Dire Dawa.
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Overview

Dire Dawa in eastern Ethiopia is the second-largest city in Ethiopia.

Understand

Dire Dawa (which means "Place of Remedy") is one of two chartered cities in Ethiopia (the other being Addis Ababa, the capital). Dire Dawa was founded in 1902 after the Addis Ababa-Djibouti Railway reached the area. The railway could not reach the city of Harar at its higher elevation, so Dire Dawa was built nearby. It is a major hub for many ethnic groups in Ethiopia, especially the Afar, Oromo, and Somali.

The city is an industrial center on the Dechatu River, and home to several markets. It lies at the foot of a ring of cliffs that has been described as "somewhat like a cluster of tea-leaves in the bottom of a slop-basin". The entire chartered city has a population of 440,000 and the city proper has 277,000 residents (2015), making the latter the seventh largest city in Ethiopia.

Get in

By car Dire Dawa is connected to Addis Ababa and the historical city of Harar by road, but fly or take train from Addis to get in to Dire Dawa.

By bus There are three bus companies operating services linking Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa. The cheapest, least comfortable and slowest is the government local bus service. This can take 12-15 hours. The most expensive is the Sky bus service, a luxury Chinese coach with toilets and a movie system, which takes around ten hours. The Salem bus is a reasonable middle option, which is much quicker than the local service but still a bus rather than a coach. Tickets for government buses are bought in the main bus station. Sky bus tickets are sold from a discrete office in the Cornell area of town. Salem bus tickets are purchased at the Samrat Hotel opposite the Ras.

Harar is the other major destination. Small mini buses leave whenever they are full from the main bus station and take about an hour. It rarely takes longer than fifteen minutes for a minibus to be ready to leave.

By train A railway line was inaugurated between Djibouti and Addis Abeba in 2018, reducing the journey time from days to a few hours. There is one passenger train every second day in each direction.

It takes 11 hours from Addis Ababa to reach Dire Dawa. As of November 2025, this is running as a night train with sleeper cabins available. Bring enough food and water for your trip as the train restaurant can run out of everything in the middle of the trip to Dire Dawa (and there are no shops nor restaurants at the station).

Get around

The blue and white minibuses are in abundance in Dire Dawa, as are the small blue bajaji (auto rickshaws). These are easily hail-able from the street. Most Dire Dawa taxi drivers don't have a sense of time, if you tell your contracted taxi driver to pick you up or drop you of at a certain time, expect him to be late an hour or two.

See

There isn't a whole lot to see in Dire Dawa.

The French-built train station can give you a 19th-century feeling. At night and early in the morning, the Dechatu River Basin has a heart-warming sunset and sunrise scene.

Palace of Haile Selassie. A small palace built for former Emperor Haile Selassie. There have been talks to turn this into a museum, but no plans have materialized yet.

Do

Most of the residents of the city chew the narcotic leaves known as "Chat" (aka qat, khat, catha edulis). In the afternoon, in many places, Dire Dawans sit in circle and consume khat, with several cups of coffee. During this time there could be a heated discussion. Avoid political topics, especially with the Ethiopian Somalis or Somali refugees. Other than that, you could have an interesting experience with the lightly narcotic drug.

Twice yearly (July and December) there is a religious ceremony at the nearby city of Kulubi (30 birr by minibus, 1 hour). It is a mass gathering with many small stalls selling clothes, sugar cane, etc. Hotel prices in Dire Dawa double or triple for the three-day period.

Buy

Souvenirs, electronics, and clothes, Harar coffee.

The market near the river has traditional African spices, incense, and fruits such as guava, sour sop and custard apple.

There are two ATMs in the city at Dashen Bank and Ogaden Bank.

Eat

Paradiso restaurant found on the road to Harar near the edge of town is regarded as the best Italian in town. It is most famous for lasagna and the roasted goat meat with rice. The traditional Ethiopian dishes are also of high quality. Peacock Hotel has some nice ice cream and pool tables.

Al Hashim Tafach migeb bet. Renown throughout the region for its baclava and other baked goods. If you want the baclava, come early (before 9am ideally), because they sell out fast.

Sleep

Budget Basic accommodations are in abundance.

Ras Hotel. Close to downtown in Dire-Dawa is quite pricey for the offerings.

Yegezu Lejoch Hotel. Probably the finest hotel in Dire Dawa, and extremely reasonable prices for what you get. Balconies. Free WiFi. Room service.