Battambang.
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Overview

Battambang (Khmer: ក្រុងបាត់ដំបង) with about 119,000 people (2019), is Cambodia's second most populous city, and a popular tourist destination due to the nearby ancient temples, the circus and the bamboo railway. It is the capital of Battambang Province (population 987,000 in 2019).

Understand

Despite being Cambodia's second largest city, Battambang is often overlooked in favor of the more popular Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Battambang is quieter, less commercial and cheaper, and provides an opportunity to see a slightly less Westernized Cambodian city. Remnants of French colonial architecture can be spotted around the city, and there are food and lodging options that will cater to most budgets and tastes.

Get in

By road National Hwy 5 from Phnom Penh is around 5 hours. Hwy 5 runs northwest to Sisophon and Poipet. At Sisophon (1 hr), Hwy 6 branches off to Siem Reap (also a rough trip in parts).

PP Sorya buses previously went from Battambang to Bangkok, and Poipet (though this has been suspended until further notice since 2025 after the Thai/Cambodia border conflict).

An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boat threads its way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take between 6–12 hours, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

During the dry season, when the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang, and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up truck.

Get around

On foot The city center is pretty compact and can be mostly explored by foot. Unhappily, the locals have named the main cross-street 'Pub Street', after the street of the same name in Siem Reap - which it doesn't resemble at all.

Battambang's roads and footpaths have deteriorated fairly dramatically since COVID, with potholes aplenty in both.

The driving habits of locals are hazardous. Police may try to fine tourists on motorbikes.

By taxi Tuk-tuks and motorbike drivers hang around popular tourist areas.

A few tuk tuk drivers such as Sam Bo (093 255 505) and Chan (081 625 554) have excellent English. Don't be too stingy with tips. Tuk tuk and motorcycle taxi guys make barely enough to live, especially in the low season.

By boat Small boats serve as ferries (500 riel) and cross the river from in front of the market.

See

Battambang Circus. The shows are fun, energetic and exciting and include a range of circus disciplines.

Phnom Sampeu. A hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few others caves adorned with Buddhist statues, and a monastery with two Buddhist stupas on the hilltop. The admission charge also includes Wat Banan. It takes about 1 hr to climb the circuit to the monastery on top, with a short-cut leading back down to the shops and restaurants which line the approach road.

Wat Banan. The so-called mini-Angkor Wat, an impressive flight of stairs lead up to a dilapidated Angkor-style temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine.

Statues. Battambang is known for its statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (both mythical and real) and deities.

Lok Ta Dambong Kra Nhoung. The most famous of these statues (Lok Ta Dambong Kra Nhoung) is on the main road from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town and province derives from this legend.

Wat Baydamram. A temple where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the Buddhist monks.

Wat Ek Phnom. Angkor-type temple ruin. The road runs along lovely small rivers flanked by trees and small villages making it a generally nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom, you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat, which is certainly picture-worthy. The grounds of the wat also have an Angkorian-era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.

Wat Samrong Knong. Roughly translates as "wat in the forest". An extremely old pagoda on the east side of the Sangker River. The eerie old wat was used as a Khmer Rouge prison, and there were many executions on the premises. A new pagoda is now being built, and there is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, with graphic illustrations, just to the north.

Battambang Provincial Museum. Established in 1963, the Battambang Provincial Museum houses a small but impressive collection of Khmer artifacts. The core of the collection is statutes and temple pieces dating from the advent of Hindu and Buddhist religion in Cambodia all the way through the Angkor period. There is also a notable collection of neolithic artifacts from the Laang Spean site. The museum has been renovated, and all artifacts have English-Khmer signage.

Do

Head to The Real Place Hostel for competitive priced tours.

Bamboo Train. The term "train" is here used loosely: a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine. A trip on the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. Ask the driver to pause at scenic places. The old Bamboo Train service was terminated as the tracks were rehabilitated for the reopening of the line to Poipet and Phnom Penh. The current Bamboo Train runs on a new purpose-built track: it takes about 10 minutes to get to a stop where you can buy drinks and t-shirts; it then returns along the same route.

Soksabike Tours. Soksabike is a social enterprise dedicated to sustainable tourism in Battambang. They offer half day and full day bike tours around the countryside where guests can learn about the everyday life and culture of Cambodia. The money for the tour is distributed to families in the community along the way and goes to pay the salaries of the guides, all local university students. They use high-quality mountain bikes, provide a helmet and even include a coffee at one of the best cafes in town. Hotel pickup included and group discounts are available.

Green Orange Kayak. Go on a beautiful Stung Sangker River voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy to Battambang, past riverside terraces and traditional bamboo houses. Get away from the dusty roads and learn first hand about traditional fishing and farming techniques. Half-day trip, 11 km.

Volunteer Teaching English. Stay at a home stay in Samroang Khnong Village and volunteer to help teach English to children. Call Mr Sophorn and he will pick you up from town and make you very welcome indeed. No experience or special skills are required, just a willingness to help the delightful local children speak a bit more English.

Battambang Countryside trip. Offers tuk-tuk day trips to the countryside surrounding Battambang including seeing local crafts, temples and other major sites. Customised trips available.

Ch'Ngainh Ch'Ngainh. A homey, familial approach to cookery conducted in a family home.

Nary's Kitchen. Battambang's original cooking school, and still highly popular. Hotel pick-up, market tour to buy ingredients.

Smokin' Pot. You'll meet Chef-owner Vannak outside the restaurant and go by tuk-tuk to a produce market south of town to buy herbs, vegetables and fish; then you'll go to his house outside of town and spend about two hours cooking up several Khmer dishes. The patio-turned-training-kitchen is authentically Khmer, an insight into how most of Cambodia cooks and eats. Vannak's is very knowledgable about Khmer cuisine and speaks excellent English, so everyone (from amateurs to pro cooks) will learn something.

Buy

There are two large markets in the center, its easy to spot them on a map.

Psar Nath & Psar Boeung Chhoeuk (Public markets). Fruit stalls.

Eat

Battambang's culinary traditions and reputation for producing high quality fruit, vegetables and rice led to it being designated in October 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City in the gastronomy category.

There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended.

You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road. Some people do not notice any difference between the bread sold in the north and elsewhere in Battambang. It is generally of decent quality all across the city.

Pomme Hostel, Bar & Restaurant. Khmer cuisine with a French twist, sophisticated and creative with pleasant staff. Wine list.

Au Cabaret Vert Restaurant. Traditional Cambodian dishes, their speciality is fish amok, complemented by a French-style menu that includes desserts and wine.

Cafe Eden. Western-style river front cafe restaurant run by an American woman. Serves Western and Asian food, and coffee. Kitchen works to Western food handling and preparation standards.

Coconut Lyly. Offers a nice compact menu with mainly Khmer dishes. The food is recommendable.

Flavors of India, Street 121 (Near intersection with Road 1.5), . 11:00–22:00. Excellent North Indian dishes with local and imported beers, lassi and noteworthy entrees.

Gecko Cafe. Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu. Free Wi-Fi.

Smokin' Pot. This Battambang mainstay offers a good variety of Khmer, Thai and Western food in an aging-yet-charming setting that echoes the city itself. Vegetarian friendly. Good drinks.

White Rose. Huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. This place is a bit more 'Asian' than Western, but is still full of foreigners. Service is chaotic, food is quite good, and the upstairs provides one of the few Battambang eateries where you get an outlook and a breeze.

Heng Chhay Ly Food Court (3rd Floor).

Nary Kitchen. Home of Battambang's original cooking school, this restaurant remains highly popular. Nice shakes. Host speaks fluent English and French. Central.

Drink

Espresso Cafe. Everything is provided with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant.

Kinyei Cafe. Good cafe menu with a few snacks but mainly just excellent coffee and drinks. Cool alleyway atmosphere.

The Place (Rooftop bar). Open air ambience.

Miss Wong Battambang. Nice stained glass lamp with subdued lighting.

Sleep

The Real Place Hostel. Cheapest place in town and main center of the backpacker concentration. The place is often disliked by the other accommodations for its cheap prices. The dorm is good, probably not the most fancy one, but the ground floor is great for hanging around and socialise.

Seng Hout Hotel. Good hotel with elevator and large reception area. Rooms have air-con or optional cheaper fan, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, refrigerator, hot and cold water, and en suite bathroom. Swimming pool. Rooftop with 360⁰ views. (There is a new Seng Hout a few doors from the original - on the corner facing the market. They're of roughly equal quality.)

Ganesha Family Guest House. Dorm and rooms. Run by a German guy, but he keeps neglecting the place a little.

Frist Hotel. 6-bed dorm and rooms. Security lockers. Free wifi. Hot water.

Por Chey. Spacious place and decent dorms, but the high walls in the rooms and washroom invite for a lot of mosquitos. Even during the day, hanging in the outdoor, roofed chill area can be annoying, but this might depend on the time of year.

Banan Hotel. Close to bus station and city centre. Helpful staff. Free Wi-Fi, free bicycles.

Khemara Battambang Hotel. Very comfortable beds, clean rooms with Internet access (LAN cable, but in some rooms a connection from a nearby Wi-Fi network is available), TV, air-con, fan and a fridge. Car parking possible. Also has great outdoor swimming pool.

Lux Guest House. Rooms include hot water, air-con, fan, cable TV, free Wi-Fi, fridge, and minibar. Rooms are big clean and nicely decorated, as goes for the entire hotel. Staff are friendly, helpful and a little bit shy. Location is close to nice eating places and at a road which is lighted at night.

Phka Villa Hotel/Resort. 10 en suite bungalow rooms, 13 m x 18 m swimming pool, free Internet and in-room Wi-Fi, free bicycles, free shuttle to town, airport shuttle (surcharge), car or taxi arranged. All rooms have hot water, air-con, fan, network cable LCD TV, DVD player, in-room safe, mini bar, hair dryer, bathrobe, toiletries. 2 private terraces, one is sun terrace facing the swimming pool. Restaurant and bar open from 06:00–24:00.

President Hotel. Incompetently run with plumbing leaks and reception can rarely help with anything. Quite new and quite cheap for a nice room with modern conveniences.

Au Cabaret Vert. Bungalows around a natural swimming pool.

Bambu Hotel. 16 rooms, including 4 suite rooms (32 m² including bath), 6 deluxe superior rooms (27 m² including bath), 4 deluxe standard rooms (27 m² including bath). Free Wi-Fi, 2 computers in reception for use by guests, salt water swimming pool (14 m x 6) open from 08:00–21:00. Restaurant open 06:00–22:00.

La Villa. Guesthouse with a swimming pool in a renovated 1930s French colonial period villa, Art Deco furniture and fittings. 7 rooms (6 in the main house and 1 in the house nearby the swimming pool). Each room has a private toilet with bath or shower, hot and cold water, air-con, fan, TV and cable network, 4 poster bed with mosquito net, light summer duvet, wardrobe, work desk, safe, coffee and tea facilities, DVD player with DVD for rent. Book ahead as it is often full.