Caye Caulker.
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Overview

Caye Caulker is a small island off the coast of Belize, 1.6 km (1 mi) west of the Barrier Reef. Caye Caulker is popular with backpackers and budget travellers for its (relatively) cheap prices, laid-back vibe, and abundance of restaurants and bars.

Understand

It's about 8.2 km (5 mi) in length with a population of 2,000. Temperature is usually below in the snowbird season.

There aren't really any proper beaches to speak of, but plenty of docks are spread around the island where you can pull up a plastic chair and get your sun on, or hang out at one of the ocean front restaurants or walk down to "The Split" which is a popular swimming area and if you're feeling a bit thirsty, The Lazy Lizard Bar is just a couple of steps away from the water.

There are only three main roads in town, all sandy. Front Street runs along the east coast, Back Street along the west coast, and Middle Street exactly where you'd expect it. The vast majority of places of interest to a visitor will be found along Front Street and the west coast.

The local cultural influences are Mestizo, Garifuna, and Creole.

On early British maps the island's name is spelled Cay Corker. Known historically for its plentiful supply of exposed fresh water at La Aguada, one theory holds that this island was a favourite stop for sailors to replenish and cork water bottles. The Spanish name of the island is Cayo Hicaco, which means "the island of the cocoplum." "Caye Caulker" could be an anglicised pronunciation of Cayo Hicaco. Another theory is that boats were caulked in the protected bay, La Ensenada, on the western side of the island leading to the "Caulker" name.

Its population started to rise when Mestizo refugees fleeing the Mexican Caste Wars (1847-1901) arrived. With few inhabitants, food could be grown with sustainable methods of agriculture. The coconut and the fishing industry became important economic staples of the island. Even today, a few of the older women continue to process coconut oil for their own use and to sell, although generally the coconuts are harvested and shipped to the mainland.

Get in

If you're coming in from Mexico, you can fly from Corozal, 20 minutes from the Mexican border at Chetumal. The flights stop in Ambergris and Caye Caulker if there's demand, and will save you the more than 4-hour bus ride to Belize City.

Catch a water taxi in Belize City or Ambergris Caye to . They have frequent runs to the island everyday rain or shine. The ride takes about 45 minutes, and then it continues on to San Pedro. On windy days the trip can be a little rough, but most times it's smooth. Sit towards the back of the boat for a smoother ride.

(Check their website for departures). Caribbean Sprinter is located at the foot of the Swing Bridge in Belize City. (Check their website for departures). Boats leave Belize City from the Brown Sugar Marketplace at 9AM, 11AM, noon, 1PM, 3PM, 4PM and 5:30PM to Caye Caulker and from San Pedro on the beach by the park every hour and a half starting at 7AM.

Tickets can be bought at the Maritime Terminal or Muelle Fiscal if the boat isn't full. (Aug 2023)

Get around

There are only three main streets on Caye Caulker, namely Front Street, Middle Street and Back Street, none of which are paved. Front Street, the easternmost street, is the busiest and has almost everything for tourists on it. Everything is within walking distance, it takes approximately 20 minutes to slow-walk from the Front Pier to almost anywhere.

Everyone gets around on golf carts, bicycles or on foot. With a golf cart, you can go around the entire island in 30 minutes.

There are many places on the island that rent bicycles.

For golf carts check with C&N Golf Cart Rentals and Caye Caulker Golf Cart Rentals.

See

The Forest Reserve covers the northern 40 ha (100 acres) of the island. It's mostly dense mangrove forest. The local Audubon group sometimes organizes morning birdwatching tours. Caye Caulker Marine Reserve, also known as the local reef. The local reef is close enough that you can see the waves breaking on it from the island itself.

Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Has been protected for longer than the local reef, and so it usually has more mature marine life (i.e. bigger fish) as well as more people, though it's never terribly crowded. It's further away than the local reef.

Shark and Ray Alley. Tour operators will toss food into the water in order to attract nurse sharks and southern sting rays. You can swim with them, and even touch them if you're quick. Nurse sharks can bite, contrary to myth, but they are also territorial so these sharks are very used to humans.

The Blue Hole. This is circular in shape, over 300 m (984 ft) across and 124 m (407 ft) deep, with many fish, sharks, and corals. The Blue Hole is possibly the most famous dive site in Belize, even though it's nearly straight down. It's at least an hour boat ride away from Caye Caulker. The dive depth is normally described as 40 m (130 ft), but you may go a bit deeper than that. The dive shops typically combine the blue hole dive with two shallower dives afterward, so you'll only be able to stay down at that depth for 5-10 minutes. Once you're down there, you'll take a look at the formations and probably see a few reef sharks. There's not much to it other than that, so many divers regard the trip as being overrated. It's just one of those things you'll want to check off your list as a diver. That said, most divers enjoy the two subsequent dives on the trip. Some of the less scrupulous dive shops will allow you to go on this dive if you don't have your advanced open water certification from PADI. This can be dangerous and you should consider the risks involved.

Do

Caye Caulker is a small, very laid-back Caribbean island. In fact, its motto is "Go Slow" and that is exactly what you should do. It is an ideal place to spend a few days while taking a break from travelling around the rest of Central America.

Chill out at The Lazy Lizard at "The Split," a little bar on its own near what can only be described as the island's only beach, however, do not expect Rio or Hawaii - there is no sand here. The "beach" is a sunken area of a picnic area surrounded by concrete seawalls. On the walls you'll see the young and hip lazing about, catching a tan. When it gets too hot, you can jump into the water and climb back again, or make the short walk to the Lazy Lizard to refresh your drink.

Much of the activity on the island centers around snorkeling and diving (about a dozen operators offering trips) and scuba diving. The prices at all the shops are basically the same. The local diving is at Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a 30-minute boat ride away. A little further out is Spanish Bay, Caye Chapel, and some other sites. Long distance trips to Turneffe Atoll and the famous Blue Hole are regularly available.

They usually leave at 10:30AM (back at 1PM) and 2:30PM. Stops include the local reef, the Coral Garden, and Shark and Ray Alley.

They usually leave around 10AM and return around 4:30PM. Stops include the Coral Garden, Shark and Ray Alley, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Be sure to check whether your tour guide will include lunch, since some only include snacks. Some of them include lunch, snacks, and a rum punch "happy hour" on the way back. With all operators, check to make sure they have equipment that is in good shape.

Every tour-operator has signed an agreement so they all have the same prices for the Hol Chan & Shark Ray Alley-Tours. (Aug 2023)

The creation of Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary - a manatee reserve near Belize City is due to the efforts of a Caye Caulker local named Chocolate. He offers guided tours to the Manatee reserve approximately every other day, as do a few other tour operators. Be warned that you don't get to swim with the manatees in the sanctuary and some days may be more difficult to see them. Most manatee tours include one or two snorkeling stops. Manatees can be seen all year long, and in the summer months can be seen near Hol Chan Marine Reserve as well as other local areas. The younger ones are curious and will swim close to you, unlike the more mature manatees, which generally avoid people (for good reason).

Carlos Tours. An eco-friendly full-day tour on a modern 44ft sailing catamaran with snorkelling guides (typically 1 per 6 guests). The tour includes Hol Chan Marine Reserve, good lunch on board, Shark-Ray Alley, Coral Gardens and rum punch on the way home. It's about BZD20.

Reef Friendly Tours. Eco-tours. They explicitly don't feed the sharks, they use reusable boxes for lunch and let you refill your bottle with water.

Diving Caye Caulker is popular with divers and there are several dive shops on the island. Contact them a few days in advance to find out what their schedule is. PADI certified dive shops are available offering recreational diving and open water courses. These courses normally take 3–4 days, providing the weather is fair. The certification includes 2 shallow-water dives, and 4 open-water dives. All dives are done in the ocean.

The local dive shops all offer dive trips to the Blue Hole, Hol Chan Marine Reserve, Caye Caulker Marine Reserve, Spanish Bay, Turneffe North, and Turneffe Elbow, prices vary depending on the dive site.

Frenchie's Diving Services. Run by a Belizean. Very friendly and laid back. PADI Certified.

There are also operators on nearby Ambergris Caye that can pick you up if the local shops aren't going where you want.

Tsunami Adventures. This is a great way to explore the northern mangrove forest. Head for the leeward side of the island (the west side) for smoother water and to avoid paddling into the wind.

You can also book various activities at many places on the island, such as

Sailing tours. Sleeping on little islands, snorkeling, fishing your own meal, a wonderful experience. Manatee watching Tours normally include a snorkeling stop at Sergeant's Caye (on the barrier reef) and a short visit to St. George's Caye. There are many tour operators out of Caye Caulker, San Pedro and Belize City who do manatee watching trips. Visit Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary that was set up by Chocolate Heredia, Belizean native and award winning conservationist. 3,600 ha (9,000 acres) of sea and mangrove became a protected area in July 2002. For more information see the Friends of Swallow Caye.

Buy

Prices will be posted in Belizean dollars, but always confirm before making a purchase.

There are two ATMs on the island. One ATM is at Atlantic Bank (no fees) and the other at Credit Union. Often on holiday weekends, ATMs run out of money, so stock up on your money in Belize City.

Gift shops along the Front Street sell mainly t-shirts, hammocks, and souvenirs. Vendors can be found along the main street selling a variety of crafts and jewelry.

Groceries Large American-style supermarkets are not found on Caye Caulker. Convenience stores and tiny grocery stores with limited selection are what is available.

Amigo Convenient Store. Convenience store. Just north of the ferry terminal.

Bahia Grocery Store. Small grocery store.

Eat

Auntie's Take Out Food. Stewed chicken, baked chicken, rice and bean and cow foot soup.

Bambooze Beach Bar and Grill. Good fish and shrimp dishes, chicken is also available. Features swings instead of chairs at some tables and the bar. Friendly hostess.

Caye Caulker Bakery. Serves a mixture of sweet and savoury foods. The ham and cheese turnover, if available, is exceedingly delicious and is a filling breakfast on its own.

Amor y Café. This is a great (though small) breakfast place on Front Street just south of Dock Street. They offer home-made bread, yoghurt and fruit juices.

Errolyn's House of Fryjacks. Puffy pillows of fried dough filled with breakfast ingredients. Cheap and delicious, Eat on verandah or take out.

Lotus by Habaner. A short boat ride north of The Split. The boat shuttle leaves at the Bambooze dock next to the Sports Bar. Thai and Southeast Asian inspired cuisine.

Drink

There is not much to do in the night in regards to partying. While nearby Ambergris Caye is known for its nightlife, Caye Caulker is more relaxed and most bars shut down before midnight. The I&I Reggae Bar and Oceanside Night Club are the only bars with dancefloors. Holidays and long weekends are when events and dances are held on the island by individual committees of the island.

I&I Reggae Bar. Nice vibes and hang out spot to meet with friends or meet new friends. Great place to relax on a hammock or swing with a cocktail. From the top deck you can see the whole island, eerily peaceful at night.

The Split is the place where hurricane Hattie split the island in two in 1961, a bit of dredging and currents subsequently formed the split. There is a bar just next to the split called the . Good place for a bench while watching large tarpons and rays just swimming by.

Bender's Beach Bar. Great manager Alex.

Sleep

Caye Caulker offers a good spread of high quality lodging facilities ranging from budget accommodation to higher end hotels and serviced apartments.

Anchorage Resort. Possibly has the nicest beach on the island. The rooms have A/C, TV, hot water and fridge, and are all in one concrete building with a great ocean view.

Blue Wave Guesthouse. Rooms with balcony, cableTV, private bathroom. Nice and new.

CayeReef Beachfront Boutique Condo Hotel. Boutique apartment hotel with 6 spacious units accommodating 2-6 guests.

Chila's Accommodations. Ideal for the budget traveller. On the beach front. Nice sea view, private hot/cold shower, cableTV, fridge, coffee pot, microwave, toaster, balcony with hammock. Split unit A/C, 1 double bed, WiFi and complementary bicycles. Good for a couple or a single person and safe for females traveling alone.

Colinda Cabanas. Beachfront location facing the reef with frequent easterly breeze. All units have hot and cold reverse osmosis purified water, fridge, coffee pot with beans and grinder, several fans, large porches and hammocks. Daily maid service, complimentary kayaks, snorkel gear and bicycles. A 175-ft (53-m) dock with palapa and hammocks, safe swimming area.

Da Real Macaw. Great place, quiet, hammocks on porches right across from beach.

Iguana Reef Inn. Hotel with private pool, beach, dock, free continental breakfasts, safes and small refrigerators in each room, A/C, free WiFi and shower. They have their own bar. No children under 10 years old allowed.

Oasi. 3-room guest house south of downtown, near the airstrip. Each suite has a kitchen, porch with hammock and free use of bicycles.

Ocean Pearl Royale Hotel & Cabanas. 5 hotel rooms, and 7 apartments and cabanas for those who want to stay longer. Sensibly-priced but bedrooms can be noisy with louvred windows facing on to sitting area. Friendly Austrian host messages you daily to see if you want any help.

Palm Life Limited. Two 559-sq-ft condos that sleep 3 guests each with full kitchen, bathroom, 400-sq-ft verandas.

Popeyes Beach Resort. Rooms with balcony, TV, hot and cold shower, private bathroom, Free WiFi.

Tree Tops Guesthouse. Immaculately clean and very comfortable rooms, with charming garden 50 yards from the water's edge.