Dakar.
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Overview

Dakar is the capital and largest city of Senegal and is often regarded as the cultural and commercial center of French-speaking West Africa. Dakar is often the first stop in exploring French-speaking West Africa because it has good flight connections with Western Europe. Tourism, especially business tourism, is growing in importance, stimulated by international events such as the Dakar Rally or the Contemporary Art Biennale.

Understand

Dakar lies on the end of the Cap Verte peninsula, which is the westernmost point of the African mainland. While the city has a population of 1.25 million (2023), the metropolitan area is home to about 4 million people.

The Senegalese are very proud of their reputation for "teranga", or hospitality. Locals are extremely friendly and helpful, but as you would anywhere else, watch out for scams and pickpockets. Petty crime here is relatively high, so be cautious.

The peninsula was settled by the Lebou people, closely related to the Wolof people, when the Portuguese first reached it in 1444. The original villages: Ouakam, Ngor, Yoff and Hann, still constitute distinctively Lebou neighbourhoods of the city today. The Portuguese were repulsed by the locals at first (the first Portuguese ships were slave-raiders), but peaceful contact was made in 1456. The bay was an important stop for the Portuguese India armadas of the early 15th century and Portuguese armadas en route to Brazil. It is believed that during a stop here in 1501, when an armada returning from India and one heading to Brazil met, an explorer with the latter (Amerigo Vespucci) compared notes with explorers returning from East Asia and realized that Asia & the New World couldn't be the same continent; it was a letter published upon his return that is heralded as the first postulation of America as a separate continent.

The Portuguese established a settlement on the island of Gorée in the early 16th century and, on the mainland, the Lebou established the town of Ndakaaru to service the needs of the Portuguese. It would be captured by the Dutch in 1588 and switch hands several times between them until the British captured the island in 1664 and the French gained control in 1677. The settlement would mostly support the slave trade. The infamous House of Slaves was completed in 1796.

In 1795, the Lebou revolted against Cayor rule and established the Lebou Republic with Ndakaaru as its capital. In 1857, the French established a military post on the peninsula and annexed the Lebou Republic. With slavery outlawed, the French supported peanut cultivation. Gorée island proved ineffective as a port, and so with the booming peanut trade, the French supported the growth of Dakar and its port. Dakar replaced Saint-Louis as the capital of French West Africa in 1902. During this heyday, the city was one of the most important cities in the French empire (comparable to Beirut or Hanoi).

In 1959, Dakar became the capital of the Mali Federation and, upon its breakup, became the capital of Senegal in 1960. The city maintains strong ties to France, boasts a large French expatriate population, and hosts offices for many French businesses involved in West Africa.

Dakar is warm and humid year-round with a rainy season that lasts from July–October. Temperatures are warm, but moderated by cool sea-breezes and not as hot as inland cities in the region (like Bamako or Ouagadougou). The warmest months are Jul–Oct with highs of 30 to 31°C (86 to 87°F) and lows of 24.5°C (76°F). Jan–Mar are the coolest months, with highs around 25°C (77°F) and lows around 17 to 18°C (63°F).

Average yearly rainfall is 495 mm (19.5 in), of which just 19 mm (0.75 in) falls outside the rainy season! During the rainy season, roads around the city can turn into rushing rivers and without proper sewers in some parts of the city, standing water is contaminated and not safe to walk through.

Get in

From Europe: Amsterdam (TUI), Barcelona (Air Senegal and Vueling), Brussels (Brussels Airlines); Geneva (Air Senegal), Lisbon (TAP Air Portugal); London-Stansted (Air Senegal), Madrid (Iberia); Marseille (Air Senegal), Milan (Neos); Nantes (Transavia), Paris-Charles de Gaulle (Air France and Air Senegal); and Istanbul (Turkish Airlines) From North America: New York City-JFK (Delta Air Lines) From Asia: Dubai (Emirates)

From West Africa (some airlines fly multi-city routes and therefore direct flights are only available in one direction to or from Dakar and the listed city): Abidjan (Air Côte d'Ivoire, Air Senegal, ASKY Airlines, Kenya Airways, Mauritania Airlines); Abuja (Air Senegal); Accra (Air Senegal, and Arik Air); Bamako (Air Burkina, Air Cote d'Ivoire, Air Mali, Air Senegal, Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Airways, Mauritania Airlines); Banjul (Air Senegal, Arik Air, Brussels Airlines, Guinea Airlines, Transair); Bissau (Air Senegal, ASKY Airlines, Transair); Conakry (Air Cote d'Ivoire and Air Senegal, Brussels Airlines, Guinea Airlines, Mauritania Airlines, Transair, Tunisair); Cotonou (Air Senegal and CEIBA International); Freetown (Air Senegal, Mauritania Airlines, Transair); Lagos (Air Senegal, Arik Air); Lome (ASKY Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines); Niamey (Air Senegal); Nouakchott (Air Senegal and Mauritania Airlines); and Ouagadougou (Air Burkina and Air Senegal).

From North Africa: Algiers (Air Algerie); Casablanca (Air Senegal and Royal Air Maroc); Tunis (Tunisair) From Eastern Africa: Addis Ababa (Ethiopian Airlines, via Lome); Nairobi (Kenya Airways, via Abidjan and Bamako) From Central Africa: Douala (Air Senegal); Libreville (Air Senegal), Malabo (CEIBA International) From Cape Verde & Canary Islands: Gran Canaria (Binter Canarias); Praia (Air Senegal, ASKY Airlines, Transair); Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines), Tenerife-North (Vueling) National carrier Air Senegal operates domestic flights from Dakar to Cap Skirring & Ziguinchor in the western part of Casamance. Regional airline, Transair, operates to Cap Skirring, Kolda and Ziguinchor.

Taxi rides from the airport to the centre of Dakar are around CFA20,000, negotiated with taxi drivers. Insist on using the toll motorway (autoroute à payage), you will be expected to pay the toll, as it will save a lot of time during the day, and the local roads are unsafe at night.

Alternatively, Dakar Dem Dikk buses between the airport and the AIBD Dem Dikk station (HLM Grand Yoff neighborhood) leave on the hour from approximately 06:00-21:00 for CFA 6,000 (Dec 2024). From there, you can negotiate a (likely cheaper) taxi to your specific destination in Dakar.

There is probably a bus to Gare Routière des Beax Maraîchers.

Be prepared to refuse touts and taxi drivers. See Stay safe for details.

Dakar is the western terminus of the Dakar–Niger Railway, built by French colonialists in the early 20th century. The line connects Dakar with Bamako in Mali and was for a long time very popular with travelers. Unfortunately, large sections of the railway has fallen into disrepair and there has been no long-distance trains since 2010.

While there are no long-distance trains running as of 2022, there have been investments in a new modern regional service. The Train Express Régional (TER) now connects the central railway station with Dakar's eastern districts, ending in the nearby city of Diamniadio. The next phase will see the line extended to connect with the international airport and with Thies, to the east.

By road The main method of travel around the country is by sept-places (French for "seven seats"), questionable station wagons in which they will pack seven people so that you are basically sitting on the next person's lap throughout the journey. You can also come with a group and rent out an entire sept place, but this will be expensive. There are set prices to often-travelled locations. Watch out for pickpockets!

All minicar and sept-place arrivals and departures have moved to Dakar's new Gare Routiere des Beaux Maraîchers, which is in Pikine on the outskirts of Dakar. To get to the city centre you will have to take a taxi for between 4,000 and 6,000 CFA. There may also be Dakar Dem Dikk busses passing by (possibly number 218). DDD bus number 15 passes near-ish going to Place de l'Independance.

A state-owned ferry runs between Dakar and Ziguinchor in Senegal's Casamance region (below The Gambia). The Joola, one of the former ferries on this route, capsized in a storm while overloaded in 2002, regarded as the second deadliest maritime disaster in recent history. 1,800-1,900 people are believe to have died while only 64 survived (the ship was built to carry 580 people!) and the disaster remains on the minds of many Senegalese. The Aline Sitoé Diatta, built in 2008, is the current ferry. Changes have been made to ensure a disaster such as the Joola never happens again, so passengers shouldn't feel too worried.

The ferry runs overnight and takes around 16 hours in each direction. Departures from Dakar are Tuesdays & Fridays. Departures from Ziguinchor are Thursdays and Sundays (arriving in Dakar on Fridays & Mondays, respectively). Tickets can be purchased about one month in advance. Unfortunately, as of December 2024, it is still not possible to reserve tickets online, so you may have to work with a third party (e.g. someone at your hotel) if you want to get a ticket prior to arrival in country.

Get around

By rapid bus Opened in 2023, the 18 km Sunu BRT line runs through central Dakar from the Grand Mosque to the Corniche. Unlike the chaotic regular bus system, the train-like BRT has stations and dedicated lanes.

By bus The Dakar bus system, known as Dakar Demm Dikk (Dakar coming and going), is fairly dependable. There's not much in the way of a map of the bus system, so you'll have to figure it out on your own. The number 10 bus runs along the Corniche de l'Ouest and turns into the suburbs at Rue Aime Cesaire. The number 1 bus runs along the VDN.

Cars Rapides. These are the usually blue, yellow or white mini-buses that careen through Dakar and some of Senegal's other cities. As of 2011 CFA150 would cover most destinations. If he shouts back at you the destination you want, signal it to stop and hop aboard. To stop, bang loudly on the side of the bus, on the roof or signal to the apprenti you want off. Apprentis don't always speak French, so be prepared to communicate otherwise if you do not speak Wolof. Be careful about asking for your destination, as the apprenti will often tell you it is going there just to get you on the bus, no matter its actual destination. If possible, ask where it is going rather than if it is going to your destination.

By taxi Cheap and safe and everywhere. Just don't mind the broken windscreen.

Ride-hailing apps Heetch and Yango are available.

By rail The first section of Dakar Train Express Régional (TER), between the central railway station in the city centre and Diamniadio in the eastern suburbs, opened in December 2021. While the service is mainly aimed at commuters, it can be useful for tourist to reach destinations in the eastern parts of the city. Over the next few years the TER network will be extended to reach the international airport among other destinations.

See

African Renaissance Monument. This colossal copper monument opened in 2010 and is dedicated to Africa's emergence from the oppressive European regimes that once ruled the continent and the end of slavery. It is also meant as a display of African pride to counter foreign perceptions of Africans as inferior people. The monument is rather controversial, with some Africans feeling the sense of pride it is meant to evoke while others criticizing it as a foreign (it was built by North Korea), completely un-African Stalinist statue. With its 52 m from base to top, it is the tallest statue in Africa and also the tallest in the world outside Eurasia. Free to visit on the outside. But the view from the top and the exhibition is worth the admission.

Ile de Gorée. It was named by the Dutch after taking over the island from the Portuguese in the late 1600s. Today it's listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Goree was a minor location used for the transport of slaves headed to the Americas, though its prominence is often overplayed. The island has interesting colonial architecture, mostly in ruins, including the landmark "House of Slaves" museum. The trip takes 10-20 minutes. There are many small restaurants and a handful of places offering lodging. Just walk around and explore. It's a small island, so you can easily stroll around it in an hour. You can buy cheap beer and lounge on the beach when you're done, or stroll some more and buy art-work from the locals.

Les Almadies. The Western tip of the African continent where plenty of seafood restaurants are located.

Dakar Grand Mosque. Built in 1964 by French and Moroccan architects. Due to the Moroccan influence, there are strong similarities with the Grand Mosque in Casablanca.

Hann Park and Zoo. The public gardens were built in 1903 and the arboretum was built in 1947. The gardens feature a wide variety of Senegalese plant life and the zoo contains over 130 animals.

Léopold Sédar Senghor national stadium. Football is as important as music! When the biggest team ASC Jeanne D'Arc plays, the stadium is packed with more than 60,000 fans. Expect passion, noise and African football at its best.

Village Des Arts. Kind of an organic art studio/cultural exhibit forum for local artists. Dance and musical events take place along with artists working and pieces on display. Next to stadium.

Phare des Mamelles. Superb views of ocean and city skyline from the lighthouse besides the interesting name.

Place du Souvenir Africain. A plaza perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean with the Henry Bathily Museum of the Women and some eateries and exhibition space. Here you can really take in the sunset from the edge of Africa. Adjacent to the Sea Plaza shopping mall.

Monument du Millénaire. A monument about looking to the future along the corniche, so more great views.

Musée des Forces Armées Senegalaise. Patriotic museum showcasing the history of Senegal and its military, including how Senegalese soldiers fought bravely under the French flag.

Musée Civilisations noires. Focus on African civilization and culture, the Nubian way of life. May need a little French understanding to comprehend the placards. Nice rotunda building.

Loman Art Gallery. A place for contemporary African art aficionados owned by the eponymous artist. Along with works by various artists, you can find special showings, a cafe and even a homestay.

Do

Dakar has a vibrant music scene and is very popular with young people. Check out the incredibly rich and variant styles. Places like Club Thiossane, Just 4 U are a must for World Music fans.

Lake Retba. Also called the "Pink Lake", the high concentration of cyanobacteria indeed gives the lake a pink tone. During the dry season and when the sun is brightest the color is said to be especially vivid. The lake has a high concentration of salt, so while you admire the beauty of the lake, you can also observe the salt harvesters who still gather salt in the traditional way.

Birdwatching. Senegal is a great country for birdwatching, and Dakar is no exception. Les Almadies is a good place to see seabirds, and the Iles de la Madeleine is the only African nesting site of the red-billed tropicbird.

Madeline Islands National Park. Island off Dakar tip with pristine ecosystem (particularly birds, bird nests) Stone Age tool discoveries, and place of ancient worship that is considered the smallest national park in the world. The boat trip can be a little intimidating, being in the open ocean on a canoe, but feels a world away from the hustle of Dakar, which you can take pictures of from the island.

Magic Land, Dakar. A Senegalese amusement park, kind of run-down, like it is Pennywise's home. But if you get bored there is also the Casino Terrou-Bi and a small beach next door.

Leopold Sedar Senghor French Institute. French cultural institute offering theater, library, French lessons, dance, exhibitions, buffet.

Grand National Theater of Dakar. One of the largest theaters in West Africa, hosting major concerts.

Plage BCEAO. Pretty beach and water, but watch out...sometimes beach is closed to swimming due to rubbish, release of sewage/open defecation, instances of drowning. You can see Yoff Island (Ile de Yoff) off in the distance.

Plage du Virage. Somewhat rocky beach but cleaner than some; bar nearby. More for surfing than for swimming.

Ile de Ngor. Small popular isle off northwest tip of Dakar with clean (hopefully) beach and bars/eateries.

Plage de la Pointe des Almadies. Relatively clean, somewhat rocky beach. Food/drink venues. Westernmost point of mainland Africa just to south. There are several hotels under construction as of December 2024 that may eventually close off public access to the beach when completed. In the interim, security guards monitoring the construction sites may try to get you to pay a 'fee' to access it, but that is not legitimate. Playing a little dumb is usually sufficient to make them give up.

Plage des mamelles. One of Dakar's most popular, well-liked beaches. Sandy. Sunsets, whew, pretty phenomenal. Watch out for big waves though. Just below Phare des Mamelles. Max's restaurant adjacent.

Plage de l'Anse Bernard. Quiet, peaceful beach with smaller wave break so okay for swimming.

Plage de la Voile d' or. Another nice beach and good for swimming. May be able to see Goree Island in the distance.

Buy

Islam Couture/ Embroidery Dakar has some amazing (and amazingly expensive) stores specialised in haute-couture, embroidered traditional west African Muslim clothes.

Marche Sandaga. Madness. A decrepit concrete structure that has, despite appearance, three levels of activity: meat and vegetable stalls on the main floor, fish in the basement dungeon and restaurant stalls on the roof. You will need to brave the crumpled stairs and step around guys cleaning dead chicken to make it up. Around the market building a sprawling network of stalls offer everything from copied music CDs, Manchester United shirts, electronic gadgets and Islamic books. The hawkers can be very aggressive. The place is infamous for pickpockets, so take only the amount of money you need and keep it in a safe place.

Marche HLM A smaller market geared primarily towards fabric vendors, Marche HLM is slightly less hectic than Sandaga. Huge selection of fabric to buy and then get tailored into perfectly fitting traditional Senegalese wear (if you will be in Dakar for awhile, ask a Senegalese person who his or her tailor is, and go there. A little less convenient for those who will only be staying a week). Most vendors won't sell less than 3 to 6 metres of fabric.

Marche Kermel. Traditional Senegalese market. Casino du Port also near here (north towards harbour) if you want to have a buffet or spend time at a casino.

Marche Soumbedioune. a popular evening fish market. There is also a "Village Artisanal" nearby selling handmade jewellery, wooden decoration elements and many other handicrafts. Be prepared to bargain.

cocktail du senegal. more handicrafts and curios.

Eat

Peanuts: The roasted peanuts you can buy on the street or get with your order of beer in any bar are delicious. These nuts are not greasy and have just the right amount of salt, and sometimes are still slightly warm from being roasted.

Chez Elias. Fast food very popular with menu at the top. Simple welcoming place. Quality food and fast service. Best Shawarma.

Les batons ("BANT-YII"). Mythical place in Dakar to eat meat skewers with an epise from Niger made from corn. Atypical place if you are a lover of good meat. The food is very tasty there.

Ali Baba. Greasy Spoon where you can get cheap Lebanese food. Good falafel sandwiches with French fries and lots of tahina sauce, shwarma, kebab and all sorts of other delicious (also western) snacks. Find it halfway up Ave. Pompidou.

Hotel Restaurant Farid. Drink a gigantic Arrak (made from anis) as an aperitif and then order the 20 Mezze.

Artisan Boulanger Eric Kayser. It's along the street of Cafe du Rome towards La Corniche (the sea) and away from the centre two blocks up on your right hand side. Serves fresh, warm croissants, pain au chocolate and pain ain au raisins. The coffee is good and the fruit juices freshly squeezed. You will be surrounded by locals in beautiful Islamic outfits, reading the paper and discussing the latest news.

Chez Loutcha. Chez Lutcha is a Cape Verdian restaurant that serves huge portions of excellent food. Cape Verdian (Portuguese inspired) dishes, Senegalese food and international cuisine. Cosy courtyard or air-con dining room. Excellent service.

Le N'Gor. A brightly painted open-air restaurant overlooking the sea. Several terraced patios give it a good feel. Portions are small, but the food is delicious. Expect to pay CFA10,000 for a full meal with beer and dessert. It is located in Les Almadies past the Hotel de Almadies from the new US embassy, set back from the road behind an often empty parking lot. Look for poorly lit painted signs for "Ile de Le N'Gor".

Le Jardin Thailandais. Huge menu of delicious Thai food, great atmosphere. A little pricey, but worth it. Across the street from UCAD (Université Cheikh Anta Diop) off of Avenue Cheikh Anta Diop/Rue de Ouakam. There is a jazz club across the street.

Hotel de l'Indépendance. Eat here for the magnificent views from the restaurant on 16th floor.

Café de Rome. Authentic French food (you feel like you're in France), from oysters to steak tartar, and the famous Sole Meuniere. It is pricey by Dakar standards, but the food is great

La Fourchette. Stylish place serving international cuisine (Mexican, Japanese, Moroccan, etc.) at moderate prices. Next to Marche Kermel.

Drink

Gazelle is the local favourite beer - it comes in serious bottles, or Flag, which is stronger and more expensive.

Le Viking. On the Ponty, in the midst of Sandaga madness, it is a popular spot for expats and tourists. Pricey drinks, but great atmosphere. Live music on weekend nights!

Sleep

There is a wide selection of hotels, from the basic to the best 4 star chains. Many first time visitors stay at the expensive Meridien. There are, however, some good and reasonably priced places to stay.

Oceanium. Environmentally friendly hostel/diving center, the Oceanium is also home for the Senegalese Ecologists Federation (FEDES). This very well located hostel works like a family and will give you many chances to meet the local culture. The fisherman's village Terrou Bye Sogui is next to the hostel so you can easily have a nice and affordable grilled fish for dinner.

Onomo hotel. Very useful for people that have to catch very early morning planes to other places. It is not uncommon that your flight to say Europe or Nigeria leaves at 03:00!

Hôtel du Phare Les Mamelles. The Phare hotel, named after the landmark Lighthouse is in "Les Mamelles", a quiet residential beach district, 15 minutes from the city, 10 minutes from Leopold Sedar Senghor airport and close to "Les Almadies", "Ouakam", "N'Gor". Has 10 rooms surrounding an open air Flower Patio and rooms vary from sgl to quad each with ceiling fan and/or air con.

Auberge Poulagou. Yoff Tonghor Plage. Le Poulagou is a small hotel, 2 km from the airport and right on the coast. Ideal for the first days to escape the madness of Dakar. Free Internet access.

Hotel Oceanic. Centrally located. Rooms and beds are (a bit) run down but the bathroom is OK. Good breakfast at neighbouring self-service restaurant.

Hotel Farid. Central location. Rooms with air-con, TV, mini-bar, safe and free internet access

Chez Eric. A bed and breakfast type of place on Goree Island, with a store next door. Wifi, bar, free breakfast.

Mid-range Al Afifa Hotel, (city centre), Clean air-con rooms. Wi-Fi works most of the time and is free. Small outdoor pool, the main restaurant/bar alongside it. Food is good and the breakfast excellent with fresh croissants. Ask a waiter to prepare a mango or other fruit at the buffet. Expect to pay around CFA45,000 for a single room plus CFA3,600 for a breakfast. This hotel also has an "American bar" and a nightclub attached. Walking distance to the main attractions in Dakar and the best restaurants such as Café de Rome and Chez Loutcha.

Pullman Dakar Teranga. Best Accor hotel in town. Offers good views over the Atlantic from the rooftop. Island in the madness. Popular with business travellers.

Radisson Blu Hotel, Dakar Sea Plaza. Trendy neighbourhood offering picturesque views of the Atlantic Ocean.

King Fahd Palace Hotel. Top class hotel, and offer a free shuttle service to and from the airport.

Embassies and consulates

BBC World Service radio broadcasts in English and French in Dakar on 105.6 MHz.