Baghdad.
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Overview

Baghdad (Arabic: بـغداد Baġdād) is the capital and largest city of Iraq, with an estimated population of 6-7 million. Once one of the greatest centres of learning and culture in the world, Baghdad was the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate during the Islamic Golden Age. It was once a favoured destination on the 'hippie trail' and is packed full of sights.

Understand

History Founded in 762 CE by caliph al-Mansur as the Round City, Baghdad became the seat of the Abbasid Caliphate and grew into one of the largest scientific centres in the Islamic world during the Golden Age of Islam. Five centuries of peace came to an end in 1258 when the city was destroyed by the Mongols who advanced westwards. After a period of Ottoman rule, Baghdad became the capital of Iraq under a British protectorate and as an independent state. Since then, Baghdad has been subject to war, terrorist attacks and attempts at reconstruction.

Get in

The national airline is Iraqi Airways that operates a growing fleet of more than 30 modern jets. They mainly provide domestic flights but Iraqi Airways also offers flights to numerous international destinations, including a few routes from Europe. Numerous other operators in the Middle East also fly to Baghdad, with daily flights from most regional hubs. The best way to travel from Europe is either with Austrian or Turkish Airlines. They operate several direct flights per week from Vienna and daily from Istanbul respectively. For those working for Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) in Iraq, there are charter airlines operating into Baghdad.

The frequent sandstorms that hit the area can obscure visibility and cause flights to be turned away. It is not unusual for commercial flights to make it all the way to BIAP, and then turn around and return to their origin due to limited visibility on the runway.

By train Baghdad is the heart of Iraqs' limited railway system. International trains, such as the famous Taurus Express from Istanbul, have been suspended since 2003 and are not likely to return for the foreseeable future. However, there are several domestic services which are useful for tourists. An overnight service connects Baghdad with the southern port city of Basra every night. The train also carries a restaurant car.

There are twice-daily trains from Ramadi via Fallujah and a weekly service from Samarra. Additionally, there are seasonal services from Karbala, mostly during religious festivals.

By car Overland travel is possible from all neighbouring countries and while major roads are generally in an acceptable condition, travelling by car is strongly discouraged due to violence. Baghdad is in the centre of Iraq's highway network; the major thoroughfare is Freeway 1 from Basra, which continues west towards the Jordanian border. Confusingly, the road from Mosul is named Highway 1.

Multiple daily buses arrive from most major Iraqi cities. Long-distance bus services from Istanbul and Ankara restarted in the summer of 2018, with two departures per week. However journey time is a gruelling 30 hours or more. Most long-distance buses arrive at the sprawling (گراج العلاوي), next to the central station. Buses leave and arrive from stands both north and south of the Allawi skyway.

Get around

While the almost daily bombings and shootings have subsided, there is always a risk of getting caught in violence when travelling around the city. Staying vigilant is essential. Many high-end hotels provide their own transport, some even with armoured cars.

Baghdad is served by an extensive but chaotic bus network; maps and route information for the network are not available in English. Taxis are also plentiful and quite cheap to use. Walking is possible in parts of the city, especially in and around the old city. Cycling is not uncommon among locals, but there is next to no infrastructure to support it.

See

A combination of heavy redevelopment during the second half of the 20th century, two decades of warfare and neglect has not been kind to Baghdad's architectural and cultural heritage. Generally, the eastern side contains the older districts while the western side is newer. The historic old quarter contains a myriad of alleys and small streets with buildings dating back to the Ottoman era or even older. Many of them are unfortunately in various stages of disrepair. The old quarter is also home to the heart and soul of Iraqi literacy and intellectual community, Mutanabbi Street. The street is lined with bookstores and outdoor book stalls as well as cafés to discuss matters of the day.

Mustansiriya Madrasah. Often referred to as the Abbasid Palace, this medieval-era scholarly complex was established in 1227 CE. It's one of the oldest buildings still standing in Baghdad and a central landmark in the historic district.

Qushla building. Ottoman landmark building.

Baghdad Zoo. The largest zoo in the country, opened in 1971. It was destroyed in the 2003 war but has quickly recovered. There are, however, few larger mammals to see.

Khan Murjan. Built in the 14th century as a caravanserai, an inn for traveling merchants, whose centre was a hall more than 13 metres high.

Firdos Square. A public open space surrounded by several artwork monuments.

National Museum of Iraq. Covering the history of Mesopotamian culture, this museum housed a huge collection before the Iraq War. Many pieces were looted, but in 2022, the museum was refurbished and reopened.

Baghdadi Museum. History and folklore museum depicting life in Baghdad.

National Museum of Modern Art. While much of the rich heritage of modern Iraqi art has been lost or stolen during the recent decades, the Museum of Modern Art still holds an impressive collection.

Abdel-Karim Kassem Museum. Small museum dedicated to the leader of the 14 July Revolution, Abdel-Karim Kassem, who overthrew the Iraqi monarchy in 1958.

Monuments, memorials and public art Baghdad is home to many monumental monuments and displays of public art. Many were built during the dictatorship of Saddam Hussein and evoke mixed feelings among locals, while others are universally loved. A large number of high-profile public sculptures were made by Mohammed Ghani Hikmat (1929-2011), nicknamed the sheik of sculptors.

Monument to the Unknown Soldier. Inspired by the glorification of a martyr from the Iran–Iraq War. The monument represents a traditional shield (dira¹a) dropping from the dying grasp of an Iraqi warrior. The monument used to house a museum which is now mostly empty. Ask the Iraqi soldiers who guard the monument for permission.

Al-Shaheed Monument. First built as a monument dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers who died in the Iran-Iraq war. Since the fall of Saddam Hussein in 2003, it has been repurposed to a monument for all Iraqi martyrs including victims of his regime. The monument consists of a circular platform 190 metres in diameter in the centre of an artificial lake. A museum, library, cafeteria, lecture hall, and exhibition gallery are on two levels underneath the domes.

Swords of Qādisīyah. A huge pair of triumphal arches celebrating the alleged victory over Iran. Also known as the Hands of Victory. It marks the entrances to a former parade ground. In Ba'athist times, lavish victory parades and commemorations were a common event, showcasing military power and Saddam Hussein's cult of personality. Two arches feature thousands of captured Iranian helmets, symbolizing victory over Iran in the 1980s.

Freedom Monument. Located at the epicenter of Baghdadi civic life, the Tahrir square, this iconic and massive sculpture is one of the city's most well-loved monuments. Completed in 1961, the sculpture spans almost 50 meters in length and features bronze castings depicting the history of Iraq.

Kahramana. Depicting a scene from the legend of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves, in which the slave girl Marjana outwitted the thieves by tricking them into hiding inside jars over which she poured hot oil.

Save Iraqi culture monument. Built in 2010, meant to remind Iraqis on the fragility of its cultural heritage.

Ashaar Baghdad. Dedicated to the poetry of Baghdad.

North Gate War Cemetery. A Commonwealth War Graves cemetery, commemorating military personnel killed in Iraq during World War I and World War II.

Abu Hanifa Mosque. One of Baghdad's most prominent Sunni mosques, it surrounds the tomb of Abu Hanifa, the founder of the Hanafi school of Islamic jurisprudence.

Al-Kadhimiya Mosque. One of the most important Shi'ite religious sites in Iraq. It was finished in 1515 and the 7th Musa ibn Jafar al-Kathim and the 9th Imams Mohammed Al-Jawad were buried there.

Al-Asifyah Mosque. A complex of mosque, madrasa with school buildings, old courts and other former government buildings, and a palace. Together they form a complex that is a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Al-Khulafa Mosque. Oldest mosque in Baghdad with parts dating back to 902 AD.

Al-Wazeer Mosque. Built in the 1660s.

Al-Sarai Mosque. Sunni mosque completed in 1293 AD.

Buratha Mosque. Historic mosque complex, with some parts previously used as a Christian monastery.

Haydar-Khana Mosque. Considered one of the finest examples of the Ottoman constructions in Baghdad.

Umm al-Qura Mosque. A mosque built to commemorate the "victory" in the 1991 Gulf War, the minarets are shaped like barrels of guns and SCUD missiles.

Zumurrud Khatun Mosque and Mausoleum. Historic mosque and shrine, dating back to the Abbasid era.

Mausoleum of Abdul Qadir Gilani. Mosque and mausoleum dedicated to Abdul Qadir Gilani, an 11th century mystic who was the founded of the Qadiriyya Sufi Order.

Mausoleum of Umar Suhrawardi. A historic complex of a mausoleum and a mosque dating back to the Abbasid era and is dedicated to Shahab al-Din Abu Hafs Umar Suhrawardi, the founder of Suhrawardiyya Sufi Order.

Uzbek Mosque. Historic mosque built by Uzbek immigrants during the 17th century.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Sorrows. Built in 1898, it is the seat of the Chaldean Catholic Patriarchate of Babylon.

St. Joseph's Cathedral. Seat of the Archdiocese of Baghdad, the current building dates back to 1866.

Sayidat al-Nejat Cathedral. The main Syriac Catholic Church in Baghdad. Constructed in 1968, in a striking modernist style.

St. Gregory the Great Armenian Church.

St George's Church. Anglican church, built in 1936.

Synagogues and Jewish heritage Iraq was home to a large Jewish population until the early 1950s. Many left for Israel, often forcefully displaced by the government. Today, only fragments remain of Baghdad's Jewish heritage and there are just a handful of Jews residing in the city.

Great Synagogue of Baghdad. Formerly the main synagogue in Baghdad, now abandoned and neglected. Said to be built on the site of a former synagogue, built by King Jeconiah, who was exiled from the Land of Israel to Babylon, in 597 BCE.

Meir Taweig Synagogue. Only remaining active synagogue. Small and unassuming, visits have to be booked beforehand.

Tomb of Joshua the High Priest. One of several tombs claiming to be the tomb of Joshua, the first High Priest at the reconstruction of the Jewish Temple after the return of the Jews from the Babylonian Captivity around 500 BCE.

Al-Habibiyah Jewish Cemetery. With the historic Jewish cemetery in central Baghdad destroyed, this is where most Jewish graves have been relocated to.

Baba Nanak Shrine. Ruins of a Sikh gurdwara, house of worship, and shrine dedicated to Baba Nanak who was the founder of Sikhism and visited Baghdad in the 16th century. Little remains of the shrine but remains a popular place to visit for Indian Sikhs who comes to Baghdad.

Sabian Mandi of Baghdad. A mandaean temple.

Palaces and landmarks During the reign of Saddam Hussein, a large number of palaces were built. While not tourist sites per se, they can be of interest to the intrepid traveller. Many are in various states of disrepair and might not be open to the public.

Al-Faw Palace. Also known as the Water Palace for its site beside the Tigris River. Used as a military base for US troops

As-Salam Palace. Home of former Iraqi dictator Saddam Hussein.

Republican Palace. Commissioned by King Faisal II in the 1950s as the new principal Royal residence. The palace serves as a key government building and can only be seen from outside.

Baghdad Clock. Landmark building with a striking large clock at the top.

Baghdad Tower. A TV tower. Was known in Ba'athist times as the International Saddam tower and is one of the tallest towers in Iraq. There's an observation deck at the top, which has been open intermittently.

Central Bank of Iraq Tower. Designed by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, this 37 story tower is set to become one of the most striking landmarks when completed in 2023.

Bab al-Wastani. Last remaining part of the historic Baghdad city wall.

Iraq Royal Cemetery. Mausoleum of the former royal family, King Faisal I (1883-1933), King Ghazi (1912-1939) and King Faisal II (1935-1958) are buried here.

Dur-Kurigalzu. Situated along an east-west-trending limestone ridge between the Euphrates and Tigris rivers, the town of Dur Kurigalzu was founded by the Kassite King Kurigalzu I in the late 15th or early 14th century BC. Today, the ruins contains among other a well-preserved ziggurat.

Shaduppum. Also known as Tell Harmal. The site has been occupied at least between 2100 BC and 1700 BC. Several artifacts from the site can be found in the Iraqi museums.

Taq Kasra. The largest single-span vault of unreinforced brickwork in the world and the last remaining structure of the ancient Sasanian capital of Ctesiphon. The arch stands over 30 m high and dates to the 3rd–6th century CE. The site is uncrowded and the scale of the ruin is impressive — one of the most rewarding day trips from Baghdad.

Do

Baghdad's cultural life is more vibrant than most visitors expect. Beyond the historical sites, the city offers riverside promenades, traditional markets worth exploring on foot, and day trips to some of Mesopotamia's most important archaeological sites.

Baghdad Island Park. Large outdoor amusement park with swimming pools, restaurants, cafés and an observation tower.

Abu Nawas Street. Baghdad's famous riverside promenade, named after the 8th-century poet. The street comes alive in the evenings with families, street food vendors, tea houses, and restaurants serving fresh masgouf (grilled carp). One of the best places to experience everyday Baghdadi social life.

Mutanabbi Street. Baghdad's historic booksellers' street, named after the 10th-century poet Al-Mutanabbi. Every Friday, the street hosts a bustling book market where vendors sell everything from rare Arabic manuscripts to secondhand novels. The nearby Shahbandar Café, one of Baghdad's oldest, is a popular stop. The street was badly damaged in a 2007 car bombing but has been fully rebuilt and remains the intellectual heart of the city.

Work

There are several ways to work in Iraq as a foreigner. For US citizens the most obvious is the US Army, which still maintains personnel here. Next are the government contractors, such as the construction company KBR. Many contractors hire personnel with prior military experience to return to Iraq. Persons with military experience or who are fluent in Arabic are especially sought after. Lastly, there are civilian government agencies in Iraq. USAID send their own personnel as well as contractors to Iraq.

The agencies above are all relevant for US citizens. Citizens of other countries with a presence in Iraq can apply for work through the respective agencies in their home country.

Buy

Rugs and DVDs are available to buy. Inspect the quality of rugs carefully: Some are cheap Chinese-made rugs, and many are extremely overpriced. Also, many DVDs, especially those from street vendors, are bootlegs of varying quality.

Baghdad Mall. Large upscale shopping mall in Baghdad, with both shops and restaurants.

Baghdad is home to several traditional markets with vendors that both produce and sell their goods at the same market. One traditional art is coppersmithing with the Baghdad copper souk producing some of the finest copper artifacts in the world. However it and several other traditional crafts are in decline due to cheaper imported goods.

Souk al-Safafeer (Coppersmiths' Market). One of the oldest markets in Baghdad, where coppersmiths have been hammering out trays, pots, and decorative items for centuries. The rhythmic sound of metalwork is audible from several streets away. A fascinating place to watch traditional craftsmen at work and pick up handmade souvenirs.

Eat

Restaurants and cafés have been notorious targets for suicide bombers in the past, making eating out a quite dangerous activity.

Saj Alreef Restaurant. Older but popular Baghdad restaurant featuring local as well as Western and Chinese cuisine. Comfortable interior.

Barley Restaurant. This eatery has a kind of macabre distinction of naming their large shawarma things after landmines.

Samad Restaurant. Lots of kebabs and other meat here. Buffet.

Jadiriyah Floating Restaurant. Not many places where you can eat aboard a ship in the Tigris River. Pricey and a good place to take the honey probably for a memorable buffet or masgouf and some bad Iraqi music.

Oyoon Baghdad Restaurant. Rather expensive, but suited to impress an audience or spoil oneself with its views over the Tigris River and elements of Iraqi culture in its decor and food. Featuring kebabs and biryani, western food, and ice cream. Also has hookah and a gallery of cultural relics to admire.

La Vinto. Posh, and expensive, steakhouse with a large variety of meat.

Drink

While Baghdad is undergoing something of a liberalization regarding both night life and alcohol, it is still not widely available and large parts of society frowns upon it. While some bars exists, particularly along Abu Nawas Street, a safe bet is always the bars of the top tier hotels. Many international organisations have their own bars as well, and some are open to outsiders.

Tea houses and cafés are however ubiquitous, and often open late into the night.

Shahbandar Café. The oldest operating tea house in Baghdad, established in 1907. A hub to discuss matters of the day over a cup of tea.

Sleep

Most organizations arrange their own accommodation. Sleeping in hotels in the proper city is always a risk due to bombings.

Baghdad International Airport Hotel. On secure grounds at the airport and often used by people visiting on business.

Coral Baghdad Hotel. An upstart hotel that has quickly become one of the most popular higher-end hotels in Baghdad.

Cristal Grand Ishtar Hotel. A hotel in central Baghdad.

Qaser Al-Masbah Hotel. Luxury hotel, restaurant on site. Free Wi-Fi.