Isla del Tigre.
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Overview

Isla del Tigre is an island in the Gulf of Fonseca in Pacific Honduras.

The tranquil island is essentially just a volcanic peak that sharply rises from the ocean. It is a short boat ride from Coyolito on the mainland of Honduras. On the weekends and holidays it attracts a fair bit of upper class tourists from Tegucigalpa. International visitors are not very common on the island and there is virtually no tourist on the island during the week.

It makes for a nice stopover if you are traveling between El Salvador and Nicaragua and do not want to do the whole trip in a single day.

Understand

In the late 19th century, German immigrants established Ampala as the major port of Honduras in the Pacific. The town raised to some wealth, the remnants of which can still be seen today. Eventually San Lorenzo became the favorite port for the Pacific, and by the 1930s the port fell mostly out of use and most of the Germans left. Since the waterways to San Lorenzo pass through some wetlands and are therefore hard to maintain, a group of South Korean investors showed interest to reestablish a port on the island.

During a civil war in Nicaragua, Honduras allowed Nicaraguan rebels to install a base on the peak of Cerro El Tigre. Some ruins of their base are still there.

Current situation Several villages are scattered around the island. They are usually named as the beaches they are closest to. The main town on the island is Amapala. To its south there is a base of the Honduran Navy.

With high levels of unemployment, most of the population is poor, especially those living in villages on the Eastern side.

Get in

Buses go from el desvío, a crossing North of San Lorenzo, to Coyolito (L25). From there boats go frequently to Amapala (L20) and Playa Burro (L15).

To get to el desvío from El Amatillo or Tegucigalpa, take any bus to San Lorenzo and tell the driver you want to get off for Coyolito.

From San Lorenzo or Choluteca any bus to Tegucigalpa passes by el desvío.

You could also come here directly on a chartered boat from El Salvador (very close) or Nicaragua. However, since there is apparently no immigration office on the island, getting the formalities sorted out might be tricky.

Checking into the country via sailboat was a breeze with both port captain and immigration offices on the end of the pier - and it is free.

Get around

Tuk-tuks are virtually the only means of transportation on the island. They always charge per person and will pick up more people as they go. They usually charge L5 within a village and up to L30 for larger distances.

The road around the island measures 18 km, so you could walk all distances if you are fit.

See and do

Amapala. A few old buildings that might make a stroll in the streets worth your while.

Beaches. The beaches are very calm. Even on the Pacific side, the waves are usually not very high. With a mix of volcanic and normal sand, most people might not find the beaches too attractive. However, the views of the neighboring islands are spectacular.

Climb Cerro del Tigre. Two trails lead up to the antenna on the peak, one from Playa Burro in the north and one from the Naval Base in the west. Neither of the trails is marked. The trail from Playa Burro is apparently not obvious at all. You might need to hire a local to guide you to the top. The trail from the Naval base is steep but relatively easy to follow. It forks a few times but it usually becomes obvious if you picked the wrong option. There is also a detailed map of the trail on openstreetmap.org. At the end of either trail, you get to the antenna and ruins of a Nicaraguan rebel base. Just before reaching the antenna, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the coast of Honduras. The antenna has been decomissioned because of the complicated maintenance; since then many parts of it have been stolen, so it is probably not recommended to attempt to climb it.

Walk around the island. The road going around the island measures 18 km (11 mi). Without much elevation change it is relatively easy to walk around the island. There are some viewpoints next to the road in the South. Should you change your mind, Tuk-Tuks are passing by from time to time which can pick you up. Though a government program has provided most poor people on the island with (identical) small houses, you might see families in some fairly poor living conditions as you walk around the island.

Eat

In Amapala Nice street food can be found two blocks up from the docks. They don't have a large selection of drinks but they don't mind if you bring your own from La Comercial one block north.

Velero. Snacks (golosinas) for L20, good fries for L30. Try the great Fresco de Sandía for L5.

Sleep

Lodging on the island seems to cater to wealthy visitors of the capital. Most rooms are expensive and at the same time not very attractive.

In Amapala There are plenty of unattractive options for L500 or more in town. Just ask around and people will be happy to point out places to you.

El Parque. Camping is allowed, free, and safe in this fairly attractive and clean park. There is plenty of grass to pitch a tent or trees for a hammock. To get some shelter from the rain you can also set up in the kiosko. There is a well and a pila down the steps in the south-west corner. To get a bucket (cubeta) for the well (pozo), just ask around at the houses neighbouring the park. Likely, you will get invited by the people occupying the old casino just west of the park to camp on their territory. The family living there is slightly weird but harmless.

La Comercial. The grumpy owner has a very spacious double which she gives out with some haggling for L400. However, the shower was broken in 2016. The other rooms are very unattractive.

Velero. The rooms with AC, a terrace with hammocks, and the attached restaurant are a pleasant exception to all the overpriced lodging options on the island. The doors are not exactly waterproof, so be careful what you leave on the floor. During a thunderstorm, rain might get in through the doors.