Bago (Myanmar).
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Overview

Bago or Pegu (Burmese ပဲခူးမြို့), formerly Hanthawaddy, is the capital city of Bago Division in the Irrawaddy region and the 4th biggest city of Myanmar with a population of 254,000 (as of 2014).

Understand

Many visitors will want to leave this city as fast as possible, which is not quite justified. The sunset from the top of Mahazedi Pagoda provides for a stunning view with many pagodas sticking out of the green surrounding and a Buddha lying and relaxing in between. If you are in a rush, you can still visit the main attractions within 3-4 hr by hiring a motorcycle and then hop on your onward transportation.

Get in

By bus The can easily be reached by foot. If you are planning to change buses in Bago beware that you are not necessarily dropped off there but at the close to San Francisco Hotel. This is especially true for buses from the south and also from Inle Lake in the north. This is not true, and you can easily walk or get transport to the main bus station where prices are more reasonable.

Yangon – 3,000 kyat, 2 hr, every hour from 07:00. From the Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal but also the corner of Strand and Sule Pagoda Rd. A cheaper option is to take bus 51 to Saw Bwar Gyi Gone Bus Station near the airport, from where a bus leaves to Bago. You can also catch buses at Kyaikto, which is directly at the highway, passing by from Hpa-an or Mawlamyine. Hpa-An – The bus is 5-7,000 kyat, takes 4-5 hr and leaves from the Clock Tower. Mawlamyine – AC Bus at 07:00,08:00, 09:00 and 12:30. 5-10,000 kyat. Inle Lake – There are at least three buses from Nyaung Shwe, 15:30, 17:30, and 18:30 which all arrive in the morning. They are 10-20,000 kyat.

Due to the highway between Mandalay and Yangon, all buses coming in from the north (Mandalay, Bagan, Naypyidaw) can also be used to get into Bago. Possibly, you will have to get off along the highway and do the last 26 km by pickup.

Scam warning: if coming from the south the bus will sometimes stop about 4 km outside the city. A rickshaw man will then come on the bus and tell you that the bus can't stop in the centre, this is a lie. Ignore him, stay on the bus and explain to the bus staff you want to go to the centre.

By train The train offers a hassle-free way to get out and into Yangon, since the Yangon train station is in the middle of the city, contrary to the Yangon bus stations. The prices for upper class are 1,150 kyat from Yangon (600 kyat for ordinary class), 3,150 kyat from Mawlamyine, about 9,000 kyat from Mandalay and about 5,000 kyat from Naypyidaw.

The central has many trains a day coming in from Yangon, leaving central Yangon at 06:00, 08:00, 11:00, 15:00, 17:00, 20:30 and arriving 2 hr later. There are another three trains from Mawlamyine, departing at 08:00, 19:30 and 20:55, passing by Kyaikto and arriving 7 hr 15 min later. Trains from Mandalay leave at 06:00, 15:00 and 17:00, stop at Thazi (after 2 hr 45 min), Naypyidaw (after 6 hr) and Taungoo (after 8-9 hr), and arrive 13 hr later. A shorter variant leaves Naypyidaw at 02:00, 08:00 and 20:00, stops at Taungoo (after 2-3 hr) and arrives 7-9 hr later.

A taxi is a very convenient (but still pricey) choice because you use it to see the sights in Bago, which are quite far apart. Also, you can stop at Taukkyan on the way.

Get around

Walk All of the sights in Bago can be reached on foot and are within 2 km of each other. However, with the heat or rain that may not be the best way. As a solution, you could combine single shared tuk-tuk rides (200 kyat) with walking. Especially the sights at the western end of the city (around Shwethalyaung Buddha) are all in walking distance, even the Mahazedi Paya is just 5-10 min from the reclining Buddha.

Bicycle They can be rented at several places, ask your hotel or at San Fransisco Hotel, and are a good way to explore the city if the heat is not too bad.

Shared ride Many shared tuk-tuks and pickups are available along the main roads. Do not pay more for transportation than the locals do: 200 kyat for a shared tuk-tuk or pickup ride. However, often motorbike and tuk-tuk drivers will approach you in mob fashion and try to convince you to pay up to 1,000 kyat. Just walk away from them and try to stop a passing tuk-tuk/pickup – along the main road you'll never have a problem getting one. However, seldom they are not available at certain places.

Motorbike You can hire motorbikes or tuk-tuk for a whole day for 6,000 kyat, if you discuss a bit, just the bike without driver. This is only worth the money if you are more people or if you want to be sightseeing the whole day from dawn until dusk. Otherwise, single, shared tuk-tuk rides will always be cheaper. Especially the sights at the western end of the city are all in walking distance (20 min or less).

Private ride You can get private tuk-tuks or motorbikes at most street corners and sights, however they charge more and will try to rip you off (they want up to 1,000 kyat for a ride, 5,000 kyat for an hour). In that case, just walk away and ask a different one or get a shared tuk-tuks/pickup. Locals pay 500 kyat for a motorbike ride.

Taxi drivers may suggest avoiding the 10,000 kyat government fee for visiting certain pagodas. Make sure you agree on how much extra you're willing to give him for this service as he may demand/expect the 10,000 kyat in return. The fee is only enforced at two places. Easy to avoid it, no need for taxi drivers.

See

An official government fee of 10,000 kyat is required to visit most of the sights in Bago. However, it is only strictly enforce at Shwethar Lyaung Pagoda, Shwe Mawdaw Pagoda and KanBawZaThadi.

Mahazedi Pagoda. A large ancient stupa, which looks quite new due to restorations. Only men are allowed to climb up to the top, from where there is an awesome view of the city. Overall, this stupa is more impressive than the Shwe Mawdaw Pagoda, which looks quite average and is similar to the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon.

Shwemawdaw Pagoda. At 114 m in height, the Shwemawdaw is the tallest pagoda in the country. It is similar to the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon or the Uppatasanti Pagoda in Naypyidaw, but somewhat less impressive.

KanBawZaThadi / Golden Palace & National Museum. This palace and its enclosed museum contain some important history information about the city and the surrounding area, especially the ancient fortress Bago apparently was in the past. The museum is not very excessive, but worth a visit if you already have paid the government fee.

Shwetharlyaung Temple. Home to a famous reclining Buddha, which at the length of 55 m and a height of 16 m, which is one of the largest ones behind the one in Mawlamyine and the one in Dawei (Tavoy). The Buddha is believed to have been built in 994, during the reign of Mon King Migadepa.

Myatha Lyaung Buddha. Probably more beautiful than the one in Shwethar Lyaung Pagoda. This is the one that looks beautiful within the green surrounding as seen from the top of Mahazedi Pagoda. Directly west of it is a small lake with dozens of turtles that turn up when it is feeding time right before sunset. When walking through the temple gardens, take off your shoes. It is possible to walk through the monastery where many monks are living, just ask for the way.

Laymyatnar Buddha. A complex of four standing Buddhas facing each geographic direction. Only worth it if you are already in that area, e.g. for the reclining Buddha or the Mahazedi Pagoda.

Maha Kalyani Sima. More Buddha statues.

Kyaik Pun Pagoda. Most notably the home of the Four Seated Buddha shrine, a 27-m statue depicting the Buddha seated in four positions, sitting back to back.

Snake Pagoda & Shwetaungyoe Pagoda. If you have never seen a big snake or python, this one looks quite nice. Otherwise the trip (the monastery is a bit off the track) is not worth it. If you're already there, you can go to the Shwetaungyoe Pagoda just north on a small hilltop, which provides great sights over the city. Overall, the hillside pagoda is more impressive than the Snake Pagoda.

Hinthagon Pagoda. A famous pagoda to the east of Shwemawdaw Pagoda that's very much worth visiting.

Sein Thar Lyaung Pagoda. Known for its large, open-air reclining Buddha image. It is one of three major reclining Buddha statues in the area, along with the more famous, Shwethalyaung Buddha and the Mya Thar Lyaung Buddha.

Do

Except for walking or driving around and visiting the numerous sights, not much more can be done in Bago.

Eat

Many small and local kitchens are spread all over town, serving soup, noodles and other typical Burmese food. They are reasonably clean if frequented well. Many dished go for under 1,000 kyat or even under 500 kyat.

Market stalls. The morning market has many vendors with traditional foods.

Clock tower. Outdoor tables, cold beer and welcoming atmosphere. Look for the Myanmar beer sign, but they will have other brands as well, such as Tiger, for those who are avoiding government-sponsored products. Bottle of Tiger beer 1,800 kyat, pork noodles with side of soup and condiments 1,500 kyat.

Star King. Ice cream shop. Free WiFi. Snacks, sandwiches, fruit juice, coffee, beer. The noodle dishes are recommended.

Drink

On the east side of the train station and rail tracks a lot of typical (and sometimes dodgy) Myanmar beer pubs can be found. Otherwise, try the place nearby the clock tower described in the previous chapter.

Sleep

For the hotels along the main road always ask for a room in the back, because this road is where all traffic from Yangon to the east goes through, also at night.

Kanbawza Hinthar Hotel. This 3-star hotel opened in 2014. Nice and perfectly clean bungalows with flatscreen TV and air conditioning.

Bago Star Hotel. Friendly hotel with a swimming pool. 26 bungalows, but dark and shady rooms without much chique. Includes breakfast. Very quiet due to its location. However, too pricey for the service and quality provided.

Emperor Hotel. Rooms facing the road suffer hugely from traffic noise. Rooms to the rear are quieter, but you will certainly be aware of the mosque behind the hotel. Rooms are small and looking quite shabby. You get better value for money at the Mya Nanda Hotel across the street. WiFi included.

Mya Nanda Hotel. Although it looks worse than Emperor Hotel from the outside, the rooms are nicer and bigger. Additionally it has Internet. Same as for Emperor, the rooms facing the road suffer hugely from traffic noise. Breakfast and WiFi included.

San Francisco Motel. This motel is run by a couple of friendly women, nice and clean rooms although only with fan, no air-con. They have WiFi.