers. You can usually also buy extra seats (or an entire backseat) to give yourself extra room in a shared taxi.

Get around

Travel permits As of 2026, travel to any province in Afghanistan (including Kabul) requires a permit. In Kabul, these can be obtained at the on Shash Darak Road for AFN 1000 each.

By bus The Millie Bus (Afghanistan's government-run bus service) operates routes in Kabul, but services are unreliable, and many buses are old. Taxis are the far easier option for getting around the city.

If you don't negotiate hard, or if you take the first taxi you find, expect to pay about double these prices as a foreigner. Some drivers speak basic English, but they may charge more and may be hard to find other than near major hotels or the airport. After dark, taxis are scarce, so keep trusted taxi contacts as a backup.

In 2023, the Taliban-run traffic authority re-registered all taxi drivers in Afghanistan to reduce kidnappings and crimes involving unlicensed taxis. (As part of this change, all licensed taxis in the country were repainted from yellow to turquoise.) The initiative was deemed a success: Kabul police claimed that kidnappings had fallen "nearly to zero". Nowadays, being overcharged is your biggest threat. See Taxi scams below for tips on how to avoid being overcharged by taxi drivers in Kabul.

Although there are no legal restrictions on foreigners as of 2026, taxi drivers may refuse to pick up women if they are not wearing a veil or a face covering, or if they are travelling without a male companion, as these rules apply to Afghan women. Aside from the veil, however, these rules are regularly ignored. Afghan women must sit in the back seat.

There are no ride-hailing services in Kabul as of 2026.

Car rentals are limited, and driving yourself is discouraged due to heavy traffic and poor road conditions. The frequent checkpoints in the city can be an annoyance. Afghanistan drives on the right side, although right-hand-drive cars are almost as common as left-hand-drive cars.

By foot Central Kabul is compact, making walking viable in spring and fall. Summers are hot and dusty, while winters bring snow and mud. Pavements are scarce, and crossing roads requires caution.

See

Despite its long history, Kabul is rather short on historical sights. Centuries of warfare and decades of urban sprawl have taken their toll. Most contemporary attractions are disappointingly lackluster, poorly maintained, and surprisingly expensive. The city is more compelling around Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque and the Mandawi Bazaar, offering a glimpse of old Kabul amid a maze of crowded lanes and bustling markets.

Bagh-e Babur. The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. Historically, the gardens have been visited by Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. There is a swimming pool, a small mosque for prayers and a small museum among other things.

Bagh-e Bala. Built in the late 19th century, it served as a summer palace for Amir Abdur Rahman. Today, much of the original interior has been preserved, and the area around the palace has become a large park. Under renovation as of 2026.

British Cemetery. Where foreigners are buried in Kabul. There are also memorial plaques commemorating those ISAF forces killed. Closed and padlocked as of 2026.

Darul Aman Palace. Built as King Amanullah's Palace in the 1920s, it has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. By 2019, restoration works had been largely completed on the palace, which suffered massive damage during the 1990s civil war.

Tajbeg Palace. Not to be confused with Darul Aman, this palace was also built in the 1920 built to house the Royal family.

Kabul Zoo. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals, albeit in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main donors of animals in the zoo, but after the death of a few animals to disease and malnutrition, China has announced that there will be no donations until living conditions improve.

Lake Qargha. Described as Kabul's lake district.

Mausoleum of Nadir Shah and Zahir Shah. This is the site where King Nadir Shah and his son, Zahir Shah, are buried. Restored in 2012 after being damaged during the wars.

Bala Hissar. Ancient fortress first constructed in the 5th century AD. As of 2026, it is closed to visitors.

Old City Wall. Walking along the city wall offers rewarding views over the city. The wall is still in pretty good condition, running west-east from Babur Gardens over to Bala Hissar (about 3 km in distance). Start from Babur Gardens because you may not find the wall if starting from Bala Hissar fort. Ask staff at Babur Gardens for directions and security advice – you may want to walk along the wall and then turn back because, according to locals, the mountains are not safe.

TV Mount. A hill topped with television masts that offers great views of the city.

National Museum of Afghanistan. The National Museum of Afghanistan once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 1990s during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auctions. The museum is open once again, with far more modest, but still impressive, displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts.

National Gallery of Afghanistan. A beautiful gallery in a charming old-Kabul house that has been carefully restored. The collection used to have 820 paintings and portraits but 50% have been looted or destroyed; the director said the Taliban destroyed 210 portraits. Most of the collection is of European and Afghan landscapes and portraits of famous Afghan writers and kings and a portrait of the French writer Victor Hugo. Well worth making the effort to see. The Sultani Gallery is attached, but the opening hours are a mystery.

National Archives of Afghanistan. The National Archive contains numerous historic documents, with some on display in a small museum.

Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque. Historic mosque built during the reign of Amanullah Khan in the 1920s. Its Italian decorative stucco makes it quite unique compared to other mosques in the region.

Id Gah Mosque. Second largest mosque in Kabul but considered the cardinal mosque in Afghanistan. Up to a million people gathers here during Eid prayers. The mosque has been the scene of festivals and ceremonies and was the site where Amanullah Khan announced Afghanistan's independence on August 19th, 1919.

Sakhi Shrine. Decorated with glazed tiles in a neo-Safavid Persian style, the building bears many inscriptions, including dedicatory texts, Qurʾanic excerpts, prayers, Hadith, and poetry. It is believed that the shrine marks the spot where the cloak of Muhammad was kept on its way to its present location in the Shrine of the Cloak in Kandahar.

The Mandawi Bazaar (see Buy below) has a couple of unique markets tucked away amongst the chaos. You (hopefully) won't be buying anything here, but they might be of interest from a dark tourism perspective.

Gun market. Guns, guns and more guns. Mostly rifles (and sewing machines, weirdly). Don't be shy – the dealers are happy to let you pose with the guns and take photos.

Bird market. A centuries-old alleyway lined with cages filled with songbirds, fighting birds, and the occasional sickly bunny. Branching corridors leading to dilapidated courtyards where chickens are slaughtered by hand with a quick twist of the neck. Not for animal lovers nor the fainthearted.

Do

Kabul Golf Club. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25-year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude".

Ariana Cinema. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster.

Amani High School sports field. Open to the public on Tuesday afternoons and Fridays: football (soccer) with local Afghan guys, frisbee (with a collection of expats) and a running track in comparatively green and pleasant surroundings.

Ghazi Stadium. Home of the Afghan football team. Just past the stadium is the mine museum as well as a road up the hill where you will find hundreds of Afghan men and boys flying kites on holidays.

Kabul National Cricket Stadium. Home of the Afghan cricket team.

Buy

ATMs and banking services are gradually expanding.

Afghanistan International Bank (AIB). Has many branches and ATMs around Kabul. ATMs should work with foreign cards, although you might want to say a quick prayer to Allah beforehand. They dispense Afghani only and the fee is a whopping 7% of your withdrawal amount.

MoneyGram. Has many branches across the city.

Western Union. Has many branches across the city.

Mandawi Bazaar. Sprawling and chaotic, Mandawi Bazaar is Kabul's oldest and largest commercial district. A dense network of streets, warehouses and wholesale markets, you can find almost anything here, and cheap. Different sections specialize in different products. Expect crowded alleys, porters moving goods, shopkeepers hawking their wares, sacks of produce, old commercial buildings, and heavy pedestrian traffic. Wear closed-toed shoes or don't look down.

Lycee Maryam Bazaar. More modern than Mandawi Bazaar. A dense concentration of shops selling clothing, shoes, cosmetics, household goods and consumer products.

Gulbahar Business Center. One of the larger indoor shopping malls in Kabul.

Kabul City Center. Has some very smart shops.

New Khairkhwa Market. Another large indoor shopping mall.

Majid Mall. Yet another large shopping mall. There are currency exchange kiosks outside the front of the mall.

Roshan Plaza. Has some quite respectable clothes shops.

ABC Super Market. Sells many types of foreign food and household products. It has free delivery.

Afghan Spinneys Supermarket. Sells many types of foreign food and household products.

Al-Wahed Market. Sells local and foreign food products, particularly Iranian and Pakistani goods.

Finest Superstore. Sells many types of foreign food and household products.

Eat

Food is a definite bright spot of Kabul, as it is cheap, delicious, and safe – except for street food, which is only cheap and delicious. Best not to risk the latter unless you've lived in Afghanistan a while. Restaurants open and close with surprising frequency, so it is a good idea to check whether a place is still operating before heading out. Most restaurant menus are in Dari; take a photo of the menu and ask an AI chatbot to explain it to you.

Andkhoi Bastan Turkmen Restaurant. Offers traditional food.

Ansari Kunduz Kabab. Offers traditional food.

Biryani House. The special chicken biryani is excellent.

Bolani. Offers bolanis only (Afghan stuffed flatbread).

Buffalo Kings. Fast food, English menu.

NFC Restaurant. The food is excellent quality.

Marhaba Restaurant. The food is average, but if you pay 100 Afs you can eat inside a former Kam Air MD-87 airliner, which is perched on the restaurant roof.

Mezban Restaurant. Fast food, English menu.

Sufi Mahal Restaurant. Serves traditional Afghan food.

Barg Continental Restaurant. Has two branches and provides cuisines of various countries.

Bukhara Restaurant. It has several branches, one of which is in Kart-e Char neighborhood.

Café Zarnegar. Tasty high-end international food and nice atmosphere, one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Their large buffet is probably the best in the country.

Istanbul Family Restaurant. Turkish Restaurant.

Pamir Restaurant. Offers excellent and cheap buffet.

The Cafeteria. Has another location in Kart-e Char neighborhood.

Drink

Afghanistan is a tea country, and Afghans drink enormous amounts of it, especially green tea (chay-e sabz) and black tea (chay-e siyah). Traditional chaikhanas are the analogue to cafés in the Arab world. However, much of Kabul’s traditional urban fabric was badly damaged during decades of war, and the city’s subsequent rapid and chaotic expansion contributed to the decline of its traditional tea-house culture. Today, Kabul lacks a conspicuous chaikhana scene, although traditional tea houses can still be found around the Mandawi Bazaar and elsewhere in the old commercial center.

Bear in mind that chaikhanas have traditionally been overwhelmingly male spaces, and this convention has been reinforced by the Taliban’s institutionalized misogyny, so female travellers may be ushered to a separate room, simply raise eyebrows, or occasionally be refused admission altogether.

Coffee Coffee proliferated during the Islamic Republic of 2004-2021, catering largely to young urbanites and expats, but the scene has contracted considerably since the Taliban takeover.

Slice Bakery. Has surprisingly good coffee.

Alcohol It ain't happening. Under the Taliban, Kabul is completely dry.

Sleep

Kabul has a range of hotels and guesthouses. Guesthouses, often large Pakistani-style mansions, are common in Wazir Akbar Khan and Shar-e Naw, and may offer better value than hotels.

As of 2026, city electricity is intermittent and city water may be off or intermittent for days at a time. If these utilities are essential for you, it is worth asking your accommodation if they have contingency systems (generators, water tanks, etc.).

Afghania Guest House. Has a lovely garden and a delicious breakfast. Air conditioning. Hot water questionable. Popular with backpackers.

Shahr Guest House. Reasonably clean, shared bathrooms, friendly manager (Bashir) speaks English. Most rooms have cable TV and a fan.

Khyber Hotel. Nice hotel in the center and safest part of Kabul, helpful English speaking staff. Serves rich breakfast.

Golden Star Hotel. Clean and modern 4-star hotel, with restaurant, conference hall, a small gym, and high speed Internet in each room.

Kabul Grand Hotel. One of the best in the city, clean and modern 5-star hotel with three great restaurants.

Kabul Intercontinental Hotel. Another 5-star hotel with nice restaurants and a swimming pool.

Kabul Taj Hotel. Another 5-star hotel with nice restaurants and a swimming pool.

Safi Landmark Hotel. Large conference hall, restaurant, sauna, Jacuzzi and gym area, apartments also available.