Gjirokastër.
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Overview

Gjirokastër is a town and a UNESCO world heritage site in Southeastern Albania.

Get in

From here you can catch northbound buses to Tirana, Vlorë, Fier, Berat, Tepelene, Korçë, Permet, and southbound buses to Sarandë.

Buses and minibuses are going to Tirana (1,000 leke) every hour from around 07:00 until 13:00, then there is a bus at 14:30 and a night bus leaving at 00:00 (it arrives in Tirane at 05:45 near Skanderbeg Square).

A shuttle to the Kakavie border crossing with Greece runs several times a day. Buses depart every day on the route Sarandë-Gjirokastër (300 leke) stopping hourly at the bottom of the hill until the early afternoon.

Transportation and other tourism information is available from the employees of the Tourism Information Center (TIC), located in the old town, on the left side of the road leading towards the castle.

Get around

Gjirokastër can be divided into roughly two halves, the old town up on the hill, and the new town in the valley below. You can walk just about anywhere if you're able to handle the steep cobbled streets. Taxis are cheap and there is a public bus circuit that connects the old town and the new town for about 30 leke. From the roundabout at the center of town to the bus station on the National Road is a fairly flat, easy, 10-minute walk along the main boulevard. Taxis will make this trip for around 200 leke.

See

Gjirokastër Castle. The historical and geographical center of the city, the Castle is billed as the second largest in all the Balkans, and is worth a look. The Armaments Museum is located in the castle (separate 200 leke entrance) and contains a collection of mostly post-War era weapons, photographs and artwork: the main gallery, with its eerily lit corridor, contains two columns of large German and Italian field guns, remnants of WWII. The Castle also contains two Bektashi tekes, the stage for the internationally-renowned Gjirokaster National Folk Festival, a prison (now part of the Armaments Museum and available with an extra charge) and numerous chambers, some in ruins, open to exploration. A second museum gallery, the Zenebishi Gallery, features occasional free art exhibits. Underneath the castle is the underground bunker built in the Cold War.

Ethnographic Museum. Once Enver Hoxha's house, it is a well-restored Ottoman house which displays clothing, kitchenware, tools and other cultural artifacts. The guided tour (available in Albanian, English, and German though availability should be checked in advance).

Old Bazaar and Historic Ottoman Homes. The old bazaar is still the social and commercial center of the Old Town of Gjirokaster. Though the newer sections of the city have attracted many businesses and people, the bazaar and its surrounding homes dating from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries still manages to capture a bit of the bygone era of Gjirokastrite life. Several of the houses are at various levels of restoration and are open to the public. Traditional houses include Cabej House, and Topulli House. The Bazaar has undergone a cleaning and exterior restoration as part of the government's revitalization plan.

Kadare House. House of renowned writer Ismail Kadare undergoing reconstruction.

Skenduli House. A renovated traditional house

Zekate House. It is the most visited of Gjirokastër's monumental stone houses. It is one of the largest of its kind, featuring three floors spread over two large towers. The house has been restored again (having undergone earlier restorations during the Communist era) and is kept open by its owners as a museum house. In addition to providing an interesting primer of the characteristic architectural elements of the city's tower houses, it offers a beautiful view of the city below.

Saint Sotira Church. This is a well-preserved 18th-century Orthodox Church.

Gjirokaster Mosque. This mosque is a true testimony of the communist religious ban in Albania. Spared from destruction from its religious importance, the mosque was transformed as a circus training centre only to return to its original setting after the 1990s in the form of a Muslim school.

Seven Fountains, Mechite Mosque Remains, and the Hamams. The fountains and the exterior of the Hamams have been restored. One can observe the dedicatory inscriptions on the fountains and the cone shaped traditional roofs of the Hamams.

Cold War Museum. Underground bunker of Enver Hoxha with around 70 rooms built for emergency situations.

Sofratike. Site of an ancient theater and baths.

Paleokaster. Site of an ancient village.

Labove. Home of one of the oldest standing Orthodox churches in the Balkans and Tombs of Ali Pasha's sister and nephew in Libohove village.

The Illyrian city of Antigone. This village is the starting point of a 3-hour round trip hike to the ruins of Antigone; it makes a nice day hike for the physically fit (you will want to hire a local shepherd as a guide).

Libohove village. Myfit Bey Sarajet and Castle, and the Tombs of Ali Pashe Tepelena's Sister and Nephew Visit the 400 year old olive tree at the centre of town.

Do

Viroit Park. It is a park encompassing the Viroi Lake and surrounding hills. The park features a relaxing environment and an accommodation area.

National Folklore Festival. A festival showcasing traditional Albanian music and dance considered as the most important event in its genre. Traditionally held every five years since 1968 in Gjirokaster Castle, it was last held in June 2023 after an eight year gap. An artisans' exhibition took place as well.

Buy

Known for handcrafted copper/metal souvenirs and traditional Albanian food products. Take a look at the Artisans' Center near the Information Center featuring many souvenirs and traditional crafts.

Eat

Gjirokastër is known for its Qifqi (baked dish made of rice, egg, and seasonings). The city is also well known for its dairy products, especially its white cheese.

There are also well established restaurants in Gjirokastër catering to travellers and the local crowd.

Kujtim's – serves a wide variety of Gjirokastrian specialties. The newly renovated Çajupi Hotel's Terrace Restaurant, The Byrek Shop Muço's Suflaç & Restaurant – Good omelets in the morning Hajri's Coffee Bar Sopoti Cafe Restaurant Tradicional Odaja - traditional Albanian food, definitely recommend the baked cheese with honey and sesame.

Piazza La Crêpa. A great place with crêpe specialities off the beaten (tourist) track.

Kufoi's, Pizza Erai Antigone Fast Food Suflgreat place off the beaten tourist trackaç, Suflaç at the Hotel One Restaurant Modus Cafe – for coffee

Drink

Raki Mani (aka Mulberry Raki) is supposed to be a local speciality, but it is hard to find. You will have the best chances in June or July.

Sleep

Kotoni Bed&Breakfast. The first guest house in Gjirokastra, since 1992, comes up with more traditional rooms and a characteristic restaurant. Each room has coloured satellite TV, bathroom, heating. 200 m from the old bazaar, you can have a great view of the old and new part of the town.

Hashorva Guesthouse. The Hashorva Family, a well established name in the Lagjia Varosh Neighborhood, offers one very large, faithfully restored traditional Ottoman Era room, with a double bed and sitting area. The house is over 200 years old and is kept in wonderful condition by its original owners. Naturally cool in the summer, the guest bathroom is off the main hallway with 24-hour hot water and modern facilities. It's in the heart of Gjirokastër, an easy 5 to 15 minutes walk from all the major sites of Historic Old Town and 10 minutes walk to the new town and the bus station on the National Road. (Payment can be made by cash only in Albanian lek, euros or US dollars - Or you can book in advance online using a credit card at )

Hotel Relax. 9 double rooms and 1 suite, with A/C. This wonderful hotel lies at the foot of the hilly center of beautiful Gjirokaster. It is a small hotel owned by a very sweet family. The father handles business, and is helped by his nice teenage daughter. They are incredible friendly and the hotel is very clean and has everything you need, including a cosy sitting area and balcony, overlooking the square. There is a bar downstairs, also owned by the family, so after visiting Gjirokaster it is perfect to relax and have a drink.

Hotel Sopoti. A formerly grand hotel, it feels somewhat forgotten; rooms are basic, ask for one with a balcony to get a view of the castle, bathrooms are shared. The manager of the hotel is a refined older gentleman who also runs the bar/kafe downstairs. He knows some English. If you ask for wifi internet (which doesn't seem to happen very often) you will be given the password for a nearby cafe, but it is too far away so it can only work between 03:00 and 06:00 when nobody else uses it. still a good choice for a single traveller as it is cheaper than a dorm bed in one of the towns hostels

Hotel Gjirokaster. Modeled after a traditional Ottoman House. Excellent location that is half-way between the castle and the market area. Friendly staff and free breakfast included.

Stone City Hostel. Run by American sweetheart Brenna, crazy Dutchman Walter and a mix of well travelled locals and foreigners. It has a shaded garden with fruit trees, a huge roof terrace and brilliant views of the castle. Inside there's a nicely furnished and big common room with a fully equipped kitchen and nice places to chill out. There are three dorms and one double room, all with air-conditioning and custom made beds with large lockers underneath. Free Wi-Fi, free use of computers, and a bar full of cold drinks.