Izmir.
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Overview

İzmir is a port on the Central Aegean coast of Turkey, known in antiquity as Smyrna. It's the country's third-largest city, with a population of 3.12 million in 2024.

Understand

There are lots of little coves and harbours along Turkey's Aegean coast, but ancient Smyrna stood at the head of a broad inlet sheltered from winter storms, with a fertile hinterland and good inland trade routes. It suffered earthquakes and warfare, but didn't silt up and could accommodate large vessels. Thus it outgrew other ports and is now the modern bustling city of Izmir.

This Smyrna was 5 km north of the present centre, in what is now the suburb of Bayraklı, and founded about 3000 BC by the Trojans. In folklore it was the birthplace of Homer, the 8th century BC author of the Odyssey, which describes a war between Greeks and Trojans 500 years earlier. No-one really knows where Homer lived, but a major harbour city is as good a guess as any. By his day Smyrna was settled by the Aeolians from mainland Greece, who were superseded by another Greek tribe the Ionians. The Lydians destroyed the city around 600 BC before a recovery under Alexander the Great from 334 BC.

Alexander’s successors re-built Smyrna on and below Mount Pagos, nowadays Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was wrecked by an earthquake in 178 AD but again rebuilt into a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving city and a huge trading centre, in spite of frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with a majority of Greek Orthodox plus many Jews, Armenians, Muslims, Italians and French, each injecting their own culture, language and cuisine.

The battlefronts of World War I lay elsewhere in Turkey, and the city remained multicultural. This was not for want of trying by the Ottoman rulers, who in 1915 set about a systematic extermination of the minorities, and the word "genocide" was first coined to describe this. Meanwhile the Allies promised control over Smyrna both to Italy and to Greece as a reward for joining their side. When the guns fell silent and the Ottomans were defeated, it was Greece that had control over a large swathe of territory along the Aegean coast. But Greece aspired to much more, and marched on Ankara; they got within 100 km before being checked then repulsed by the Turks under Kemal Atatürk, in what became the War of Turkish Independence. In the process of retreating, Greek forces committed some terrible atrocities, including the wholesale murder of Muslim villages on their way. Turkish forces took Izmir on 9 September 1922 and this is celebrated as the date of the city's independence. Ethnic strife caused the torching of the city, known as 'Burning of Smyrna', and on the 13th this escalated into a huge fire that claimed over 100,000 lives and destroyed the most of the Christian quarters of the city while inflicting some damage to Muslim and Jewish parts as well.

The new reality on the ground necessitated a new peace deal, and the 1923 Treaty of Lausanne restored the mainland including Smyrna to Turkey, while Greece retained most of the islands. There was compulsory re-settlement of minorities, so the Greeks were deported to Greece, while Turks in Greece (especially around Thessaloniki, Atatürk's own birthplace) were deported to Turkey. Surviving Armenians fled to Beirut and Egypt. This ended the multicultural nature of the city and of the whole country.

Izmir has a subtropical Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot and rainless yet humid, so July and August highs of 30-35°C feel more like 40°C.

Winters are mild to cool, around 12-16°C with occasional downpours. Freezing snaps occur on clear, windless nights but without snowfall, and occasional snow flurries don't linger.

Spring and fall are warm and pleasant and generally the best time to visit. Beach holidays are best in fall, as the sea temperature lags a month or so behind the land, and is a balmy 20°C in September and October.

Get in

To town: İzban suburban trains run every 10 mins to Alsancak Station north of city centre. Change at Hilal for the metro downtown - this station and its surroundings are messy and not easy to navigate. You need an İzmirimkart (below) for the train and subway. ESHOT bus 202 runs hourly round the clock to Republic Square, taking most of an hour. You need the İzmirimkart to ride it. Bus 200 runs north to Mavişehir, Bus 204 runs to Bornova metro station, and Bus 206 goes to Şirinyer Aktarma in the southern district of Buca.

Izmir is not yet on Turkey's high-speed YHT network, so trains are a ponderous overnight affair, when daytime buses cover the distance in half the time. A high-speed railway is under construction and might open by 2027, though 2207 seems just as likely. Until then, the main services (all daily) are:

İzmir Mavi ("Izmir Blue Train"), 14 hrs overnight from Ankara via Eskişehir (which has YHT trains, but not at night) and Kütahya, departing around 18:00. Konya Mavi ("Konya Blue Train"), 12 hrs overnight from Konya (which has YHT trains, and connections for Adana and Antalya), via Afyon and Manisa, departing around 19:30. Most coaches have seats only and sleepers may be out of supply for the nearest dates. Ege Ekspressi, 9½ hours daily from Kutahya via Tavsanli, Balıkesir, Soma, Akhisar and Manisa, departing around 09:30 and returning north at 06:30. Göller Ekspresi ("Lakes Express"), 8 hrs overnight from Isparta via Denizli (for Pamukkale), Nazilli, Aydin and Selcuk (for Ephesus and Kuşadası), departing around 22:00. No sleepers available. 6 Eylül Ekspresi ("6th of September Express"), 6½ hr daily from Bandırma (with ferries from Istanbul) via Balıkesir and Soma, departing around 08:00.

Buy tickets at the station, or in theory online, but the TCDD website has been broken for many months.

"We then sailed on up the narrow strait with wailing. For on one side lay Scylla and on the other divine Charybdis terribly sucked down the salt water of the sea." - Homer's Odyssey Book 12 Line 234 - Sail close to Scylla, she devours six of your crew for sure but the rest get through. Charybdis may let you through or suck down the entire ship. - Try for a middle way you're in peril from both. Which do you choose?

As of 2024 there are no ferries to Izmir beyond local services round the bay; no blame attaches to Scylla or Charybdis. See Çeşme#By boat for the ferry from Chios.

They may call on the way at Gebze, Bursa, Balıkesir and Manisa.

From Ankara buses also run hourly, taking 8 hours via Afyon, Uşak and Salihli (for Sardis). From Adana takes 14 hours via Konya.

Bus lines include Metro Turizm, Pamukkale and Flixbus.

By road From Istanbul follow O-5 toll motorway all the way. It's 480 km, say 5½ hours allowing for traffic at each end.

From Ankara is 590 km, eight hours along E96 via Afyon and Uşak.

Get around

On foot You can explore Izmir's inner city by walking.

ESHOT is the city transport combine. Its bus routes span this region, all the way for instance to Bergama.

İzmirim Kart is the contactless smart card used for all modes of public transport, available from multiple locations including the airport, ferry piers, and railway and metro stations. Each use is valid for 90 min, including one interchange on tram, train and metro but not buses.

IZBAN railway (shown in green) runs north-south: South Line runs from Tepeköy (for Torbali) in the south via the airport and Menderes town to Hilal (for Metro) and Alsancak (for trams, city ferries and the North Line). South Line Extension runs from Tepeköy to Selçuk, for Ephesus. North Line runs from Alsancak to Turan, Mavişehir (for trams), Çiğli, Menemen and Aliağa (for connections to Foça and Bergama).

on Şehitler Cd is terminus for the IZBAN railway, and has trams. No Metro or mainline trains run here.

Metro (shown in blue) runs east-west, from Bornova to the east via Halkapinar interchange (for trams and North Line), Hilal (for South Line), Basmane (for mainline trains) and Konak to Fahrettin Altay (for Göztepe and Balçova town).

Trams (shown in red) have two separate loops: City centre and south shore: from Halkapinar interchange to Alsancak, Konak, Göztepe and Fahrettin Altay. North shore: from Alaybay to Bostanli, Atakent and Mavişehir.

All three rail systems have extensions under construction or in planning.

You can use a bank card for the trams and metro, it will take a little time after you swipe but eventually will show four green lights and let you through. However, an Izmirim kart or individual tickets are required to use the IZBAN.

Izdeniz Ferries criss-cross the city inlet, a cheap, fast and pleasant form of transport.

Turkish taxis are not allowed to go outside province they are registered at. Meaning an Izmir-registered taxi (registration starting in 35) cannot go beyond Izmir provincial boundaries.

See

is the city's main square and gives its name to the central district. Konak means a mansion, and the provincial governor's mansion stood here. The clocktower (Saat Kulesi), erected in 1901, was one of dozens across the country marking 25 years of the reign of Abdul Hamid II (1842-1918). Neither clocktower nor Hamid fared well in later years, but at least the clocktower has been repeatedly restored, while the Ottoman Empire decayed into "the sick man of Europe". Hamid was deposed in 1909 to spent his last years under house arrest, with no escape from the recriminations of his wives and consorts, who numbered almost as many as his commemorative clocktowers. Konak Mosque is a dinky little mosque within the square. It's octagonal, built in 1755 and decorated with Kütahya tiles, with a single entrance for both men and women. was built in 1905. It's named for the fellow who endowed it, an Islamic judge.

Izmir Archaeological Museum. Displays a large collection of finds from Smyrna and other Ionian cities, mostly Roman. There's also a numismatic section with ancient coins and jewellery.

Toy Museum is at Birleşmiş Milletler Cd 8, 100 m west of the Archaeological Museum. It's open Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00.

Asansör. This lift was constructed in 1907 by Nesim Levi Bayrakoğlu, a Jewish businessman, to carry people and goods between Karataş waterfront and the properties on the hill. It has two cars each taking about ten people on a 58 m lift, and originally was water-powered; from 1985 both are electric. The restaurant at the top has a bird-eye view of Izmir. The street at its base is also known as Darío Moreno Sk for the singer who once lived there, David Arugete (1921-1968). It's tragic that, having dwelt so long by a free lift, he died young in a strop when he came late to an airport boarding gate and was denied boarding.

was built in the 1590s and is a striking example of Islamic architecture. Şadırvanaltı Mosque 100 m east on 892nd Sk was built in 1636. Başdurak Mosque was built in 1652. It's on 873rd Sk within Kemeraltı Bazaar. Kemeraltı Mosque on the west side of the Bazaar was built in 1671. Bazaars: see "Buy" for Kemeraltı and Kızlarağası Hanı next to Hisar Mosque.

Smyrna Agora. Ruins of the marketplace of Hellenistic and Roman Smyrna.

Women's Museum displays the lives and achievements of Anatolian women. It's at 1298th Sk 14 near Basmane station, open Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00, free. Atatürk Monument is the centrepiece of Cumhuriyet Meydanı, Republic Square, in front of the Swissôtel. It was erected in 1932; the great man lived to 1938. "Orduların, ilk hedefiniz Akdeniz'dir. İleri!" are his stirring words on the base: “Armies, your first target is the Mediterranean Sea. Forward!”. With only 60 m further to go, this is an easier objective than when he uttered those words in 1922, with the Greeks at the zenith of their advance and the backs of the Turks against the threshold of Ankara.

Atatürk Museum. Neo-classical mansion with rooms used by Atatürk.

Mask Museum displays 50 masks from around the world. It's at 1448th Sk 22, a block east of Atatürk Museum, open Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00, free.

History and Art Museum. Mostly Hellenistic statues, ceramics and coins.

Railway Museum. Exhibits of Turkish railways; you'll find the door locked; just ring to be let in. Parts of the network are fast and modern, but TCDD the state railway company itself belongs in a museum.

Alsancak (also called Punta or Reşadiye) is the district west of the History Museum and Alsancak Station, a grid of small streets with lots of cafes and bars in old Greek houses.

Radio and Democracy Museum. Showing the days when public information was gathered by clustering around the radio.

Church of St Vukolos. Former Greek Orthodox church, now used as a cultural centre.

Kadifekale. Around 330 BC during the reign of Alexander the Great, the population moved off the cramped site now known as "Old Smyrna", to fortify this hilltop. The present walls are medieval and have mostly obliterated earlier structures, though you can still see the Roman cisterns that supplied the city's water.

Ancient Smyrna. The ruins of the very first Smyrna.

Teleferik. Built in 1977, this gondola lifts you 423 m up the hill just south. There are restaurants, cafes and gift shops at the top.

Izmir Bird Paradise. Birdwatching park in the salt marshes of Gediz Delta, one of Turkey's largest coastal wetlands. It's partly artificial, as the Gediz was diverted here to reduce silting of the port. Over 250 bird species, most popular are the flamingos. You have to leave your car at the parking lot, bring a bike if you want to explore further in.

Izmir Zoo is next to the bird reserve, open daily 09:00-18:30.

Key Museum. Large collection of antique cars and motorbikes.

Do

"I know the blasphemy of them that say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan." - Smryna was one of the Seven Churches of Asia, and in Revelation 2, St John of Patmos flays them all for back-sliding and laxity. Kordon is what everyone calls the waterfront promenade of Atatürk Cd. It's lined by tall apartments and palm trees on one side and the Aegean on the other, with a broad strip of lawn and a cobbled street between, where you can have a 19th-century fayton (horse-drawn carriage) ride. Beaches: not downtown, which has a pleasant waterfront but not a beach. You need to get 20+ km west to the suburb of Güzelbahçe, and the coast improves further west towards Çeşme. North of the city is muddy lagoons or inaccessible cliffs, with the nearest resort at Foça. Football: Göztepe SK were promoted in 2024 and now play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier. Their home ground Gürsel Aksel Stadium (capacity 19,700 all-seater) is 5 km west of city centre. Altay SK were relegated in 2024 and now play in TFF Second League, the third tier. Their Mustafa Denizli Stadium (capacity 15,000) is just east of Alsancak Station; it was rebuilt in 2021 when earthquake damage left the original of 1929 teetering. Izmirspor were founded in 1923 and have played in the top tier but now languish down in the amateur leagues. Lunapark is a funfair within Kültürpark, open M-F 12:00-18:00, Sa Su 11:00-20:00. Izmir Jazz Festival is in March. Izmir Marathon is held in April.

Buy

Kemeraltı is the atmospheric main bazaar, in the streets east of Konak Square. It's open M-Sa 08:00-19:00. Kızlarağası Han next to Hisar Mosque was a caravanserai built in 1745 and now housing shops. AVM is the Turkish term for a shopping centre - alışveriş merkezi. Those in city centre include Konak Pier, and Kemer Plaza and Hesapli within Kemeraltı.

Eat

Local specialties: Fish, typically grilled sea bass. Kumru is a warm sandwich, made with a special bread with sesame seeds, Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and tomatoes; vegetarian versions are available. Find it at street stalls, best early in the day still warm from the bakery. One is a snack, two are a filling meal. Tulum Peyniri is a cheese made in the Izmir region. Boyoz, another local pastry but much oilier than kumru, to eat with a cup of tea for breakfast.

Budget The alleys off Talatpaşa Blv east of the Atatürk Museum are lined with budget eating places.

Sultan Yemek Evi. Reliable budget eatery.

Alsancak Pide. Simple cafe for pizza and similar.

Köfteci Okan. Kofta restaurant, no better than okay.

Çarşı Balık. Good place for fish and shellfish.

Piraye Ev Yemekleri. Friendly inexpensive cafe with home-style cooking.

Köfteci Murat. Serving good filling meatballs.

Komposto. Bright modern place for Turkish and Aegean cuisine, with vegetarian options.

Ayşa. Good Bosnian / Montenegro cuisine with veggie options.

Yaşam Vegan Cafe. Good vegan choices in this meat-oriented city.

Manisalı Birtat. The specialty is Manisa kebab, lightly seasoned skewered meat drenched in yoghurt and tomato sauce.

Topçu. Reliable restaurant for Turkish and Med food. Try their Çöp Şiş kebab, which translates as "made of any old rubbish".

Splurge Veli Usta have two seafood restaurants 100 m north of Cumhuriyet Meydanı: at Cumhuriyet Blv 131 and at Atatürk Cd 182, both open daily 12:00-23:00. When they're good they're very good, but at these prices they need to be more consistent.

Tavacı Recep Usta Alsancak. Pricey but quality food.

Yengec next to Alsancak pier is an overpriced tourist trap.

BigChefs Alsancak. Upscale dining on the waterfront.

Soirée. Pleasant fish restaurant on Konak pier.

Drink

Kordon, Alsancak's waterfront, is an attractive place in nice weather. 1448th Sk in Alsancak has end-to-end bars and pubs, with outdoor seating. Nightlife is found on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cd and Gazi Kadinlar Cd, especially at weekends.

Sleep

Budget Alican is a basic place north side of Basmane station, 1268th Sk 12. Imperial Otel is at 1296th Sk 54, 50 m SW of Basmane station. It's tatty but clean.

Hotel Baylan. Basic central place, okay for a short stay.

Hotel Oba is at 1369th Sk 27, 200 m west of Basmane station. It's basic but cleaner than most.

Shantihome Hostel. Bright friendly hostel, central for sights.

Titan House Hostel. Friendly central hostel.

Mithras Hotel. Clean and comfy, some street noise.

Piano Hotel Izmir. Clean and central, tiny rooms with poor sound-proofing and a cigarette pong.

Ibis Izmir Alsancak. Pleasant budget chain, rooms are small but clean.

Karaca Hotel. Acceptable for what you pay.

Doubletree by Hilton. Small rooms, usually clean, central.

Renaissance Izmir Hotel. A futuristic-looking hotel 500 m from the waterfront. Comfy and friendly, main drawback is the tobacco stench.

Lagora Old Town Hotel. Charming place in the bazaar, but live music in the atrium dins in all the rooms until midnight.

Izmir Palas Otel. Boxy seafront hotel, cigarette smell and street noise.

Ege Palas. Clean and efficient, great views from the upper rooms.

Key Hotel. Slick waterfront hotel with restaurant and gym.

Swissotel Buyuk Efes Izmir. Great scores for comfort, service and location at this swish waterfront hotel.

Wyndham Grand Izmir Ozdilek. Smart clean business hotel, some rooms have sea view. 10 km west of town so you need your own wheels or take taxis.